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Trunnion 74

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Trunnion 74 last won the day on December 3 2016

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About Trunnion 74

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    LOTU
  • Birthday August 16

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    Male
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    Fast cars and loose women or is it the other way round???

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  • Name
    Roland
  • Car
    1974 Elite
  • Location
    S.Yorkshire

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  1. Sometimes it’s the little things that give the most satisfaction. The Pressure Differential Warning Actuator (PDWA) is secured to the inboard side of the front O/S strut tower by a nut and bolt. Whilst I was fitting the spring I realised that, on my car at least, there was no way I would be able to unbolt with the spring in place, no access. So it had to come off to be refurbished sooner than I expected. This is what it looks like inside. It’s a simple device, when you lose pressure on one circuit the higher pressure on the other moves the piston and activates the switch and a light on the dashboard tells you of a problem. Why so satisfying to refurbish it? Well to buy a new complete unit the cheapest I could find was an eye watering £190!!! For a piece of metal with holes in it! New switch cost £40. To make life easier to remove in the future I will be fitting a Rivenut for it to bolt into.
  2. Even the measurements are slightly out. Not to worry though as Lotusbits are going to supply the correct housing and refurbish it all for me. At their request I sent a photo of my pump with all its bits attached and they confirmed all the other bits were correct for the car I have. Well that's it for the moment. Engine work has hit the buffers as the piston rings I ordered mysteriously don't fit the pistons. The issue is to do with the oil ring. More on that later. Roland
  3. More Engine news Crank has been returned all nicely polished; no sign of those wear marks. That stuff you can see on the bearings is an anticorrosive treatment that will get washed off in the parts washer. Cylinder head all done. Not much to see and it will have to be taken apart when it is fitted to the crank case. It was returned with some interesting extras though… This lot apparently came out of the head when it was cleaned! The dreaded silicon again! Took some close ups of the ports. And even then found evidence of more sealant. Only showed up when used the flash. Crank case in parts washer being cleaned, again! All cleaned ready for some new parts. Well, almost clean still got some recesses to sort out. Engine assembly lubricant “Jam” applied to the new bearing shells in the crankcase and the sandwich plate. Crank in position. Note the nice red line of the assembly lubricant, shows it is sitting correctly. Another number on the underneath of the crankcase BD 255, not sure what it means yet. Sandwich plate fitted along with the newly cleaned/refurbished oil pickup, all torqued up. Took this picture then realised we hadn’t fitted the oil spray shield, doh! Had to take it apart again, which did give an opportunity to demonstrate the use of sealant? If you look at where the join is and along towards the rear you can just see a small amount of squeeze out, it’s minimal. This is achieved by using a thin smear of sealant applied and the piece placed on the crankcase This is the pattern you get after you torque everything down. Minimal squeeze out and no chance of sealant blocking any of the oil or water galleries or the pickup pipe Water Pump. I sent the water pump off to Lotusbits to be refurbished. When I contacted them to check on progress I got a bit of a surprise. Turns out my pump (on the right) is the wrong one. Not only that but it has been modified! The correct pump for my 502 is the one on the left. This is how the pump should look This is how mine looks. Apparently it’s off a 501. And, as you can see it has had a piece of aluminium added to the back. Having spoken to Mark he thinks the most likely explanation could be that someone has ordered, been sent the wrong pump and instead of getting the correct one has decided to modify it so it works with a car that has air con.
  4. You could always buy a can of it? or see if they will do you a colour sample?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/372460781508?chn=ps
  5. They sure can my friend! These things are ambidextrous. Reduce the rod height at the top and lock off, then wind up from the bottom. Simples!
