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About #84

  • Birthday 25/11/1973

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  • Name
    Andreas Möller
  • Car
    Lotus Evora S -11
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  1. Interesting with the gear levers. You have to report how it feels & works.
  2. That is quite a different spec of those Nitrons, I guess they are not the Hofmanns Race 46's. Or? If not, the relation between compression and rebound damping is different and probably the characteristics in total. If you haven't elaborated on the settings yet, I recommend you to bring proper floor jack to the next track day. I lift in the rear lifting point and adjust both front and rear on that side at the same time. Super quick. And write notes. If the car feels balanced as it is, just change both F/R 2 steps at the time, then when you do not find more improvement, start split the settings apart F/R. If it is like in my case, I did it the other way around, found a F/R balance that worked, then shifted them both to stiffer 2 steps each time. Followed by fine tuning.
  3. @Friss I did set it up with the same ride height as I had with original Bilstein's, which is close to nominal 125/147. With the race wheels I end up at 120/137 with new tyres @ 2,2 bar and 75 % fuel. No driver. On track I found a significant improvement in chassi control when I stiffened up. My starting point was -12/-10, but it does not work at all. The rear needs to be 1-2 clicks softer than front with my 900/1100 springs. My last dry track day performed best at -5/-6, but felt better with -6/-7. It started to rain slightly, so I do not know if it was faster a click softer. In wet I have to keep the relation F/R and can soften up a click or two. With rear ARB disconnected one can shift to the same setting F/R - in wet and with my spring ratios. What do you run?
  4. @Bruss - So with full tank and without you it means 1349 kg (752 g / liter). Your standard 19/20 are 1,5 kg lighter than my standard 18/19, but I guess the tyre dimensions evens out most of it. Mine with full tank and floor + diffusor + Head unit mounted then ends up at 1404 kg, which is 55 kg up. It sounds like a lot on seats, HiFi and brake discs. If it is right, must add more to my to list than just the brake discs ... FYI, I checked the Alpine data sheets I have downloaded: The head unit is 2,9 kg The nav unit is 265 g The sound processor is 345 g The original sub-woofer is only 800 something gram and the amplifier is just a few hundred grams.
  5. I take out the engine cover on track days - to let the heat out. Otherwise I have it on for the same reason as Bibs.
  6. Good questions. I started a bit late to take notes on the weight difference of all components I've changed, but these are the min changes: Item Weight [kg] Measured 1381 Engine bay floor + diffusor + HiFi head unit (Guess) +5 40 % fuel +18 Standard wheels +10 New tyres +1 Standard battery +13,4 Standard speaker system -1,6 Standard exhaust system (Guess) +5 Standard air intake (Guess) +1 Standard vs Nitron suspension (incl some screws) 8,9 Removing wheel spacers and longer screws -0,7 Sum 1441 So, that is 4 kg from the listed 1437 kg (Right?), which is reasonable for the navigation and reverse camera + some trim options. @Bruss What have you done to remove that much weight?
  7. Yes. Thanks for reminding me to share that part. This was with original non-adjustable drop links. The picture of the scale is without me (obviously since I'm taking the picture :)) and with 60 % fuel. With race wheels and full tank it stops at 1395 kg. And then I attach the full protocol with me in the car. We played a little bit with the front springs and adjusted the rings on the damper tube to fine tune the corner weight. The result is surprisingly good according to the guy who did it.
