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Everything posted by S2111S

  1. Olly at........ Phoenix Motorsport Albion Mill/Unit 7 Duckworth St Accrington, Church BB5 4LQ 01254 384071
  2. I don't think Camskill ship to the US. A full slick? Shouldn't be a problem. Try....... Roger Kraus in California, 1-800-510-RACE Frisby Performance Tire in Illinois, 1 815 525 7050 Sascosports in Virginia 1 434 822 7200 They can supply full slick track only or semi slick road legal.
  3. https://forums.the
  4. Romford 01708 340168
  5. Remove the black plastic surround and the knobs to give full access and it will clean up as new.
  6. Probably best to contact Eliseparts direct for advice in that case.
  7. I wouldn't want to move them down manually but it sounds like that's your last option. Perhaps move just the rev counter manually and see how it performs. If it works normally then do the speed.
  8. Did you open the drivers door when resetting? 1/ Sit in car and turn off the ignition. 2/ Open the driver's door 3/ Press and hold the trip-meter reset button 4/ Turn the key in the ignition to the second position You could also try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes
  9. S2 Bilstein with different mounting brackets for the S1. I don't think you'll improve on Elise Parts kit prices for that option. Gaz option is good value. See Ebay. I know what you mean about the bladder issue but I'm not sure much is gained in that department by damper changing unless you go for having a set of Nitron specially tuned for bladder comfort. Speak to Hofmanns if you want to know more. Having said that you will notice a big improvement over your current dampers. The bladder issue is most likely solved with new dampers and a more compliant set of tyres - I'm assuming you would be happy to lose some handling capability?
  10. Good point. The dealer must have the correct equipment to deal with R1234yf. They can't use R134 equipment unless its been modified. In that case it can no longer be used for R134. Maybe its the dealer who should call in a specialist?
  11. Glued in. Heat might help if you are careful. Either way removal is likely to damage the grill.
  12. They are wrong to say that R1234yf is not suitable for use with leak detection fluid: I would suggest you take the car to a vehicle air con specialist who will be able to identify the leak location fairly easily. Alternatively give the dealer the leak detection fluid and instructions.
  13. Probably alternator bearings. If you are ok with spanners run the engine with the belt removed and see if it stops.
  14. A bit late to the party with this..... Lotus: A117E6007F Bosch: 0 258 006 127 Rover: MHK 100840 The two sensors are both the same. I've never had any issues with the cheaper pattern parts and at about a third of the cost of the big names they are worth a punt. The post cat sensor only tells the ECU that the cat is working, nothing to do with emissions, so if nothing else consider using a cheap version in that location - no point in throwing money away.
  15. I realised my original comment relates to the touchkey re-syncronisation. As for your spare ignition key try this before anything else: Ensure you are within range of the alarm system and press both remote buttons at the same time. Wait until the remote LED goes out. Release them and check the remote LED comes back on. Press either button on the remote control to test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If that doesn't work here's a slightly clearer explanation of the process that Lotus describe. Key not in the ignition. Remote Fobs: Fob fails to operate alarm - replace batteries and/or re-sync fob to alarm. This proceedure will only work with fobs pre-coded with the 16 digit code. Fob syncing proceedure. With a working fob arm and disarm the alarm sixteen times or until the alarm stops responding, alarm now in program mode. Once in program mode press the button of the non-working remote, then press the button of the working remote. Don't exceed 8 seconds between each action. Wait 8 seconds to exit learning mode. Test remotes. Note the text in bold.....if you have the earlier Meta with a much shorter code this procedure won't work.
  16. You will need the alarm code and an alarm specialist with the Meta coding equipment to make your dead key live again. If your live key fails before you sort your spare key it will give you a world of pain. Never heard of the press 17 times thing.
  17. Taken from the S/e/l/o/c Wiki...... Toyo 888 Tyre Pressures My name is Alan Meaker, I am the Motorsport Manager for Toyo Tyres (UK) Ltd. I was at Rockingham on the Saturday 1ST March at the LOT trackday and worked with a couple of cars using our R888 tyre regarding pressures and tread temperatures. What I would like to do is to offer some advice on tyre temperatures and pressures and how to achieve the best from our tyres when taking part in either trackdays or racing. The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use. The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure. Below are some basic settings: VEHICLE WEIGHT COLD PRESSURE HOT PRESSURE Very Light < 800kg 17 - 22 psi 22 - 29 psi Light 800kg - 1000kg 20 - 26 psi 24 - 32 psi Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg 23 - 27 psi 28 - 40 psi Very Heavy > 1400kg 27 - 35 psi 37 - 40 psi As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great. Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside. Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling. Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. You often here competitors saying “My tyres started to go of towards the end of the race”, this is usually due to the tread getting to hot. The tread temperatures are constantly changing through out a race, hotter when cornering and cooler when on the straights and cooling even more when you are slowing to come into the pits. Therefore the temps you record in the pits will be lower than those during the race. So if you record temperatures within the range given above the probability is the temps will be too high during the race. Increasing your tyre pressures will cause your tread temperatures to increase, more pressure stiffens the tyre’s casing which results in the tread having to do more work resulting in the tread getting hotter. Lowering your pressures will cause them to decrease. Inevitably changing one thing will affect other things, the whole set up of your car is a compromise between anything that is adjustable. Some of you are also asking about different compounds. Originally we only had one compound ‘GG’ (medium hard), but we have now introduced some sizes in a ‘SG’ (soft/wet) compound. This was done primarily for sprint/hillclimb (around 60 second runs) where the distances covered are relatively short and you need the tyres to work/heat up very quickly. This is not a compound I would recommend for race/trackday dry use as the tyres will go off very quickly. The sizes that will be available are: 185/60R13, 205/60R13, 195/50R15, 205/50R15, 225/45R16, 225/45R17. Another subject is the introduction of our Proxes R1R. This tyre was due to be launched at the beginning of 2008, unfortunately this has been delayed to at least mid 2008 but there is a good chance it will be latter than this. Regarding sizes, initially we will have a rear fit (225/45ZR17) but not the front (195/50R16). I hope this is of some use to you. If I can be of any further assistance please give me a call. 01933 414537 Best Regards Alan
  18. Glad it's sorted. The lights on the heater control panel are easily sorted and are seperate from the circuit board. The circuit board can be seen on the right hand side in this photo and can sometimes benefit from having the solder joints reheated. If any of that is worth the trouble of getting it out though is another matter.
  19. So you don't need to increase to 18/17. Not sure if spacers are required on the rear but Hanger 111 will advise.
  20. You can fit 4 pot calipers inside the standard 16" fronts. How big are these brakes you want to fit? I guess you could make the 18/17 combination work with some spacers and low profile tyres. Probably be like riding a brick though. Contact Seriously Lotus about upgrading your brakes within the OEM wheels.
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