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Gis

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About Gis

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday February 6

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    Gis
  • Car
    84 Lotus Turbo Esprit
  • Modifications
    Tanks done - brakes done - suspension done - color change?
  • Location
    Singapore
  • Country
    SG

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  1. Actually I agree with that. Superstition aside, they react in interesting ways to what you do for them. When I picked mine up after I bought the car, the very first thing she did was blow a headlight lift fuse upon turning the key. A warning? Then there was a temper once in a while until I started investing some real quality spannering time and parts. She’s been happy ever since and not missed a beat. Oh, almost forgot, she dropped an exhaust manifold bolt right in the spot where I parked her. Unbelievable. Once in a while she even winks at me with one eye when the light pods are up as like to say she’s happy. Guess we just have to pay proper attention to them...
  2. As far as I can remember, I just removed the pin on the compartment side and pulled the whole assy out. Found it easier than disconnecting the rods in the tight space between the bulkhead. The pin on my configuration was put in from the outside toward the steering column. Tight spaces and fiddly for sure... this is on a 84TE btw. Is it different on your S2?
  3. I find it difficult to remove the servo without the master brake cylinder being at least party out of the way. Depending on how long your brake line tubes are you might be able to detach and move the master cylinder out of the way to gain enough wiggle room to depress the brake pedal and free up the pin on the other side. Then you might take the assy out as one. For the lower servo to bracket nuts, try different shaped spanners or a small nut set. Soak them with WD40 first. With patience and some swearing it is possible to get them loose. I have collected a range of different shaped spanners over time to tackle those jobs, long, short, straight, bent, thick and thin, you name it.
  4. Isn’t it a DHLA40 on your car? I think the 45s came later. Different jet sizes. Section TDB, page 9
  5. Just out of curiosity; ISO recommends a balancing value of G40 for drive shafts. With an estimated 20 grams unbalanced weight sitting at approx 40mm distance to the rotational centre and a mass of 2kgs for the rotor assembly, it would limit rpm to about 1000 (95 kmh), so at least theoretically this could be felt. I assume most of you go a little faster than that. So it might be worth considering basic balance (distributing the clip heads around evenly as Steve recommends) to prolong the lifespan of the joints. http://www.irdbalancing.com/assets/balance_quality_requirements_of_rigid_rotors.pdf Another option is to reduce the unbalance weight itself. Straps instead of clips
  6. It depends on how much vacuum your engine produces. N/A engines are better than turbo engine in that regard. There is quite a lot of information on boosterless brakes on the net. A good one here: https://www.trias-sozial.com/calculations-without-brake-booster-engineering/ one challenge you have is to get to a much needed higher pedal ratio given the limited space in the footwell
  7. Good story and a great car Jesse. They are very special and unique with their very own character, if you look after them, they’ll reward you. When I got mine, the absolutely first thing she did, after picking her up, is blow a fuse and kept the left light pod up. It almost felt like a warning. Well, 2 years later, I’m doing my bit to keep her happy and she’s been great. Happy ownership mate and welcome to the forum.
  8. Thanks Andy. I’ll pull the drive and replace the nylon cartridge eventually. For now, I’m happy with a steady speedo needle, thanks to a temporary strap holding the drive in fully.
  9. Well, I was probably somewhat wrong with my previous post. The angle drive, nylon cartridge and drive gear should come out as one connected unit upon removal. The wobble originates from the complete unit, incl lower small gear, not being fully engaged with the larger drive gear on the gearbox main shaft. Now I have a couple of questions: what actually holds the small drive gear onto the angle drive shaft? It’s a flat tapered shaft on the angle drive and the corresponding slot on the small gear. What stops the small gear from dropping into the gearbox? Will the whole assy come out if the long bolt is removed or is there a risk that the small drive gear remains in the box? Last but not least, where does the small O-ring sit? Atop the angle drive brass shaft?
  10. To conclude this thread, my speedo wobble was caused by a similar issue to Andy’s While lubricating my angle drive I noticed that it moved up by 2mm thus it had quite a bit of play. That play was enough to create a gap tolerance between the angle drive taper shaft flat and the speedo gear in the box when the drive is at the upper end of play. A simple temporary rubber band solution to hold the drive in for a test drive produced a steady speedo needle. Nice. Next is to devise a more permanent solution to hold the bugger down at all times while still allowing it to rotate a bit as it’s intended.
  11. Came across my old SLR camera during Christmas and took a few shots of the esprit with the new tire decals. Captures the stance of the Esprit nicely. Can’t wait to get rid of the black ducts when the car goes for a respray in 2019. White body and black satin bumpers, period correct. Happy Holiday and a great start into the New Year to you all!
  12. Gosh. With the acceleration pumps blocked that way she must have been a terrible stumble to drive... good that you are getting to it.
  13. Got it Dave. I made an external adapter ring for mine to be able to set back the (longer) led bulp and compensate for its extra length, then I used one of the existing external screw/screw holes to secure it in place. Worked well. Could be a workaround for you. I did not want to disturb the tach internals.
  14. You are right Dave. My bad. I didn’t disassemble my tach as there was no reason to do so. Just cleaned up the front glas. Forgot that actually. Sigh. Looking at yours, the only thing that seems to hold the insides in are these bolt plastic sleeves, one is loose, the other is tight. Work it gently, there must be a way. No additional screw under that sticker I assume?
  15. As long as you have the glass and bezel off at the front as well as all the screws out at the back, it should slide out. Didn’t have any issues with mine. Don’t know if the pic helps but that’s how the tach looks like when it’s out
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