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#84

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  1. I realized that I missed the Powerflex Anti Roll Bar (ARB) bushings in my summary and that the rear toe wasn't actually changed last time. We ran out of time and the difference vs. Hofmanns recommended 0,33 (1,5 mm per side) and the 0,25 in total toe isn't that big. So, revised table: So, I went for the hardest power flex bushings, since I wanted the feeling as firm as possible - and I couldn't really see that i should harm the comfort that much. I think I was right. It was just time and laziness that stopped me from swapping all around last season. Rear is straight forward to change, while front is not. I expected the 2 pillar lift in my workshop to be available later last season, but off course it didn't happen. Too many projects.. Impression? Well, honestly I couldn't feel much difference when just shifting on the rear ARB. On the front yes, but on the other hand I also stiffened up the springs+dampers a lot.
  2. @TdM Going from 1 to 1,5 in negative camber on the front wheels, made a substantial difference in how sensitive it is to worn roads. It definitely wanders and I have to be alert to keep it going as intended. I normally only drive it half an hour / 45 km to work - and back - and then it is fine. Going to a trackway on semi-slicks is awkward anyway 😉 @dogtag114 I made five trackdays on the first setting, two each on the following two settings and so far one on the more aggressive setting. In total, up to beginning of last season I drove the car less than 10 000 km and on the last two settings less than 5 000 km and I haven't seen any extreme tyre wears. The rear left one have currently 1,5/1-ish/1-ish/1,7 in thread depth in its four grooves and the inner section is chamfered the last 2 cm's - which is typical when you scrub the inner shoulder of the inner tyre while cornering.
  3. And now to the ongoing modifications. I thought I could reach decent performance on track just by elaborating on the wheel angles. That proved to be really wrong. I have no direct comparison between the first wheel alignment and before it, but the 2017 setting didn't save the tyres, so I tried to maximize the camber in 2020 and gained - NOTHING. At least not on the stop watch. Two comments are in place. 1. The car has been standing still for long time periods; Aug 2015 - Aug 2016, Sept 2017 - April 2020, so it is not easy to compare. 2. The wheel alignment guy was totally convinced that 1 deg negative camber was maximum for the front wheels. I found out later that he only played with the rearmost excenter. I searched TLF and the factory settings for inspiration while elaborating, but when I finally went for Hofmanns Nitron Race 46 (1-way) I went for Chris recommended settings, only deviation was that I couldn't get full 2,5 deg rear camber. More on the status of this in coming posts
  4. I will try to soon start describing more ongoing activities, not just historical modifications. Track day tyres is an upcoming hot topic, so lets start with my first expenses, the only ones I actually planned before buying the car and what I count as absolutely minimum if one is going to explore the limits on track. Rims: Braid Fullrace FF 8,5"x18" / 10"x18" Tyres: Kumho Ecsta V700 K61 / K91 Brake pads: Performance Friction PFC08 This is how it looked at the shake down of this new stop: Rim selection. I wanted as light and strong wheels as possible, realized that forged wheel would stretch the budget a bit too much and found the by then brand new Fullrace FF series from Braid, utilizing the so called flowforging technology. With new tyres on, comparing to the standard wheels with half worn rear tyres, it saved 10 kg all around. It was a pleasure to deal with Braid and their Swedish distributor, Mocomp, who supplied drawings for approval and iterated on ET etc. Tyre selection. Tricky choice. The rim supplier have worked with Kumho V70A/V700 for many years, supplying to several race series and meant it is a real racing tyre with the additional benefit of being available in various compounds. I went on K61 (Medium) front and K91 (Hard) rear on their recommendation. On my previous track day car, the Alfa 155 Q4, I never got the V700's to work, they couldn't cope with the load even in Hard compound and I finally switched to Yokohama A032R to make it work. I still cannot say how they perform on the Evora compared to any alternatives. Fact is that I gained 4,6 s on a 60-65 s lap vs the Advan Sport street tyres. I might have pushed the limits a bit more on the V700's, with that in consideration, the difference should still be >3 s a lap. The medium compound front tyres wear quicker and I blistered both of them when I explored the very limit on my 4:th track day. The rear wheels are pretty worn, but have still made 7 track days and about 2000 km commuting to the tracks. Given how the tyres looked after the first shake down on Sturup Raceway (looks like they had been attacked by a beaver high on LSD ...) it is amazing how long they have survived: Brake pad selection. The availability is bit limited. I was quite happy with yellow Pagid RS-19 on my Alfa, but were even more impressed by the Performance Friction