KJD

Camry, surely? The Emira looks very similar to the Evora 4xx, maybe with the footwell A-pillar pushed forward a bit.

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Bargain! Get three!

60 litre tank in theory but I’ve only ever been able to get 53 in it, and I’ve run it to waaay beyond indicated empty.

Or £15 for a re-gas…

It’s stamped on the strut. Mine says 0250N. They can be re-gassed. I got the seat lifting one on my scooter done recently.

That would have been me. 👋 This is the other side for an obd reader thingy, but gives the idea. Made of stainless steel not ally for strength and slimness. Hairy knee optional!

Looks the same colour as mine, also a 68 plate 400. Metallic Blue (C202).

This might be an issue. iirc, gps isn’t very accurate with acceleration. It’s very good when you’re moving at relatively steady speed but it has a latency that can’t keep up when accelerating. Pretty sure it said so in the small print of some app or gadget that I had.

Been through this with my 2018 400, so here’s some hints if it helps. Upgraded from the 920 to a 720 (similar to the 702 but with Alpine maps too). The Alpine flat white connector from the camera goes into an adaptor box which has live, earth and reverse signal inputs and a phono output that feeds the headunit. The newer headunits have a “direct camera” input that does away with the little box and the camera plugs directly into the headunit (or you can use the phono adapter referenced above). The box is located in the side subwoofer compartment in S1 cars but in my 400 it’s been moved to a pita position under the handbrake. I ended up pulling the excess camera cable that was coiled up in the boot through the car and up to the headunit to plug in directly. The advantages of this are you can turn on the camera when not in reverse but, more usefully, the “3 point turn” thing on the 720 works. (Engage reverse - cam on, engage 1st - cam stays on for 10 secs. It would just stay black for those 10 secs before I moved the wire). Bit of a faff to pull the wire through - rear wheelarch liner out, subwoofer compartment out, seats out to get centre console dismantled for handbrake frame access, and to pull the cable up to the headunit. Made a bit of a project out of it and did it in stages, but it takes a while. And I moved the little box to somewhere more accessible to make reverting to original easier. Hope this helps someone sometime.

From memory you need to put the shock roughly into position before bolting on the bracket. You need the space where the bracket goes to get the shock in through the wishbones. Just reverse the removal procedure on my post exactly and it should make sense. Agree about the service notes. I couldn’t see how it could work without separating the bracket cos of all the aircon pipes, etc. Lots of swearing and skinned knuckles before I figured it out.

I’ve been there and feel your pain! See my last post on this thread on the “other forum” as to how I did it. https://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=459727&page=1#pid8024424

Service notes say 30mm front/ 24mm rear. 2mm wear from new.

Just about to say that. Thanks Dave. A light tap on the pedal cancels cruise without activating the brake lights. Full press turns them on. So my theory about checking them when the warning light is on might be rubbish if the fault is with the first part of the switch. Oh well, just a thought!

I’d guess the traction light wasn’t on (so the switch wasn’t misbehaving) at mot time (otherwise it would have failed) and therefore the brake lights would have been fine at that moment.