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Steve4012

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Everything posted by Steve4012

  1. To confirm the 8 sided chrome nut in Paul's post above from SJ is correct for an '81 turbo. I may have taken a chance with one off Ebay but decided to freshen up the whole area with new screen tape and wiper blade from SJ and with a repainted wiper arm it all looks nice and refreshed now. Thanks for the input gents.
  2. Andy/ Paul That's really helpful, many thanks both and I'll post back the solution.
  3. I already have the splined cap released. It's the nut as described above that's the problem. I found an old thread by @Paul Coleman who had the same issue. Paul, any chance you still have the replacement nut details?
  4. Hi all, I'm looking to repaint the black section of the front scuttle at the bottom of the windscreen on my '81 turbo. Trying to remove the wiper the securing nut is sized solid. It's the large 21mm (ish) nut. Anyone know the dimensions of this please before I grind it off as the parts diagram is non specific and struggling to find on SJ Sportscars site. Many thanks, Steve.
  5. Great well done. I did exactly the same with my fuel tanks. Perfectly sound so cleaned, painted and reinstalled with closed cell foam rather than the original sponge. The oil tank was grimy underneath too, obviously par for the course. Nice and satisfying once it's clean and tidy though.
  6. Thanks, yes it's silver Phil. I'm just reinstalling engine and gearbox after being rebuilt by Mike at Lotusbits. While that was happening it's had new paint so looking forward to having it all finished off and back on the road. I did the oil tank/ fuel tanks a few years ago and remember it being a pain to get in and out!
  7. Yes I did the same and kept it attached and withdrew with it on the tank. My pipe was quite badly gauged where it went through the body/ grommet so I bought a new one from sj. It's only a short length and was only £40ish if I remember correctly. I replaced the damaged cable, welded the bracket and put some rubber neoprene sheet between the tank and wiring for extra protection.
  8. Hi Phil, Yes the 90' elbow in the rear wheel arch just unscrews. The internal air filter 'ear' that the trunking fixes to was only sealed with silicone on mine and was easy to remove with just the few screws found once the outer ear was removed. Not attached to the window in any way. I can't remember if the oil tank is removable without taking that out. You're right to check the cabling under the oil tank. The metal bracket supporting the rear of the oil tank had broken on mine and the tank dropped down and rubbed through an ignition feed wire to the inertia switch. Cheers, Steve.
  9. Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?
  10. Hi Brett. This maybe completely irrelevant but as you're struggling I thought I'd mention it. Is the voltmeter charge showing as low on the gauge when at the start of your journey? I say this because there is a second wire that should be attached to the alternator to 'excite it' into charging fully from the off. Mine had come off and the alternator wasn't charging enough until I revved beyond 3k revs or so and these extra revs then it kicked into action and it charged normally. I though it was temperature related as well but it was because I don't rev it hard from cold so it only solved itself when I revved higher after it had warmed up. Could this be some kind of low power problem (or surge)? Seems strange that your car runs worse with the correctly gapped plugs so could be related. Maybe it's lacking the juice to jump a spark .9mm across the plugs and it helps it at .7mm. Cheers, Steve.
  11. Many thanks for that explanation Dave. Learning lots from this and your other bodywork post which also looked terrific. Cheers, Steve.
  12. Hi Dave, the car is looking fantastic. I've been speaking to some people about a complete respray for my dry sump and they've suggested once sanded back to either gel coat or a well keyed secure surface an epoxy primer will be used to seal and then filler primer for flatting back before base coat. You seem to go filler primer (Upol reface?) on the sanded surface and fully flat then primer. I presume it's ok to use either method and both would achieve similar results? Many thanks, Steve.
  13. 6 months later and realised I neglected to update ths thread. The oil analysis showing no coolant in oil was great news, I put the car back to standard .40 idle jets and got the car running really nicely. I've done over 1000 miles between MOT's which is way more than I normally do and really enjoyed using the car a lot late summer/autumn. I'm now forcibly off work again (Covid) so thought I'd get a task done that's been niggling me. I should have put a new gearbox input shaft in the car when I had it all apart a couple of years ago but didn't and my one was a bit worn on the splines. Not bad but not great either. So I've ordered a new one and have started getting ready for gearbox off. One of the items that has to come off is the turbo oil drain pipe and on the dry sump that means all the engine oil will exit the engine! No problem, new oil and filter won't hurt as it's been about 700 miles. I have found though that the oil looks a lot older than the 6 months and 700 miles it actually is. It looks mid brown colour like cold coffee and still has a hint of fuel smell which surprised me with standard idle jets and the idle screws set to a fairly standard 3 full turns out. Need to check @Lotusfabsuggestion again about the needle valves seating correctly as I really want the oil to stay in a healthier state for a relatively short time/ mileage. Will post back...
  14. That looks like it. Here's the link from Ebay UK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123858843505
  15. I've now replaced the foam in both seats and it's made a huge difference to the feel of the interior. The drivers seat foam had broken and the metal frame was protruding through and now I know why I always felt I was sitting in a hole where the seat foam had dropped and sagged. The drivers seat came out so well that I simply had to do the passenger seat also as that was then made to look tatty! Obviously the temptation to do the rest of the interior was too great whilst both seats were out so off came the door cards, tunnel sides and rear bulkhead panel. All of which received new foam and a damn good clean. A very worthwhile task if anyone's thinking about doing it! Ps the blue high density 'firm' foam on ebay is a perfect match in firmness to the rest of the seat.
  16. Hi Andy, Thanks for that and that's exactly the plan. Covers off, cut out any bad foam and find the right density foam to replace/ repair and reshape. There's loads of vids on YouTube on this and looks quite a fun task. My passenger seat bolsters are in really good shape so I can use those as a guide for the worn drivers seat foam.
  17. Many thanks for your replies Carbuff and Paul. Good to hear it's not too difficult to get the cover off which I'll do and see what the situation is with the foam and see if I can do or talk to an upholsterer.
  18. Has anyone replaced the foam in their seats? The actual material of the cloth interior of my dry sump is in really good condition but the foam has degraded inside the bottom section of the drivers seat in particular. I haven't got round to even looking at how the covers come off yet but if anyone has any info it would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
  19. Nice pictures @Tocus the silver one looks quite different now with correct coloured bumpers, mirrors and decals.
  20. Lotusbits advertise dry sump wheel studs on Ebay. Not sure if they're the same but they may be worth contacting.
  21. It's possible Fabian. The needle valves were replaced about 18 months ago and look OK with no obvious groove where they seat. They move freely on the float pivot as well. Once back together I'll switch the fuel pump on and check inside the main barrels of the carbs for any drips with the plenum off.
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