floating discs and the service from the Swedish distributor, PEAN Sweden. I ask them for advice and ended up on the PFC08 pads. The downside according to the distributor is that they are made for endurance racing and to move the wear from the pdf to the disc. So instead of consuming three sets of pads in 24 h and have lets say 30 % left of the disc, they wear out the disc completely and reduce the pad consumption to two sets. With that said, not optimal from an economical point of view, but the friction from cold is just brutal. - That about that. Side topic. Sturup Raceway (https://www.racingcircuits.info/europe/sweden/sturup.html#.YOqu4C2HLuQ) started as a rallycross track, mixed gravel and tarmac, then got a full tarmac circuit 1990 with a layout more like a rollercoaster than a race track. They arranged a karting race that year, with Formula A (100 cc) and Formula E (250 cc) which must have been one of the crazier races in modern history. The speeds in Formula A were not of this world. Unfortunately it was both the first and the last time and I didn't start with Fomrula A until the year later. Unfortunately, in 2015 the tarmac was still extremely coarse and it is/was not so clever to go there with 100 TW tyres. It says that they have new tarmac there today, that should be more civilized.
  5. @jerzybondov I am in the middle of coil over + drop links + adjustable Anti Roll Bar make over. I will return with more details soon. What I missed to say above is that the car was equipped with Yokohama Advan Sport V105 front and V103 rear - and still is. I have done two quite intense tack days with those tyres on and what I can say is that the V105's (TW240) seems indestructible. It is difficult to say about the V103's (TW180) since I couldn't resist playing around on the test track when we did some TV shooting at work a few years ago. But despite that, they seem to wear a bit quicker in general, which the TW marking also indicates. The bottom line is anyway that if you want to do occasional track days on a high performance road tyre, the Advan Sport is probably a strong candidate since it is relatively cheap, it is very good even though not best in overall performance - BUT you do not risk to destroy it.
  6. Thanks! Next mini-chapter: This is what the car looked like when I bought it in May 2015: It was just about to turn over to 30 000 km and the dealer who delivered it to its first owner in March 2012, Sportivo Leipzig, got it back by the end of 2014. The factory options, as I understand it, was the Premium Pack and the Tech Pack. The dealer did for some reason deliver all their Evoras by default without rear clam badges and with 12 mm spacers all around. I agree that it looks just right with the spacers. Much later I realized that even though the exhaust tail pipe is the standard trapezoidal, it was actually the Lotus Motorsport silencer.
  7. So, why start modifying the car? I think my top three reasons are: The engine has been out, repaired twice, then replaced. And since I by nature cannot just put things together without improving them as well, it is not so standard anymore. So, the ball was already rolling… I like the car, it ticks many boxes and I plan to keep it for some time and can therefore motivate to invest time and money that is hard to get back when selling the car. Sorry to say, but it is just not good enough to produce decent lap times from a chassie perspective. But it might be. With regards to the last reason, it is of course not only about the car. Driving a mid-engine car on the limit is definitely more challenging than for example to be on and above the limit in a FWD car. So, that might play a certain role and I have been elaborating on both driving style and settings. But nevertheless, I realised in 2017 that at Kinnekulle Ring (https://www.racingcircuits.info/europe/sweden/kinnekulle-ring.html#.YOg4P0yew2w), where I’ve been instructor many times, I did exactly the same lap times with the Evora with exactly the same types of tyres that I did 10 years earlier in my 155 Q4. The difference is that the 155 ran on 205/45-16 all around, weighs 70 kg more and have 50 hp less - and is built on a Fiat Tipo chassie 🙈. On that track and on Mantorp Park (https://www.racingcircuits.info/europe/sweden/mantorp-park.html#.YOg5OUyew2w) I checked against a stock BMW M2 with CUP 2’s and both on g-forces, curve speeds and by looking at body movement on film, there is no way the Evora could keep up. That was with standard chassie, optimised geo and Kumho V700’s - which should be faster than the CUP 2’s. The last example is that I have tried to increase the curve speeds gradually on a well known track and up to 1,2 G is fine, then at 1,3 G it starts to blister the tyres, mostly front, but also rear on the outer edge. With that said, I said to myself, either I do something serious to increase the curve speeds, or I sell the car. In worst case I spend time and money and fail. And what is the goal? Keep the car comfortable enough to enjoy driving it once or twice week, going for weekend trips, or to remote track days at Nürburgring, Spa, or so. Other than that, make it as fast as possible on the track, but try to keep the looks of the car relatively standard, not too spectacular.
