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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. SJ supplied me an oil pump belt this summer which fitted perfectly, although I have read somewhere there are a few different sizes and maybe I just got lucky.
  2. Hope these help Fabian. Excuse the cobwebs, it's been residing in the shed! There are no id markings on the wheels at all. Steve.
  3. I don't think you'll get a definite solution to this and you'll need to have a fiddle. I had a similar problem with mine and it was a broken earth spade terminal under the relay blocks. Maybe swap the bulbs over first to eliminate that. I'd then look at the relays by ns headlight. Can't remember which one does what but look in the service notes and you could swap a relay over that operates the dip headlights to check that also. All 4 relays are the same type so interchangeable. Then it's checking earth's and wiring.
  4. Here you go. N/s (UK) engine mount. The corrugated piece is in addition to the original shields.
  5. Car looks great, many congratulations. The bellhousing is the same as my dry sump. If you need any pics I have lots during my restoration. Just let me know. Steve.
  6. As Jon says, engine off, hand brake off, Jack up a rear wheel so off the ground and manually turn the wheel with your hands in 4th gear. This will rotate the engine without having to start it. Spark plugs out makes the engine easier to turn this way also.
  7. That's really helpful, thanks for all your replies. I'll start with the tensioner/ snubber area and check on any tweaks with a chalk mark across the belt to indicate whether I've been successful or not.
  8. Hi Sparky. Tensioner was rebuilt with a new bearing also so should be fine.
  9. Hi Gotti. Would these have an influence on the gap between snubber and belt? I'll have to try and get in there and measure the gap. Apart from the snubbers I can't see what else could rub the belt.
  10. Hi all. I've noticed a mark on my new cambelt that looks like it is rubbing against something on the inner edge toward engine (see pics). I've checked the clearance of the upper snubber on inlet cam pulley and it's fine. I know there is another snubber on the tensioner but can't remember if this was adjustable or not... I didn't think it was. Can someone advise please, it's the one circled. Many thanks, Steve.
  11. I would be interested for clarification with this too @top-plumber @Mark Wainwright Can it be done as a straight swap, what adaption to handbrake cable, which model year Passat... Would appreciate the info. and any other relevant points. Cheers, Steve.
  12. The top wire is the earth, it just screws into the hole on a ring terminal. I also had problems with the connection on one of mine. I made a workaround by putting a new large ring terminal on the earth wire and securing it between the temp sender body and the ally pipe. You'll need to find a suitable size ring terminal to go over the end of the bit of the temp sender that sits inside the ally pipe.This worked fine for me and will cost you pennies. You may need to catch a small amount of coolant when you remove the sender though. To try, just temporarily clamp the earth wire to the hexagonal part of the body of the sender and see if the gauge works.
  13. Hi Tim. My 81 dry sump sounds the same as yours. No clock and an amp behind passenger kick panel. Mine has its original Panasonic stereo so it seems some dry sumps came with our spec and no clock.
  14. The dry sump on ebay has spare front wheels, may be worth a try to see if he has what you need Fabian?
  15. No that's definitely the temp sender Paul, the otter switch is in front of the front offside wheel (UK) near the top of the radiator.
  16. It's in the large aluminium hooped pipe near the rear window. Two wires and check the earth wire in particular.
  17. In the manual it says 1980-early 83 for Lumenition, but you're right Tim, it seems mine should have this but definitely has ab14. Must have been altered at some point but it's all hidden anyway so no big deal if it's more effective. Pic of my current set up.
  18. Thanks for your replies gents. After spending the last 12 months mechanically restoring my dry sump strictly to original spec, I just fancy going a different route with the powerspark distributor and new matching coil from ebay seller simonbbc who seems to have a good reputation. I like the idea of brand new distributor and coil and eliminating the need for the ab14 amplifier so making things simpler whilst still looking original. @910EspritSteve, I asked about the advance curve, he said it's inline with what's required for today's fuels. We'll soon find out, for £90 all in I'm happy to give it a go and see. Will report back and would still be interested if any others have gone this route, I can't be the only one?! @JerrySnot sure what number Jerry, removed distributor today but it's all locked up now, will let you know.
  19. Ok so I need a high energy version of the 43d so not the one in the link. Would be interested if others have used either the Powerspark or Accuspark for a Turbo Esprit.
  20. Hi all, I think I've found the cause of poor and inconsistent running with the distributor being the culprit and could do with some advice for repair/ replacement. Using a timing light cylinder 3 spark was intermittent. After removing the distributor cap there was an obvious groove in the cylinder 3 contact in the cap where the rotor arm has worn it down even though the cap and rotor arm were brand new and only used to tune car. Further inspection and there seems to be too much play in the shaft where to rotor arm connects. The question is are the Powerspark 43d distributors on Ebay suitable? (link below) The wiring seems different in the ad as I have the two wires coming from the coil box but it may be a generic photo.. Thanks in advance, Steve.
  21. Looks like the one for sale about 6 months ago? I think the new owner made an intro on here.
  22. I've just done the rear brakes on my 81 turbo and there's a ridge on the back of the pad that needs to sit in a groove of the piston. If yours is the same, maybe this isn't located correctly.
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