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Posts posted by Espritv8black

  1. Since Mightymetro wouldn't / couldn't come to the States to help me........I had to step it up a notch.   So I finished the install last night of the fans and wiring for the fans and rechecked all hose connections.  I had to button up the AC lines in front of the Radiator and put on some new Green O -Rings.  I also bought a new Receiver / Drier. but was having a problem with getting the electrical connector out of the old one, so I moved forward and put the old one in for now.  The AC has never worked and I was too excited to let that hold me up.  I changed the oil filter and drained the oil overnight.  Today was the day.....spun a new Mobil 1 filter on, with a magnet on the bottom of the filter.  Put 7 quarts of 15/50 synthetic oil in along with a container of liquid moly a product called Cera Tec, high tec anti wear additive.  I filled up new coolant with Zerex coolant.  I was excited to start her............and of course the item I forgot was the battery was not on my charger and it just did not have the juice, so I cleaned the car up and will wait for tomorrow to start her up.

    20200329_170550 (3).jpg

  2. Front oil lines went in no problem  then  I  put the inner and outer ducts in for oil coolers . Need some fasteners so work will continue  tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow  I will have it all tightened  up. Still need oiler coolers in and oiler cooler lines done and  1 or 2 bolts here and there and fans put back in.... Guess I still  have  some work to do.

  3. So I am working on the Radiator assembly again in between cleaning the house......keep wife happy and planting some plants outside....,.and feeling like that I am making progress.  Ultimately I positioned the Radiator assembly underneath and yesterday I went to the Home Depot here in the states and bought (10) 2 inch x 4 inch x 2 foot boards and also a large package of wood shims that we would use to shim a door in place when framing.  I stacked about 3 of the 2x4x2 under each side of the Radiator assembly, then I pushed up the assembly on one side and put a stack of shims on top of the boards in between the boards and the Radiator.  I repeated on the other side and that got the assembly very close to where it needs to be.  Then I started to attach the Y brackets on each side to help hold up the radiator.  On the left side where the radiator hose is at bottom of the radiator, you really need to attach it prior to putting the Y bracket on to make your life easier.  I was then close enough to get the front bolts thru the Radiator support in the front of the car.  These are the bolts use have to access thru the front trunk assembly.;  That is where I am currently as my lovely wife wanted to each lunch.  I need to post some pictures.

  4. So, In this government mandated lock down I was out in the garage today and took out the radiator assembly that I installed without the Radiator in it.  I also took off the front radiator duck / lip in the center of the lower grill.  Once on the ground I decided to take the oil cooler line off and the 2 inner half shell ducts for the oil coolers.  I believe that I can install those bits after the radiator pack is in.  I have the car on a 4 post storage lift and while it helps it hinders a bit in clearance when you try to put the radiator pack in.  The lift did come with a trolley that fits between the drive on ramps that you can put a jack on to lift something, so I was able to pick up the radiator assembly / package by myself.  I hoisted it under where it belonged.  It was much easier without the front oil line and partial duck work installed.  I was able to get it close to where it belongs and roll the trolley underneath the assembly.  Now I have it close, but need to inch it up by either blocks of wood underneath or as Ian Lord and Freek in the Netherlands suggested using long threaded rod and effectively pulling up the assembly.  I feel like I am closer and once I get a bolt in.....anywhere to hold the assembly up I will feel like I really have done something.  The Saga continues.

  5. I saw you did that and I might just do that as I don't have any help in this coronovirus world right now,  I want to get this done and cross it off the list and start driving my car again.  These cars are so rare that you just don't see them much here.  I know there were a few cars that I did damage to in my life, so now I am committed to saving these rare cars and making sure they continue life.  I am just a curator and caretaker for the moment.   Thanks the advice is greatly appreciated.

  6. I tried to do the lifting of the radiator assembly with the housing / brace and ducting myself.... mistake #1, so I took it apart and bolted up the radiator housing assembly without the radiator pack in it......probably mistake number 2.  I still had the triangular braces in and it just looks like it is too difficult to maneuver with them in, so I did take them out.  I think before I remove the radiator ducting / brace I am going to loosen the bolts that hold it up that are accessed thru the front trunk area.  I want to see if it is lowered or in the back if it will enable me to then install the radiator into the brace and bolt it in.  If not I know I will have to remove the radiator housing assembly and try it again with the radiator pack all assembled together.  Has anyone installed the radiator while not attached to the assembly and the assembly bolted in place maybe loosely?  I will be glad if and when I finish.  I need a pep talk.

