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Trunnion 74

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Everything posted by Trunnion 74

  1. That's It! I'm done! with all the body repairs, they're all finished Now I have some door repairs to take care of... This one's going to take some doing...
  2. ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ thanks Denis. The area is well venttilated and I do wear a very good 3M mask, can't smell a thing.
  3. Fibreglass on the inside first With tape backing Then fibreglass on the outside Then cut, shape..... and another on bites the dust, another one bites the dust and another one's gone, another one's gone, another one bites the dust, Hey!....I'll get my coat.
  4. Windscreen corner rebuild. Fibreglass on front face and inside Cut to rough shape and then profile Another one done. On to the next one!
  5. Front corner now complete. Smooth as a baby's bottom. Nearside door frame was missing an edge Stage 1 Lay in glassfibre mat Both sides. Was missing quite a chunk. Stage 2 Cut to shape and sand down Stage 3 Final skim to make smoooooth Job done
  6. Another day at the shop yesterday. I was working repairs on the front end had to get down low and this is the sight that greated me...made me smile. Sweet. Remember this front end damage? Looks like this now Not quite finished yet, needs a bit more finesseing. It's a bit difficult to see (was very sunny) all the splits and damage to the leading edge joining seam has been re-bonded and repaired. All the cracks and seam damage in the engine bay has been repaired. If you look closely at the windscreen A pillar you can just see a fibreglass repair to the top edge of the door frame where there was a piece missing, will post a better pic of that next time. I'm making progress! Roland
  7. It does doesn't Pete, I'm pleased with the result. Lesson learnt
  8. Paint pt? Well it has been an interesting few weeks. I contacted Andy Graham at Lotus to see if he could tell me when Monaco white first appeared as a customer option, his reply was really interesting "the colour charts show Monaco White replaced Cirrus White in late 1973, and Monaco White is the colour recorded as one of the colour options for the Elite." So Monaco white replaced Cirrus white as a Lotus option a good 6 months before the car was launched and as such, as Andy has said, "it is highly unlikely that it would have been a colour option at the launch of the Elite. I should have listened to what Mr Evans (original owner) has always said "The car was an Ice white" Soooo, it has been re-Raptor'd with Monaco white, and very nice it looks to. Re-doing it has its benefits, it now has an extra coating underneath which adds to the protection and sound deadening. Now the underneath is done the next job is to tackle all the little repairs topside.
  9. Well the paint saga rummbles on, but thanks to a visit to the workshop by EXCEL V8 (Pete Boole) who remembered while drinking his coffee that in 2018 he had two rattle cans made up of Monoco White and Cirrus White! A while later Pete returned with said cans so we picked a suitable test area and sprayed away, and this is what we got... The first shot was taken in bright sunlight and the second a little later when the sun had gone in. Both the paint that I got recently and Pete's paint were mixed by the same local company as well. L: Monaco White R: Cirrus White Interestingly we have a Rover SD1 and a Merc at the workshop and both are an off white. My paint guy says Cirrus White is closer to the Merc. Tinting Raptor (underbody coating) does darken the paint a couple of shades which is why the underside of my Elite looks more yellow. The other thing that both of us agreed on was that a beige interior doesn't work very well with Monaco white, black works better. However a beige interior works well with a Cirrus White car... Is there anybody on this Elite/Eclat forum that has a car in Cirrus white? Would love to see a photo of it. Thanks for your help today Pete It was nice to meet a fellow enthusiast and have chat. Roland
  10. Thanks Dave ๐Ÿ˜‚ It's definately down as Cirrus white in the Lotus paint codes. My paint guy says when you tint raptor it tends to come out a shade darker than when it's sprayed on as normal paint. Really need to see it in proper daylight. And soon! Why can't the DVLA put proper paint names on the V5s instead of saying it's "white". Would make life a whole lot easier...
