KJD

Been through this with my 2018 400, so here’s some hints if it helps. Upgraded from the 920 to a 720 (similar to the 702 but with Alpine maps too). The Alpine flat white connector from the camera goes into an adaptor box which has live, earth and reverse signal inputs and a phono output that feeds the headunit. The newer headunits have a “direct camera” input that does away with the little box and the camera plugs directly into the headunit (or you can use the phono adapter referenced above). The box is located in the side subwoofer compartment in S1 cars but in my 400 it’s

From memory you need to put the shock roughly into position before bolting on the bracket. You need the space where the bracket goes to get the shock in through the wishbones. Just reverse the removal procedure on my post exactly and it should make sense. Agree about the service notes. I couldn’t see how it could work without separating the bracket cos of all the aircon pipes, etc. Lots of swearing and skinned knuckles before I figured it out.

I’ve been there and feel your pain! See my last post on this thread on the “other forum” as to how I did it. https://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=459727&page=1#pid8024424

Service notes say 30mm front/ 24mm rear. 2mm wear from new.

Just about to say that. Thanks Dave. A light tap on the pedal cancels cruise without activating the brake lights. Full press turns them on. So my theory about checking them when the warning light is on might be rubbish if the fault is with the first part of the switch. Oh well, just a thought!

I’d guess the traction light wasn’t on (so the switch wasn’t misbehaving) at mot time (otherwise it would have failed) and therefore the brake lights would have been fine at that moment.

Just had this. Traction light on. Couldn’t select modes or use cruise control. Intermittent problem that got progressively more frequent. Cause was a faulty brake pedal switch. B&C replaced under warranty. Might be worth checking if your brake lights are working if you get this problem. Didn’t know to check mine but in theory they shouldn’t have been working and would have diagnosed the issue. Apart from the obvious danger of no brake lights. 😮 For future reference, etc.

You can work out what you need from this: https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11917&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

Yep. Completely different because of the handbrake mechanism. Rotors might be the same but bells are definitely different.

Everything is possible. Check this thread.

That’s why this wouldn’t be for me. The standard mirror is already far too big for what you can see out of the rear window. I’ve got a MicroMirror and it’s perfect. Years of driving vans with bulkheads has taught me to use the wing mirrors more. But, whatever floats your boat, etc.

You do know that the ride height on the Ohlins is really easy to adjust via the spring preload collars? Front can be done without even removing the wheel. Pop the wheel off for the rear. Wether you can get it up enough to clear the problem without affecting the handling too much is another matter of course. I made my own tool. An old 6mm drill bit drilled into a bit of old broom handle. Patent pending.

I’ve run the cable from the phone cradle into the glovebox to pick up the usb connector. I can break into it there to do updates, etc on the head unit. Having the phone in the glovebox won’t do much for reception, if that’s important to you, and occasionally it’s helpful to see the phone, even with carPlay.

It’s held in with the radio screws. This is the other side for my Vi Monitor mid-manufacture. Gives you the idea.

Get creative and make a bracket for a Brodit cradle. It’s all very well saying put the phone in the boot but CarPlay and Waze can be useful while you’re on the way to Hethel for that lap record attempt.