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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. Not sure but with the new clutch problems I've had I wouldn't rely on anything from my car in that respect! ☺
  2. Can you not just remove the gearbox mounts by the two small hex head bolts, insert bolt and replace?
  3. There's a good chance the Nylatron washer will fall off when you retract the gearbox and if you're only pulling out enough to insert the dowel you won't know if it still on or not. When I removed mine it fell between the flywheel and friction plate.
  4. Is that definitely the right way round for the fork clips Fabian? I thought the ends might locate into the cut out on the bearing collar. Maybe doesn't make any difference though...
  5. This is my '85 turbo. It has Ac if that makes a difference? Not the best angle I'm afraid.
  6. Hi Tim. 18mm was the amount of movement on the pushrod. I have the correct 22mm of thread showing from the lock nut.
  7. It's clearly marked gearbox side and was correct. Yes fitted properly and greased splines and a small coating on bearing surface too. All packaged up and will be sent back to SJ and see what Steve comes back with. 7.3mm larger spline diameter between old and new with both off the car in a relaxed state seems a big difference.
  8. Good point. Not sure about the measurements when they're both bolted on but now I've removed the new pressure plate it measures 56.3mm at rest. The old one was also measured off the car at rest and was 49mm so the gap between the two has increased to 7.3mm larger diameter hole. I've spoken to Steve at SJ again. He still suggesting there's a gearbox issue but as the car was perfectly fine prior to this he's asked for it to be sent back. There's play in the bearing collar into gearbox but not dramatic and is expected and I think combined with a now very small tolerance from splines to bearing face it fails.
  9. Reply from Steve at SJ: 'That’s interesting but I really do not think it is the problem. I have sold loads of the covers. I think there is something causing the bearing to be off line'. I would appreciate your views...
  10. Could you measure od of the bearing and the gap between the splines and let me know please Fabian?
  11. That's right, straight fingers, round bearing and vise versa. I'm OK on that front. Thanks.
  12. Thanks all for your input, it is much appreciated. The gearbox is back off and I hopefully have an answer. Both bearings measure the same at 58mm OD. The gap between the splines is indeed smaller on my original pressure plate. 49mm as opposed to 52.7 on the new one. So I have an overhang of 4.5mm either side on the old set up and only 2.65mm on the new so barely on the outer edge of the bearing. I'll email Steve at SJ the pics below and see what he says.
  13. Ok thanks, I'll crack on with removal then if it's viewable from inside clutch housing.
  14. Many thanks. Is the release bearing tube and housing tube viewable by removing the top cover plate?
  15. Just spoken to Steve at SJ. He said he's never seen that before. Very unlikely the splines are too short but measure to make sure. I've compared the first broken bearing to the original bearing and they match in size so don't think that's the issue. He thought there was more likely a gearbox problem as the bearing tube should centre the bearing to the release plate. Does anyone know how the shaft of the release bearing locates/ centres in the gearbox? @Lotusfab is in gearbox mode?! There appears no option now but get the 🤬🤬🤬 gearbox back off!
  16. No, new spigot bearing and Nylatron washer fitted and verified there second time round also.
  17. I'll try and keep this brief. Recent engine out service on my '85 turbo included a new 3 piece clutch kit from SJ. After literally about 300 metres of up and down road to test I had a massive judder through clutch pedal. Gearbox back off and found clutch release bearing was somehow moving off centre to pressure plate hence the massive juddering by uneven pressure. This actually broke my new release bearing (see pic) and there was witness marks on the bearing where the clutch fork arm slipped across the bearing collar. Looked at pivot ball/ clutch fork and found a lot of play. Made a new larger split pin up to reduce this and got it pivoting with less play but it seemed to pivot off centre so that's no good. Phoned Steve at SJ who said there should be loads of play and in his words the fork should be 'floppy' so the bearing can centre itself. Ok new bearing bought, another clutch fork bought even though the original looked fine. Also looked a lot at the pedal end. Clutch always bit high with old and new clutch and the pedal was set as low as the thread on pedal would allow so I measured the throw of the slave pushrod and it was 27mm. I thought this was way too high so loads of gymnastics later got the pushrod throw down to 18mm at the slave (Steve said this should be 3/4"). It felt good and I believed I had found the problem, too much extension pushing the fork and bearing apart. Gearbox back on, correct grease in all the right places etc start car clutch jams 🤬🤬🤬🤬. Removed dust cover off fork and look inside and can't believe what I saw. Pressure plate splines are uneven, some on release bearing and some slipped off and literally jammed the clutch in place (see pic with red dots where splines are off bearing). It's the correct combination of flat splines and round bearing so not that. The fork is also off centre. I'm stumped and a bit 🤬 off! Is Steve right, should there be a lot of play? The ball on the pivot is good and the fork is definitely fine also. New clips from fork to bearing. Any opinions welcome!
  18. It's inside the n/s A pillar trim on my '81 dry sump.
  19. From a guy with 2 daughters, I'm truly sorry to hear of your loss.
  20. I have everything in place on the engine. Right hand squezes under carbs and holds distributor cap, left hand loosens distributor clamp with long screwdriver or a flexible extension on a socket from between the carbs from the top. Before you loosen bracket push cap towards distributor so distributor doesn't spring out. Adjust distributor rotation and retighten clamp all whilst pushing distributor cap. I always adjust with engine off. Retest and repeat if necessary. It is very doable with the engine and ancillary's all in place.
  21. Hi Andy, I've now done exactly that and ordered one from SJ and will return the Sytec. I was concerned I hadn't actually found the problem causing the failure of the pumps but I've now exhausted all possibilities. The voltage supply is correct, the bad pumps made it look faulty. The fuel system is spotless and I've been out before work this morning to verify the fuel return is clear which it is. I'll put the sj pump on, check the fuel pressure and if that pump fails I'm screwed! 🙂
  22. Good call, thanks. Another pump is on its way and the first thing I'll do is check the fuel pressure at the fpr. Many thanks for all the input.
  23. The first two failures were the original pump to this car and the one off my dry sump which I replaced during its mechanical restoration with a Sytec the same as I've just bought again for this car. The Sytec pump on my dry sump has been fine so far (about 500 miles). Both the original pumps off both cars were bosch 0580464014. The ad states that the Sytec pump is a direct replacement for that Bosch unit.
  24. Update 2: New pump tested in same way. No fuel output and pump terminals read 13.9v! Confirmed charger output is exactly 12v.🤨
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