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Steve4012

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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/1048-setting-dhla-dellorto-dellorto-float-fuel-level/ I've seen this link posted quite a few times and thought it was commonly done...
  2. Float heights: how does everyone set these? Simply set to 14.5 - 15mm measuring between float and gasket held vertically as per the manual or then go on to use the sideways technology method of measuring 27mm from top of fuel stack to fuel level in the bowls?
  3. The oil analysis came back as fuel contaminated rather than coolant so that's good news. The oil has a dilution of 4.36% with an acceptable limit of 4% so a fraction over but with 0 miles all should be fine internally especially as the oil pressure was just lower than I'm used to seeing rather than none at all. I believe it was the many times over starting and driving 30 yards to test my handbrake adjustments that have caused this along with some fueling issues. I've always used .45 idle jets so I'm going revert to either standard .40 or .42 and see how it runs. Looking forward to using Dave's @LOTUSMAN33 test rig for pump jet calibration and see if these are supplying excessive fuel. I've changed the oil once already but even this new oil has turned black straight away so I'm going to change it again once the fueling is sorted. One problem with the dry sump is that you have to run the car for the oil tank to fill before this oil can then be drained from the tank and this seems to leave a fair bit of oil unchanged. I'm thinking of disconnecting the main oil return pipe to the engine from the tank so I don't have to start the car and this will hopefully remove more oil. Has anyone tried this before on a dry sump?
  4. Thank you Dave. I have a normal plastic fuel container. If you think yours will be easier to use with the valve fitted and you wouldn't mind sending it that would be great.
  5. Brilliant, many thanks Dave will do now. I have a Carbtune ๐Ÿ‘
  6. I think you're right Andy. I've just topped up the carbs with fuel and left off the car on clean cardboard and no leaks. So I think I'm looking at fuel delivery quantity and/or pump jet operation. When this all started I was adjusting the handbrake which needed a lot of 20 yard journeys up my steep driveway to test and maybe starting the car so many for tiny journeys had an effect. @Lotusfab do you still have @LOTUSMAN33 pump jet test set up and would it be OK for me to borrow Dave if so? Thanks for the figures C43.
  7. Cheers Fab. I tested the fuel pressure a few days ago and was actually slightly low at 3.5psi so I upped to 4psi just to make it on spec. Agreed re prefer fuel contamination to coolant!
  8. Thanks for the replies. I'm making progress (I think). I'm 99% certain the oil is fuel contaminated. I've sent a sample off to confirm. Coolant pressure test holds steady at 11psi along with previous negative combustion test. I've also put fuel and coolant separately into a new oil samples and the colour and smell of the oil from the car matches the fuel sample. Taking the top off the carbs the fuel in the bowl is low after the car has been standing. I belive it's draining when the car is not running and I've since discovered a number of threads called 'Dellorto drip' which I'm still researching. As a test last night I manually topped both bowls up with fuel and checked the level this morning. The front carb level had reduced by 8mm and the rear 5mm. The tops had been put back on the prevent evaporation. This can't be right can it?? I've now removed the carbs and there is fuel evidence in the intake, in the plenum and on the block. Can this be draining whilst sitting overnight? Any thoughts appreciated.
  9. Many thanks Andy, great idea. I've ordered a test kit. I'll not rush into taking the engine apart and this test along with a hot compression test and finding out why the oil is thin should give me some info to go on.
  10. Hi Jon. I had the radiator out 2 years ago and it was quite new with no debris in the fins and I flushed through also so pretty confident on that. There is no mayonnaise on the oil tank cap. Yes as mentioned above I have done a leak test (twice) and both were negative.
  11. Nope no thrashing Dave! ๐Ÿ˜† I've been losing a little coolant but I did have a leak in a coolant pipe which I replaced along with the thermostat so it's difficult to tell if it being lost there or not. The car drives faultlessly, no hesitation or misfires of any kind anywhere in the rev range. I'll do the oil which will hopefully bring the oil pressure back up and run to temp and retest and go from there. Cheers, Steve.
