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Giniw

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Everything posted by Giniw

  1. FYI, I tried to unscrew the sender on last Sunday but indeed the oil filter or starter motor is in the way. If I were lucky, I could have put the spanner on the hexagonal bolt but of course it's exactly in a bad angle so the spanner won't fit without removing the oil filter or starter. As I will do an oil change soon when I change my cambelt, I will do all that at the same time. I will keep you informed
  2. Hello, I don't have any experience with the S4s yet, but I fiddled with my IAC on the M100 before so, here are a few things I would check: First I would check for leaks as @Escape suggested (the usual way of doing that is to inflate the intake a little with a pump – LESS than 1 bar though!). Then I would check if the IAC actually moves. Is it parked in open position when the ignition is off on the Esprit (like on the M100) ? If yes, there is a procedure to check if it's not seized: start the car, let it warm up at idle, then stop it, wait for 30 seconds, and unplug electrically the IAC. Start the engine again: if it's revving more than before, then the IAC really is parked in open position (=good). Stop the engine, replug the IAC and start again the engine: if it's back to *normal* idle, the IAC actually moves when the ECU send it a signal. If the IAC seems OK, I would check the base timing if it's possible on the Esprit (not sure about that yet!). If there is too much spark advance, the IAC will not be able to slow it down enough. On the M100, you just need to rotate the CAS (cam angle sensor) with the ECU set in maintenance mode to a known advance (for instance 16° before top dead centre for the M100 if I remember correctly) If all the rest is OK, I would look for a mechanical base idle tuning. On the M100 it's just a little screw on the plenum, which let air pass through a secondary hole next to the IAC tubing. I hope that helps! Good luck!
  3. Riiiight ... OK, now that is reassuring On the other hand the other side is in oil, maybe it will be easy to remove. OK, it probably won't. Thank you to both of you, I will give it a try on the next weekend. (Do you happen to know the spanner size? — 10 maybe?) Yes, I tend to agree with you.
  4. Thank you, it's very interesting to see the engine ancillaries before you try to remove them.
  5. Yes, I was surprised too. That is strange because the underneath (and the rest) of the car remains quite clean (except for the springs which are quite rusty too, I will probably change them) Well of course, isn't the Esprit supposed to be a good submarine? () As for measuring yours, thank you for your kind offer but alas I think I have read that the dual prong version is different (even the resistance logic is inverted if I am not wrong — less pressure meaning less resistance whereas it's the other way round for the Caerbont gauge) But that would be nice to measure it for other people reading that thread here (by the way, is there a wiki somewhere?)
  6. Well, the sender is a bit rusty indeed ... I unplugged the wire and brushed the connector a little, then re-plugged it a couple of times and measured the resistance between the signal and the earth. It lowered a little but not much (around 360 ohms instead of 390 the before) I then measured directly the resistance between the sender and the earth, and it's still around 360 ohms. So, maybe it's the "earth side" of the sender that needs to be cleaned too, or the inside of the sender is rusty too, or it's totally broken! I will need to remove it to test it in good conditions (air pressure to see if that change the resistance reading for instance). Is it really impossible to remove it with the plenum still on the engine? I would say it seems to be accessible but ... I didn't try yet
  7. Oh yes indeed, I did know you changed your splitter for a v8 rubber lip because I had found the topic where you talked about it and used a photo you took to make my 3d model! I didn't expect you to still have it though!
  8. It's hard to tell, it all depends on the specialist and the enthusiast. In my own experience on friends classic cars, it's really not that hard to do a much better job than a so called specialist. But of course there are real specialists, too. Just don't assume they all are, because most aren't — at least in France. On a side note, I am not very fond of modifications, even if it's clever: it can become a nightmare because it's not documented in the workshop manual ...
  9. lol Do you really think that there was no gap at all when it was new? On that brochure photo there actually is a gap, which look similar to the other photos I have seen?!
  10. By the way, I have found a few photos of the underneath on @ian29gte's car, especially this one, and I think it shows that the vents at the corners are just totally fake, aren't they?
  11. Thank you, again Hopefully I will have the opportunity to have a look at the car this weekend!
  12. Thank you Everyone! Last time I asked him through ebay messaging system, he didn't have one, and I checked yesterday and I haven't found it. If you have a URL to share that would be great! Yes, the front splitter I am looking for is the black bottom part, just under the part SJ082B0054. Yes, I find it strange too, because I have seen photos from a lot of cars and most appear to have their front splitter in place. Maybe it's not that fragile after all. Still, the previous owner found a way to break it! That makes my car even more special, doesn't it? Yes, I think it would be a bad idea to make a fibre glass version because it would be broken at the first sleeping policeman ... So I was thinking of making a mould (maybe in fibre glass) and then try to cast one with PU resin ... But I don't know whether it would be OK ... (eg. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgIS_5gZcDc) As for the 3D printing option, even if it's split in two halves, a single part is already quite big, and I'm afraid large 3D printing machines (ABS extrusion at least) are not available even in the industry. I think the big printers are like 30^3cm (~12 inches). Maybe powder printing machines would fit but I was told it would be at a price. That being said, any big part to print can be sliced before printing, so you just endup with assembling the parts after you print them. Not as straightforward but actually it's the best option I could think of so far (at least to make a positive sample which could be prepared to make a negative mould and then cast some PU resin in it. If only I had a one (even broken), that would be simpler to make a mould! PS: If someone has proper photos of that part (especially the underneath) it would be great if he can share them here
  13. Thank you everyone for the warm welcome! @LOTUSMAN33 > I am surprised your early M100 doesn't have the perspex rear plate cover. Did they swap it for the later version? I hope you have the opera glasses!
