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Everything posted by Gis

  1. Mine is the same as Andy’s and Fabian’s. The spring fouls the bracket. I put a spring on the main spring to pull it clear of the contact area.
  2. Sounds more like a contact issue within the stalk to me. Disassemble and give it a clean?
  3. Brackets are from a local hardware store and modified. The thin neodymium magnets are glued on with loctite 638. 2 layers of shrink tube provide some protection against the elements since they can corrode.
  4. Here’s the setup on the inner CV joint. Works well. Love the steady needle 😀
  5. I changed the complete cable inner and outer Christian. It improved it a bit but didn’t cure it. Greasing also didn’t make a difference.
  6. That’s exactly the same hall sensor I’m using. I weatherproofed mine a bit more with shrink tape. How long have you been running this setup Thomas? Any feedback on reliability?
  7. I’ll post some pictures of the sensor setup in the back as soon as I find some time to crawl under it again. As outlined in the post; best would be a tone ring + passive sensor setup. The inboard brakes don’t make that easy. I bought a spare rear disk to experiment with to find a more sturdy solution. The current setup works fine for now.
  8. Purists look away, this is a restomod. I’ve been struggling with a bouncy speedo needle for some years now. Managed to improve it a bit over time but never managed to fully get rid of it. During that time I’ve changed the speedo cable, cleaned up the speedo and re-sleeved the angle drive and used a bracket to hold it down into the gearbox, greased the whole system etc etc. Nothing really worked that well and the bounce still resurfaced. The source of the bounce is either the angle drive (NLA) the pin gear that connects to the angle drive or the drive gear that sits on the end of the main shaft in the back of the box. Possibly a combination of all three. So the options were to pull the box find and change the gears (expensive option) or look elsewhere to bypass the box. I just couldn’t stand the bounce any longer, the one instrument we always look at. It was time to deal with it. So in comes the Dakota digital electronic to mechanical cable drive (ECD-200BT). For a signal source I created 6 simple small brackets that attach to the gearbox side of the driveshaft using the drive shaft screws. Each of these brackets has a small magnet glued atop. The sensor is attached atop via a bracket to the frame. The inboard brakes obviously don’t make things easy here. Using a powered 3 wire hall type sensor allows for a relatively large gap (6-10mm) to the magnets. This is needed since the engine/gearbox combo sits on rubber mounts and might move relative to the frame. So it’s 6 pulses per wheel rotation, the ECD needs a ppm (pulses per mile) baseline and that was approx 4720 ppm with my current tire size. Setup is done via Bluetooth and an app. Dead easy. Installation of the unit was the usual combo of lotus yoga and scratches since it involved digging into the binnacle and laying new cables and relays etc but proved well worth it. A test drive was needed to verify and slight adjust the ppm (using a GPS speed app and the DD app again). My wife was doing the calibration while I was driving 🙂. So now I have accurate speed and a rock steady needle. Love it, Real happy with that. This solution also allows for flexibility and recalibration to different tire sizes. A technically better solution would be to use a tone ring as a reluctor and a passive 2 wire sensor but that would mean that the gap between sensor and reluctor is really small (<1mm) so it will not be possible to hang the sensor off the frame. I’m also thinking of using the brake disk itself as a reluctor and machine shallow grooves into the circumference and then mount the passive sensor off some of the screws that hold the gearbox to the engine. It would require a custom bracket but seems possible. Might go for that at some stage. That would be speedo 3.0 the ECD is a really well build unit, cost is 330 USD, the Ford clip-on cable works well with a few simple modifications to fit it to the smiths speedo. Hall sensor, brackets and magnets are a few quid only. should I ever want to go back to the original setup it’ll only take the effort to reconnect the old cable on both ends, so fully reversible.
  9. Brilliant car Paul! Welcome to the forum.
  10. Have a good start of the week folks.
  11. Same here. About 55 on the krikit. I use the frequency app as the main setting tool and the krikit as a backup to double check the tension.
  12. One more. Funky colors.
  13. The white wedge, as seen through an SLR lens.
  14. It’s a frame rate kinda thing buddsy. At a high rate, everything looks like a homemade video. You can adjust that in the tv settings. Turn off the true motion or alike setting. You want to get down to 24fps ideally, then things look as they should. OLED is the way to go. LG makes them for a number of brands, Sony and Panasonic is among them. We got a 65” Panasonic OLED 4K. It’s stunning quality and highly recommended.
  15. @Escape it’s back on Catawiki Filip, you can have another go at it...
  16. A few recent pictures from the pain shop. Old rivals with contrasting colors & shapes.
  17. To my understanding, the transmission should come complete with the hubs.
  18. Thanks Steve. Yes it is the Esso Mobile Pegasus. It’s a bit of a reference to old days. Besides the Union Jack that’s the only ‘non standard’ item in the car. The yellow looked ok in photos only. In reality it was a poor paint job, a non-lotus color and with incorrect color coded bumpers. It was pretty awful close up. So in essence, I’m really happy with the new look. The general public reactions also confirms it.
  19. Thanks Henry. If that ever happens again, make sure you look me up mate.
  20. Here’s an update on my car 😁 I really like the new color.
  21. Rare 610E on fleabay now
  22. Actually they were not canned Barry. Only by Lotus. The Eterne became the AM Rapide and the Esprit looks like today’s Huracan. They took the core of the design as their own. As they say, copies are the best form of flattery. Bloody shame though. Wasted opportunity with some real leading designs...
  23. Agree, they looked really good and distinctive. To me the Evija, while spectacular, is too far out designwise, hope the new 131 type is more grounded, especially so if they call it Esprit. Wouldn’t like to see an Evija ‘light’... the cars shown on the autocar cover leave me cold, tbh.
  24. Welcome to the forum Ross. Cool cars and a good story. Seen you on Instagram as well, you put that turbo to good use recently👌. Good to have you on TLF.
  25. Here’s the info on the led relay box of the relay that I installed recently. That should point you in the correct direction. Look up the cable colors in the lotus electrical diagram and connect them accordingly. Bear in mind that some led relays are sensitive to RF interference. Mine was working fine at idle but started to misbehave at higher rpm. I had to swop it for a different type. The connections X, L and P were the same.
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