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Espritv8black

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Everything posted by Espritv8black

  1. I know the thread is a bit old, but....I installed a generic battery tender....hardwired to my battery. It has velcro on the bottom and I have the plug lead fished thru the boot and the cord is below the bumper. Doing it this way allows me to plug in the tender without opening the boot. I have it always plugged in and has eliminated any battery drain issues. Mark
  2. Dr. Bob, it isn't the crank sensor. The Schrader valve is easy to get to on the back passenger side fuel rail. Get any inexpensive fuel pressure tester and hook it up. Should be minimum 43lbs for the injectors to function correctly, but the actual system pressure will be about 50 - 53 ish. If you had help Turn on the car, but dont start and check the pressure. Next start car and once it dies, while fuel pressure guage is connected look at reading, probably will be 0 or low. The rail should really always be under pressure unless the car has sat for a long period of time. I also, believe it is the primary fuel pump, but before that hassle I would also replace the fuel pump relays. Much easier than the fuel pump. Thanks Mark Seifert
  3. I haven't finished, but added a dual oil pressure / oil light switch. It was VDO stuff and I wired it to the existing dash light for low oil pressure. To be honest life got in the way of me putting the wires for the oil pressure gauge in the cabin and the other issue is where to put a small VDO electric oil pressure gauge that looks OK? Whats the best place to run the wires into the inrterior? The cubby hole below the radio is really not big enough for the guage??? I did confirm that the dual oil pressure sender does work as I hooked up the guage without installing it. Thanks Mark
  4. I noticed exactly when I replaced my thermostat that it was much more steady temperature. I had the aletrnator rebuilt by a service locally and it really looked brand new when it wasw done. I was not having any real issue except the chargeing light was coming on and off sporadically. When i took it in they said it was actually OK, but crusty and just really dirty inside.....sort of like some of us!!!! Had them redo it / replace the bearings and the regulator etc. $85 and all is good. Ironiocally the charging light would come on and just stay on??????? tested the alternatior at the battery and all was well, so I moved on and cleaned the connections at the alternatior etc.... I had a Battery tender charger permantly hooked to the battery and I have the AC cord fished thru the bottom of the floor and near the exhaust or center section under the bumper. I thought maybe this could cause it....... and about a qweek ago the light goes out and also was out yesterday during a drive? Who knows. All Good. Glad to hear you got it straightened out. Thanks Mark
  5. So that would be 20.58 lbs of pressure in on the other side of the pond, so probably if you dont want it flickering if their is a 15lb switch it is what I would use. I would probably use the highest switch that gets me closest to that approximate 21 lbs of pressure myself. Jusat my opinion. Mark
  6. Don't use them.!!! I did a complete top end (Will Call It) refurbish. I have a 98 V8 and was replacing the coils, so I had the plenum off and while in there........changed injectors, spark plug wires, coils, ECT sensor, water thermostat (Big Help), and also changed the plugs with Iridium NGK plugs. Car ran like it was on 4 cylinders. Changed the plugs to the original heat range NGK plugs and ........when I sarted it I couldnt belive the difference. IT runs like a beast now. You could try them, but the stock plugs were really good. I did need to spray a penetrating fluid down each spark plug hole to help with removing the plugs and them put anti seize on each new plug. The next guy will appreciate it. Just my opinion. Thanks Mark
  7. The original sender is above the oil filter and once the oil filter is removed you can see the brown wire and the original sender.
  8. Here are a few pictures of the blamking plug that was talked about. I ordered the oil pressure sender and guage from Summit Racing here in the United States . I think that the screw in is M10, but I will look upo the VDO guage and Oild Pressure sender part number for you. Here are the pictures of my setup. The brown wire I had to extend, which is the original wire that goes to the original sender , so it will operate the dash light for low oil pressure.
