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  1. @electro_boyWell, it isn't that straight forward to retrofit a pneumatic cam-less valve train on an engine. For lab use, you can do it, but otherwise you either need to make a bespoke cylinder head from scratch, or manufacture a large number of special items. A V-engine is worse since you have to do it twice. During my 5+ years I think we received almost one conversion request today from entusiasts, or motorsport teams, even though we since the new website was launched in March 2020 explicitly stated that we didn't offer that kind of service. 🙂 The biggest challenge is that you have return pressure in the pneumatic system under the valve cover. Standstill pressure can reach 10 bar. Then there are minor issus such as that the engine oil circuit is separate from the valve train, so that all oil feed/return to the cylinder head has to be blocked. And a few other details.
  2. Suspension project recap. This is what I have tried: Nitron R1 (46 mm / 1-way)- Hofmanns 900/1100 lb/in - std front ARB 900/1100 lb/in - BWR front ARB 900/1100 lb/in - BWR front ARB and no rear ARB 600/850 lb/in - BWR front ARB Nitron CS (40 mm / 1-way) 425/625 lb/in - BWR front ARB 475/625 lb/in - BWR front ARB Nitron R1 front / Nitron CS rear 475/625 lb/in - BWR front ARB Besides all of this, I have sweeped the damper settings, from time to time worked through step 1-4 of 5 in the front BWR Anti Roll Bar stiffness, varied toe and adjusted ride height with camber following it. Since I am still in the middle of the process to develop the damper valving and sorting out other settings, I won't go into detail with that. What I can say is: Track width and ride height effects are far from sorted out Camber, especially front at 1,65 degrees, is not near being sufficient for the cornering speeds that other modern track day cars are capable of The 46 mm R1 kit is given the aggressive spring rates surprisingly comfortable until suspension droop exceeds a certain speed The 40 mm CS kit out of the box super capable for Fast Road exercises and for shaving off a second, or two, on the track day. Since I am after the ultimate lap time pace for a fully sorted out road going car, the testing and development goes on. Many lessons learned so far.
  3. I planned to post some pictures of the barge boards that were fitted after x years on a shelf in the garage, comment how well all newly manufactured components have worked and maybe write a few words about the latest and greatest in spring/damper testing and development. However, biggest change right now is not in the garage, or on the race track. No, after just over 5 years with Freevalve and developing and promoting cam-less engine technology - that story has come to an end. From today on I have taken a tiny step closer to Hethel and represents Aurobay, Volvo Cars and Geelys powertrain division. My time in between jobs had the upside of allowing 6 track days in 8 weeks, but now the focus will off course be a bit different 🙂
  4. Some tweeter details. Since the Gladen tweeter has larger diameter, its housing fitted as it was and the plastic cover had to be split so that I just used the front part of it.
  5. Some pictures of the subwoofer installation The original Alpine element has a bit odd size, so I had to make an adaptor ring. Everything is glued/sealed and the element rests on the edge of the box, but the ring was needed in order to fit the screws and to get some surface to glue on. I also added some damping on the body panels to make the car a bit more quite. As said before, the added weight was minimal.
  6. Yes, that is the trinary valve, behind the right front wheel arch cover and a very good start for trouble shooting. What I did, was to unscrew the hat on the refill valve (located in the same area) and briefly touch it to check if there is pressure, then I removed the contact to the trinary valve and checked its state with a multimeter. The compressor has no clutch (almost 100 % sure), but variable displacement from 2 % stroke upp to 100 %. You can also check if the heating works. What happened to my car was that the HVAC control panel, in front of the gear stick, gave a high pitch sound when turning on the lights. I tried to fix it, but failed. Was about to buy a new circuit board for some time, but always spent the money on other things ... Then the fan worked, air distribution worked, but heating, cooling and AC compressor engagement were random. So, earlier this year I bought a new circuit board (about 300-350 €) and suddenly everything worked. It took like 20 mintes to swap with the gear stick knob in place. If you don't sort it out I will try to dig up the trouble shooting guide I wrote with help of a friend who designs AC systems for the Automotive industry.
  7. A bit off topic, but I happened to find this site: and couldn't resist customizing my Bell MAG-1 helmet. To put an extra touch on it, I decided to re-paint it in RAL 7038 as well. The paint work as such went well, but the masking tape didn't really want to stick to the rubber, so another day I have to fix the details
  8. You definitely need a different charger/conditioner. If you only want to maintain charge during longer periods of standstill, around 1 A is sufficient. If you think you might forget to charge sometime and stand there with a flat battery, you need 5-6 A. I do definitely recommend to use a more advanced charger, such as their gold series.