  8. So, what's next. Well, I thought I finished a very nice and weight efficient HiFi upgrade, but as soon as I started the engine I realized the S/N ratio was terrible and something with the grounding isn't right. So, lets park that topic for now. I've done two track days within 11 days and elaborated a lot with chassi settings with kind of good results. This is it: Since I found the standard chassi setup to be very nice but quite incapable of producing good lap times I considered a lot of options last summer. I finally, but a bit late, decided for the Hofmanns Nitron Race 46 kit. What I mean with a bit late is that I got the coil overs in September and it then was raining for several weeks and I didn't fit them until this spring. First of all I must say the Nitron's are just gorgeous. The finish is amazing and the color scheme is so nice. I know, who cares, but I cannot resist good looking performance parts. Sorry. Next thing worth mentioning is the weight difference. Item Front Rear Original 5070 g 5800 g Nitron 3220 g 3043 g Nitron corrected (helpers + spacers) 3461 g 3043 g Difference 1609 g 2757 g So, all in all there is a weight reduction of 8732 g. To that one can add that I replaced some screws, spacers and washers with at least 150 g. What I went for was the Nitron 1-way kit both for installation convenience, adjustment efficiency and since I didn't expect to play around that much with all the settings - and recommendation. After some discussions I went for the most race oriented 900 F / 1100 R lbs/in springs. Below you find a few pictures of the work. The front axis upper spring mount looked a bit dull, so I glass blastered them and varnished them in two layers to keep them nice looking. I considered to make new mounts since the upper spring mount is redundant with aftermarket coil overs. You do only need the upper attachment hole for the damper. Well, time... I also started to replace all floor screws that have started to rust and to dig into the aluminium sheet with shorter stainless steel ones (hole drilled!) with plastic washers. I know one can buy those washers, but there is a certain feeling to make them by yourself 😇
  9. I urgently need a right front brake disc as a temporary solution. It has to survive a track day, but other than that no requirements. I need it in my hand (or on my car ...) no later than 2:nd of September in Sweden.
  10. With the Hofmann's spec'd Nitron 1-way you have the adjustment on the top and at least on the Evora, when I lift the car on the rear lift point on one side, I can reach both front and rear adjustment on that side. It take 5 minutes to quick-adjust all four corners on track.
  11. A lot of things have been going on with the car the last weeks, but let's start with two of the least complicated. To speed up the work in general and at trackdays especially, I made this lift bar for the rear end. A bit overkill, but it is black galvanized and I made a 30 mm hole punch to make holes in the rubber mat for the washers for the engine bay under tray Yes, I know, I should clean it from glue rests ... Just so boring. Then it was time for track day yesterday and since they promised rain I had to make the call to fit new rear tyres. It was 3 and a half hour drive, so it was about getting home as well. I have considered to try another brand/type for a while and had almost decided for Yokohama A052, but was a bit uncertain about which sizes that would fit. So, since there was no time to order any other tyres and since I had two new Kumho Ecsta V700/70A K91 laying on the shelf, it was and easy and probably the best choice.
  12. I realized that I missed the Powerflex Anti Roll Bar (ARB) bushings in my summary and that the rear toe wasn't actually changed last time. We ran out of time and the difference vs. Hofmanns recommended 0,33 (1,5 mm per side) and the 0,25 in total toe isn't that big. So, revised table: So, I went for the hardest power flex bushings, since I wanted the feeling as firm as possible - and I couldn't really see that i should harm the comfort that much. I think I was right. It was just time and laziness that stopped me from swapping all around last season. Rear is straight forward to change, while front is not. I expected the 2 pillar lift in my workshop to be available later last season, but off course it didn't happen. Too many projects.. Impression? Well, honestly I couldn't feel much difference when just shifting on the rear ARB. On the front yes, but on the other hand I also stiffened up the springs+dampers a lot.
  13. @TdM Going from 1 to 1,5 in negative camber on the front wheels, made a substantial difference in how sensitive it is to worn roads. It definitely wanders and I have to be alert to keep it going as intended. I normally only drive it half an hour / 45 km to work - and back - and then it is fine. Going to a trackway on semi-slicks is awkward anyway 😉 @dogtag114 I made five trackdays on the first setting, two each on the following two settings and so far one on the more aggressive setting. In total, up to beginning of last season I drove the car less than 10 000 km and on the last two settings less than 5 000 km and I haven't seen any extreme tyre wears. The rear left one have currently 1,5/1-ish/1-ish/1,7 in thread depth in its four grooves and the inner section is chamfered the last 2 cm's - which is typical when you scrub the inner shoulder of the inner tyre while cornering.