  8. In the Evija pictures, to me it looks like the diagonal bar is the push rod up to the shock absorber and that the track rod is connected to some active rear wheel stearing device not seen in the picture. So basicly it is a traditional double wishbone with RWS.
  9. And who am I? Since I have met not even a handful of TLF members IRL and since a lot of personal preferences goes into all the big and small project decisions, I write a few lines about myself. 47 years old, originally from Helsingborg in south of Sweden, which is also close to where I live today. There are two race tracks within 30 minutes - and another one 45 min away - and even though there was only one in the 70's, my parents took me there to watch the then rising stars in international F3 etc. So, motorsport have been an essential ingredient in my life as long as I can remember. It was however never even considered to participate in any way until one of my dad's friends was convinced by his son that they should start with karting. That was late -85. For the coming 11 seasons, karting was the centre point of my universe. In -94, after starting at the university, I realized that it was difficult to continue on top level as an amateur and it became a "make it or break it" season, with entry in the European Championship. It was about to be a great success, but it wasn't and at last race that season I was also badly injured in my spine from a silly warm up session incident, hit from behind on a slippery track. After -96 everything was sold off, but 10 years later I bought some 100 cc Formula A stuff again and tries to do at least one practice a year with some friends. I started with track days two years later, with the Alfa Romeo 155 Q4, described in previous post, but was also working with drivers development in karting. From 2002 I did about 10 years as a regular racing instructor and since then occasionally instructor in Alfa Romeo and Lotus track days. I decided to go into historic racing with a 101-series Alfa Romeo Giulietta almost 20 years ago, but I am not there yet. First car? If we skip the 1981 Iveco Daily 35-10 I bought as a "racing bus" when I was 14, then it was a pearl black 1988 Peugeot 205 GTI (1.9 105 PS), lowered, with short shift linkage. I fitted the Rally look-a-like roof spoiler from Gutmann, a Simmons sports exhaust and off course a 12" Cerwin Vega sub-woofer - to further challenge the French build quality of rattling plastic panels 😉. Given that I bought that car when Ari Vatanen & co had been showing off the 205 in rally for some years and the 155 when it had been in top of DTM during the mid 90's, I am probably one of those stupid easily manipulated target customers of the OE motorsport marketing programs. Well, someone needs to give them pay back for building cool cars. Engineer/physicist by education, but since over 10 years within Sales &/or Marketing. I did my MSc project within vehicle dynamics for Dallara, which sounds more exotic than it was, then some more generic vehicle dynamics simulation development within what later became the Modelica programming language, before joining the Swedish defense research agency within computational aerodynamics. I started a PhD on the side in 2001, but left it all for Scania after 1,5 years and worked within Industrial & Marine engine development and certification for the coming 6 years. Many years later; today I work in a small company, called Freevalve, which develops cam-less valve train technology. To jump all the details of that, from a personal perspective it is cool to not only meet engine R&D representatives for many of the engine producing OEM's, but also mix it with spending time in the lab, in the machine shop as well as figuring out new inventions (well, it happens sometimes). So, all in all, in many ways I use my car projects to both boost and to satisfy my creativity and I tend to end up building stuff before buying stuff. The downside is that the project may go very quick for some time, but then stand still for a very long time, especially with work, house, family - two teen age daughters in alpine skiing, a horse and so on. And I realize that me and my father have spent more time building up a garage with lift, machine shop, etc than we may have spent on the car projects. Over to the car project, which shouldn't have been a project.