  9. If I should add some comments, I think these are useful: A major HiFi upgrade doesn't have to add that much weight The subwoofer made the biggest difference; 2,4 v.s. 0,8 kg, so 1,6 kg Tweeters and mid-range was about the same. Larger magnets, but lighter structure. Then the crossovers were dropped. The aftermarket ones, from Gladen, were 360 g together The correct damping mat, a sandwich type, is relatively light All in all, my estimate is that I've added less than 2,5 kg The single most important speaker upgrade is a larger tweeter Why? Because then you can lower the crossover frequency and you get more of the "directional" sound from the dash, and not that much split between the dash and the door I was told this when I involuntarily had to change the front system in my Alfa 159 and went with a much better system with this feature. It was very obvious when installing the new on one side first and then comparing Right/Left. If you struggle to get the head unit out - unscrew the steel frame from the dash, maybe just one screw. It might be bent and hook into the head unit so that it cannot slide out after the four screws holding it to the frame have been removed Do NOT do like I did: Manufacture five sets of different extraction tools that just make you even more p***ed 🤬
  10. I have also managed to make a third trackday (three weeks in a row!) on the same track. Finally I sorted out the Harry's Laptimer app, so I got a clearer view of what is going on. All in all I am now 5,5-6 s quicker than before I started with the modifications (2015 lap times) - with the same tyre types / rims / brake pads. Relative to the week before, I reduced the lp times by nearly 2,5 s. Problem is, the quickest settings were heavily understeered and required a special, gentle turn in procedure, followed by steady rear end drift throw the turn. That consumed a bit more of the rear tyres and since the setting wasn't too responsive on steering corrections, I later found out that the front left tyre had blistered . A new tyre has arrived, so that will be fixed the coming days. The main question now is what to try next? I am leaning towards stiffer front springs. The car is relatively quick now, but difficult to drive and prone to fry the front tyres. It doesn't last for many laps before the tyres overheat. The upside is that traction is great and that I can fine tune the behaviour with a click up, or down, on the rear dampers.
  11. I sneak in a non-performance related post now, or rather a link to the Interior/electronics section. It's a different animal and maybe of more general interest.
  12. There has been many threads on various HiFi upgrades, but I haven't seen anyone utilize the full capability of the so called Imprint Module, the sound processor, so I've made a small guide in attached pdf. What it is about is to throw away the passive crossover filters, using the Imprint Module as an active crossover, send the low level signal back to the head unit as Right/Left & Tweeter/Bass and then use all 4x40 W via four high level speaker cables to power the four elements. The sound level and sound quality becomes amazingly better. I have to mention that this is not my idea. There is a local Car HiFi shop which has been around for quite some time, . The owner figured out how to dampen the doors on the Elise S1, back in the late 90's, so that decent sound quality could be achieved and he made many of those with satisfied customers. Since Koenigsegg is in the area and they have similar materials/technology in the car's body, this guy was the natural go to guy to provide a good sounding HiFi in their cars. They still use the same amp's and speaker brands, as back then. I found this guy when he had his shop next door to the local BMW dealer and I bought a new BMW E91 320d and was terribly disappointed with the speakers. So, one thing led to another. I will post some more details, but the general principle is found in the pdf. Good thing is that it is cheap and reduces weight 🙂 Bad thing is that it wasn't as straight forward as it may look. Evora alternative HiFi setup.pdf
  13. I would recommend you to place the car in level, but so that you can take a look on the gearbox from below. Remove the floor and remove the "check oil level plug" on the left side of the gearbox, in the rear end - if I remember it correctly. You might be able to stick a finger in, or take a picture with your cell phone on the oil level. It is a relatively quick operation and probably the best starting point. If the level is OK and the oil type is correct, in worst case the too low level you had for a while might have caused some damage that has generated debris that in turn have damaged the sync rings over time. I think the drain oil plug is magnetic, so next step would be to drain the oil and check the plug. If everything is fine, you could always refill the same oil again. I had a similar issue once on an Alfa 147, but that was only when going sideways with the gearstick and that was one of the cables that almost had seized due to corrosion from spilled brake fluid. Later a bearing failed from metal chips caused by gear changing issues with the bad cable.
  14. Thanks @Phaeton91! Well, I do not have the PS4S, but the older PSS. I had the PS4S on order since last September, but in March I gave up since there was yet no delivery date available on the 18" front tyres, so I switched to the PSS instead. I am very satisfied, given what I wanted to achieve. But, I do not use my street tyres on track. Maybe if it is wet, but otherwise not. They will always become a bit more noisy after absuing the edges. Last year I ran -1,5° front and -2,1° rear in camber. Now I lowered the chassi 4 mm front and 8 mm rear and didn't expect it to affect the settings that much. I was wrong, It did. Nitron recommended 3 min (0,05°) front toe out per side and neutral rear. After we were done, it appeared to be 1 min (0,017°) toe out rearper side, so that was how I ran it this track day. You can find the new results below. It is measured with just over half tank and empty car. I expect the camber settings to even out a bit when there is a driver in it, leaning everything a little bit to the left. I can see a tendency to have a bit better temperature profiles over the tyres compared to last season, which is likely to be caused by increased camber. And, I can add that at the wheel alignment we did ONLY adjust toe. Nothing else.
