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mik

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  • Name
    mik
  • Car
    2014 Evora S SportsRacer, 2020 Audi E-Tron 55 Launch Edition
  • Location
    Glasgow

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  1. “Panel wipe” is the product G-Techniq instruct to use before you put the sealant on. It’s easy - de-greaser substance. Instructions for G5 are clear enough (although I always seem to need more cotton wool pads than they provide). From memory the product goes off after opening, so not much point trying to save any for later use (?)z
  2. There is likely to be some level of this. Wide wheels and double-wishbone suspension take up space. I was about to say the same thing as @exeterjeepthough - my Evora S has a bit of offset, but I don’t find it excessive at all (whereas when I drove a 993 my left foot went for the clutch and found the brake), and the show Emira seemed to have more space in the footwell.
  3. @BrussIs that easier? Genuine question. I was aware there is adjustment potential at the gearbox end, but assumed it would be trickier to access?
  4. Apologies if this is covered elsewhere - I couldn’t find anything. 🤔 Had my car 5+ years now (2014 Sports Racer S) and have always been pleased with the quality of the gearshift - only really conscious of it as I have read less glowing comments from other owners (particularly with early cars). Recently however - last month or so - I noticed the shift was ever so slightly less sweet, whether going up or down the box. Ever so slightly hesitant slotting in. Double declutching didn’t make any difference. I figured the cable may have stretched minutely, so thought I would take a look. Any change I made should be easily reversible so why not? Access You need to lift the panel holding the heating controls. If you don’t already have one of these small plastic interior trim tool sets - get one. Around a tenner for a range of different shapes that really make this stuff easier. The panel is held on by 5 spring clips. One at the handbrake end. One each side approximately in line with the temperature knob, and one each side close to the dashboard. These WILL drop into the space underneath when you lift the panel, but are easily recovered and ready for re-use. With these out, you can reach behind and unplug the electrical connectors for each dial and the buttons. Of course each is slightly different (sigh) but you find the tang you need to squeeze and they slide off. if you really want to you can remove the gear knob (one small allen grub-screw) and remove the gearshift gaitor at this point. I just left it on an rotated it to provide access. You will then want to remove the two tiny screws on the handbrake gaitor surround, lift it up at that end and slide it forward and also rotate it to give you room to swing a spanner - see below. Adjustment Now you can access the cable ends. I wasn’t concerned about side to side movement (the lower one) - only the fore & aft. The upper one. 10mm spanner removes the locknut on the left. This is really just excess weight as the shaft on the ball and socket is threaded so you need to unscrew it. 8mm open ended spanner - only 2 flats though so you want to push the lever forward into 3rd and try to get full 180degree turns - hence getting the handbrake gaitor out of the way. Don’t drop the washer. Before you screw it all the way out, 10mm spanner loosens the locknut on the adjustment mech (more excess weight!). I had planned to tighten this one full turn and see how it felt, but I was only able to rotate it clockwise about 80% of a full turn before it locked. The cable end clearly bottomed out in the socket. Damn, but let’s see how that feels. Put it all back together (don’t drop that washer) and - tangible difference! I only moved it a tiny amount, but I guess the cable could, only have stretched a tiny amount. Feels “bob on” 😎 (If I ever need to tweak it again I will screw the ball joint off of the cable end fully and use the Dremel to remove a few mm of the cable end so it doesn’t bottom out - there is loads of adjustment thread left to allow this).
  5. Had snap oversteer in 2nd exiting a wet roundabout with too much throttle only once - within 2 weeks of getting the car. If I am honest the ESP gathered it up for me. Never happened since and i think it was mainly due to worn rears. I find the car oversteers predictably in slower corners (wouldn’t risk high speed corners on the road) and is easy enough to catch. ESP is there as a safety net anyway (even in Sport - mine is a 2014 Sports Racer S). In general I find the handling very forgiving. No snappy reactions. Like a 911 (which has a similar F/R weight distribution) you can brake into a corner to get more weight over the nose and sharpen the turn-in, and you can also apply more throttle if you suffer mid-corner understeer and nullify it - which is quite counter-intuitive, but it works. Would recommend getting some time on an airfield days so you can throw it around a bit in safety.
  6. Got any images Jim? I did consider this (mainly cos Inlike the aesthetic of the shark fins) but assumed I’d need to take off the existing PPF first. (Maybe you did this?)
  7. Yeah, it was already yellowing when I got the car (2yrs old) but it’s bad now! One of these things I can’t get hugely excited about spending money on though 😕
  8. I accidentally booked an extra day off work for Easter, but rather than cancel, decided to treat myself to a wee run. 😎 Shouldn’t have bothered - traffic everywhere as usual. 😉 I even had to dub birdsong and “hot things cooling gently ping pang” into the video to drown out the roar from all the other road users…..
  9. So they aren’t actually cracks at all - that is the edge of the PPF.
  10. Correct - East Neuk. The black one is the wheel that was on that day…0
  11. Mine in Satin Anthracite. I’d go lighter for your car colour though.
  12. A mere 5.5yrs here, but no desire to sell and move on to anything else.
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