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Jimbo Bob

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    1983 Lotus Esprit S3

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  1. I don't know if you saw the other thread but they are Normally Closed switches. If the lights are on then perhaps the switch hasn't been screwed in sufficiently.
  2. Gotcha. You are correct its a normally closed switch. Got mine installed today. Kept testing it with meter as I screwed it in to see if there was continuity. Now to get those leads attached......
  3. Do you know if the switch is a normally open or closed switch? I am assuming its a normally open switch because when the switch fell apart the brake lights were not on. I read the later Esprits are normally closed and when the switch has broken the lights remain on. I picked up a switch today that looked like it may fit but turned out to be a normally closed switch. When I jumped the brake lights leads the brake lights came on - as did the fog lights. Surprise, surprise.
  4. Working through an issue with my brake light switch myself. I picked up a replacement from a local parts shop today but it is a "normally closed" switch. I am not sure if the early Esprits are normally open or closed switches. If they are normally open and you installed a normally closed the that would explain your problem.
  5. So this is exactly the condition of my brake light switch as I found it. Did it need replacing or where you able to put it back together?
  6. Found the reason why the brake lights aren't coming on. The switch has fallen apart. I saw a thread on this forum on this issue. I think replacing it is going to be a pain. Why is there a capacitor attached to it? Not on the wiring diagram. Still no joy why the fog lights aren't working. Bought an electronic wire tracer. Waste of time. Completely useless piece of garbage. Also I'd like to know why my headlights have a mind of their own and raise and lower only when they feel like it.
  7. So I've confirmed that the lights unit are fine, the wires running to the lights are fine, the fog light switch is fine, the grounds are fine, the light bulbs are fine, the circuit breakers are fine. Oddly when I turn on the light switch I can measure 6 volts going through the fog light switch. I've pulled the seats and steering wheel to try and get access to the brake light switch. I can't see it let alone reach it. I've got a old Cobra alarm/ immobiliser circa 1996 in the car. The company sent me an installation guide which isn't much help figuring out where everything goes. In the frunk (forward trunk) I have a set of modern fuses and under the dash several more modern fuses which i have no idea what are used for. Possibly the alarm and possibly the stereo. Wondering what to look at next. Giving the battery a good charge overnight incase it is a low battery but I doubt it as the car starts OK.
  8. After nearly getting rear ended I realized my brake lights aren't working. And neither are my rear fog lights. Indicators work. Headlights ( sometimes a little reluctantly ) work as do small rear lights. Bulbs OK. Pulled fog light switch, seems to be working. Ground wires look good. Suggestions?
  9. Well I think that answers my question. Thanks, I won't be messing with the gearbox. Hmmm I wonder if the carbs need rebuilding, or should I add electronic ignition......
  10. My gearbox has 70,000 miles on it. I can't find any record in the paperwork I have of it ever having needed work. Wondering what it would cost to rebuild it if I did the work myself. What parts/bearing need to be replaced? The circlip and a couple of bearings are often discussed. Apparently there is a tool kit in North America available for loan.
  11. The white wire runs along the battery cables towards the front of the car. It's not the stereo or immobilizer they both work. Could be powering an added usb cable for a dash cam - that I haven't checked yet. I'm pretty new to this car. I noticed today the lights don't always pop up when I hit the switch - they seem to have a mind of their own, the hazards took a half a minute before they started blinking, the rear fog lights didn't turn on - they were working the other day. Wondering if the alternator is weak or not working - gauge shows good voltage. Going to have to run some tests. Also there is a mystery modern fuse block under the front hood ( bonnet). And a mystery piece of metal lodged in front of the right headlight well - does that have something to do with the headlight or is it left over from the spare tire? My car didn't come with a spare tire or jack. I'm in Toronto.
  12. I pulled my battery to have it analysed at a parts store. It seems to be OK so I reinstalled it and I found I had this wire left to plug in. There is nowhere on the battery terminals to plug it into - it's a female spade plug. Also the closest wiring loom - the light harness seems full. The only male terminal is on a springy thing that closes when the rear lid is shut. But that doesn't have another wire running to it. Not sure what it can possibly be for.
  13. Should I just replace the ignition coil or spring for the electronic ignition package from SJ? What's comes in the kit?
  14. So I am on my way home for the first time with my baby - I bought the car a few months ago and it spent the summer in storage - and it dies on on a major highway in the dark, during rush hour. It's an '83 S3 N/A with 57,000 miles on it. I've not driven the car very much since I first bought it five or six times during the same number of months. I've had to jump start it every time I've driven it because the Cobra immobiliser on it seems to kill the battery when sitting idle but otherwise has performed admirably. I had been driving for over an hour when I hit stop some stop and go traffic. I then noticed the the idle felt different and I needed to blip the throttle while I had the clutch out. I also saw the oil pressure fluctuating from low almost zero pressure at idle to mid gauge - or normal pressure while moving. Voltage seemed fine. After 20 minutes or so it just died. As the dash lights are crap I couldn't really see the instruments very well in the dark. I killed the battery with the flashers and leaving the lights on while waiting for the tow truck. Fortunately that was a pleasant experience and I got an excellent tow truck driver and got home quickly and safely. Next day I charged the battery and she started first crack and the oil pressure was steady and in the normal mid range. Oil, gas and coolant levels are normal. What gives? I'd say it was the battery but the oil pressure fluctuation bothers me.
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