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Gis

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Gis last won the day on December 5 2020

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About Gis

  • Birthday February 6

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  • Name
    Giz
  • Car
    83 Lotus Turbo Esprit
  • Modifications
    Tanks, carbs, brakes, suspension & AC done, paint as well
  • Location
    Singapore

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  1. SJ is fine too. They arguably have the largest stocked range and a good online shop.
  2. Alternatively, a regular application of RainX works too. I hardly ever use the wipers since they are fairly slow anyway. The repellent does a good job, even in heavy downpours. I’d assume if that works here in The Far East with monsoon rains, it should work in the UK too 🙂.
  3. 😀we were early at the carpark so it was a good opportunity for some photos Michael. About 15 cars I’d say. All makes, some younger, some older. We had a biker with a pillion rider who took photos on the road. Roads were not too busy on a Sunday morning with partial lockdown still in place. https://www.classiccarclubsg.com/
  4. Last weekend Singapore National Day outing with the classic car club folks. The old gal still looks good and she’s in good shape. Timeless lack of curves.
  5. In other words, incorrect slave length adjustment and pushing the release bearing in too far/hard over a period of time, will eventually overcome the weld points of the bearing housing.
  6. I had a similar issue some years ago Gordon. Cracked release bearing housing. It was caused by an incorrect pushrod (too long). Must have been changed by a PO for reasons unknown. That stuffed up the kinematics and overloaded the bearing housing over time. Especially so with the correct slave cylinder length adjustment setting as recommended in the service notes. It manifested in distinct shuddering on the clutch pedal before it eventually let go. Swopped the part for the correct one, replaced the complete clutch and release bearing, issue resolved.
  7. On second look, fully agree with Steve. No connection to the plenum. Stuffs up your pressure regulator. There are typically 2 small connection points on the plenum,. One is right next to the pressure regulator (from below) and the other is at the front of the plenum (cambelt side).
  8. It’s easy to check what that flap does. Start the engine, control the throttle from the engine bay, rev it and observe the function of that vacuum solenoid and connected flap.
  9. This is a US spec car with an air pump at the back. The vacuum solenoid seems to operate a flap by the looks of it. Is that solenoid connected and operating? Unsure if that’s is related to your issues. I’d look to the fuel delivery system first, fuel pump, pressure regulator and then carbs.
  10. Good that you have some progress here Paul. The rod adjustment is guided by the brake pedal position. You want it to be in line with the other pedals. You’re lucky that you have Gary close by. When I started out with my TE some years ago I contemplated flying him to Singapore a few times 😂
  11. I run the same setup with wilwood (front) and PNM (rear) on my turbo. It works perfectly. Huge performance upgrade vs original. I think we need more details here. Does the pedal fall through, chances are you have a leak somewhere. This is visible and can be traced. If the pedal goes hard without braking performance, chances are you have a vacuum or booster leak. The vacuum is pulled in your booster through the engine. The booster (aka servo) provides approx 80% of your brake power. No vacuum or a booster leak will feel like ‘no brakes’.
  12. I’d probably go with an Essex theme here. I’m not that fond of the downward crease and flap on the rear sides. It makes the car look heavy and complicates the whole side profile unnecessarily. I’d much prefer the clean side lines and shapes of a T50 for example. In the highly unlikely event of ever owning an Emira, I’d try to cover that crease with a dark foil to make it less obvious. Ultimately everyone will have an own view of course. It was a great launch, very enjoyable and well done in my view. 👍👍👍
  13. I thought Colin Chapman’s silver turbo esprit looked awesome in the Emira launch😀.
  14. Mine is the same as Andy’s and Fabian’s. The spring fouls the bracket. I put a spring on the main spring to pull it clear of the contact area.
  15. Sounds more like a contact issue within the stalk to me. Disassemble and give it a clean?
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