  14. And now to the ongoing modifications. I thought I could reach decent performance on track just by elaborating on the wheel angles. That proved to be really wrong. I have no direct comparison between the first wheel alignment and before it, but the 2017 setting didn't save the tyres, so I tried to maximize the camber in 2020 and gained - NOTHING. At least not on the stop watch. Two comments are in place. 1. The car has been standing still for long time periods; Aug 2015 - Aug 2016, Sept 2017 - April 2020, so it is not easy to compare. 2. The wheel alignment guy was totally convinced that 1 deg negative camber was maximum for the front wheels. I found out later that he only played with the rearmost excenter. I searched TLF and the factory settings for inspiration while elaborating, but when I finally went for Hofmanns Nitron Race 46 (1-way) I went for Chris recommended settings, only deviation was that I couldn't get full 2,5 deg rear camber. More on the status of this in coming posts
  15. I will try to soon start describing more ongoing activities, not just historical modifications. Track day tyres is an upcoming hot topic, so lets start with my first expenses, the only ones I actually planned before buying the car and what I count as absolutely minimum if one is going to explore the limits on track. Rims: Braid Fullrace FF 8,5"x18" / 10"x18" Tyres: Kumho Ecsta V700 K61 / K91 Brake pads: Performance Friction PFC08 This is how it looked at the shake down of this new stop: Rim selection. I wanted as light and strong wheels as possible, realized that forged wheel would stretch the budget a bit too much and found the by then brand new Fullrace FF series from Braid, utilizing the so called flowforging technology. With new tyres on, comparing to the standard wheels with half worn rear tyres, it saved 10 kg all around. It was a pleasure to deal with Braid and their Swedish distributor, Mocomp, who supplied drawings for approval and iterated on ET etc. Tyre selection. Tricky choice. The rim supplier have worked with Kumho V70A/V700 for many years, supplying to several race series and meant it is a real racing tyre with the additional benefit of being available in various compounds. I went on K61 (Medium) front and K91 (Hard) rear on their recommendation. On my previous track day car, the Alfa 155 Q4, I never got the V700's to work, they couldn't cope with the load even in Hard compound and I finally switched to Yokohama A032R to make it work. I still cannot say how they perform on the Evora compared to any alternatives. Fact is that I gained 4,6 s on a 60-65 s lap vs the Advan Sport street tyres. I might have pushed the limits a bit more on the V700's, with that in consideration, the difference should still be >3 s a lap. The medium compound front tyres wear quicker and I blistered both of them when I explored the very limit on my 4:th track day. The rear wheels are pretty worn, but have still made 7 track days and about 2000 km commuting to the tracks. Given how the tyres looked after the first shake down on Sturup Raceway (looks like they had been attacked by a beaver high on LSD ...) it is amazing how long they have survived: Brake pad selection. The availability is bit limited. I was quite happy with yellow Pagid RS-19 on my Alfa, but were even more impressed by the Performance Friction floating discs and the service from the Swedish distributor, PEAN Sweden. I ask them for advice and ended up on the PFC08 pads. The downside according to the distributor is that they are made for endurance racing and to move the wear from the pdf to the disc. So instead of consuming three sets of pads in 24 h and have lets say 30 % left of the disc, they wear out the disc completely and reduce the pad consumption to two sets. With that said, not optimal from an economical point of view, but the friction from cold is just brutal. - That about that. Side topic. Sturup Raceway ( started as a rallycross track, mixed gravel and tarmac, then got a full tarmac circuit 1990 with a layout more like a rollercoaster than a race track. They arranged a karting race that year, with Formula A (100 cc) and Formula E (250 cc) which must have been one of the crazier races in modern history. The speeds in Formula A were not of this world. Unfortunately it was both the first and the last time and I didn't start with Fomrula A until the year later. Unfortunately, in 2015 the tarmac was still extremely coarse and it is/was not so clever to go there with 100 TW tyres. It says that they have new tarmac there today, that should be more civilized.
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