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Fridge - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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Fridge last won the day on July 7 2020

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About Fridge

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  • Name
    David Jinks
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit Series 1, Sunbeam Alpine Series 2
  • Modifications
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    North Yorkshire

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  1. Ceramic and Aluslyp are often used for mixed metal fixings, specifically steel to alloy, though I've never used either. I used silicon grease when lubricating the slider pins of the Girling rear calipers. Red grease for where plastic/synthetic rubber seals are used of course. I think it's important to note the effect lubrication can have in relation to the torque figures specified, where lubrication is not specified in the WSM.
  2. Just get your die out Jonathan.
  3. There's much discussion on the use of Copaslip between steel and alloy components, specifically in areas exposed to salty water. Whereby the water could induce an electrolytic process, with the potential of creating corrosion between those two surfaces. I'm not sure how realistic this is, given that some comments refer to the zero conductive properties of Copaslip grease. However, given the difficulty in obtaining and fitting new alloy hub carriers I preferred to err on the side of caution and use LM grease for all of the assembly, apart from the fitting of the outer steel nuts.
  4. Great result Jonathan! As for rebuilding the hubs, pressing in new bearings may be best done professionally, but the remaining process isn't difficult. Check out that link to Lotus World mentioned above, as it takes you through step-by-step. Personally, due to the potential fragility and scarcity of the alloy hub carrier I would be reluctant to let anyone do it, as I'm sure they will not understand the problems you will face if they damage it. I didn't warm the hub carrier and freeze the bearings, and they when in fine. But of course you'll need a press. As for the thread damage
  5. Try applying some heat. You'll no doubt be replacing the bearings anyway. Don't destroy that nut!
  6. @madmaxI think it's for X180 Esprits etc, but similar in concept to even the early G-Esprits.
  7. Thanks for confirming, I thought early S2's had S1 style rear quarterlight frames and glass.
  8. The demister element is the brown circuit. Which looks OK in that photo. Surely the black (as indicated) is the masking to protect the bonding agent from UV? Difficult to tell with such a CU photo.
  9. That's true also. I've absolutely no answer for that. It it had been an aftermarket rear glass from a US manufacturer I could perhaps understand it. They are adept at cutting glass from those made for other makes of cars, but I cannot see that being the case here. I wonder if the heater element is what has been replaced previously, using one for another vehicle. I do know that the originals deteriorate and many are no longer working. @Paul Coleman have you any ideas why an S1 rear hatch glass may look a bit different from what is expected? Slightly wider and with heater elements in a slig
  10. That's odd isn't it? I wonder why the glass is so close to the aperture sides then? Can't be down to poor 1970's manufacturing surely? The new Triplex glass is made in China (Pilkingtons now being owner by a Chinese company), though I've not heard of any problems with it.
  11. I did one of mine slightly differently, as there was movement. But similar style get around used. You also need to get the metal "sliding" split collar out. Something that's not obvious, but important when reassembling. Mine came out complete using a threaded bar, washer and nut combo as Fabian suggests. However new replacements are available from you know where if they're damaged beyond repair or destroyed. When the glorious time comes, assemble with LM grease.
  12. Possibly @Paul Coleman though didn't the S2 have S1 style rear quarterlight frames originally, then went to the plastic style seen on later G-cars? I have Sundym rear quarterlight glass "in stock". It looks the same as the S1 clear glass I installed, but could be wrong.
  13. Drastic action, but what Fabian says may be your only course of action. It isn't difficult, just not as easy as normal removal. They can be tricky things and best handled with care. I was lucky, and a pal even luckier with his recent S1 strip down.
  14. Did you attempt to soak in penetrating fluid? It's been about a week. Applying heat is also another good method. Probably best overall so as not to stress the alloy. Tricky one I admit.
  15. @Paul Coleman is the chap who's used these. He may have some tips.
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