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KJD

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Everything posted by KJD

  1. My point was that aluminium doesn’t rust, only steel rusts. And you can’t anodize steel, only aluminium. Steel you’ll have to paint. Apologies if I’m reminding you all of school physics class. 👨‍🎓
  2. How did you manage to get aluminium to rust? 👨‍🎓 😁
  3. Strange. Had this Scirocco a while back. Was also “Ultra Violet”, which I assumed was a VW group/Porsche colour, but it looks very different.
  4. There are plenty of places on the internet to argue about weather or not Apple are shit. Do we need to bring it here? Just sharing my experience in the hope it helps someone. I spent years persevering with Nokia. Now that was proper shit. Yes, vents are exposed but no use if you can’t see the controls to make them work!
  5. I like Waze for the camera warnings. Not sure if that feature works with the CarPlay integration. Looks like some things have been “compromised” to keep Apple happy. I”ll have to go for a drive... Google maps looks quite flash though, with the satellite images and traffic info.
  6. Alpine Halo9 looks interesting. Wonder if the screen resolution is any better than the Pioneer. It’s certainly bigger! You would lose the use of the central vents permanently (not that I’ve used mine since I installed the Pioneer) and securing it properly might be a problem as it appears very front heavy and might need additional fixings behind the dash. And a heads up, Waze and Google maps have appeared as apps in Apple CarPlay with the latest iOS. You might not notice unless you swipe to the second screen.
  7. You could try Wrap Cube in Tolworth. They did my roof wrap as in page 4 here: https://forums.the playground.org/p/7465823 Good guys. Recommended.
  8. Or you could install your “comfort charger” on the remote charging posts under the front access panel. Then you can poke the charger wire through the gap in front of the windscreen and lock everything up all secure.
  9. I’ve found you can adjust the alignment without even taking off the access panel, though it is a bit like keyhole surgery! Turn the wheel then pop out the rubber grommets in the access panel (top one for height adjustment) and use a 10mm socket on a 6” extension bar (1/4” drive) to adjust. Helps if you’ve had the access panel off previously so you know what you’re feeling for!
  10. I was pretty sure you were mistaken but I was being polite and not shouting it from the rooftops. 😁 Well done for getting your rear plate plinth off, btw. I did warn you the edge might dig in. Sounds like you’ve got the same little mark as me now!
  11. Update time. I didn’t cut my original carpets cos the way they are folded would have meant leaving gaps. I didn’t want to pay/wait for Lotus new ones so I got some lightweight carpet from Car Builder Solutions (idea from @GFWilliams ‘s thread) and made my own front and rear base carpets. £15. The carpet is a lot thinner than the old stuff but they do a thicker (but heavier) version so if it’s too noisy I can always upgrade. Then got these from Carmats4u.com: Good, thick carpet with colour-matched leatherette edgings. £40. They only had the short passenger version available so I sent templates for these longer ones. Almost perfect but I did get a bit greedy trying to cover as much floor as possible so they could be very slightly smaller, and the heel pad could be about an inch further back. They have my templates now if anyone else fancies some. So now have a set of full coverage thick Lotus carpets if anyone wants them.
  12. Three strips of double sided tape. IIRC, I just used my fingers. Lift with some steady pressure and the tape gradually comes unstuck. Careful the last corner doesn’t dig in as you get to the end! Not sure if my matt paint made it any easier.
  13. Plinth comes off OK with patience and steady pressure. A full size legal plate doesn’t quite fit neatly so I had to shrink by about 10%. 😉 Left a bit more than necessary either side as it looks a bit less “non-standard”.
  14. IIRC, there’s a cork gasket behind it that can get a bit stuck - just take the old one off carefully. And I think there’s an o-ring that you’ll need to swap too.