  10. So, why an Evora S? A reflection I've made many times after I joined the Lotus community six years ago is that what is seen as a lightweight alternative to a 911, some of the super sedans, or even one of the later quite capable pony cars, is often seen as a comfortable GT, or even a poser car compared to the more hardcore Elises and Exiges. For me, the starting point was that I realized that I had reached the end of the road with my Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 as a road legal track day car. It is one of the last built, March -96, so it is a Series III (often called wide body) and I was told there were only 67 built. I've had mine since new, so it was not an alternative to do a GTA, or DTM, replica, or any other crazy mods. The two main issues with that car for track day usage is the limited frontal area for cooling and the tiny wheels (205/45-16 standard). As a petrol head you always have plenty of cars on your wish list and the Evora definitely caught my attention when it was launched. A few years later, 2011, I actually went to the closest Lotus dealer (Copenhagen) and considered to go for an Evora NA as a daily driver. The immediate result was that I realized I needed an Evora S to not be slower then the 155 Q4, the second result was my wife move to go for a Fiat 500, so I had to be the one driving around in a family car. Shit. Well, I already had three enthusiast cars, so... My heart have since I bought the 155 in the late 90's been with Italian cars and Alfa Romeo in particular. Therefore it came natural to put the 4C on top of the wish list when it was presented as a concept. Then, when it finally was launched and in many ways were amazing and kind of an affordable Ferrari, I was quite disappointed that it wasn't offered with manual transmission and that it was more impractical than I expected. So, since it is still a a lot of many and it is not exactly what I wanted it to be, I tried to figure out what I really wanted. Two things stood out. 1. I realized that I wanted to once in my life have a really nice and fast car in which I could also bring my family for Sunday drivings, or smaller trips. 2. I had struggled to find time to finish my historic racing projects, since my other cars always had taken too much time. So, I wanted a track day car that I could just change wheels and brake pads on and take to the track, without spending my project budget on modifying it. Well, that was in May 2015, my daughters were 7 and 9 and did fit in the Evora. Now, it's kind of different and also the Evora has become a project car 🙈🙉🙊
  11. .. quite satisfying to start the first thread here 😃 I want to start sharing two pictures of what the car looks like today, a picture of my latest modification and then present a) Why I bought an Evora S 2+2 b) Who I am c) Why I start this thread. The very latest thing done, is actually to re-fit the rear clam badges yesterday evening, after re-painting some details, but I wouldn't say that it count as a modification. Instead it must be the adjustable drop links from "Hardrace" to the rear anti roll bar. I will come back to the specs later, as well as to the other modification that could be seen in the same picture.
  12. Nice. Thanks! I guess I should have searched Lotus Talk as well.
  13. I had some paint job done recently, the paint shop thought there was a guide on where to put "L O T U S" and "Evora" and "S". It doesn't seem to be the case. I checked various chapters in the workshop manual. The only thing I know is 50 mm from the LOTUS letters up to the edge of the rear clam. Anyone who have the figures? I had them measured a few years ago... but it doesn't help now
  14. Thanks for the input @rallyesax @Arregueti It shouldn't be any problem to source a PS4S in 225/40-18. It is just that there is only one version, no special OEM specs'.
  15. I thought all tyre questions were covered, definitely related to Michelin Pilot Sport tyres, but it seems like this particular one isn't I intend to stay on the original 18/19" sport wheels for road use and plan A is to go for PS4S in standard dimensions (Noise, fuel, feeling). For front 225/40-18 I believe there are no options, but for rear 255/35-19 there seems to be a few different versions, minimum 5. For 19/20 I think XL on the rear was the only recommendation from Lotus. But new versions keep being launched. So, do anyone have any clue on which tyre marking, besides XL that is the best option? Plan B is to keep the Yoko Advan 105's front and buy a new set for the rear. There is plenty left on the front ones, but I understand that PS4S are a step up in everyday's driving
  16. OK, I see. Well, I went for the very stiffest ones; 900 Front / 1100 lbs/in Rear and the required damper settings for track use are for sure more the opposite, even though I haven't sorted them out completely. In general it seems like a) the adjustment range offers great adjustability b) the stiffest springs requires a whole lot of additional chassie tweaking to get it perfectly right. However, general ride comfort is absolutely not bad. Compared to when I fitted Eibach Pro kit progressive springs with Yellow Koni dampers on my Alfa 155 Q4, it started to feel harsh even over the white lines on the road. I am not kidding. The Evora is still nice to drive on the road, as well.
