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Gis

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Everything posted by Gis

  1. Alternatively, a regular application of RainX works too. I hardly ever use the wipers since they are fairly slow anyway. The repellent does a good job, even in heavy downpours. I’d assume if that works here in The Far East with monsoon rains, it should work in the UK too 🙂.
  2. 😀we were early at the carpark so it was a good opportunity for some photos Michael. About 15 cars I’d say. All makes, some younger, some older. We had a biker with a pillion rider who took photos on the road. Roads were not too busy on a Sunday morning with partial lockdown still in place. https://www.classiccarclubsg.com/
  3. Last weekend Singapore National Day outing with the classic car club folks. The old gal still looks good and she’s in good shape. Timeless lack of curves.
  4. In other words, incorrect slave length adjustment and pushing the release bearing in too far/hard over a period of time, will eventually overcome the weld points of the bearing housing.
  5. I had a similar issue some years ago Gordon. Cracked release bearing housing. It was caused by an incorrect pushrod (too long). Must have been changed by a PO for reasons unknown. That stuffed up the kinematics and overloaded the bearing housing over time. Especially so with the correct slave cylinder length adjustment setting as recommended in the service notes. It manifested in distinct shuddering on the clutch pedal before it eventually let go. Swopped the part for the correct one, replaced the complete clutch and release bearing, issue resolved.
  6. On second look, fully agree with Steve. No connection to the plenum. Stuffs up your pressure regulator. There are typically 2 small connection points on the plenum,. One is right next to the pressure regulator (from below) and the other is at the front of the plenum (cambelt side).
  7. It’s easy to check what that flap does. Start the engine, control the throttle from the engine bay, rev it and observe the function of that vacuum solenoid and connected flap.
  8. This is a US spec car with an air pump at the back. The vacuum solenoid seems to operate a flap by the looks of it. Is that solenoid connected and operating? Unsure if that’s is related to your issues. I’d look to the fuel delivery system first, fuel pump, pressure regulator and then carbs.
  9. Good that you have some progress here Paul. The rod adjustment is guided by the brake pedal position. You want it to be in line with the other pedals. You’re lucky that you have Gary close by. When I started out with my TE some years ago I contemplated flying him to Singapore a few times 😂
  10. I run the same setup with wilwood (front) and PNM (rear) on my turbo. It works perfectly. Huge performance upgrade vs original. I think we need more details here. Does the pedal fall through, chances are you have a leak somewhere. This is visible and can be traced. If the pedal goes hard without braking performance, chances are you have a vacuum or booster leak. The vacuum is pulled in your booster through the engine. The booster (aka servo) provides approx 80% of your brake power. No vacuum or a booster leak will feel like ‘no brakes’.
  11. I’d probably go with an Essex theme here. I’m not that fond of the downward crease and flap on the rear sides. It makes the car look heavy and complicates the whole side profile unnecessarily. I’d much prefer the clean side lines and shapes of a T50 for example. In the highly unlikely event of ever owning an Emira, I’d try to cover that crease with a dark foil to make it less obvious. Ultimately everyone will have an own view of course. It was a great launch, very enjoyable and well done in my view. 👍👍👍
  12. I thought Colin Chapman’s silver turbo esprit looked awesome in the Emira launch😀.
  13. Mine is the same as Andy’s and Fabian’s. The spring fouls the bracket. I put a spring on the main spring to pull it clear of the contact area.
  14. Sounds more like a contact issue within the stalk to me. Disassemble and give it a clean?
  15. Brackets are from a local hardware store and modified. The thin neodymium magnets are glued on with loctite 638. 2 layers of shrink tube provide some protection against the elements since they can corrode.
  16. Here’s the setup on the inner CV joint. Works well. Love the steady needle 😀
  17. I changed the complete cable inner and outer Christian. It improved it a bit but didn’t cure it. Greasing also didn’t make a difference.
  18. That’s exactly the same hall sensor I’m using. I weatherproofed mine a bit more with shrink tape. How long have you been running this setup Thomas? Any feedback on reliability?
  19. I’ll post some pictures of the sensor setup in the back as soon as I find some time to crawl under it again. As outlined in the post; best would be a tone ring + passive sensor setup. The inboard brakes don’t make that easy. I bought a spare rear disk to experiment with to find a more sturdy solution. The current setup works fine for now.
  20. Purists look away, this is a restomod. I’ve been struggling with a bouncy speedo needle for some years now. Managed to improve it a bit over time but never managed to fully get rid of it. During that time I’ve changed the speedo cable, cleaned up the speedo and re-sleeved the angle drive and used a bracket to hold it down into the gearbox, greased the whole system etc etc. Nothing really worked that well and the bounce still resurfaced. The source of the bounce is either the angle drive (NLA) the pin gear that connects to the angle drive or the drive gear that sits on the end of the main shaft in the back of the box. Possibly a combination of all three. So the options were to pull the box find and change the gears (expensive option) or look elsewhere to bypass the box. I just couldn’t stand the bounce any longer, the one instrument we always look at. It was time to deal with it. So in comes the Dakota digital electronic to mechanical cable drive (ECD-200BT). For a signal source I created 6 simple small brackets that attach to the gearbox side of the driveshaft using the drive shaft screws. Each of these brackets has a small magnet glued atop. The sensor is attached atop via a bracket to the frame. The inboard brakes obviously don’t make things easy here. Using a powered 3 wire hall type sensor allows for a relatively large gap (6-10mm) to the magnets. This is needed since the engine/gearbox combo sits on rubber mounts and might move relative to the frame. So it’s 6 pulses per wheel rotation, the ECD needs a ppm (pulses per mile) baseline and that was approx 4720 ppm with my current tire size. Setup is done via Bluetooth and an app. Dead easy. Installation of the unit was the usual combo of lotus yoga and scratches since it involved digging into the binnacle and laying new cables and relays etc but proved well worth it. A test drive was needed to verify and slight adjust the ppm (using a GPS speed app and the DD app again). My wife was doing the calibration while I was driving 🙂. So now I have accurate speed and a rock steady needle. Love it, Real happy with that. This solution also allows for flexibility and recalibration to different tire sizes. A technically better solution would be to use a tone ring as a reluctor and a passive 2 wire sensor but that would mean that the gap between sensor and reluctor is really small (<1mm) so it will not be possible to hang the sensor off the frame. I’m also thinking of using the brake disk itself as a reluctor and machine shallow grooves into the circumference and then mount the passive sensor off some of the screws that hold the gearbox to the engine. It would require a custom bracket but seems possible. Might go for that at some stage. That would be speedo 3.0 the ECD is a really well build unit, cost is 330 USD, the Ford clip-on cable works well with a few simple modifications to fit it to the smiths speedo. Hall sensor, brackets and magnets are a few quid only. should I ever want to go back to the original setup it’ll only take the effort to reconnect the old cable on both ends, so fully reversible.
  21. Brilliant car Paul! Welcome to the forum.
  22. Have a good start of the week folks.
  23. Same here. About 55 on the krikit. I use the frequency app as the main setting tool and the krikit as a backup to double check the tension.
  24. One more. Funky colors.
  25. The white wedge, as seen through an SLR lens.
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