  12. Cheers Dave. If it needs a refresh that's ok and I'll get it done. I'm just mindful I don't want to start dismantling when the problem still maybe elsewhere. I'm tempted to simply renew the oil so I can then run up to temp and redo the compression test. Also try and find out what's in the oil to make its viscosity lower, be it coolant, fuel or whatever else may have happened to it.
  13. Hi Dave, The car has done 117k miles but the engine is a bit of an unknown quantity. It's had the main bearing panel mod as I saw this when I had the crank out to repair the spigot bearing/ input shaft issue. I replaced the main bearings and big end shells at that time (the originals were still pretty good) but the top end I don't know about. I'm not sure how much the readings would increase with a hot engine.
  14. Just done a compression test. Car was cold, throttle fully open: Cylinders 1-4 113,115,111,109 psi
  15. I've been having some running temperature issues with my dry sump the last couple of months. Under normal driving it was fine but as soon as I gave it some boost the temperature would climb to somewhere between 90 and the next line on the gauge and not come back down for the rest of the journey whether flowing traffic or not. I changed the thermostat and found a small leak also but it still persisted. This morning upon start up I noticed the oil pressure was low. You can't just look at the dipstick on a dry sump to check, it needs to be run then checked and not wanting to do this I topped the oil up a little and started the car. Oil pressure was still low and looking into the oil tank the level was high but the oil was also very frothy and of a thin consistency. I believe I'm losing coolant into the oil. I've drained the oil and it seems very thin. I've boiled the oil in a pan and it sizzles and crackles more than new oil so I presume that confirms coolant is present so I think it's looking like head gasket failure. Ps a combustion check with the blue liquid does not indicate this but it's probably possible to get coolant into oil, without gasses into coolant(?) Anyway if anyone has any words of wisdom I'm all ears, is it a case of taking the head off and inspecting the head gasket and if so leave the engine in or remove from car? Thanks in advance, Steve.
  16. I have Falken Ziex ZE310 front and rear, 195/60/15 & 225/60/15. Seem fine and reasonably priced.
  17. If the gearbox end of the input shaft is that worn, is it also likely there's damage inside the gearbox as well?
  18. That diagram states my87 onwards. Isn't this an '86 turbo?
  19. Is there a vacuum pump on an 86 turbo? From your first post, yes the fuel pump is close to the n/s fuel tank under the car and this buzzes constantly when ignition is on. This is normally drowned out by engine noise when idling but easy to jack car up and have a listen.
  20. I thought I'd round this problem off now I'm confident I have it solved after quite a few hundred miles. It turned out to be three issues. Firstly the pressure plate and bearing weren't correctly sized, as most of the replies suggested. Steve at SJ finally acknowledged this, not verbally, simply by exchanging the clutch pressure plate and bearing for the newer versions and refunding the 2nd bearing I'd bought after the first one was broken when the clutch seized. Mistakes happen and it ended being resolved ok so I have no problem with Steve. The second issue was the clutch slave cylinder. Although only a couple of years old there was a weep inside the rubber cap which was impossible to see. This released a small amount of pressure and allowed the clutch fork to just hang there. Sometimes when the clutch was pressed the fork would realign itself and centre the bearing, sometimes it wouldn't resulting in an off centre contact to the pressure plate and clutch judder. Match this issue with the wrong size bearing outer and spline inner and disaster! The third issue, a small one, was the squeak. Because there was so much lateral play on the fork and bearing, the last time I re-installed the gearbox I was paranoid about having put too much grease and causing sliding of fork to bearing so I skimped on the grease. Obviously too much and the lack of lube caused a squeak between clutch fork and release bearing collar. Thankfully this was resolved by managing to get a few drops of thick oil down a tube inserted into the clutch fork hole into the right area and the squeak was gone. Thanks to all that gave input on this thread, it's much appreciated and with these strange times the car is currently my daily driver!
  21. I've had this on my '85 turbo as well. It was a squeaking at idle and with a tiny bit of pressure on the clutch pedal it stopped, release the pressure and it returned. It was a squeak between the clutch fork and release bearing collar. I managed to get a few drops of thick oil though a tube inserted through the clutch fork hole into the right area and it was gone. I could make it happen simply by moving the clutch fork with my hand and the squeak was there with the engine off.
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