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Everything posted by Gis

  1. Harry on his way back to the UK. Nearly flat out..
  2. Good luck with the rebuild Fabian, if you have the carbs apart again, check the one -way valves in the accelerator pump covers. Make sure they move freely when you press down on the spring loaded ball with a needle. I had one of them blocked with fuel deposits and it caused a stumble.
  3. An alternative could be to use green LEDs to get the same effect and better visibility.
  4. If you refer to the A pillar inner trim, yes, that one just pops off (pull them straight toward the center if the windscreen) but only if you remove the upper front cross trim (the bit that holds the mirror) and the upper door trim iirc. Not difficult to do, a couple of screws, peel back the door seals to reveal the screws for the upper door trim, the other screws are visible on the inside. Door adjustments is per body mounted plate as Dave has pointed out.
  5. Did you undo the screws (and nuts) of the fuse boxes as well? Once all is loose and screws removed, there’s a bit of persuasion needed. I would not call it force, just wiggle it out. At least that’s how it worked with my glove box.
  6. Yes, it’s the same app I’m using. There is an iOS version Dave. The tension increases on the belt as the engine warms and expands. That’s how the flutter disappears. With a cold engine at startup the flutter is possibly a combination of (too) low tension and harmonics at a certain rpm level. My blue belt still exhibits a very slight flutter at times only in the first few minutes after startup in the 1800-2000 rpm range. I should probably tighten it a tiny bit more, But it’s nothing that really bothers me. I always make it a point to let her idle until the water temp comes up, usually 7-8 minutes before I drive off. Can’t rush the old gal...
  7. Since a proper borroughs gage is unobtainium here, I apply the gates carbon drive app. I find it useful, consistent and reliable. I applied the krikit gauge as a backup
  8. People are usually guarded with advice when it comes to these issues since there are many variables (type of belt, ambient temp, condition of tensioner etc). For me, If it flutters, I’d tighten it. I think every belt stretches to some degree after initial install. I’d go a little at the time (1/4 - 1/2 turn for example) measure the frequency and document it. You’ll probably notice that the flutter will move up the rpm range with each tightening itineration until it disappears. If it whines when the engine is at operating temp, you’re too far and you can roll it back. If you do this systematically and in small steps, you’ll be safe.
  9. Yes, that’s correct. Original pre 85 dampers are nla. I’ve taken the post 85 dampers and removed the spring platforms. A small workshop closeby parted them off on a lathe. Works for my 83 LTE. Either that or aftermarket dampers, those are the choices.
  10. Gis

