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    2014 Evora S SportsRacer, 2020 Audi E-Tron 55 Launch Edition
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  1. And just to close this one out : turned out I hadn't aligned my door glass very well. The glass was sealing well at the upper and rear edges, but it wasn't pressing sufficiently against the front seal on the A-pillar. This only really became apparent at higher speeds. 😣 Finally had some time to look at it, so the door card came off again today (I'm getting quite slick at this now).. I loosened the front & rear glass clamps enough that the glass could move, but wasn't totally loose, and then got the door shut (checking that the glass had done it's "final close" movement). Whilst outside (using my best Marcel Marceau imitation) I was able to manoeuvre the glass into the position I wanted it to be in, and then very carefully open the door and re-tighten the clamps. It seems a kinda obvious technique as I type this, but It didn't occur to me first time round - hence I thought I'd add another post here. A few more open/close checks before putting the door card back on to ensure it wasn't catching on any thing.... all good, and no more wind noise. 😎
  2. It doesn't explicitly state that you can't wear gloves - just that "clothing and footwear do not prevent you using the controls in the correct manner". Arguably, driving gloves are therefore not a problem. (Although you might still get the urine ripped out of you), but big mittens and/or wellies might not be..... edit: this is also listed as one of the "you should" items (hence it is advisory) as opposed to one of the "you must" items (which are mandatory), so it's pretty "soft".
  3. I didn’t mention it above, but I did pop to a local-ish machine shop to discuss exactly that (I was thinking of cutting some from aluminium). This guy was too busy to take it on - he recommended another place, but advised it would be expensive… I was however also wondering whether this part was designed to be the weak point if undue loads are encountered - in order to protect the motor for example (?). Without speaking to the designer - that’s pure conjecture on my part though.
  4. Interesting - yours appears to have failed identically to mine (with the upper and lower sections separating). Maybe I should get the good one off of my old mechanism and get it measured up for 3D printing after all. Unfortunately you can't make the section that has failed any stronger (as it's defined by the height/width of the slot in the metal base plate). but you could thicken up some other parts. I was thinking it would need a 2-3mm slot along the upper face so you can cut the old part out, and then slide the new one over the cable to avoid having to pull the cable all the way back through..... hmmmm
  5. Following on from my thread asking if anyone knew of an Evora breaking for spares in the UK.... I thought I'd post my experience as I don't recall reading about anyone suffering a similar issue. So my Evora clearly wasn't impressed that I'd test-driven an Emira. Later on the same day I had my Emira test drive, I closed the (drivers) door as I exited the car and heard a weird crunch. I didn't immediately associate it with the frameless windows doing their sealing movement after you close the door. It made a noise again when I got back into the car and that's when I realised it was the window mechanism. I opened the window all the way down - no noise, all seemed good - drove home with it down (lovely day), and then tried to raise the window again after I'd parked up. Non. Gave it some assistance, and it rose, but the associated crunching noises suggested that something was catching in the mechanism Pulled off the door card and - in the (frankly lazy) hope that it was something really simple - liberally sprayed lithium grease around. This didn't make any difference, other than covering the window glass in lithium grease. Well done mik 🤐 Pulling out the speaker, allowing me to squeezing a hand inside, it was clear something had broken or come adrift, as the cable sleeve was getting dragged into the winding mechanism during the lift phase. Fine going the other way. So the whole mechanism had to come out. The only confusing bit was removing the glass from the mechanism - there is a rearward (rubber-covered) clamp section for which the bolt is very accessible, but access to the forward clamp requires the window to be almost fully up, so you can utilise a round access hole in the door body to reach the bolt. This requires removal of a section of black tape - centre of the above image - you can see the image of where it was sitting vs the "temp" location I stuck it. Once I had the mechanism out, it was clear that the plastic clip that holds the cable sleeve to the regulator base plate had failed. Dropping the window was fine - this section is not under load. Raising the window dragged this section into the winder mechanism. I