  9. Definetly change to a heavier weight oil. I would recommend 15/50 Mobil1 Synthetic and a Mobil 1 Filter Mi 204 I believe. Sometimes Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will have a special on the oil and you get a free filter. You need about 8 quarts ish. I cut a Mobil1 Filter open and it looked very robust. VDO makes a sender that will screw in as I did it and it has a provision for the Idiot light in the dash and a hook up at the sender for the guage itself. I think I took the original brown wire, which was attached to the original oil pressure sensor located above the filter and used the factory wire on my new sender. I did have to extend the wire a bit. The new sender was hooked up lower by the filter and is a VDO unit. I still need to figure out where to run the wire to the oild pressure gauge and also where to put the guage. The guage is small but larger diameter than the cubby by the shifter. I will take a picture of what I have so you can see as my car is on my lift currently. Thanks Mark
  10. There are different color coolants and typically the green variety is probably what came in the car. There is a GM variety Dex Cool I believe (But could be wrong on the name) that was red in color. I would use a coolant that is safe with aluminum engines and not corrosive. I think the Zerek brand here in America had a coolant that was safe for Aluminum engines. I would also add a botter of "Water Wetter" or the equivalent product to help keep it cooler. I believe that what you have done will keep your baby cool and she will appreciate it with a cool strong running engine!!!! Thanks Mark
  11. My car is on my lift currently and I will try to hook up my code reader, so I can give you specifics and not from memory. I do have my code reader in front of me currently, but it will only go so far without being hooked up to the car. So I hooked up my code reader, which is an (Actron CP9190) to the Diagnostic port under the passenger side. I have a fairly long cable connected to my code reader, so no problem sitting in the drivers seat and reading the code reader. I ususally choose the Global OBDII for the type of vehicle on my code reader. With the code reader hooked up key on, but car not running I choose the following; 1. Datastream, which gives me the Datastream Menu 2. I believe the next thing I do is hit "View Data" I want to say my code reader goes thru all the PID's as it says and then shows me for example Coolant temperature, All O2 Sensors MAP pressure etc and also TPS or Throttle Position Sensor, which was at 76% when I floored the accelerator pedal. I was in the midst of adjusting the Throttle cable at the back of the engine as it was loose. I got that tight and then I think I started to adjust the bolt under the gas pedal until when I floored it it read 100%. Someone else on either Lotus Forum or Lotus Chat said the factory set it up that way when new and at the 1st service would adjust it??? I dont know how true that is, but I can tell you that if you do the reading and it reads similar to mine and you adjust the pedal you will know a huge difference. My car will break the wheels loose anywhere in 1st gear when I floor it. It is a pretty big difference. I will double check tomorrow on my code reader when I bring the car down from the lift and am able to hook up the reader to confirm that is where you look on your reader. Hopefully this helps. Thanks Mark
  12. I have a 98 V8 and yes the hanging connector under the glovebox is for the diagnostic connector. I havehooked up to it many times to clear codes and see live diagnostic information while running. It was what told me that my TPS or throttle position sensor was not opening all the way. The other connector is either for ABS or AirBag.......just cant remember, but I believe ABS. The mileage is higher than I would want, but the V8's are absolute beasts. I bought a muffler delete setup off of a Lotus Chat guy in San Diego and lost 36 pounds if memory serves me right, which is the equivalent of a months drinking of British Beer!!!! I also had an issue with a Cat is what I thought so while I was doing the muffler delete I pulled both Cats off and sure enough one was broken up and just about completely clogged..........and the othger was.......lets say already modified so that issue would never come up. Obviously it had happened in the past. Once the clogged Cat was.........fixed lets say the car sounds great and it is a real beast. If you floor it in 1st gear it will violently break the wheels loose. The turbos spool up quicker and it definetly is a pleasure to drive. I would keep looking for a V8 one and definetly buy it. I would look for as you have evidence of coolant leaks I would watch the temperture gauge and see how it reacts hot and cold. I would look and see if the axle shafts where they go into the transaxle are leaking or weeping. I would check all oil cooler connection nhoses as I had one pop off but I was able to turn off the car quickly. All good. I have had the plenum off mine to replace Coils, wires, thermostat and all sensors while the plenum was off and plugs and air filters and fuel filters and feel like maintenance wise I am good for awhile. Thanks Mark
  13. You DO NOT want that temperature to get past 100 C, and definetly not 110C. The thermostat is an 87C unit or 188.6 degrees Farenheit. I beleieve at 100 C the fans kick on. Overheating is th enemy in the V8 Lotus. At 110C that would be 230 Degrees Farenheit and that is a problem. Let us know what you find out. Do Not Blow up that engiine The cylinder liner glue will melt and rteally cause major problems. Thanks Mark
  14. I agree with Mike that you might be able to get to the bolts holding down the thermostat housing without removing the plenum. Ther are 2 O-Rings that are part of the sealing for the thermostat. You could try a 1/4 rachet with extensions and also a flex/universal joint in it so that you can get in at an angle. I would definetly try it without removing the plenum 1st. I have heard that some garages will take off the gas struts and take a rope around the trunk lid and tie it up to a rafter for additional clearance on the front of the engine. I have not tried this and I hesitate to do it. Before even doing the thermostat change, maybe you should try bleeding any air out of the system.