  6. Hi Dan, thought this might be a little controversial. My thinking is this. When I got the car the chassis was covered in a wax coating. Because of this I was able to locate/see several numbers written/scratched onto it. Considering the amount of history I have so far been able to gather and that the car is, at the moment, the earliest survivor, I want to preserve what I can. Any other car and I would have probably painted it. Once the chassis is fully rebuilt it will be sprayed with Bilt Hamber Dynax UC underbody wax, which will protect the chassis and more importantly, in my view, what's on it. I suppose there is always the option, once the body is back on the chassis, of applying a coat of stone chip to the underside to smarten things up if needed as this will not affect the location of the numbers. But that decision is a while off yet.
  7. Managed to get some bits back on the car today. Decided to make life a little easier and made a spring compressor. Works well, but takes time to wind it up. Stage two And finally, from this To this! One corner almost complete The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted a couple of things. One, the steering track rod end is the wrong way round, and two, I have decided not to paint the chassis. Engine news. The head has been done and is back at the workshop, haven't seen it yet. And the crank is also done, and it didn't need grinding just a good polish, which is good, as it costs less to do.
  8. Another engine update. This is the water pump, which, after much debate, will be sent away to have new internals fitted. Oil pump, which sits at the bottom of the distributor drive. Another example of Colin Chapman’s philosophy of making parts do more than one job. Take the cover off and we see the rotor and annulus. A closer look at the annulus reveals scoring to the top There is also some scoring to the inner part of the housing as well (left) Looking at the rotor you can see some gouge marks. The annulus also has some scoring on its inner edge. Although the rotor and anmnulus could be re-used I’m not going to, it will be replaced. Two reasons for this, one, it is responsible for pumping the engines oil and crucially maintaining oil pressure, and two, we’ve come this far, it may well be foolish to start penny pinching now. This is the sump now. That baffle you can see has two other bits which sit next to the “wings” to stop the oil surging from one side to the other when giving it some round corners. They make it very hard to get the cleaning agent into and the crap out of the wings. Took ages to do! And some more numbers revealed in the sump Now you will recall the “Monster from the Black lagoon sump” (above) It was mainly blocked with sealant. Several goes in the parts washer made very little impression. Time for some lateral thinking. Burn it off!! After several goes with the blow torch this is the result. You need to be careful that you don’t put too much heat into it as the gauze is bonded with what looks like some sort of resin to the plates, then clamped. Pleased with the results, means I won’t need to fork out for a new one. Inlet manifold. Just needs a bit more cleaning. Carbs. These will be sent off to the carb whisperer for a full rebuild. The crank has been taken to the place that is doing the cylinder head. When we took it in, told him it was the crank from the Lotus. He took one look at it and said " hmm, that’s a Vauxhall crank that. Bedford CF." It didn’t surprise me, given Lotus used to dip into the parts bins of other manufacturers. When I asked if the shell bearings were readily available for it he said “certainly are, and not expensive either”. Another parts scource. Result! Managed to get a look at the cylinder head. All stripped and cleaned, has new valve guides in. Should be ready soon. Roland
  9. Dave, have you got make and model numbers for both alternators?
  10. Assuming that your multimeter is accurate, the alternator (15.1v ) is chucking out too much, and indicates the regulator needs changing.
  11. Hi Dave, Fully charged, good battery at rest, should measure at 12.6 volts. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts. 15.2 does seem high. Check the alternator itself. With the engine running find the terminal that has the wire to battery and place probe on that terminal and one on a nearby earth point, don't use the alternator case to ground, see what you get. If the alternator is fine the reading should be between 13.7-14.7 volts. if still reading 15.2 then, yes the aternator could be failing. Most alernators have a diode pack which can be removed and replaced. So there may not be a need to replace the whole thing. Roland
  12. "A strange prehistoric beast lurks in the depths of the Lotus sump. A group of scientists try to capture the animal and bring it back to civilization for study." Would make a good film
  13. Hi Dave, I don't like putting deadlines on things, mainly because if I miss them it frustrates me. However, what I can tell you is this Long answer. The head has already gone over to W.S.Bates in Nottingham to have a thorough overhaul. That should be ready by the end of next week. The crank will be dropped off when we pick the head up. Once the crank has been re-ground (about a week) I will then know what size bearing shells I will need to order. I have aready spoken to the guys at Lotusbits and they have everything I might need. Once we have the crank back and have cleaned everything we can then start to put it back together. short answer. sooner rather than later Tha's assuming, of course, there are no major issues. Don't forget to check your oil pickup filter while you're down there.
