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Espritv8black

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About Espritv8black

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  • Name
    Mark Seifert
  • Car
    1998 V8 Esprit
  • Modifications
    No Cats and No Mufflers.
  • Location
    Reisterstown, Maryland

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  1. So, I am no expert.......but am in the process currently of re-coring my Radiator. I have a 98 V8 so that you know. I just took out all the Bits and Pieces and have it on the floor in my garage. I did do it all myself so here is what I see as far as the order goes. Mine did not have the cover under the oil coolers attached when i started as the previous owner had it off and never put it back on. I haven't had any road debris issue with the lower covers removed from the oil coolers. I think the order would be as follows. 1st put the new or rebuilt Radiator back inside the frame. Either bolt the frame and braces back together or rivet it as was done originally. Once you are confident that you have the frames put together correctly and I would recommend that new foam be installed on the Top and on the bottom of the frame that the radiator sits in. I haven't measured the foam but it looks to be approximately 2 inches square or 50 mm square. I would think a Home Store or a Fabric store will have the foam needed. It is stuck on by tape. Next I would install the 2 AC Condenser cores on the front of the Radiator. There is a bracket that holds them together in the middle and bolts to the frame. I had to unhook my AC lines that went into the AC Condensers and I will probably take the opportunity to change the rubber o ring that is on the line by the nut that you tighten. The O ring's that I see are all green, not quite Lotus green, but green. I actually left the 2 triangular brackets that are attached to the bottom of the frame and the stabilizer bar attached when I removed the Radiator. Also, you will need to have the plastic cover attached to the backside of the radiator, which is what the fans are mounted in. I would try and put this assembly up in as high and as far toward the rear of the car as possible. Again, I haven't done this yet and I am trying to describe how it all came out and am reversing the procedure. Once the radiator frame and assembly is laying in the cavity I would then take the fiberglass assembly that has the front side to side oil cooler line going thru it and would try to get it in place with the inside oil cooler ducts also already with the hose going thru them, so it is 3 pieces at the same time. I would then try to get the Radiator in the Fiberglass assembly so that you can bolt the fiberglass assembly thru the top of the underside thru the front truck area. I think it was 3 long bolts on each side. If yiou are able to get the bolts thru the fiberglass assembly I would put a lock nut on the bottom of the nut and use vise grips on the nut and then go back up to the top under the hood/bonnet and tighten the bolt with a 13 mm socket. Once all the bolts are secure on each side I would then try to attach the radiator to the support which was 2 bolts on the side which are 10 mm bolts. If you haven't shot yourself by now or if you getting ready to stop take a deep breath and preferably have a beer, your preference on the beer. If you decide to continue then something that probably should have been done prior to the radiator assembly being put up is new hoses attached for the top and bottom radiator . I think the hoses should be 1st put on the coolant pipes at the middle of the car. This is also the perfect time to replace / inspect the heater diverter valve which is right there in front of you. I will continue this write up a bit later as I have a bit of work to do now. Here is also the parts diagram for the assembly Lotus V8 Cooling Diagram and Part Numbers.pdf
  2. I just moved a few cars today so I can also attack my radiator in my 98 V8 Esprit. You got me morivated!!!
  3. I wish I knew, but there is a guy on Lotus Chat in California, He goes by Gonzo, G. Mendoza is his name, who absolutely can tell you. He has taken these motors apart and is very generous with his time. He actually in the last year started a garage to do work on Esprit's. He has many U TUBE videos of V8 Esprit's that have been modded and also a video showing the complete rebuild speeded up of the assembly of a V8 engine.
  4. Awesome write up. I have two cars each one with a coolant leak. I am finishing up a leak on another car and then I will be pulling out the radiator on my 98 V8 Esprit. I think upgrading to the Spal fans is a great idea. I know in the past I went in and took my manifold off and replaced the injectors and coolant temp sensor while I was there and also the thermostat. The thermostat seemed to make a huge difference in fast warm up and also a more consistent temp. The coolant leak has been there for awhile and I was trying to summon the courage and time to address it and after seeing this thread that time is here. Thanks to all the contributors to this an all write ups.