  7. I don't get it.  If we arrange towing here in the States.......they just tow us........Where I live near Washington DC in Maryland as long as the vehicle is 20 years old or older........No MOT at you would say.  They will just give you plates as long as you title the car historic!!!!!    See you Brits need things hundreds and hundreds of years old to be historic.  Us Americans think something is historic.........shit if we cant remember something it makes it historic.  At least with cars we have you beat!!!!!

  8. Someone shoot me. Man what a pain. Even with the Radiator  out the hoses are still a small pain to change. I did test the water diverter  valve when  all was out. I thought  it might have been the issue why I have no heat. I never have had heat and really only a few times was it a chilly issue. I put vacuum  on the valve and the vacuum  held so I assume  it is working correctly ?  It will continue  to be a slow project for me for many reasons, but I will be happy once it is done.

  9. Looks very well done.  When I took mine out The Radiator assembly was the last item I removed and I had it separated from the Radiator Tray / Duct.  I did not remove the Triangular braces from the suspension when I removed my assembly, but did undo the front bolts.  I think I will put it back in the same way you did with the tray assembly bolted to the Radiator frame etc. I will also take some pictures and try to document best I can while I am doing it.

  10. I have been slow to work on the Esprit.  I changed my radiator to a 3 Core unit instead of the 2 core, since they are sensitive to running hot.  Where I live outside of Baltimore Maryland in the summer it can and will get high 90's F and over 100F, so it seemed like a good idea.  The slight issue is when piecing the Radiator assembly / Frame  together around the new Radiator there are 4 braces that run top to bottom at the edge of the side tanks and now that the internal core is thicker they do not fit as they should???  You can definitely attach 2 on the front of the assembly, but then the back braces stick out slightly.  I think I can assemble as is and put some washers in between to act as spacers.  Also, trying to re assemble the frame with rivets again is not really working, so I am changing to bolts and nuts with lock rings.  I will try to post updated pictures of progress.  It is slightly less scary now, just a pain.  Maybe I should treat myself to some cold Guinness beers afterward.......instead of the Miller High Lifes!!!!

  11. So,  I am no expert.......but am in the process currently of re-coring my Radiator. I have a 98 V8 so that you know.   I just took out all the Bits and Pieces and have it on the floor in my garage.  I did do it all myself so here is what I see as far as the order goes.  Mine did not have the cover under the oil coolers attached when i started as the previous owner had it off and never put it back on.  I haven't had any road debris issue with the lower covers removed from the oil coolers.

    I think the order would be as follows. 1st put the new or rebuilt Radiator back inside the frame.  Either bolt the frame and braces back together or rivet it as was done originally.  Once you are confident that you have the frames put together correctly and I would recommend that new foam be installed on the Top and on the bottom of the frame that the radiator sits in.  I haven't measured the foam but it looks to be approximately 2 inches square or 50 mm square.  I would think a Home Store or a Fabric store will have the foam needed.  It is stuck on by tape.  Next I would install the 2 AC Condenser cores on the front of the Radiator.  There is a bracket that holds them together in the middle and bolts to the frame.  I had to unhook my AC lines that went into the AC Condensers and I will probably take the opportunity to change the rubber o ring that is on the line by the nut that you tighten.  The O ring's that I see are all green, not quite Lotus green, but green.  I actually left the 2 triangular brackets that are attached to the bottom of the frame and the stabilizer bar attached when I removed the Radiator.  Also, you will need to have the plastic cover attached to the backside of the radiator, which is what the fans are mounted in.  I would try and put this assembly up in as high and as far toward the rear of the car as possible.  Again, I haven't done this yet and I am trying to describe how it all came out and am reversing the procedure.  Once the radiator frame and assembly is laying in the cavity I would then take the fiberglass assembly that has the front side to side oil cooler line going thru it and would try to get it in place with the inside oil cooler ducts also already with the hose going thru them, so it is 3 pieces at the same time.  I would then try to get the Radiator in the Fiberglass assembly so that you can bolt the fiberglass assembly thru the top of the underside thru the front truck area.  I think it was 3 long bolts on each side.  If yiou are able to get the bolts thru the fiberglass assembly I would put a lock nut on the bottom of the nut and use vise grips on the nut and then go back up to the top under the hood/bonnet and tighten the bolt with a 13 mm socket.  Once all the bolts are secure on each side I would then try to attach the radiator to the support which was 2 bolts on the side which are 10 mm bolts.  If you haven't shot yourself by now or if you getting ready to stop take a deep breath and preferably have a beer, your preference on the beer.  If you decide to continue then something that probably should have been done prior to the radiator assembly being put up is new hoses attached for the top and bottom radiator .  I think the hoses should be 1st put on the coolant pipes at the middle of the car.  This is also the perfect time to replace / inspect the heater diverter valve which is right there in front of you.

