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MartynB last won the day on December 12 2016

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About MartynB

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    Flame Red Sport 350, Caterham R300
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  1. Thanks Austen, That does look like a good fit. Should just be a drop in replacement for my Pioneer HU, which itself was a replacement for the Clarion to give better sound and iPhone bluetooth integration. I'll keep an eye on Halfords for more sale action, that was a storming price you got.
  2. @Edinburgh 111s Please do post pics when you've got it sorted. I'm also interested in this unit so would love to see how well it fits. Cheers
  3. It doesn't look impossible, but there would be a few parts needed to retrofit: Hard to be certain that the bolt points are identical (they don't look it), the crash structure has changed part number for the 410 and 350 VIN 11049 onwards, so could be different pick up. see I'm assuming you'd be looking to modify your existing grille, rather than replace with the new 410 etc. grille, which appears to fit from the rear with completely different mounting points...
  4. Lovely Barry Is there a brace between the towers at the top?
  5. Scott is always worth a listen. Such a clear explainer. From my watching I'd say the Atom has quite a different set of behaviours though (consistent with my observations of Atoms IRL). I think George and others covered off what's happening for Wilson nicely and it reminds my of Andy Walsh's "The Wall" exercise, where you arrive at an imaginary 90 degree corner and turn in without braking. The base habit is usually to turn in further and more sharply than the tyre can support, requesting more slip angle than it can give, which pushes you into understeer. About a second later, depending upon the car and the tyre, enough speed is scrubbed off by that understeer for the fronts to bite, which causes often sharp oversteer, without even going near the brake pedal or lifting off in the corner. Ahh, found one (not mine) Andy gets you to hold the wheel as lightly as possible to feel where the natural grip is, before the tyre is overwhelmed and the self aligning force drops away. Hope that's of some help On the drag down the straight, vs the Audi, I agree with Alastair the 350 isn't head and shoulders above a range of other performance cars these days in that scenario. I can't help thinking that at speed you are building quite a bit of drag from open windows. Just a thought.
  6. I think I might be able to offer some info here. I have one of these lifts I got it when we started building our Caterham. In a single width garage it made access to the car much easier than static axle stands. As an aside, I actually built a single timber frame to support the chassis rails and cinched everything down to that for stability. Now for working on the Caterham I just use the standard puck style lift pads. It's worth knowing there are two basic styles of car scissor lift. Ones like mine that although they have flat decks that end up between the wheels are not really there for lifting most vehicles. Lifting is done with swing-out, sliding arms, which have lifting pads that in turn slide upon the arms. This gives you a large amount of adjustability, very similar to a 2 post lift, but unfortunately obstruct access to the centre of the floor. Less of a problem with an Elise/Exige, but the Caterham likes to keep its gearbox around there Please note that the form factor is narrow enough that the decks actually fit completely inside the track of the car, so that the tyres do not drive over the decks at all. This does prove a problem with low ground clearance cars. The height of the mechanism when fully flat is 15cm, the Exige splitter is about 12cm. Same story with the Caterham sump. So what I've done is laid two rows of concrete blocks, flat to the floor, to form a shallow "pit" for the lift. I then made a pair of shallow angle ramps to drive up and onto the blocks... The second style of scissor lift is very much designed to lift from the decks, using sliding pads on top of the decks. These are pretty much useless for either a Seven or a Lotus, unless you were extremely lucky on the precise dimensions of the decks. These lifts, as you can tell from the flap down ramps, are so wide that the car drives over the decks. These are fine for normal cars though, with jackable steel sills.
  7. Looking awesome Imran! I just watched the scoops video on YT, noticed the driver's door is sitting low, hence marring the otherwise very nice shut alignment of the scoop. Ooh! Did I just see new stocks being added to the store?
  8. Cheers. Foam tape now added. Noise gone. Full disclosure, I got Stratton to do it yesterday. I'd gone over to get the A/C sorted. I haven't been using it much at all and the seals had dried out enough to lose much of the gas. Note to self: use the A/C.
  9. Ah, Interesting. That does seem to be where the noise is coming from, but I think we all know that these noises can be really deceptive. So am I understanding right that you removed the soft-top "Latch Plates" and installed the tape between those and the painted side of the roll hoop cover bodywork? In that case I guess there was no need to remove the trim under the roll hoop, right? Thanks
  10. I know this is a common one, so I imagine plenty of you have had this and fixed it. I'm assuming the clam is rubbing against the roll hoop itself. Am I best removing just the trim from the underside of the hoop? Is the rubbing surface likely to be the front of the hoop against the vertical face or more over the top of the hoop? Cheers Martyn
  11. Hey Gary How did you get on with your search? I'm based in Cambridge near the Science Park, with the Flame Red 350 Sport if that helps.
  12. Yeah, I have one of these Not crazy cheap, but refillable with the resin beads. If you found a cheaper source, excellent work.
  13. Nice. I like the screw reinforcement. Is that nylon or PETG? Pretty sure PLA or ABS will have trouble with petrol vapour.
  14. If you don't mind buying a spare cap into the deal, this might be an option... I'd offer to print you a new part in nylon, but I doubt it would be strong enough to last.
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