  5. I know the thread is a bit old, but....I installed a generic battery tender....hardwired to my battery. It has velcro on the bottom and I have the plug lead fished thru the boot and the cord is below the bumper. Doing it this way allows me to plug in the tender without opening the boot. I have it always plugged in and has eliminated any battery drain issues. Mark
  6. Dr. Bob, it isn't the crank sensor. The Schrader valve is easy to get to on the back passenger side fuel rail. Get any inexpensive fuel pressure tester and hook it up. Should be minimum 43lbs for the injectors to function correctly, but the actual system pressure will be about 50 - 53 ish. If you had help Turn on the car, but dont start and check the pressure. Next start car and once it dies, while fuel pressure guage is connected look at reading, probably will be 0 or low. The rail should really always be under pressure unless the car has sat for a long period of time. I also, believe it is the primary fuel pump, but before that hassle I would also replace the fuel pump relays. Much easier than the fuel pump. Thanks Mark Seifert
  7. I haven't finished, but added a dual oil pressure / oil light switch. It was VDO stuff and I wired it to the existing dash light for low oil pressure. To be honest life got in the way of me putting the wires for the oil pressure gauge in the cabin and the other issue is where to put a small VDO electric oil pressure gauge that looks OK? Whats the best place to run the wires into the inrterior? The cubby hole below the radio is really not big enough for the guage??? I did confirm that the dual oil pressure sender does work as I hooked up the guage without installing it. Thanks Mark
  8. I noticed exactly when I replaced my thermostat that it was much more steady temperature. I had the aletrnator rebuilt by a service locally and it really looked brand new when it wasw done. I was not having any real issue except the chargeing light was coming on and off sporadically. When i took it in they said it was actually OK, but crusty and just really dirty inside.....sort of like some of us!!!! Had them redo it / replace the bearings and the regulator etc. $85 and all is good. Ironiocally the charging light would come on and just stay on??????? tested the alternatior at the battery and all was well, so I moved on and cleaned the connections at the alternatior etc.... I had a Battery tender charger permantly hooked to the battery and I have the AC cord fished thru the bottom of the floor and near the exhaust or center section under the bumper. I thought maybe this could cause it....... and about a qweek ago the light goes out and also was out yesterday during a drive? Who knows. All Good. Glad to hear you got it straightened out. Thanks Mark
  9. So that would be 20.58 lbs of pressure in on the other side of the pond, so probably if you dont want it flickering if their is a 15lb switch it is what I would use. I would probably use the highest switch that gets me closest to that approximate 21 lbs of pressure myself. Jusat my opinion. Mark
  10. Don't use them.!!! I did a complete top end (Will Call It) refurbish. I have a 98 V8 and was replacing the coils, so I had the plenum off and while in there........changed injectors, spark plug wires, coils, ECT sensor, water thermostat (Big Help), and also changed the plugs with Iridium NGK plugs. Car ran like it was on 4 cylinders. Changed the plugs to the original heat range NGK plugs and ........when I sarted it I couldnt belive the difference. IT runs like a beast now. You could try them, but the stock plugs were really good. I did need to spray a penetrating fluid down each spark plug hole to help with removing the plugs and them put anti seize on each new plug. The next guy will appreciate it. Just my opinion. Thanks Mark
  11. The original sender is above the oil filter and once the oil filter is removed you can see the brown wire and the original sender.
  12. Here are a few pictures of the blamking plug that was talked about. I ordered the oil pressure sender and guage from Summit Racing here in the United States . I think that the screw in is M10, but I will look upo the VDO guage and Oild Pressure sender part number for you. Here are the pictures of my setup. The brown wire I had to extend, which is the original wire that goes to the original sender , so it will operate the dash light for low oil pressure.
  13. Definetly change to a heavier weight oil. I would recommend 15/50 Mobil1 Synthetic and a Mobil 1 Filter Mi 204 I believe. Sometimes Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will have a special on the oil and you get a free filter. You need about 8 quarts ish. I cut a Mobil1 Filter open and it looked very robust. VDO makes a sender that will screw in as I did it and it has a provision for the Idiot light in the dash and a hook up at the sender for the guage itself. I think I took the original brown wire, which was attached to the original oil pressure sensor located above the filter and used the factory wire on my new sender. I did have to extend the wire a bit. The new sender was hooked up lower by the filter and is a VDO unit. I still need to figure out where to run the wire to the oild pressure gauge and also where to put the guage. The guage is small but larger diameter than the cubby by the shifter. I will take a picture of what I have so you can see as my car is on my lift currently. Thanks Mark
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