quickly checked the Bell & Colvill / Deroure parts site, and of course you can't buy that component on it's own. You have to buy the entire window regulator mechanism. Which - at the time of typing this - lists at £450 + VAT (ie £538 + postage). To address failure of a plastic component that probably costs £0.02 to mould.... If you don't spot the issue immediately - the dark-grey plastic component to the right of the image (beside the coil spring) should look like the one to the left. So rather than wedge a couple of bits of wood in to hold the window closed until I could speak to B&C, I thought it was worth the effort of a bodge. I cut a slot in a large washer to allow me to feed it over the front of the cable sleeve. Drilled a couple of holes in the base plate, so I could fit a chunky cable tie through to hold the cable sleeve in place. Then fitted a smaller cable tie to try and ensure the "main" cable tie stayed in place. And then fitted a third cable tie to try and ensure ensure the second cable tie holding the main cable tie in place stayed in place. Yes - bodgetastic. 🤠 Soooo - it worked. 😎 Well - kind of 😶. As I had run the window up and down a few times after the clip had broken, the cable wasn't fully taught on the drum, and without addressing that, I wasn't able to tension the system properly with my bodge. So whilst the plastic section wasn't being pulled into the drum any more, the cable mech was still grumbling a bit when I tried to raise the window, and just wasn't right. Spoke to my brother in law, who confirmed that he could 3D print me a new plastic clip. I was a bit nervous that this wouldn't be as strong as the original, but I could see where we could thicken some of the wall sections to make it more robust. I just needed to take some dimensions from the remaining "good" clip. Which would have been easy, were the assembly not bodged up and back in the car. Ah. It was at this point I asked on her wrt any known Evora breaking? Following the recommendation from @chipp, I called Steve at ES Motorsports to see if they had anything in their parts bin that had been removed to create their race cars? So after a couple of days wait whilst Steve had the time to locate the appropriate location..... "we've got one, BUT.... someone else has had the motor off it, so I assume that's no use to you". Au contaire - my motor is fine - I can swap it over. We agreed on £fairprice for the remaining assembly and it arrived the next day. I swapped my motor onto this. Re fitted the door card. Realised I'd left a bit of wood inside (temporary protection against the glass dropping unexpectedly whilst I had the mech out). Took door card off again. Re-fitted door card.🥴 Back to fully operational again. 😎
  6. Steve at ES did indeed sort me out. Thanks guys. 😁
  7. thanks @chipp - have called Steve and he's checking something out for me 😄
  8. A quick google search found This One , but it looks like it's been submerged (?) Thanks in advance.
  9. @Niffty951 - saw your comment on the BOE for sale thread - thought this could be of interest?
  10. I think @Bibs quoted numbers previously, but I can’t find them 🫢 HowManyLeft is always a good indicator, but isn’t bob on (you can see how many different variants are listed). from this - Sports Racer numbers are (in the order of) 55 manual supercharged 24 manual NA 19 IPS supercharged 4 IPS NA This totals 93, but I am sure I the number I saw previously was just over 100 manufactured.
  11. Lovely - congrats 😎 (Although it does appear to be a smidge too long for your camera 🤐 )
  12. You are correct. When Jim supplied my 2bular manifolds & cat to Craig Moncrieff it didn’t fit. After some to-and-fro head scratching there was an “aha” moment when Jim realised he’d mis-read my order and sent Exige parts. Manifolds remained in place - new mid pipes shipped to immediately sort the issue. (And I remain VERY happy that I made the switch - noticeably more urgent top end with “no change” to the mid-range is a significant change to the “character” of the OEM power plant)
  13. My last car had a 6.2 LS3. I think an Esprit with this would sound and perform superbly. And they aren’t that heavy either. .
  14. No affiliation, but someone sent me a link and I thought this was quite cool. Click HERE. There are gaps today- for example - missing individual dimensions - missing views (sometimes only a side view available of a car) - missing models (eg. Exige, Emira etc etc) - missing varients (can't for example select 964/993/996/997/991/992) And it's a shame the front & rear shots aren't done as an overlay too, BUT - potentially useful resource. 😎 Hopefully they will fill the gaps over time (using the ad revenue - it's quite "ad-y" 🤐 )
  15. @Bravo73 I found this out after driving a mates 600LT and commenting to him how nicely weighted I thought the steering was, and it felt really like the Evora in terms of weight & feedback. 😎
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