    I will continue this write up a bit later as I have a bit of work to do now.  Here is also the parts diagram for the assembly


    Lotus V8 Cooling Diagram and Part Numbers.pdf

  12. I wish I knew, but there is a guy on Lotus Chat in California, He goes by Gonzo, G. Mendoza is his name, who absolutely can tell you.  He has taken these motors apart and is very generous with his time.  He actually in the last year started a garage to do work on Esprit's.  He has many U TUBE videos of V8 Esprit's that have been modded and also a video showing the complete rebuild speeded up of the assembly of a V8 engine.

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  13. Awesome write up.  I have two cars each one with a coolant leak.  I am  finishing up a leak on another car and then I will be pulling out the radiator on my 98 V8 Esprit.  I think upgrading to the Spal fans is a great idea.  I know in the past I went in and took my manifold off and replaced the injectors and coolant temp sensor while I was there and also the thermostat.  The thermostat seemed to make a huge difference in fast warm up and also a more consistent temp.  The coolant leak has been there for awhile and I was trying to summon the courage and time to address it and after seeing this thread that time is here.  Thanks to all the contributors to this an all write ups.

  14. I know the thread  is a bit old, but....I installed a generic battery  tender....hardwired to my battery. It has velcro  on the bottom and I have the plug lead fished thru the boot and the cord is below the bumper. Doing it this way allows me to plug in the tender without opening the boot. I have it always plugged in and has eliminated any battery  drain  issues. Mark

  15. Dr. Bob, it isn't the crank sensor. The Schrader valve is easy to get to on the back passenger side fuel rail. Get any inexpensive fuel pressure tester and hook it up. Should be minimum 43lbs for the injectors to function correctly, but the actual system pressure will be about 50 - 53 ish. If you had help  Turn on the car, but dont start and check the pressure.  Next start car and once it dies, while fuel pressure guage is connected look at reading, probably will be 0 or low. The rail should really always be under pressure unless the car has sat for a long period of time. I also, believe it is the primary fuel pump, but before that hassle I would also replace the fuel pump relays. Much easier than the fuel pump. Thanks Mark Seifert 

  16. I haven't finished, but added a dual oil pressure / oil light switch.  It was VDO stuff and I wired it to the existing dash light for low oil pressure.  To be honest life got in the way of me putting the wires for the oil pressure gauge in the cabin and the other issue is where to put a small VDO electric oil pressure gauge that looks OK?  Whats the best place to run the wires into the inrterior?  The cubby hole below the radio is really not big enough for the guage???  I did confirm that the dual oil pressure sender does work as I hooked up the guage without installing it.


    Thanks Mark

  17. I noticed exactly when I replaced my thermostat that it was much more steady temperature.  I had the aletrnator rebuilt by a service locally and it really looked brand new when it wasw done.  I was not having any real issue except the chargeing light was coming on and off sporadically.  When i took it in they said it was actually OK, but crusty and just really dirty inside.....sort of like some of us!!!!  Had them redo it / replace the bearings and the regulator etc.  $85 and all is good.  Ironiocally the charging light would come on and just stay on???????  tested the alternatior at the battery and all was well, so I moved on and cleaned the connections at the alternatior etc.... I had a Battery tender charger permantly hooked to the battery and I have the AC cord fished thru the bottom of the floor and near the exhaust or center section under the bumper.  I thought maybe this could cause it....... and about a qweek ago the light goes out and also was out yesterday during a drive?  Who knows.  All Good.  Glad to hear you got it straightened out.  Thanks Mark

  18. So that would be 20.58 lbs of pressure in on the other side of the pond, so probably if you dont want it flickering if their is a 15lb switch it is what I would use.  I would probably use the highest switch that gets me closest to that approximate 21 lbs of pressure myself.


    Jusat my opinion.  


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