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About Gis

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  • Car
    84 Lotus Turbo Esprit
  • Modifications
    Tanks done - brakes done - paint next
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  1. Looks great Chris. Nice clean setup.
  2. Gis


    Here is an important update to my own blue belt story. At the initial 105Hz setting the car was fine for a very short time only. The blue belts seem to have some particularities. They don’t seem to stretch much but somehow soften and that affects they’re behaviour. What happened? Well, I drove the car a few times after the initial beltchange and soon it developed a rattle at start with a cold engine. Starting the car was fine and no anomalies at idle but a loud rattle developed at a narrow rpm window of approx 1500-1800 rpm. Below, nothing, above that nothing... Once the car was at temperature - the rattle was gone across the full rpm range. The rattle sounded like a couple of steel nails being shaken in a metal can. While trying to figure out where the noise came from at the back, I noticed a very visible belt flutter halfway between the intake and the dizzie pulleys at that particular rpm window. It was then clear the tensioner was the sound source... my initial concern was that the belt might have jumped some teeth but the proved unfounded. Let the car cool off, put it at 30b4TDC and checked frequency. 105Hz - unchanged... rotated the engine to TDC and took a Krikit measurement. Approx 45 pounds. Unchanged. So in terms of longitudinal tension the belt was at the same initial values as before but it behaved very differently... Next was pulling off the alternator to get access to the tensioner, tightened the belt to 110Hz at 30b4TDC and 50 on the krikit at TDC. No belt whine at temperature. It also eliminated the rattle at lower revs. Now I have a much smaller rattle at about 2500rpm and it disappears very quickly as the car warms up. I will now have to re-tension it again a little higher. The sweet spot might be around 112Hz and just slightly above 50 on the Krikit. That should eliminate any cold start tensioner shake/harmonics issue and still not produce a whine when warm. So these belts don’t stretch but they somehow soften become more flexible and need to be retensioned shortly after install. The tensioner rattle in this case acted as an early warning system (albeit a scary one..)
  3. The disk flange has no influence on the hub location as it’s the inner hub face felt seal that makes contact with the upright face. Since there is no brake shield, the hub moves in closer, that’s where the track change comes from to my understanding. The inner bearing doesn’t define the end location. The compressed felt seal does and that’s moved a little further inwards.
  4. Caliper was clear Steve. Contact was between upper wishbone and rim clip on full lock.
  5. ...and yes, it’s a Goodyear Grand Prix vintage spare...😀
  6. Medium term I plan to put in an additional small electric vacuum pump with a small tank and switch off relay. I know it’s not for the purist but I prefer my brakes to work with the engine on or off. It’s not much extra weight, easy to source and install and a big plus for safety.
  7. I got the master cylinder on Amazon. It’s a 7/8 inch type. I put in a new smaller booster (the golden type in the picture, also off Amazon) but that was a failure and did not work. So end result is the new wilwood master with the old booster (which is not the original lotus type and had been switched by a P.O.) SJ has the original master at a much lower cost. I could not use it because I did not have the reservoir to go with it (P.O. put in a non-original master cylinder type)
  8. The PNM wilwood kit includes new brackets, braided lines and new rotors if you choose to add them on. I thought it made sense to swop the old solid disks for proper new, ventilated ones. The old brake shields are to be discarded in the process. This narrows the front track by 2-3mm on each wheel. It brings in the rims closer to the upper wishbones. I had some balance clips on the rim inside and they actually touched the wishbones on full lock. Had to replace them with glued weights further in on the rim. Rest is all good. Brakes feel good. I’m using the standard wilwood road pads. Make sure you also look at the rest of the brake setup, I.e. the vacuum rail at the back, the condition of the hoses, and the connection all the way to the front, master cylinder and booster. Any of these not working correctly will lead to bad braking performance. I had a non original master cylinder in there by a P.O. swopped it out for a wilwood set as well.
  9. I put in the PNM Wilwood front kit and the PNM rear calipers. Happy with them. Much better braking performance and consistency Only diffence at the back is the routing of the handbrake cables over the top rather than around from behind below.
  10. Gis

    Speedo drive gear

    Thanks Harry, I’ll be in touch 👍
  11. Gis

    Speedo drive gear

    I have a small GPS HUD display as a backup and I’d like to retain the original cockpit look. Didn’t use a graphite lubricant, it was a regular spray on lubricant. Thanks, might be worth looking at again.
  12. Gis

    Speedo drive gear

    Thanks Steve and Atwell. My unit operates but the speedo needle has a bit of a wobble. I cleaned up the speedo itself (which happened to be fine) and swopped in a new cable too. The wobble is less now but still annoying. I Guess it’s an accumulation of play in the whole system. The gears at the back is the most obvious wear part. I’ll check with Harry. Yes, I’m aware that the backplate has to come off. Next tranny oil change then...
  13. SJ has run out of speedo driven gears A079F6054F. Anybody knows a potential source for that part?
  14. Agree with Steve, definitely top right, that’s also where the other end comes out at the shifter side.
  15. Gis

    Good day for a drive

    That’s really cool Mark. Enjoy the car!