  15. When I did a coil and injector and plug wire replacement..........I also replaced the thermostst as it seemed lazy.....slow to operate / open, but working. I can say that after replaceing the thermostat it definetly keeps a better more even temperature and I could see that it was definetly working properly. I did have better access to it as the plenum was off.
  16. I would check the front of the radiators to make sure they don't have any debris built up on the water and oil radiators. I would make sure to check the coolant level and if some is needed I would first add " Water Wetter" which helps in cooling. Those are my initial steps especially if the fans are coming on as they should. Mark Seifert.
  17. Engine maybe, but I probably would not use in the gearbox. If you do a search on here or Lotus Chat there are some articles on the brass synchronizers possibly getting worn as the GL5 rated fluids attch to the brass and actually pull of the brass slowly. Much smarter guys than me on here. Probably fine for thre Engine, but I probably would pass on the gearbox. Mark
  18. I think that the Castrol 10/60 it perfect for it. I would check to see if the Motul is a GL4 or GL5. There has been discussion that the GL5 is too slippery and also will bind to the brass synchros in the trans and peel away the brass over time. I used a Valvoline or a Mobil 1Synthetic 75/90 (Cant remember) which is also a GL5. Most on here use a Redline GL4 fluid to be safe and like it. I probably dont have 1000 miles on the differential fluid change so not very long. I dont here any noise and dont have any issues as far as I can tell. I would think they are quality fluids and woulkd be Ok. Thanks Mark Seifert
  19. Personally , I would think that most oil changes have been with synthetic oil, which withstands the heat better than conventional oils. As long as you continue and change the filter every 3000 miles or so I would personally leave them alone. I try and really to be easy on the last mile or so driving home so that the heat in the turbos are at their minimum. Still pretty hot but it helps turbo cars. You never want to ride it hard right up to home and really you need to be easy on it the first few miles to give all the fluids, oil and differential time to get warmed up. Just a good practice . Mark
  20. If you are taking off the manifold for anything, definetly replace everything you can. I can really say the thermostat made a big difference. Not sure if there is enough room to change it with manifold on???? Smarter minds are on here....no doubt!!!
  21. Funny you said that as I tried initially to adjust that stop, which is pretty easy even for my larger than life body. It was maybe a combination of both, but seemed like the excessive slack was at the engine end. You are 100% right, different animal. I had 1 empty cat and 1 clogged cat.....so now they are....test pipes and no muffler. The turbos spool up quicker and better throttle response.....and in Colin Chapman's honor.....a weight reduction.
  22. I did quite a bit of work to my 98 V8 Esprit over the winter, which included, New Coils, new thermostat, new ECT sensor, New High Tension Leads, new spark plugs (Dont use the Iridium, stick with stock NGK's), new injectors and new fuel, oil and air filters. Put it all back together and the car and I were happy with the results. Gonzo Mendoza was helpful with the plenum removal and coaching!!! I did notice some slack in the throttle cable, so I put my code reader on it and tested it for wide open throttle or TPS at 100%. It was at 76%.......I am sure I must have messed with it when I had it all apart. The cable will let you adjust it where the rubber grommet attaches to the bracket on the back of the engine. I needed to take the rear floor out for good access, but once you have done that it takes only 10 minutes. I also had permanently installed a battery charger next to the battery and while I had the floor out I routed the plug wire under the floor and it is wedged in the rear underside air deflector. Not a 100% sure I am happy with it, but it stops me from having to open the boot everytime I park the car and plug in the cord. Once I adjusted the throttle cable and had the TPS at 100%, the gas pedal was definetly tighter and more responsive, it was a little thing but the car now feels great. Just wanted to share this and it is really easy with a code reader to check for wide open throttle. Thanks Mark
  23. I got mind from SJ Sportscars and here is the info from when I purchased it. It really made a difference in keeping the Temperature steady. O RING, for THERMOSTAT, and WATER PUMP A918E6019F EACH £1.10 2 £2.20 THERMOSTAT HOUSING O RING V8, (Not thermostat side) A918E6021F EACH £1.10 2 £2.20 THERMOSTAT for V8 Engines A918E6037F EACH £14.75 1 £14.75 Hope this helps. Mark
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