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Everything posted by peteyg

  1. Meant to reply last week! These are approx measurements from an SJS replacement backbox. X = 8.5 inches Y = 12 inches Pete
  2. Mine isn't held in with anything either. Just the bracket and some silicon to seal it. Pete
  3. I have found that with my tyres the standard 27ft/lb on the rears works but a little extra on the front makes a big difference in reducing understeer so I have them at 22ft/lb. They are the original sizes. You will need to experiment as I guess different tyre brands will use different compounds and tread patterns may make a difference too? Pete
  4. Yes it can be done in situ. There is a special tool to make sure the seal goes in square. I was lent one by a friendly Lotus garage to do the job many years ago. Pete
  5. Nice write up Dave! I made this simple jig up when I had to deal with helicoiling stripped threads. Simple enough and worked a treat. Not going to be any use for sheared studs though. Pete
  6. I always insist on staying with the car for the MOT so I can tell them 'it's supposed to be like that' otherwise it would be a fail everytime. Fortunately I have now found a 'classic friendly' garage where even though the testers are half the age of the car they actually listen. Here's a useful place to start if anyone is looking for an MOT station Pete
  7. Yes, thanks Kev @Kevin Wheeler for organising, again! Can you please pass on my thanks to Pete again for the lift? Fun to finally have a ride in an Elise despite now needed to make an appointment with a chiropractor...and I thought my 60 year old Land Rover was bad! Good news is we didn't hit anything on the way! Pete
  8. Most grateful Kenny @KennyN! Pete
  9. If @KennyN is able to get me home, I'm in! Pete
  10. Deffo the same, possibly limited to S2 Elitle/Eclat like the wing mirrors. I bought 2 Elite heater boxes off ebay just to strip the motors. Pete
  11. Lotusbits. The motors were also used on Elite/Eclat of a similar vintage. I think Giorgio has a thread on here trying to source the motors but has struggled to find the original manufacturer so it appears 2nd hand is the only way to go without doing what your PO has done. Pete
  12. The carb mounting washers should be tightened to a gap the width of a 2p coin is what I've always been told. Pete
  13. Here you go. Are you missing the cut outs in the shelf to allow it to sit either side of the seat belt reel? Assuming S3 is same setup as S2...
  14. You need some serious leverage on the alternator to get the tension. Ideally a two man job so you have both hands free to tighten the nuts and bolts when in the correct position. Pete
  15. I put a very small amount of grease on when replacing the clutch. Pete
  16. Without wishing to be too pedantic, your dials are the wrong way round... Originally, Fuel was top right, Temp bottom right, Volts top left, Oil bottom left. Pete
  17. The alternator is fairly standard. Go for the off the shelf replacement. Pete
  18. The face level vent is for cold air only as are the two vents by the gearstick (if you have them late S2 and S3 fitment) and the one by the glovebox. You only get hot air going to the 2 demisters and into the footwells to keep your toes warm. Pete
  19. That's where the temperature sender should screw in. Pete
  20. Just caught you out of the corner of my eye as you turned at the traffic lights onto the A30 towards Dummer/Winchester. I was in the blue S2 heading towards the M3.
  21. Sorry @Bibs, no way to get out of work on 19th. If @Advantage is at a loose end he's welcome to chauffeur? Pete
  22. That's it. If you want a gloss finish on the mirrors paint them the same colour as the body. If you want them black make them satin, unless you are painting the whole car black in which case the satin vs gloss contrast might be a bit odd. That's what I think anyway. Pete
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