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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. Thanks all. The conflicting views shows that there's normally more than one way to tackle these cars. It is leaking a lot so does need doing before the next C service. It's reassuring to know separating the box with the engine in situ has not only been done but recommended as the easier method by people who have done it. I would prefer to go this route I think and see how it goes. I'll enjoy the remainder of autumn with the car running then start planning the job, starting by going through your comprehensive reply Dan. Much appreciated. Cheers, Steve.
  2. How does an interior get that bad! Could be really nice but would cost a fair bit with a lot of work and will always be held back from the lack of any history to date.
  3. Thanks and yes John, it wasn't easy for the photos. I managed to get my phone to focus with my nose! I thought it would be that seal, a weak point I understand. The cambelt was only done in June otherwise as you say it would be a good opportunity to do it with the engine out. Has anyone removed the gearbox with the engine in situ? It seems like the slightly less daunting option than taking the engine and gearbox out complete. Would appreciate pro's and cons of either method. Thanks, Steve.
  4. I've attached a pic of an oil leak I have. Just trying to confirm the cause. The photo is taken up through the slot in the gearbox housing and you can see oil on the bolt and the join above it is wet with oil. The other pic is the oil starting to form a drip after just a few minutes of cleaning off. Thanks in advance. Steve.
  5. As you have a private number plate Buddsy, there is very little left to tell the year and even then how many people know the change over in 1985? The small triangle by the mirrors and maybe one or two other small bits but not much. I like originality too but as I bought my pearlescent white '85 turbo with black bumpers they are staying that way as I personally prefer them to body coloured. I'm having the same problem with the graphics though! Mine are the smaller original '85 and no nose graphic but I really like the earlier, larger style. Original or replace to preference but non original? Thinking about it, I dont think I've ever seen a pre '85 turbo in Pearl white so maybe that will give my car away as being non original with early graphics?
  6. Thanks Andy. Just wanted to make sure about the vac advance. I have the figures so will have a tweak and get to the right amount of advance at higher revs. So much more enjoyable to drive now the timings closer to where it should be.
  7. Made some ready good progress with this and it was the ignition timing. Many thanks to those who assisted with this. Idle was found to be 5' after tdc so 17' out and advanced to around 15' btdc. I've adjusted and went a bit too far advanced before I ran out of time but the car drives SO much better with no hesitation at all so I'll tweak it back to where it needs to be. Can anyone confirm there is no vacuum advance on an early '85 TE? Thanks.
  8. Thanks Steve. I've ordered .45's now but atleast I'll be able to see if they make a difference and go from there. If they do work, I'll probably re balance carbs with manometer anyway. Do you find co2 is fine as part of effective carb balancing or complete the job and then if co2 is too high for mot tweak the idle screw 1 full turn after balancing is completed?
  9. Thanks gents for your input. So the .45 idle jets are fine to completetly replace the .40 permanently? Can't hurt to try at such a low cost. I have a timing strobe at the ready and just ordered a 4 tube manometer, so one way or another I'm hoping to solve it before the summer's over!
  10. Will be in touch soon Dunc to pop down and see you as discussed in intro section a couple of months ago. Not had much time as been away and doing few bits to car since then.
  11. Don't think so. Black bumpers so probably before '85 (although could have been changed) and I'm pretty sure I saw in my rear view mirror it was a Y reg.
  12. 7.10pm Sunday 4th September at bottom of Marlpit Lane. Would be good to have another S3 local unless just passing through...
  13. OK thanks, timings next on the list then. Any other thoughts please let me know and I'll report back whether this solves it. Not selling Barry but thanks for the offer!
  14. It gets worse with choke and the car doesn't need any choke to start either even when cold. Accelerator pumps are not seized. The plugs removed were quite black and smelt a bit of fuel and the plenum to turbo also smelt of fuel when removed to assist in changing dizzy cap so I'm tending to lean toward carbs next also. Is it possible cam/ ignition timing can cause this?
  15. When I purchased my '85 TE a few months back it had a hesitation at low revs. The kind that when youre approaching a junction in 2nd gear, see the road is clear and accelerate, it stumbles and pops until the revs get to around 2500 then it's off like a rocket and runs great. Pull away gently in 1st gear same thing, give it some revs and pull away like a boy racer and it'll be fine but don't really want to be doing this all the time. It starts up, ticks over, and accelerates above 2500rpm perfectly. Things I've tried to cure so far: new spark plugs and correct gap, new ht leads, new rotor arm and dizzy cap, new air filter. Also checked idle jets in carbs and all clear. As it accelerates well to higher revs I don't think it will be fuel shortage so am looking next at slightly less simple stuff than already done like timing, carb balance / float levels. What would you guys do first out of the two and any other suggestions that I could check? Thanks.
  16. I only had a cursory look but I'm 99% you can add a total paint job into the mix as well.
  17. Completely agree. It is a project car but being made to look like it needs tidying only. I roughly estimated 10k to do if mainly diy and with the initial purchase cost you can just wait and buy a good one for similar money. Well at that time you could anyway which is what I did.
  18. What do you feel the right money would be based on the description above?
  19. I had a look at this car in December. It has been sat uncovered on a driveway for over 5 years with a carb problem at the start although the issues would have multiplied over time. It was covered in mould inside and paint blistering outside. To say it's in good running order is some statement. It was bought last week, cleaned and is obviously now being flipped. This will need a lot of work and I can't believe they'll get anywhere near the asking price. If they do then great as mine will be worth double.
  20. This is now solved To confirm the landrover 2a slave and 90-110 master cylinders are a perfect match as long as you reuse the existing pushrods. You will however need a couple of adapters which I got from my local car accessory shop if you are completing the overhaul with an sj braided hose. I believe my problem was that I had bled the system without the plunger in the slave being fully extended. From the two methods on LEW I would go with letting the slave hang loose to assist bleeding and ensure visibly the plunger is fully extended.
  21. There was no wrestling with this as the slave cylinder and pushrod came off very easily so wouldn't have thought I would have disturbed anything in the gearbox. Will keep this as a last resort though as I don't really want to separate the gearbox. Maybe the clutch fork has dislodged off the pivot ball joint and is not now using it as a fulcrum. Thinking about it I'm pretty certain the hydraulics are OK and the threaded section where the pushrod enters is still set at 22mm and everything was carefully measured before and after at the pedal end and is fine. There are two other threads on here over the years with the same problem but the solution wasn't noted
  22. Hi all, Just getting some home maintenance done on my ' 85 turbo esprit and todays topic was the clutch hydraulics as the gearchange has been getting worse and I know the car has suffered from moisture in the clutch fluid from the previous owner. One thing led to another and after noticing dampness under the master cylinder (and peeling paint!) and a very rusty slave I thought I'd get everything done in one go. Went the landrover route for new master and slave and reused the original pushrods after a good cleanup and also installed an sj braided hose to get rid of the red plastic one. Everything went in perfectly but when doing the final fluid fill and bleed I came across a problem. After tightening the bleed nipple on the slave after bleeding the first push of the clutch pedal was fine but the second push was rock hard. It seems the pedal is returning but the clutch is not. I can physically move the clutch fork back with my hand which gives me one more push of the pedal but then same again, rock hard pedal and the clutch fork does not return to its original position. I've seen in the parts list there is a return spring in the earlier models but not for an '85. Can anyone tell me what returns the release fork back to its original position? Any other views most welcome also ☺
  23. Lovely! Has the car had minimal use or had an interior retrim?
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