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  • Birthday 19/06/1970

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    Esprit Turbo HC
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  1. My new tanks are in I haven't put the balance pipe back yet so I've not tried to fill them and see which parts of the garage gets wet. I'm attempting the cam belt while I'm there and it looks easier without the balance pipe in the way. I read the lotus talk article very helpful. My left tank I did have to cut the spigot off and I also removed the valve cover and air intake ear. The right side came out without cutting I removed the air intake ear as well although I later found out it was not required. The tanks weren't that bad ☹️ although the R/H side was beginning to rust along the bottom seam.
  2. Thanks good advice, unfortunately the tanks are not the banjo connectors so I was expecting there to be some spill when the pipes removed. Ill probably give it a go first without cutting the spigots off and see how it goes.
  3. As the car is temporarily off the road with the gearbox removed I thought now might be a good time to tackle replacing both of the fuel tanks. They are not obviously leaking but as I cant really inspect them I thought id have a go at replacement. Cutting off the crossover spigot pipes to ease removal as per Sparky's post appears to be a common way to ease the tanks out and I was wondering what is the preferred way of removing these pipes without immolating myself or more importantly the car? Chain cutter and lots of wet rags? Retardant expanding from in the tanks ? Doesn't look a fun job so any advice welcome.
  4. My 87 Turbo gauge is more of a approximate rather than absolute, reads way over full when first filled and the low fuel light flashes intermittently once down to about quarter. I replaced the 10V ref mechanical switcher with a small adjustable voltage regulator PCB from Ebay so I have a known good reference and the gauge became more consistent, but its still somewhat on the enthusiastic side.
  5. I stripped the rear suspension down to prevent problems in the future, the fasteners and bushes are relatively cheap compared to what the cars worth, so new fasteners (always a pleasure to fit) and plenty of grease means that hopefully in the future I or the new owner will have less grief when work on the suspension is carried out.
  6. I was more fortunate, after cutting a slot on the opposite side and using a vice to squash the sleeve, plenty of Plus Gas and I managed to shift it. The other side just wound out using one of the old bolts. My issue was the first one I tried to do in situ rather than just biting the bullet as I did with the other side. Thanks for the advice Gary. Simon I feel your pain hope you can get it repaired if you can't find a replacement.
  7. Thanks, I figured that was a likely way of doing it, but as movement of the blade looks a bit restricted by the other lug of the hub I figured it might take a while and the hub would need to be on a bench to do it properly. Still time on my hands at the moment and as the other hub is almost certainly the same so I'll give it a go. Im assuming I can just unbolt the drive shaft at the hub end so not a lot of extra work. Im over in Stevenage so just down the road!
  8. I am removing the rear suspension lower links on my 87 Turbo HC with a view to replacing all the fasteners and cleaning painting but have run into a problem removing the split spacer from the Hub lower link. What is usual method of removal for these? I am unable to crush the spacer along the split, certainly not with mole grips. In most cases will it shift winding it out using a large nut and bolt with Pus gas or is this gonna have to be a hub off and press out job. I thought I'd seek advice due to being wary of breaking the casting. Thanks.
  9. I'm in Stevenage, Got an 87 EXCEL SE for the daily but fancied an S3 Turbo for the "retro", couldn't find a suitable early one so went for the HC as it came up. I'll see if I can make the Fox on Thursday!
  10. The HC Turbo - Chassis 2518 from UK sports cars is mine
  11. POD2100


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