  15. Another track day done and the new brakes works just great. The PFC 08 pads vs those slotted discs are a bit noisy, they squeak quite a lot. I will change to the standard pads and see how they behave. Now, what I really wanted to achieve with this track day was to dial in the dampers to give great feeling (and low tyre wear) and off course to improve on the lap times. Unfortunately the data logging with Harrys lap timer and external GPS receiver didn't work at all last week and when I drove there (Ljungbyhed race track) last October with the other Nitron kit, my phone was broken. So, I have to go back to 2015 to be able to compare lap times. What I see then is and improvement of 3,5 s per lap, despite having a passenger this time and short shifting from 4:th just before 6000 rpm to 6:th for the noise limit, losing 15 km/h in top speed, but still being >5 km/h faster than I was back in 2015. The tyres are of the same type, the same rims (offset), the same brake pads and the same Lotus Motorsport silencer. Other than that I believe the BOE intake and 2bular exhaust makes up the difference in speed on the straights and chassie settings + Nitron Club sport gives an additional 0,1-0,15 G in the corners. Feeling wise it is a bit strange because I struggled with traction all last season and now that is totally gone. Instead it is a challenge to mitigate mid/late corner understeer. Overall the car drives very nicely and If i go almost full hard on the rear dampers and 3/4 soft on the front ones, the front end bites very well. The drawback with such a setup is that the front end is underdamped during hard braking and under rapid load changes, like in a high speed chicane for example. In the last session I went up to around 50 % stiffer front ARB vs the OE one and also stiffened up the front dampers to 60 % soft, which gave much better stability and turn in, while feeling a bit less grippy in the front through the corner. Lap times were reduced by nearly 2 s, so I guess it was a good move Next thing to elaborate on is ride height. Now it is lowered more in the rear than in the front.
  16. I do not know, but I first tried with ET66 to not change the overall track width that much on the rear only, but it didn't work - at least not with Braid Full Race FF 18x10. I now run with ET58 which increases the track width with 22 mm rear.
  17. I run my car with 225/45-18, respectively 265/35-18 with semi slicks on track days. The way it was ran with the 18" Team Dynamics rims that Lotus Motorsport offered for the Evora a few years back. I understood that it was the way it was set up with the Avon ZZR's. Right? What I am curious about is if anyone who currently is active in the forum have experience racing, or just seriously run the Evora on track days with this set up? My concern is twofold. The track width is heavily increased in the rear with different ET / offset to provide clearance for the lower wishbones. But the rear ride height is also dropped quite a bit (around 11 mm) due to the smaller diameter of the rear tyres. Both those changes are positive for rear end grip and traction, but have a negative effect on the front/rear balance => Understeer. All comments are welcome. In particular I am after experience with compensation in the front (lower?) or other tricks in chassi setup.
  18. DONE. Feels good. Looks good. I hope it works good as well. Let's see on Thursday. Last Thursday I managed one 15 min session, then yet another OE disc cracked.
  19. WEIGHT SAVING! I have tried to be honest down to the last washer and percentage wise there is a lot to gain in washers and screws, even if the absolute numbers are moderate. A-panels Just the panel itself is about the same weight, even if the new ones are about 150 g lighter, since there is a bit in bracket in the original one. The mud flap adds another 361 g with screws etc and the upper attachment points for the panel are shimmed with some large diameter steel washers. They weigh in at 43 g in average per side, compared to my new slightly smaller plastic washers at 6 g per side. It sums up to 542 g weight saving per side and hence 1084 g in total. Front upper coil over bracket The original one is in cast Aluminium an d looks quite nice, but have a built in upper spring mount, which is useless when using aftermarket coil overs. I have used 2 mm ultra high tensile strength sheet steel, which has a lower specific weight relative to strength than Aluminium. The weight difference for the bracket itself is massive; 350 g vs 1050 g! In top of that the thinner material means the screws can be shorter. Those who holds the bracket to the chassis are now 50 % too long and the main M12 screw was too long to fit, it collided with the upper wishbone. A quick fix standard M12 saved 22 g (25 %). It sums up to 723 g weight saving per side and hence 1446 g in total. With correct screw lengths we will end up close to 1500 g for both sides. Coil overs Now we are comparing original vs Nitron R1 vs Nitron Club Sport. The Club Sports are skinner than the R1's, so they should be bit lighter. The comparison is however a bit corrupted by different spring rates (thinner coil) and different spring lengths. On the R1's I had 200 mm (8") front springs and 125 mm (5") rear springs. The CS kit came with 150 mm (6") front and 175 mm (7") rear. Due to the longer rear springs the total weight for the rear coil overs was just a few ten grams, while the opposite reaction for the front ones meant a weight difference of over 1 kg. Original Nitron R1 Nitron CS Front 5070 3461 2366 Rear 5800 3043 3010 It sums up to 2704 g front and 2790 g rear weight saving per side and hence 11 kg in total!