    New big fat Esprit

    It’s a pretty mad but it seems to be a form follows function type of approach. That said, Elon’s S1 prop certainly had an influence on it.
  11. Origami not oregano obviously damn autocorrect
  12. I had my glove box off recently and on a TE it’s like an oregano piece that’s kinda folded into place. Not sure if the S2 type is the same. It’s not a box as such but more like a folded sheet. Right hand attaches to the fuse boxes and the front and back lips are held in place by 3 screws each iirc. So on a TE it can certainly be post mounted.
  13. The conclusion to this thread is that I had a slave cylinder pushrod with incorrect length in my car (PO...). 160mm instead of 134mm. This in turn changed the hydraulics-fork-release bearing kinematics, leading to a bearing failure as described in: changed everything to the correct parts and settings and clutch is fine.
  14. Thanks. Hope it works on a Long drive too. Hope you get yours sorted soon too. @dsvitesse1, Harry, thanks. Good to know
  15. Here’s an update. Installed all the gear around the box. With the order I placed for a new clutch I also ordered a few more bits as backup to the hydraulic system. For some reason (intuition maybe) I also ordered a new slave pushrod. Guess what? The new one is a whopping 1” shorter than the one I had in my car... as a consequence, my old release bearing has been literally squashed to death... I was always wondering why I could not get to 22mm exposed thread at the fork without strange noises from the back. This is the reason. I was running at 16mm since I bought the car, changed clutch when I did the belts 1.5 years ago. This was a failure waiting to happen. Never looked at the hydraulics other then bleed them. I really wonder where that long rod came from. Shoddy maintenance most likely. Well, the new setup is now in and seems to work fine, 22mm exposed thread, no strange noises, no juddering. Clutch feels normal. Next is an extended drive to confirm it. Steve, perhaps you wanna check the length of your pushrod too and tick that box.
  16. Yes, it might just be the angle the picture was taken. Judder is not good. It means that the release bearing is off centre. Which will likely lead to its failure. I took the box off yesterday and what if found was very similar to your case. A cracked release bearing. I had juddering too. My prime suspect is the pivot ball point and corresponding contact face on the fork. I had wear on both. There is also wear on both fork ends where the release bearing sits. Probably normal. I then installed the new clutch (different type with rounded fingers and flat bearing face), new release bearing with new clips and cleaned up the whole system. Moving the fork up and down, I noticed that the bearing kinda slides off the fork on the extreme upper side. That did not look right. That said, this is on the fully extended max position. I doubt that the fork ever reaches that position in normal service life. With 19mm push on the slave side and a reduction lever (fork) in between the max bearing movement in input shaft direction is probably 12-14mm max. Anyway to make it short, my prime suspects on my car are the pivot ball and fork for now. The fork is nla unfortunately (unless somebody in this forum knows a source), the pivot ball is available. Might have to swop those next or find a way to work the problem if the judder comes back. Will keep you posted.
  17. Steve, I wonder how do you get so much travel/throw at your slave pushrod? Looking at the OEM master and slave setup in our cars (master 5/8” bore, slave 7/8” bore), the fluid volumes and a (measured) full master stroke of about 37mm, this translates to a maximum stroke of about 19mm at the slave. This is also what Steve/SJ refers to I Guess. Is your master cylinder different with a larger bore and/or delivering more volume? That might have contributed to your issue, overextending the pressure plate diaphragm fingers and even getting them to the point of contact with the friction plate centre hub. The friction plate hub can be seen in your photo and the fingers are wedged in between the hub and the release bearing.
  18. Good luck with your next steps btw. Hope it works out for you.
  19. Thanks Steve. I have a similar issue but it might be caused by something else. I had a perfectly good 2 year old clutch until a couple of weeks ago. My symptoms started with early clutch engagement and got progressively worse with pedal judder and difficulties to engage gears, sometimes. I initially put it down to a contaminated clutch friction plate (leaking main crank oil seal) so I opted to take the box off, change the seal, clean the flywheel and pressure plate and replace the friction plate with a new one. Turned out that friction plate didn’t look contaminated. Swopped it nevertheless and cleaned flywheel and pressure plate. All that done, the clutch worked normally for a very short time, 10 minutes into the first test drive all the problems suddenly reappeared. It felt as if something suddenly went out of alignment. Just barely managed to limp home. Current state now: The clutch separates ok without the engine running. All gears engage cleanly. When the engine turns, I can now hear mechanical noises from the clutch pressure plate, especially when the clutch pedal is depressed. Gear engagement no longer possible with engine running. Stroboscope doesn’t show any obvious misalignment of the release bearing vs the fingers. I now suspect a failed pressure plate or a failed release bearing. Both of which looked ok when I had the box off. So my next step is to take the box off again and replace the whole clutch assy for a new set with the later curved fingers (current set has flat fingers) and corresponding release bearing. My input shaft looks ok, the spigot bearing is in place and so is the nylatron ring and hardened sleeve. The input shaft circlip and spring is in place and can be felt when pressing the input shaft backwards. The input shaft has some angular play with the box off which I assume is normal. The clutch fork has a large amount play as said before so I’m gone check on that and replace the pivot pin on it and check for excessive wear on the clutch fork pivot ball and replace it if necessary. Flywheel looked good and clean when I had it off. All actuating hydraulics are correct and fully bled. So box off again and new, complete clutch assy in is next, keeping my fingers crossed that this will resolve the issue. It feels like a wild goose chase for now. The effort involved to get the box off is a pita but has to be done. Will keep you posted. Comments and views welcome, as always. We live and learn..
  20. Steve, what was the cause and final resolution of your clutch issue then? I experience a similar issue of the release bearing being suspect of centre and causing clutch release issues and judder. My fork has excessive play too, seems too much. It’s perfectly normal at times but suddenly goes into judder and incomplete release. It’s a fairly new clutch (2 years old) and worked perfectly until a couple of weeks ago. Had the box off verified nylatron washer and spigot bearing in place. So your findings might give me some good clues and where to look next.
  21. Have you looked at the door internals top slider mounting screws yet? The two nuts atop the window motor influence the position of the slider assy and influence opening and closing angles. Since you mentioned the door being in pieces that might have been set incorrectly. You could just loosen the 2 nuts and see if that allows you to close the door correctly that way. Just an idea
  22. Thanks Pete. @dsvitesse1 Harry, as the gearbox guru, what’s do you think is the best recommendation for the clutch side splines?
  23. I do drive the car regularly and it developed during the driving recently, not at startup. Well, the question remains, grease the clutch side splines or not?
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