  17. @Bruss, very interesting post! It's a shame that it hasn't generated any discussions. Maybe it is just becuase there aren't that many Evoras with Nitrons? First of all I have to ask what spring rates you have? I also ordered a set from Chris and went for the stiffest 900/1100 lbs/in option (+140/+100 % vs OEM) and just had a shake down at the local track. I wouldn't say that the fine tuning is yet completed, but for sure is that I need to go at least two clicks softer at the rear vs front to at all get the power down in the track. I actually consider disconnect the rear ARB completely.
  18. Interesting with the Kelford offering, but they are obviously referring to turbocharged installations. Have any of those cam profiles been used in any SC engine builds? They look like decent upgrades, but again, you work differently with cams for TC's vs. SC's.
  19. I am quite sure I read in another thread, here or on LotusTalk, that the exhaust cam differs from Toyota original. But, if I read on the MWR site, they state the same OEM lift/duration for the Toyota vehicle's 2GR-FE as they do for Lotus. Other than that I agree about what you say. I find it remarkable that also after market tuning cam's for the supercharged engines keep the same specifications for intake and exhaust. Especially as I understand there are more to gain in porting the exhaust than the intake port.
  20. You can alos check with Track Group who builds the Cosworth spec GLA/GLB engines. However, I understand it as they change to solid lash adjusters - which is fine until until you need to adjust the valve clearance and have the TVS1900 covering one cylinderbank What I find interesting is that MWR claims their 50 % stiffer springs to be good for 7700 rpm and that you would need Ti valves and solid lash adjusters to run safely at 8000 rpm. Jubu Performance, on the other side, offers 30 % stiffer springs which they claim are good up to 8000 rpm, even with 13,5 mm lift. It is not easy to be a consumer.. In any case, I am considering the same operation, so if you can get some 1st hand information and share it, it would be great!
  21. I have a bunch of redundant heat shields after my 2bular exhaust system was mounted some years ago. Since the one on the front exhaust manifold has a hose leading the hot air up to the ventilation I am thinking that it actually might help to lower the engine bay temperature. Now, it is not that easy to even test if it fits, so therefore the question: Does the original front exhaust manifold heat shield fit on a 2bular type of exhaust manifold with any reasonable modification? Pictures?
  22. I did the opposite, went for Aluminum screws with big rounded head for minimized drag and weight 😱 Sorry, not in English, but you get the principle: https://www.carbix.se/product.html/aluminiumskruv-kullrig
  23. I do not think the Camry tune will exceed the fuel flow the pump can provide, but I wouldn't go very high in boost with such an arrangement. Maybe a progressive fuel pressure regulator could cure it, or limit the boost by adjusting the recirculation valve setting. Like one can do with the waste gate on a turbo charger, same principle. If you know someone with a wide band lambda sensor, I would use that during a test ride.
  24. Ok, if you are only after a pure conversion, the only thing you have to change is the fuel pump, for two reasons. It is not specified for E85 and is then likely to fail. Secondly, it is rated 140 L/h and if you use Deatschwerks' online guide, you need 175 L/h to safely supply the standard 350 hp. I actually became a bit curious about what there is on the market right now and found a Swedish company "eFlexFuel" who have plug and play solutions for the Evora NA and the 4-cyl Exige. A kit is 399 €! Not that bad. I guess they have partners in other countries, given that their webpage is partly available French etc and have a whole lot of models listed that I wouldn't expect.
  25. Forget the original ECU. Cheapest and maybe easiest is to use a piggy back ECU with built in flex fuel functionality. I was looking at Greddy, or AEM, (don't remember) two years ago, but went for the ECU Master EMU Black. ECU + wire loom is quite a bit more money (4x) than piggy back unit, but given that the standalone ECU works, then it is much more plug and play. With the piggy back, you need to tap into the original ECU wires, or contacts, by your own. If you search internet for "E85 piggy back", then you find a lot of alternatives. By doing so, you keep all the original ECU functionality. So, a lot of pros and cons. But, besides that, you need the flex fuel sensor (100+€), a bigger Ethanol compatible fuel pump (150 €) and probably bigger fuel injectors (500 €). I have sourced a set of 775 cc injectors with adaptors for the Toyota/Denso contacts. Monkey Wrench Racing have all the components you need.
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