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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?
  2. Hi Brett. This maybe completely irrelevant but as you're struggling I thought I'd mention it. Is the voltmeter charge showing as low on the gauge when at the start of your journey? I say this because there is a second wire that should be attached to the alternator to 'excite it' into charging fully from the off. Mine had come off and the alternator wasn't charging enough until I revved beyond 3k revs or so and these extra revs then it kicked into action and it charged normally. I though it was temperature related as well but it was because I don't rev it hard from cold so it only solved itself when I revved higher after it had warmed up. Could this be some kind of low power problem (or surge)? Seems strange that your car runs worse with the correctly gapped plugs so could be related. Maybe it's lacking the juice to jump a spark .9mm across the plugs and it helps it at .7mm. Cheers, Steve.
  3. Many thanks for that explanation Dave. Learning lots from this and your other bodywork post which also looked terrific. Cheers, Steve.
  4. Hi Dave, the car is looking fantastic. I've been speaking to some people about a complete respray for my dry sump and they've suggested once sanded back to either gel coat or a well keyed secure surface an epoxy primer will be used to seal and then filler primer for flatting back before base coat. You seem to go filler primer (Upol reface?) on the sanded surface and fully flat then primer. I presume it's ok to use either method and both would achieve similar results? Many thanks, Steve.
  5. 6 months later and realised I neglected to update ths thread. The oil analysis showing no coolant in oil was great news, I put the car back to standard .40 idle jets and got the car running really nicely. I've done over 1000 miles between MOT's which is way more than I normally do and really enjoyed using the car a lot late summer/autumn. I'm now forcibly off work again (Covid) so thought I'd get a task done that's been niggling me. I should have put a new gearbox input shaft in the car when I had it all apart a couple of years ago but didn't and my one was a bit worn on the splines. Not bad but not great either. So I've ordered a new one and have started getting ready for gearbox off. One of the items that has to come off is the turbo oil drain pipe and on the dry sump that means all the engine oil will exit the engine! No problem, new oil and filter won't hurt as it's been about 700 miles. I have found though that the oil looks a lot older than the 6 months and 700 miles it actually is. It looks mid brown colour like cold coffee and still has a hint of fuel smell which surprised me with standard idle jets and the idle screws set to a fairly standard 3 full turns out. Need to check @Lotusfabsuggestion again about the needle valves seating correctly as I really want the oil to stay in a healthier state for a relatively short time/ mileage. Will post back...
  6. That looks like it. Here's the link from Ebay UK.
  7. I've now replaced the foam in both seats and it's made a huge difference to the feel of the interior. The drivers seat foam had broken and the metal frame was protruding through and now I know why I always felt I was sitting in a hole where the seat foam had dropped and sagged. The drivers seat came out so well that I simply had to do the passenger seat also as that was then made to look tatty! Obviously the temptation to do the rest of the interior was too great whilst both seats were out so off came the door cards, tunnel sides and rear bulkhead panel. All of which received new foam and a damn good clean. A very worthwhile task if anyone's thinking about doing it! Ps the blue high density 'firm' foam on ebay is a perfect match in firmness to the rest of the seat.
  8. Hi Andy, Thanks for that and that's exactly the plan. Covers off, cut out any bad foam and find the right density foam to replace/ repair and reshape. There's loads of vids on YouTube on this and looks quite a fun task. My passenger seat bolsters are in really good shape so I can use those as a guide for the worn drivers seat foam.
  9. Many thanks for your replies Carbuff and Paul. Good to hear it's not too difficult to get the cover off which I'll do and see what the situation is with the foam and see if I can do or talk to an upholsterer.
  10. Has anyone replaced the foam in their seats? The actual material of the cloth interior of my dry sump is in really good condition but the foam has degraded inside the bottom section of the drivers seat in particular. I haven't got round to even looking at how the covers come off yet but if anyone has any info it would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
  11. Nice pictures @Tocus the silver one looks quite different now with correct coloured bumpers, mirrors and decals.
  12. Lotusbits advertise dry sump wheel studs on Ebay. Not sure if they're the same but they may be worth contacting.
  13. It's possible Fabian. The needle valves were replaced about 18 months ago and look OK with no obvious groove where they seat. They move freely on the float pivot as well. Once back together I'll switch the fuel pump on and check inside the main barrels of the carbs for any drips with the plenum off.
  14. I've seen this link posted quite a few times and thought it was commonly done...
  15. Float heights: how does everyone set these? Simply set to 14.5 - 15mm measuring between float and gasket held vertically as per the manual or then go on to use the sideways technology method of measuring 27mm from top of fuel stack to fuel level in the bowls?
  16. The oil analysis came back as fuel contaminated rather than coolant so that's good news. The oil has a dilution of 4.36% with an acceptable limit of 4% so a fraction over but with 0 miles all should be fine internally especially as the oil pressure was just lower than I'm used to seeing rather than none at all. I believe it was the many times over starting and driving 30 yards to test my handbrake adjustments that have caused this along with some fueling issues. I've always used .45 idle jets so I'm going revert to either standard .40 or .42 and see how it runs. Looking forward to using Dave's @LOTUSMAN33 test rig for pump jet calibration and see if these are supplying excessive fuel. I've changed the oil once already but even this new oil has turned black straight away so I'm going to change it again once the fueling is sorted. One problem with the dry sump is that you have to run the car for the oil tank to fill before this oil can then be drained from the tank and this seems to leave a fair bit of oil unchanged. I'm thinking of disconnecting the main oil return pipe to the engine from the tank so I don't have to start the car and this will hopefully remove more oil. Has anyone tried this before on a dry sump?
  17. Thank you Dave. I have a normal plastic fuel container. If you think yours will be easier to use with the valve fitted and you wouldn't mind sending it that would be great.
  18. Brilliant, many thanks Dave will do now. I have a Carbtune 👍
  19. I think you're right Andy. I've just topped up the carbs with fuel and left off the car on clean cardboard and no leaks. So I think I'm looking at fuel delivery quantity and/or pump jet operation. When this all started I was adjusting the handbrake which needed a lot of 20 yard journeys up my steep driveway to test and maybe starting the car so many for tiny journeys had an effect. @Lotusfab do you still have @LOTUSMAN33 pump jet test set up and would it be OK for me to borrow Dave if so? Thanks for the figures C43.
  20. Cheers Fab. I tested the fuel pressure a few days ago and was actually slightly low at 3.5psi so I upped to 4psi just to make it on spec. Agreed re prefer fuel contamination to coolant!
  21. Thanks for the replies. I'm making progress (I think). I'm 99% certain the oil is fuel contaminated. I've sent a sample off to confirm. Coolant pressure test holds steady at 11psi along with previous negative combustion test. I've also put fuel and coolant separately into a new oil samples and the colour and smell of the oil from the car matches the fuel sample. Taking the top off the carbs the fuel in the bowl is low after the car has been standing. I belive it's draining when the car is not running and I've since discovered a number of threads called 'Dellorto drip' which I'm still researching. As a test last night I manually topped both bowls up with fuel and checked the level this morning. The front carb level had reduced by 8mm and the rear 5mm. The tops had been put back on the prevent evaporation. This can't be right can it?? I've now removed the carbs and there is fuel evidence in the intake, in the plenum and on the block. Can this be draining whilst sitting overnight? Any thoughts appreciated.
  22. Many thanks Andy, great idea. I've ordered a test kit. I'll not rush into taking the engine apart and this test along with a hot compression test and finding out why the oil is thin should give me some info to go on.
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