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Gis

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  1. I can imagine this to be tough to get repaired in SEA. There’s no cottage industry for repairs like this unlike in the UK. Perhaps you have a better chance in Malaysia but in Singapore it’s virtually impossible to find a repair service Eric. My original servo in my 83 turbo is long gone. Some PO chucked it. I have a (presumably) Camry servo in it and it works fine for now. A while ago I bought a more correct, new unit from PNM but I have not fitted it yet. Came at a price though. I think I paid near 200£ for it iirc. For peace of mind I added an electric vacuum pump and a small reserve tank to my setup. Great braking now including backup. Good mod in my view.

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  2. Hi Lou, the vacuum ‘motor’ as you call it is actually a vacuum actuator. It operates on vacuum being pulled from the running engine. The vacuum is pulled through the black hose that is attached to it in your last picture. You should check if the actuator is still operational. They are simple diaphragm devices but over time the rubber diaphragms tend to dry out, crack and don’t work. If yours is still good, it will pull the long rod in when vacuum is pulled via the engine. The rod end is attached to the lever in the centre of your picture 2. This is done with a small pin and a safety clip. To make a long story short, once we have a vacuum pulled (engine running) the actuator will pull the large, external flap shut and open the internal, smaller, recirculating flap. Obviously this is also depending on your right turnknob position in the centre console. That knob controls vacuum distribution to the actuator. You can find all the parts, operating modes and assy instructions in the workshop manual. The actuator is spring loaded. With the engine off (no vacuum available) the large external flap is open by default to the best of my knowledge. I’ve never seen a grey/bluish cap in there btw. 

  3. You’re a magician Gary. For us mortals it’s a PITA to get in there. But I agree, for the hose clips there’s a chance with a tiny ratchet tool from the front. I tried accessing the AC condenser fittings through the opening. Impossible to put a spanner on them, so I lowered the whole cassette. That worked. Comes with intimate knowledge of all the screws that hold both the spoiler and the cassette up, many of them accessible by feel only and barely within reach (with mandatory skin graft) Felt a bit like a rectal exam, typical lotus jobs, you gotta love them. 😅

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  4. Getting the grille out of the way doesn’t leave much space to work the clips. Tough to get your hands in there, let alone with tools. Still a major access problem to do the job properly. I’d remove the undertray, spoiler and grille, then lower the whole cassette gradually with thread bars in the back most position until you have sufficient access. Works well on an S3T with all hoses left in place and should be possible on an SE as well since the assembly of parts is very similar. 

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  5. Here is what I typically use
    Motor oil: 10W60 fully synthetic, castrol, redline or others
    gearbox oil: Redline MT90 or equivalent 
    Spark plugs: NGK BPR6ES
    brake and clutch fluid: Dot 4 
    Trunnion fluid: Redline fully synthetic super light shockproof gear oil 75W90 🙂
    Coolant: Any quality coolant suitable for aluminium engines, Evans waterless coolant could also be a good option.

  6. To add to this thread, it’s possible to remove the old condenser on G cars without draining coolant or oil. I dropped the radiator cassette using threaded bar in the middle position of the cassette. Removed the mid cassette screw, inserted the long bar, then removed the other screws and gradually lowered the cassette until I had sufficient clearance to get the old condenser out. My coolant hoses had sufficient flex to accommodate it. The size of the old condenser is 89x26x4.5cm. The new parallel flow unit from CBS is 48x25x3cm. There is a 1/2 gap between the condenser and the radiator (same as the old setup) I used the cable tie method from CBS to secure it and added a holding bracket as a backup. 

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  7. Gordon, have you checked the condition of the two flap vacuum solenoids? They might look ok from the outside but they have a diaphragm in them that may be dried out and cracked. Both of mine were gone although they looked fine. They are difficult to find & replace. Did the PO put in new AC hoses or are you still running with the old set? Old R12 hoses are also prone to cracks and leaks after 40 years.. Old compressor or new one? As far as PAG oil is concerned, there isn’t any precise volume info available, to the best of my knowledge. When I converted my system (new 134a compressor, new hoses, new modern evaporator) I measured what came out of the old hoses and took an educated guess. There might be some info on the compressor label but even then you don’t know how much you have spread in the rest of the system. Look up the existing threads on R12 to 134a conversion in our forum. There is some good information in there. 

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  8. Thanks mate. Yes, it’s an effort to get to the evaporator since it’s buried deep below, to pull the hoses wasn’t as bad, surprisingly. Worst part there was to work them around the light pod lift levers on the passenger side. All tight in there. Good news is that one learns the car and how the systems work and where they are. In summary, width proper preparation and mindset, it’s doable and rewarding. The fat connector at the A pillar is the antenna plug for the Panasonic 610. Super piece of kit, looks great and sounds great too 😀

  9. Here’s a flavour of the job.. that was in 2020, by looking at the pictures one can tell it was a lot of fun. The mantra was, disassemble, document, compare with electrical diagram and label on the way in. Then cleanup and reconnect on the way out. I must say that my original loom was mostly in good shape and original, few PO mods to clean up. I have since updated all the relays and the fuses to modern equivalents too. 

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  10. Thanks guys. Yes that’s the size I found as well @drdoom. It’s also in line with what @Andyww posted in a different A/C thread. About 50cm across and not much taller than 25 cm. I found a modern parallel flow unit with car builders in the UK. Has the #6 and #8 connections. I have replaced all old parts already more then a year ago. New R134 compressor from SJ, all new hoses and modern standard connectors. Put in a compact, new aftermarket evaporator. The old evaporator was mutilated beyond rescue and leaking badly. Needless to say it was a major operation to pull the old hoses and the evaporator. Whole dash had to come out, major work. My car still had the original hoses from 1983, neatly labelled with dates 🙂. Took me a few days to get it all sorted. At the same time, it was a good opportunity to clean up the cable tree and the electrics. Νο issues with fans and relays, the new setup works the same way as the old one @thebartman, fans come on when the AC is switched on. I only kept the old condenser but that, as it turns out, was also slowly leaking. New setup works fine for about 6 months until the gas runs low. So it’s time to address that last, leaky component.

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