  20. Half done. Front brake calipers overhauled and painted Vented "A-panels" fitted Front upper coil over bracket fitted Nitron Club Sport kit fitted Brake bells to fully floating 362 mm kit test mounted - Off for hard anodizing right now FINALLY - Made the HiFi upgrade I started with in 2020 to work A few things with mentioning are: To fit new brake caliper seals after the calipers had been painted was probably a stupid move. It appears to be logical to paint the "naked" calipers, but the paint didn't like brake fluid, nor rubber grease. Maybe it was poor quality brake caliper paint, but the closest I could get to Lotus logo green, or BRG. The new bleed screws with 10 mm hexagon key (instead of 11) seemed to be a clever move to get better access, but it was difficult to get them to seal properly. In the end I had to mount one of the original AP ones. It was quite time consuming to make nice installation with the wheel arch liner with those vented A-panels. I attach a picture showing to new brackets I made. Right now the front dampers are installed upside down, which is the recommended way to reduce unsprung mass. But, that makes it pretty awkward to access the adjustment knob inside the bracket in the lower A-arm. I'll write more in a separate post about the weight savings, the decision to swap the Nitron R1's for CS and I'll probably write about the HiFi upgrade in a separate thread.
  21. It must be called greenhouse for a reason 🤡. An excellent place to do paint jobs. I tried to find a green colour somewhere in the range of the green in the Lotus logo and BRG. It might be a bit too bright, but let's see how it works on the car.
  22. Well, there is an external pipe feeding the hydraulic VVT actuator for the rear cylinder bank, which initially was split with a hose in the middle, while it later on was replaced with a pipe in one piece. I think that the only external pipe with engine oil. Almost impossible to see it with the engine in the car.
  23. I have probably shared the story previously on the forum, but in short: Two main root causes The pre-cat arrangement Small brand - one authorized dealer in Sweden at the time - sloppy work shop 1:st engine (<30000 km when I bough it. Failure after about 2000 km) Most likely the rear cylinder bank pre-cat lambda sensor semi-failed and caused excessive enrichment that melted the cat. With the exhausts blocked on that cylinder bank a high speed (>5k rpm) pre-ignition occurred that cracked ringland on cyl 5 piston. 2:nd engine (new short block) Terrible job from the authorized work shop the insurance company brought the car to. They missed that the main cat (2011 model have it) was also melted and they claimed the car ran fine, which was obvious it didn't. A test drive around the block destroyed two pistons. 3:rd engine (Honed liners and new pistons) The re-assembly of the engine wasn't done properly. It was back to fix oil leakages 3 times. I got it back and drove the autumn + the next season, but had a feeling something wasn't right. When I was about to fit a baffled oil sump I found both oil returns from the cylinder heads to be almost completely blocked with silicone. The oil was full of metal particles and another workshop deemed it to be scrap. Lotus claimed 6 month lead time on a new engine, so I made a deal with the insurance company so that Track Group supplied a race built engine from stock for a fraction of the price. @BrussWhat causes the oil feeder line blockage you described? I haven't come a across that problem on the 2GR-FE's.
  24. @jerzybondov Sure - a Sport 410 would have been a much better starting point, but at least twice the money when I started this. And still things like intake, exhaust, coil overs (if not Öhlins), brake pads, engine mounts, anti roll bar and wishbones are things that still would have needed an upgrade. The LSD and Supercharger with charge air cooler would have been a nice starting point however. @BrussThis car is on its 4:th engine and the last failure wasn't that obvious, but actually the worst. It was however obvious with UV in the oil pan. At work we use magnetic plugs in multiple locations and get accumulated magnetic debris already when it isn't that obvious from random component inspection. I also had a case recently on a friends engine where oil pressure was read correctly, but obviously wasn't present everywhere and we might have found out the reason with a magnetic oil plug instead of trying to figure out where the noise came from and ruined all four pistons. It is a cheap and simple way of detecting some failures.
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