  14. PT2 Evidence of more sealant can be found on the underside of the oil pickup pipe. The nuts you can see hold on the middle plate that secures the crankshaft in place. Oil pickup filter. Thick with old oil, amongst other things. This is going to take some removing. The other pipe you can see is the oil breather pipe. Nice to see more numbers that correspond to the engine number. This is stamped onto a wing on the underside of the holding plate, and is not visible with the sump in place. Not a brilliant pic this. The piston has been removed. I was trying to show the condition of the big end journals. They feel nice and smooth. Which is good news. With the piston out we can see the condition of the big end bearing shells. They are showing signs of wear Here we are removing the top fixing of the oil pick up pipe. It’s a 19mm hex, unfortunately we didn’t have one so we used a 19mm bolt with the head in the hex and the two nut trick. Couldn’t get it out with spanners. We did when we used a beaker bar though! This is the front of the engine with the pulleys removed. Will need some fettling. The stud to the right is very thin and long (picture is deceptive) This is an ideal candidate for getting broken off when handling/moving the engine around. Be careful! This is the plate that holds the crank in place, unbolted and on the bench. What you are looking at is where the bottom of the crank sits. The pipe in the bottom left is the other end of the oil breather pipe. You can clearly see wear on all the main bearing shells. Second from the left has what initially looked like a rust spot in the centre hole. On closer inspection we found it wasn’t, just remnants of some orange stuff. A view of the crank with the plate removed. Top left you can see where the oil breather sits. This is with the crank and pistons removed and where the top of the crank would sit. Again signs of wear on the shells. And some pictures of the crank itself. You can see clear signs of wear in the centres. More wear on the crank centres. And you can just make out the spray shield in these next two pics. Conclusions? We think that some of the wear could be down to oil starvation as the oil pickup filter is so gunked up. The crank will be sent away to be re-ground and sorted. We will need new big end and main bearing shells, piston rings etc, etc. I have a list, and my wallet is on standby. Overall no major surprises. I’m pleased Roland
  15. Thanks guys, appreciate the comments. PT1 Remember this? Well it has made it to the bench of my engine whisperer, my brother-in-Law (we will be doing the work together). The strip down starts. Firstly, apologies for the absence of pictures of the cylinder head. He was so excited at getting his hands on it he took it off and sent it off to have work done on it. Nothing major, (I hope), just the usual, strip down, clean, new seals, valve guides, checking it’s straight etc. More on that when I get it back. So with the head off we get our first look at the pistons since its last rebuild in 1984! The eagle eyed amongst you will know that in one of the previous pictures from that re-build sitting in the background is a set of new liners. So, how have faired in the last 34yrs? As you can see, looking ok. There are one or two rust spots in cylinder 3, but nothing to worry about. There is some surface rust on the outside of the liners, but it doesn’t look as much as the liners taken out last time. As you can see we clamped the liners while we stripped it down. We do plan to take them out and check them more closely. Piston crowns look ok. Close up of pistons. You can see just see flecks of rust on the inside of cylinder 3. This shows (top) the timing belt tensioner. has seen better days, one for the parts list. On to the cam covers. Looking ok apart from the gaskets, which were so ridged that they could be classed as fossilised! You can see on the bottom one the remnants of gasket sealer. This is where the oil pump sits on the engine. Just in case there was any doubt who made the engine they have very kindly told us. At the bottom you can just see the opening for the top of the oil pick up pipe. Some more numbers. This is the rear oil seal housing. Not to sure why there are two types of fixing? I'm sure someone will be along to tell me. Cover removed. The spiky thing that is sitting directly behind the flywheel mount is a spray shield Oil seal cover and seal, which is quite large . Onto the nitty gritty. The sump. Which is held on with 24,10mm assorted nuts/ bolts. In the bottom photo in the right “box” the oil was old, thick and a little lumpy. In the left hand box it had a gritty feel, but no signs of “silvery” metal deposits. However I did find some tell tale signs of sealant in it.
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