  11. That is interesting Pete. We really must get together sometime, the workshop isn't very far from where you are I believe. Roland
  12. Masking up ready for underbody coating Etch primer going on One coat of etch primer done now ready for tinted Raptor coat. Here's a thing. There has always been something that has bugged me with this car. Why a brown interior with a white car? To me it didn't make sense, surely black is is the interior colour to go with white, isn't it? Another more recent thing that has puzzled me is whilst preping the underside I came across several areas of paint that looked more an ivory, off white (?) See below. I put this down to aged paint work....Seems I may have been wrong. We ordered the paint code L04 Cirrus White and this is what we got! In the words of a certain Mr MacEnroe "You cannot be Cirrus"! Can you? Seems it is. All done. I decided in the end not to go for textured application not a smooth one. This is the area in the rear arch where i removed the steel fuel pump plate and re-bonded it back in and used fibreglass filler to blend it in with the body. The interesting thing is that this picture of the front wheel arch was taken with no flash There is a yellow tint to it, but this one was taken with flash, and it looks white! But this one was taken without any flash And it also looks white! Having checked the Lotus paint chart they only did two whites a Cirrus white (L04) and a Monaco white (L25). The earliest I have seen referance to Monaco white on an Elite on the internet is 1977. Having had a look back at the original photos I was sent of the car when it was two weeks old I have to conceed that there is an off white look to it. I am confident it's the right white, but must confess not what I was excpecting. Seems that this paint has a bit of a split personality. Roland
  13. One thing you could try Dave is get a long reach screwdriver and being methodical, put pointy end on point of interest and other end to your ear whilst rotating the hub., you should hear the clunk. The louder it gets the closer to the problem you are. Bit low tech but might work. The other thing is, if the original bearing has not been seated properly due to the circlip moving has this caused movement of the bearing (chatter) this could then have got amplified along the outboard driveshaft and the intermediate driveshaft passing through the UJ's along its way. Has a needle roller in one of the UJ's failed as a consequence? Just a thought Roland
  14. An update on the area where the steering column comes through, It's all been re-built. It's always bothered me that it seemed to be a weak area as this was where the inner sill crack started and I have been told its a common problem. Not wanting any future issues I decided to add some extra strength so I have bonded in a steel plate and I will do the same on the inside. This will ensure that any movement from the steering column will be evenly distributed and hopefully no more cracking. Having completed all the major repairs I asked my paint guy to go over the underside and mark any areas that he could see that needed some extra work. He was very thorough.. Most of the areas marked just need a light skim of Fibreglass filler, nothing major. Should keep me occupied for a little while N/S inner wing Front end And the rest
  15. Hi John, Was the aircon working and then just stopped or has it been stopped for sometime? If it was working and then just stopped blowing cold then it is possible that all it needs is a top up as the pressure in the system has fallen below that which the compressor needs in order to activate the clutch. The compressor is always being driven by the belt the important part is the bit on the end of the compressor the bit with all the holes in. With the aircon turned "off" the holes on the end will be visible and not spinning. With the aircon turned on and provided there is sufficiant pressure the clutch will engage and the bit on the end will start to spin and the holes will not be visible as it will be spinning too fast. Aircon gas naturally dissipates out of the system and needs to be topped up every so often, usually after 4-5 years. When topped up the gas has with it a lubricant and an ultraviolet dye in it. The lubricant to lubricate all the seals in the system and the dye to show you if you have any leaks, get a UV/Black light "torch" and you can easily check for leaks if you need to The good news is that top up kits are available STP sell two types the "STP Air Con Gas Recharge Kit R-1234YF" for newer vehicles and the STP Aircon Recharge R134a for older vehicles. You will have a label somewhere under the bonnet which will tell you which type (my guess would be the older type). Once you have one of these kits it's an easy ten minute job to top up the system. If however the aircon has not been working for some time then the seals may have dried out too much and it will not hold pressure. Handily the kit comes with a gauge/trigger which will give you an indication if you should proceed with the top up. The clutch is controlled by the A/C button. However even with the A/C button off the clutch can still engage when the defog/clear windscreen switch is active as it uses this setting to dehumidify the air to clear/defog the windscreen and also to move lubricant around the system. Turn all the blowers off and just have the A/C switch on and see what the bit on the end of the clutch does then. Hope that helps Roland
  16. Don't know what's going on but I seem to be missing some pictures on this page and some of the others as well??? Not sure what's going on or if I can get them back? Well here are some fresh pictures. Rebuilding the area where the steering column comes through. Looks like a weak point but I have a plan for it. Glass mat in. Once gone off and I'm happy I will cut out what is not needed. And finally. I think we'll call those sill repairs done.
  17. Thanks Pete. I went for the hammock approach in the end Then filled with bridger Then a final layer of CSM Sorted the other two as well, So on this bit I have the gouge to sort along with the other crack that can be seen between the V of the other two repairs. Once all that lots done I'll then do the final finish.
  18. http://rdent.com/manuals/elite_and_eclat/seats_and_trim/VD.gif http://rdent.com/manuals/elite_and_eclat/seats_and_trim/VC.gif Hi Tony Going by the sill repair i'm doing the void is full of foam anyway so I guess it doesn't need it on the interior just carpet Roland
  19. Small repairs will be done with CSM which is a fine fibreglass filler And medium repairs will get flled and skimmed with bridger and then some CSM for profiling.
  20. Difficult to see all the underneath but ALL the underseal has been removed and it has all been keyed. Repairs anyone? Shall we start with this bad boy? There are three cracks that need attention so they will be tackled individually, worst one first. Angle grinder with a flappy wheel Looks brutal, and is. First couple of passes and still chasing lose and delaminated glass Finally get back to some clean glass but had to take some of the foam as well as it had degraded (water I think), the good stuff is harder than I expected. My concern from here is that there is nothing rigid under the repair so rollering the glass sheets to laminate it and get rid of air bubbles would be difficult and I want to end up with a good solid repair that will last. The two options are 1: fill the void with fibreglass bridger to raise the level, but I don't know how well it would stick to the foam, and then run fresh glass over the top. 2: Run a couple of glass sheets from the edge into the void and then out the other side (sort of hammock) and then use some bridger to fill the gap. That way I end up with a solid foundation to lay the final layers of glass over the top. Roland
  21. Nearly done. Previous repair? I'm sure we can do better than that. Almost everything on the underside removed and cleaned up. This is the last big bit, offside wheel arch.
  22. I will be working on the 12 to 1 principal on all the repairs Jon All the damage I've seen so far Pete seems to be down to careless storage/driving?
  23. More repairs to add to the list... This car is made out of Shredded Wheat ! Nearly got all the underseal off.
  24. Thanks Pete. ๐Ÿ˜‚Someone has actually made a video about that. I may have to get some Tee-Shirts made
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