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Espritv8black

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  • Name
    Mark Seifert
  • Car
    1998 V8 Esprit
  • Modifications
    No Cats and No Mufflers.
  • Location
    Reisterstown, Maryland

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  1. I agree. I have heard from some Ferrari and other mechanics that they worry that the belt would actually be stuck to tghe gears I guess and snap when it is tried to be started again on a vehicle that has been sitting for years. Thanks I appreciate it.
  2. Mike, do you think that belt issues are due more to under use and also to a car not being used and the belts having some memory retention? Maybe the tensioners also having issues from underuse also? Thanks Mark
  3. To check on the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor to see if when you floor the gas pedal it opens the TPS to 100% is pretty easy. 1st you do need a decent OBDII reader. I bought mine probably 20 years ago, but it was a very expensive $400 ish dollars and came with tons of accessories. It was an Actron cant remember the actual number. I would imagine all can assess the TPS sensor movement There are 2 OBDII ports in the V8 Lotus that I am aware of. The 1st is actually in the passenger side front seat area under the dash. The 2nd is in the rear engine compartment area I believe it was by the battery on the right or passenger side for US cars. Once you find it hook it up and make sure it is connected. I actually had better luck with the connector at the rear of the vehicle, dont know why. Once the code reader is connected all you need to do is find the TPS measurement function on the code reader, might be under "Live Datastream" as that is where mine is. A cheep code scanner wont work if it only reads codes. Once you see the TPS measurement in the code scanner all you need to do, (All with car off and ignition on, is floor the accelerator and the code reader will show you the Throttle Potion opening as a percentage. If it does not read 100% then it is not opening all the way. There is a nut with a screw I believe , IIRC, behind the gas pedal t hat limits travel. You can adjust the nut so that you have enough travel so that your code reader gets to 100% opening of the TPS sensor. Now you have full gas pedal and "Full Power" on your car. It was definitely something that made a big performance difference on mine. Hopefully this helps.
  4. I have a 98 V8 Esprit and developed a miss a few years ago, so knowing I had to pull the plenum you definitely want to replace everything you can. I bought the coils from SJSportscars and all the gaskets. Steve at SJ is very good and knowledgeable. I also replaced my fuel injectors and used the Magnecor wires. While in there I replaced the Water Thermostat, as removal of the plenum gave great access. Also I replaced the spark plugs. I had an issue with Iridium spark plugs, the car did not seem to like them. I went back to the stock plugs and it loved them. I think, just cant remember if I replaced a sensor or two while I was under there. Something I would also recommend is pulling the starter while you are there and getting it rebuilt. Mine always turned over slow and I can say that when it was done what a difference. No slow turnover Hot or cold. It costs about $125 at a local rebuild place here outside of Baltimore Md. I have many pictures of the plenum affair if needed. One other thing I did once I was done was measure with my code reader the TPS sensor opening at full throttle. There have been others that said Lotus set it up to open less than full throttle. Mine was at somewhere around 85%. I was able to adjust the stop nut behind the gas pedal while looking at my code reader and when I got to 100% that was it. Big difference!!!!! Mark
  5. Hopefully, you caught the issue quickly and you can start driving again soon. It sucks that this happened so quickly.
  6. I had the same issue years ago on my 98 V8. If I remember correctly mine just stalled in the driveway and would crank but not start. My immobilizer had been bypassed by a previous owner. After checking everything it ended up being where the immobilizer was bypassed by the ECU. A paperclip was used and it was loose. So you checked everything I checked, but now that I think I know a bit more I would do the following; We know it is air, spark and fuel. I think we can probably rule out air, so that leaves spark and fuel. If you take the engine cover off you can test the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. It is a Schrader valve located at the front of the engine on the right side looking from back of car. Pressure should be about 53lbs once you turn the key and the system pressures up. If that is OK I would check the spark by attaching an inductive timing light that clamps to the spark plug wires. This is harder to do as you would need to take off the top cover on the valve cover. Not hard just more work. If there is spark the light should be flashing and the flashing should be the same basically on all cylinders. There are others that are definitely sharper that me on here who hopefully can help. Mark
  7. The pressure at the Schrader Fitting should be about 53 lbs once the key is on prior to starting and the pressure should hold after shutdown for quite a while slowly going down. The injectors wont function or open at lower pressures if I remember correctly at around 30 lbs or so and most injectors will lock up under too high a pressure. I bought an injector cleaning machine and tried to clean and rebuild my original injectors in my 98 V8, I remember at lower pressures the injectors not wanting to work at all. Once they were cleaned they seemed to be flowing better but still didn't work well, so I did buy new injectors and the rest is history.
