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woozie last won the day on August 4 2018

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About woozie

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    77' Federal esprit S1
  • Location
    Welwyn Garden City

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  1. Thanks you For All for your replies. I’ve noticed they never had relays, which is what I am fitting. Yes Paul, I've wired them parallel so taking the reciprocal gives 4amps - thanks for confirming! cheers all
  2. Morning, I am trying to find the current draw that the radiator fans draw, just so I can select adequate cable. I've measured resistance across the three fans (wired in) as I don't have an ammeter. I'm getting 1 ohm. Which gives 10amps, and 120watts (40watts per motor) Can anyone confirm if this is to specification. I would look on the motors but they are buried under the car and my jack currently needs replacing.... Thanks J
  3. Hi again, This may see like a repetitive thread but I have finished sorting out the wiring loom/diagram for my S2 twin headlamp motors installed into my S1. I was searching for this information on the forum and www and could not find an exact thread (maybe I have missed it), nevertheless here is my own version of the conversion. I have set this up on a test bench and have it working perfectly. I am using the OEM S1 "lights" switch and similar C/O relays as used in the S2. The diagram attached is what I have come up with this week, from scratch. It works. The diagram only shows how to wire the motors to actuate correctly, however you will notice some additions like side lights and main beam output to the bulbs relays (another loom for another day!). This loom will require making up and putting in the car which is my next step, but the hard part is done. I really hope this can help others in a similar position. Any questions, I'll do my best to help. Hope the pictures are okay.
  4. thanks for fast reply. Thank fully my perseverance has paid off. I now have the pod staying open for as long as you hold the stalk on flash. I now realise the headlight flash relay actually opens a circuit and not closes one. so yes as per your comment this now does the same. as for a pdm I haven't heard of this and neither is it on my wiring diagrams.
  5. Hi all, I have just fitted S2 motors in my s1. I have all the wiring and relays on a test bench before I make up the loom to fit in the car. I have the OEM s1 light switch working the s2 pod motors which sets to; off - sidelights - dipped beam (pods up) This is all working and functioning correctly. I also have managed to get the pods to raise when i pull the flash lever stalk. However when using flash, the pods simply go up and straight back down regardless of how many times or how long you hold the stalk on for. Can somebody tell me whether or not this is correct, or should the pods stay up for a certain time ? J
  6. It's been another large span of time from the last update on things. I have finally graduated from University, and can now properly focus on finishing the car (before getting another one..) I can't express how hard it has been trying to finish my degree and work on the car and live and sleep. Absolute nightmare. But I am really focused now and on a mission to get this car done. Not sure if i mentioned before but the under-body is now finished, body back on and the engine finished, serviced and running mint. Onto more recent works, I have installed S2 headlamp motors and have had to rebuild the pods to suit new fixtures/ fittings. I must stress this was a very time consuming and detailed task, but after a couple of weeks I have got the pods and motors in, and pods opening closing (manually) very nicely. The bottom of each pod had previously been cut out.... don't ask....The only issue I have now is to wire in the motors. I am unsure from looking at both loom diagrams exactly how they're going to interconnect, so If anyone has done this swap before or has a link to a "how to" document that would be fantastic. either way any advice is welcomed! Plan of action now is to finalise the pods, then make a start on the interior and wiring harness. It's not totally botched but I did find many wires incorrectly installed in the fuse boxes, so no doubt there will be some cutting/splicing somewhere along the lines. As soon as the loom is finalised and functioning I can get the interior in. It's 95% complete which is nice so hopefully won't be too timely. Along with the headlight work, I've built up the outer body trim on the nearside front wing. The lip here was not big enough to allow the trim to fit snug, so building it up has really helped. I have begun the other side as it also needs attention. There's some pictures here that may help others doing the same work. I hope it can help someone. Any questions, just ask, i'll be happy to help where I can.
  7. Will, I have the original front Federal bumper and lights all ready to go. so answer to your question is no. If you compare the federal and non federal looms, both looms have sidelights. The "side markers" on the sides of the federal car, front and rear, are just bridged across the normal sidelight connections. So splice your sidelights and side markers together front and rear. TO be more specific splice your front side markers from the red wire to your front sidelights, and the correct red wire on the rear, and make sure you have a common earth earth for both sides and ends of the car. Wiring diagrams are available on this forum and google!
  8. So found a lot of play In the rack. The plastic bushing on the end of the rack had become non existent. I had a good friend of mine machine me a nylon replacement. Little bit of fettling and it fits nice and snug. Rack going back on tomorrow!
  9. Paul, I am i need of this plastic bush. I know its a while ago but do you have a part number from that company i could use?
  10. Paul, thanks, the car never came with one. I shall invest!
  11. So, all the gear linkage is back on the car, along with fan shrouds, exhaust etc etc. I'm at the point where I can run the car for a long period of time. I've had the car running for around 4 hours over the last couple of days (only used 5 liters of fuel!!) As i rebuilt the cards, I had to set them up. All is done and she is running superb. originally i had an issue with the distributor. The negative and positive feeds from the coil was, underneath all that electrical tape, split and corroded. I ripped it all out and put in some new wiring. The condenser earth wire inside the distributor was also split and tatty so that was replaced also. A new coil and set of HT leads and its running ace now. Process of elimination i guess. The aro valve earth was connected to the temperature sensor in the inlet manifold and the temperature sensor wiring connected to an aftermarket oil pressure sender..... why the car was like this is as good a guess as yours. This is not the only wiring issue i have come across, just one of many and i can strongly say that someone 'went to town' in creating something rendered useless. Despite this, its looking in good order now and i have a boost of confidence after setting up the carbs and timing, the engine sounds better than ever and now I can focus on getting the body back on. The chassis is treated and painted, ive had each corner off the car (calipers, springs dampers etc) its all been stripped, treated, painted and new washers / rubber boots etc. For the body I have under sealed, cut back the engine bay paint, fitted new sound deadening under the main gully of the body, shot and painted the tanks, bonded the rear boot handle. the list goes on. I have made a conscious effort to complete all the tasks necessary that cant be done with the body on. I plan to get the body back on late july / august. That will be a massive milestone and put me on the 'back straight' of the project!
  12. Paul, thanks for your reply. This is my thinking as well. Considering the history of the car, I will agree with you. I have the oem oil pressure sender, wired up and in situ, thus my much needed explanation as to what goes here ! I think for the minute I'll leave it unplugged and once I have everything working I can deal with it then, many thanks
  13. Done some wiring work on the car. This sendor unit was connected to coolant temperature wire. I've changed it over to be correct and follow the wiring diagram. I've got everything else connected but can't find a wire for this. Can anyone tell me exactly what it is and what wiring I need to it / wire colour etc? I have the wiring diagram but just can't make sense of it at the minute. Help appreciated.
  14. @C43 thank you! Pictures are fab. Thank you for organising that. Appreciated
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