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Fridge

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Everything posted by Fridge

  1. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I did similar back in 2016.
  2. Not sure what pipes you mean, the aluminium ones? If so, with care. Lubing the grommet inner circumference with washing-up liquid may help.
  3. You need to upgrade the cooling. I documented what I did on my restoration thread. Inexpensive. Triple cored radiator (£300), 3x 7" fans, relays, wiring and fusebox (~£300 or so).
  4. Wait until @williamtherebelfires up the Esprit to get to a Sunday morning cars and coffee meet....
  5. I know the feeling. I had to curtail the final stages of this 4 years and counting (as of 2020) Esprit restoration due to a downturn in income due to the pandemic. I had a lot of fun driving it in the summer of 2020 though, as I did my 1961 Sunbeam Alpine. Perhaps more so the latter since it is complete! I spent last year renewing certain assemblies and components on the Alpine which proved more economic. Namely rear brakes, rare drums, handbrake and lever arm shock absorbers (on pre-Series III models). Having resumed working on the Esprit hopefully it will be fully complete this time next year. Making the restoration 7 years in total. Compared to the 1 year it took to take the Alpine down to bare metal and rebuild it.
  6. I note similar, albeit single garage in an adjacent property. Having had to complain about a large, incongruous and a genuinely wildlife threatening commercial development I understand what the planning departments, and also the national Planning Inspectorate take into account. It seems your neighbour attempted to throw the book at your planning application. Looks great, and hardly a problem. I hope the Esprit goes on top! My only complaint is that you didn't include any photos of your Esprit 😉
  7. Is it an original dry sump, with AC?
  8. I've noticed over the years that Americans seem to be attracted to "limited edition" and "anniversary" models. They often appear to fetch high prices, even though to the outsider these models are pure marketeers concoction.
  9. I can no longer post photos on here, but there's a photo of my exhaust side brace which shows its orientation to allow SJ Sportscar's stainless manifold to be fitted. The standard brace will not work when the exhaust is upgraded. The LotusBits manifold looks convoluted but is supposed to be a very good one.
  10. I think my restoration thread has some photos of the chassis at assembly stage. @madrockethas a LotusBits exhaust system on his uprated S1, I helped him install the 2.2L engine and transmission back in December 2016. He may be able to shed some light on how it fits. If your chassis has the later S1 cross braces, with the version from SJ Sportscars which allows their stainless steel manifold to be fitted you may have installed the bar incorrectly. I did originally. No instructions. Then Steve at SJ Sportscars talks to you as if you're an idiot and not a Vulcan mind reader. There is certainly a bit on that in my restoration thread.
  11. Oh wow. By how much is it obstructing the gearshift? I assume the car didn't operate with this engine before strip down?
  12. Looking good! I'm busy progressing finishing tasks between heavy showers, now that personal finances and suppliers have got back to pre-pandemic levels.
  13. And remember to crimp connectors, not solder!
  14. Yes, good to see @Lotusfab following my advice 😉 Feeding those items with a dedicated power line will greatly improve their performance and will be safer too. I have just used a third Lucas fuse box for the additional power line and items. Clunky, but it is the same as the original two, and there's room for it in the glove box next them too. Just needs an additional aperture cutting in the side. I have reused the original glove box as the replacement from SJ Sportcars is made from modern millboard which is a lot thinner, and as a result is flimsy. I have reinforced the original sides using new millboard, and given it a coat of Hy-Cote satin black. Looks like new. This has worked well over 15 years for the cubby box on my open 1961 sports car.
  15. Looks good. Yes, you need those drain holes. Good find! Great idea to let the body shell cure in your dry garage prior to painting etc. As there is enough moisture in that fibreglass as it is.
  16. Check the gear linkage with the WSM as it is easy to assemble and fit incorrectly. It is close to the sump, but should not be near to fouling if fitted correctly. There is latitude in which to move the engine slightly, but this will rest in a position, and you do not want to put an undue twisting pressure on it as the exhaust side one is prone to premature failing as it is. Which upright, the gearbox/rear brake mounting with the 5 bushes in it?
  17. How are you getting on @JonSE? Have you made any progress on the body shell since its return?
  18. You'll need to drive a lot of miles Fab. As I said above, I've put about 3,000 miles on mine. I do expect it to fail at some point in the future though. Report back in a couple of years. Fortunately I've a really good starter and alternator/dynamo refurbishers near me in Middlesbrough who will replace the bearing of the new item and restore the original alternator in time. They did my Lucas starter whilst I had the car in bits and mine works a treat.
  19. Considering the number of folk I know that have had problems fitting newly fabricated early series aluminium tanks from a variety of well known suppliers I'm not surprised. He probably doesn't need the hassle, which can tie-up a small company's labour and significantly reduce their profit margin in correcting post-sale issues. The S1 was almost certainly a development car, with a number of iterations of various components and implementations. Some of which are well known, but others being pretty much under the RADAR to many but a few restorers undertaking complete rebuilds. Electrical looms, battery trays & fuel pump method and locations, rear hub assembly methods, as well as the more commonly known single/dual lamp pod motors etc. Quite a minefield for a small supplier. Though I would imagine by the S2 things like the fuel tanks would have standardised to a certain extent, so perhaps he could be persuaded? Using the old tanks as a pattern would be useful, though I know getting the originals to the UK from AU would be costly. I'm sure there will be a suitable outfit in AU who could undertake such a fabrication using the original tanks. Perhaps, given the distance and his discontinued product Mr Axminster would assist with some tips for them if sent a polite email or given a call?
  20. I put about 3,000 miles on my 65W alternator in 18 months, but they should last 90,000 miles or more according to my ex-Lucas pal. I doubt these units will last as long.
  21. Looks like mine. Suspect it is made in China and will last 15,000 miles before going bang. Keep your original Lucas one to be on the safe side.
  22. I needed one yesterday on the M5/M42. Thankfully I now rarely drive on those roads.
  23. At the Lotus 70th Fest @jonroberts had a digital temperature gauge, stolen from his wife's kitchen I think, mounted outside of the engine cover which was useful for monitoring engine bay temperature. If you get a Bluetooth one you could monitor temperature via a mobile phone app from the cabin.
  24. A bad connection would indeed form a resistance, but I think the real danger is running a high and sustained load over such low capacity wiring. I fitted a higher rated alternator to cope with increased load. No problems so far. Though I doubt these remanufactured aftermarket units last. So I'll be getting the original Lucas alternator overhauled at a local outfit at some point in the future.
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