  14. Two in one I will need to take some proper photos one day ... ! And a photo from the seller advertisement:
  15. Indeed, since the +12 is shared with the rest of the gauges and the earth is the same too. Thanks a lot! No real reason to begin with the gauge, I just had to begin with an extremity and as I had already read the lotus esprit fact file about the binnacle, I just did that. As for the sender, I haven't checked it at all yet. I have read somewhere the plenum should be removed? I hope it can be electrically tested without doing it! I have read that the oil pressure at tickover was very low at the gauge, but not when revving the engine, or is it?! Yes I will check it, but I can borrow a mechanical pressure gauge anyway (I am not that sure the oil pressure is read by the ECU though?) Yes, that is what I think, too. PS : Qavion, where did you get that picture from if you don't mind me asking? I have a few workshop manuals but I don't remember that kind of nice electrical diagram!
  16. (maybe I wasn't clear, I meant that I bought a friend for the M100, I haven't given the M100 to a friend of mine! ) Well, not that good actually, but I don't think it's anything too serious. I hope! The car has been well maintained over the years (plenty of invoices) but alas it has been garaged for 2 years before I bought it. So I need to address a few things : 10 years old cambelt of course, oil pressure gauge, rear left shock absorber -- will probably buy a LOTAC shocks/springs set as it seems it's still available here?! , and the engine isn't revving very nicely. But I drove it a bit and I would say it was curing gently over the miles (with a mix of old petrol and new one when I filled up the tank). The cylinder compressions are OKish with a quick test (I let the petrol pump when I did it before buying so it's not really reliable anyway). I would say there is a bit of a risk but hopefully not that much since I priced it accordingly (and I do all the maintenance)
  17. Thank you Everyone! All right, I will post a photo soon ^^ Nah, don't worry, I haven't and won't sell my beloved M100!!! (I guess you are theelanman from LEC? )
  18. Hello Everyone, I need the two halves of the front splitter for an Esprit S4s (that one: http://www.simoncars.co.uk/lotus/slides/Lotus Esprit S4 S 1995 front.jpg) Alas if I am not wrong, it's not available anymore from Lotus ... Is there an alternative production? I have started trying to model it in 3D thanks to a few photos I found (especially from https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/44816-just-fitted-a-late-v8-lower-front-spoiler-lip/) to better understand the shape and possibly help me to make a mould but ... it's not easy ... especially with just photos — the middle part is probably rather wrong. So, it would be nice if there were actually one to buy (and if it were not too expensive since I understand they probably don't last long ...) Maybe the easiest solution would be to get a V8 front spoiler lip (with or without the fiber part) but I wonder whether the shape of the splitter let the air go to the front brakes or if it's just cosmetic? And I would prefer to keep my car stock if possible. Thanks in advance for any help!
  19. Thank you Actually I referred to the wires from the dash without the gauge attached => I removed the gauge, disconnected the battery, removed the ignition key, and then measured the resistance between the earth (black wire) and the green wire (power supply but obviously 0V when I tested) and I found out that there are no resistance at all (something like 1ohm, similar to the resistance I measured between the black wire and an other known good earth). I am not too sure, but that seems highly suspicious to me, isn't that a short circuit?! But if it is one, how is it possible that there is not a blown fuse somewhere?! (I haven't checked any fuse but the 12v arrives at the gauge when the key is turned, so ...?) I connected a 12v power supply to the gauge: – +12v where the green wire goes, – negative where the black wire goes – several resistances (from 10.7 to 330 ohms) between the signal prong and the earth prong of the gauge. PS: You may be wondering why I didn't start the car to test the resistance of the pressure sender to check that its resistance varies. Actually I need to change the cambelt since it's rather oooooold (like 10 years) and I am a bit reluctant to start the engine for now ... (I must admit it's a bit frustrating but I digress )
  20. Hello Everyone, Four years ago I got into the Lotus world when I imported a nice silver frost Elan m100 to France from the Netherlands, and a couple of months ago I decided to give it a friend when I bought an azure blue Esprit S4s in Belgium. Some of you may already know me under the same nickname (Giniw) on lotuselancentral.com but obviously I had to register on here to get and share my experience about what need to be done on the Esprit ... Thanks for the good forum, I have already read a lot of interesting topics on here!
  21. Hello Everyone, I have recently bought a S4s and the oil pressure gauge needle stays (almost?) on 0. I don't think it's a real oil pressure problem in the engine because the oil tell tale doesn't light up even when the engine revs above 1600RPM. So, I removed the oil gauge from the dash to test it. I now think the gauge is OK because I managed to make the needle move across all the range (please see the attached picture where I recorded the resistances tested and the corresponding displayed pressure at the gauge). I also tested the wires in the dash: – The black one is a good earth. – The dark green one is a +12V when the key is turned in first position as expected – The resistance between a known good earth and the white/brown signal wire is 392 ohms with the engine not turning (0 bar at the sender). I don't know whether 392 ohm is the expected resistance?! I would say it's a bit high since I recorded that 0 bar at the gauge corresponds to roughly 220 ohms (please see my attached picture, again). – Strangely, with the battery disconnected and no key, I measured no resistance between the green and the black wire!? Does that sound OK to you? The next step will probably be to remove the sender and test it with compressed air ... But in the meantime I was wondering whether anyone would have some advice about that? Especially if anyone has reference resistances values for both the sender and the Caerbon gauge, and about that apparent grounding of the green wire?! Thanks in advance for your help! PS: I have read here that the gauge resistance range is supposed to be from 27 to 275 ohms so I would say mine seems OK? PPS: Some of you may already know me under the same nickname on lotuselancentral.com ^^
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