  15. It’s a Pioneer AVH-Z7000 Nicolas. A few poeple have fitted it on here. If you do a search you will find more info.
  16. Little minor modding. Moved the subwoofer from the passenger footwell to the rear bulkhead. Other things you might notice in this pic: Pioneer flip up radio VI monitor (had it for years so might as well fit it) 30mm steering wheel spacer Steering column raised 20mm (see difference top and bottom of shroud) Phone cradle bolted to dash (radical I know - but it works well) SSC harness bar fittings - very neat. The wife’s Bay leaf plant - that the winter was unkind too. A Yamaha WR450F with a leaking fork seal. 😁
  17. “Re-aligning” the price does no harm, and the retrospective refund is great, but... Removing the rose-tinted specs, could this be viewed as a way of shifting some forecourt stock before then selling a car (realistically) worth £75k for £85k, instead of one worth £80k for £90k (once the carbon and Nitrons are gone). Sorry for the injection of cynicism, but it’s still too expensive compared to what you get in a 350 Sport for £60k.
  18. I’ve seen two completely different types. One like the pic above, and another where you can clearly see through the vents, and poke your fingers in. Sorry, didn’t take photos.
  19. Hi all. I’ve got an early 350 Sport with full carpets, the ones that cover the ally “step” in front of the seats. I think they are actually an earlier V6S spec that made their way onto my car in build. Anyway, I think I prefer the look of the exposed ally step and was going to just cut my carpets. But I wondered if anyone preferred the opposite and wanted to swap thier “half” carpet setup that is current spec for my “full” set. I’ve also got the passenger footrest so that plus all the carpets on the floor would need to be swapped as the passenger carpet and mat are different lengths. Anyone interested before I get the scissors out?
  20. Mine is a March ‘16, lives outside, does an irregular urban commute of 5 miles all year round, has a non-insurance tracker and my battery is fine (so far). You sure you haven’t got another problem draining yours?
  21. My heights are the same as standard, out of the box, factory stock road settings. As they were before I started fiddling How that is measured is a box of frogs! The manual says it should be 125mm loaded. I get around 133mm, as best as I can measure on my not perfectly flat patio. The important thing is that it’s the same as before. Travel wise, this is what I’ve got when on the ground but unloaded. Hard to get in there to measure, but visually it looks like I’ve got more. btw; did you notice I’ve got yellow springs. The correct colour.😁 (thanks Russ). I also notice you’ve already got the shorter end eyes Imran, so that restricts your options. The correct brackets definitely made a difference for me. The rears, with the helpers, are no problem. There’s enough thread to lower the height quite a bit, but the helpers keep what would be an otherwise loose spring in place. Did I mention my springs are yellow. 👍
  22. I’ve recently joined you guys in the Öhlins club and front ride height has been vexing me too. I wanted to run factory standard road height so, with the standard shocks (and with 75kg in each seat and full fuel, as specified) measured everything (chassis height and wheel rim to wheel arch as a check) before I swapped over, intending to adjust back to that level. Now with the Öhlins, to get standard front height (133mm roughly) I need to have the spring 5mm loose on full droop. If I wind off all the way height comes down about another 8-10mm. The spring is then flapping in the breeze (like Imran above). This is with 15% softer springs (800/1050) than Cup R spec so they should let the car drop a bit more too. This is also with the specific Cup R Öhlins brackets that are definetly different to Nitron ones (Dave and I know this! 😉). They hold the top mount slightly higher so drop the car down slightly. The top of the spring and collar of the Ohlins also fouls on the Nitron bracket. I’m a bit concerned about the loose spring come MOT time but Russ reckons I’ll be fine. We’ll see next March! There is an option to have shorter top eyes (as some racers do, apparently) but you’ll run into other issues with having to preload the spring back up (again, according to Russ) btw, thanks to Dave and Russ for all the help and advice getting me this far!
  23. Those are for high and low speed compression damping, located on the remote reservoirs. 2 out of your 3 way adjustments. The third is rebound adjustment which is on the bottom of the actual damper body, for which my post above will help. When you can read your manual it should all become clear. FYI, The Öhlins are 2-way and don’t have the remote reservoirs so both the compression and rebound adjusters are at the bottom of the damper. As per this pic:
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