  8. Those 3 pins are in all OBDII sockets in all cars. They are manufacturer or Mark specific so that when a manufacturer has specific technology that they don't want others to be able to see they access the data through these 3 pins. All have these 3 pins, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Corvette etc.
  9. I just replaced my radiator and it was a pretty big job. I haven't had heat in m y car ever and I just ruffed it and am tired of it not working. I applied pressure to the diverter valve and it seemed to hold pressure when I did it while changing the radiator. That was the time to change it, but I thought it must have been something else, so I did not change it. From reading your post it sounds like it still could be the bad part ????? Michael was yours holding vacuum but still not allowing coolant thru because of all the junk it had inside of it? Thanks Mark
  10. Mine also leaks at the oil filter plate also. It would be interesting to see if a secure fix could be accomplished without tasking out the oil lines.
  11. The new Radiator seemed to work great. I don't want to say the L*** word for risk of an issue. Never talk about rain when playing golf.....car ran great and temperature seemed to be pretty stable. I still need to burp the baby, so my question is will any air work itself out of the spots when there are bleed valves in the Radiator and also the top hose? I appreciate everyone's help with the radiator assembly.
  12. Since Mightymetro wouldn't / couldn't come to the States to help me........I had to step it up a notch. So I finished the install last night of the fans and wiring for the fans and rechecked all hose connections. I had to button up the AC lines in front of the Radiator and put on some new Green O -Rings. I also bought a new Receiver / Drier. but was having a problem with getting the electrical connector out of the old one, so I moved forward and put the old one in for now. The AC has never worked and I was too excited to let that hold me up. I changed the oil filter and drained the oil overnight. Today was the day.....spun a new Mobil 1 filter on, with a magnet on the bottom of the filter. Put 7 quarts of 15/50 synthetic oil in along with a container of liquid moly a product called Cera Tec, high tec anti wear additive. I filled up new coolant with Zerex coolant. I was excited to start her............and of course the item I forgot was the battery was not on my charger and it just did not have the juice, so I cleaned the car up and will wait for tomorrow to start her up.
  13. Front oil lines went in no problem then I put the inner and outer ducts in for oil coolers . Need some fasteners so work will continue tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow I will have it all tightened up. Still need oiler coolers in and oiler cooler lines done and 1 or 2 bolts here and there and fans put back in.... Guess I still have some work to do.
  14. The blocks of wood technique worked, finally progress. We'll see how many bolts I have extra.....or missing at the end. Now how was that wiring routed for the fans.......... Mightymetro.....don't bring me down brother..........I will see I think I can.....who need oil coolers anyway!!!!!!!!
  15. So I am working on the Radiator assembly again in between cleaning the house......keep wife happy and planting some plants outside....,.and feeling like that I am making progress. Ultimately I positioned the Radiator assembly underneath and yesterday I went to the Home Depot here in the states and bought (10) 2 inch x 4 inch x 2 foot boards and also a large package of wood shims that we would use to shim a door in place when framing. I stacked about 3 of the 2x4x2 under each side of the Radiator assembly, then I pushed up the assembly on one side and put a stack of shims on top of the boards in between the boards and the Radiator. I repeated on the other side and that got the assembly very close to where it needs to be. Then I started to attach the Y brackets on each side to help hold up the radiator. On the left side where the radiator hose is at bottom of the radiator, you really need to attach it prior to putting the Y bracket on to make your life easier. I was then close enough to get the front bolts thru the Radiator support in the front of the car. These are the bolts use have to access thru the front trunk assembly.; That is where I am currently as my lovely wife wanted to each lunch. I need to post some pictures.
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