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Robbie

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  1. Hi rear drum in binding on rear brakes handbrake cable seems to release therefore I need to get the drum off my elite 503. Looked in forums and manual but bit confused as to minimum bolts to undo to take off brake drum . Jacked up car removed rear wheel and removed 4 bolts holding drive shaft to drum . If possible can someone simply list steps of what to do next , ie what bolts to undo and in what order and what needs jacking up .! Looks like I need to remove totally the whole shaft where I had thought it could be slid out the way and this would involve even disconnecting the suspension spring ??
  2. That’s interesting and thank you , now makes sense on such an expensive car of its day as not using everyday plastic but technology leading nylon. Will give it some thought as now have some affection for grill originality already appreciated the interiori is actually a now rare named fabric and I love the originality of that. The elite may not be popular with lotus people but strikes me amazing someone sat down and threw money at the special chtomework , styling, engineering , the fabrics and even nylon grill . Exceptional company car deserves exceptional respect as many models based on it followed. And you still buy one for peanuts even when someone has restored it to perfection. You can buy a reasonably restored Tr6 for 28k is that a bit of a joke compared to a lotus elite
  3. Grill is a disappointment on such a pretty car plastic can be sprayed any colour . Vannot find any pics of a good upgrade , black sprayed or same as body or rivearia that not much better. Aluminium seems too dull can only think mirror stainless but expensive . Love to set the task of some design genius to come up with a grill of that size , imagine bulges louvred metals etc
  4. TThanks I’ll take the spare to some yellow pages wheel places and see what they suggest. And same for some specialist paint shops. Yes tempting to jack the chassis glad I never did . Thanks for your time I’m replying
  5. Been going thru this one basically cleaning all original items interior etc all electrics cleaned, /renewed ,Mazda popup headlights retro dab radio. Rebuilt carbs and Mot last year. Every thing works now , electric mirrors pin interior light , glove box light and rear windscreen wiper and wash Deciding whether to have made bonnet grill in mirror stainless as the rest of the finishing is excellent. Unusual double sunroof is excellent as its the roof covering. Have a new waist chrome sourced from America some years back. Fitted running light in spoiler (*phillips) for safety. Colour is lagoon blue and engine bay is fine therefore will be looking for respray of car from roof down. in original colour Not happy about removing bottom windscreen trim so hoping that can be taped. Have all parts to restore air conditioning and power steering is fine. Interior I think fits the car so well in beige and brown velour, whilst most think leatherette/leather is better this seems so fitting for the cars style and age. Also easy to colour with dylon where faded and clean with patience Car will never be restored to original as I like them to look like a well looked after road car. Questions 1. Lotus workbook list complicated spraying technics and there is crazing particularly on the bonnet. I am near Exeter any recommendations on respray outfits should it be glass fibre specialised. Is modern methods better than lotus recommended 2. Similarly wheels are as I got the car again will they become shinier is professionally dealt with. Any recomendations what to ask for as a restoration process. Tyres are unusual and look original `I am sure I could not resourse. therefore Is there a close copy. Tread its okay but almost want to save them by not driving on them. Will put up a pic , they have hatchings rather than lined tread.Goodyear eagle , whats the best alternative 3. Finally I have had access to a ramp occasionally but would like to use a jack. I remain concerned re jacking points. Is there a best method. I am thinking of small scissor jacks with wood spreading load then putting under wheels ramps Or if axle stands can be used . If any of these what points should they be under not to cause damage to the galvanised structure or glass fibres body.best position.
  6. Been going thru this one basically cleaning all original items interior etc all electrics cleaned, /renewed ,Mazda popup headlights retro dab radio. Rebuilt carbs and Mot last year. Every thing works now , electric mirrors pin interior light , glove box light and rear windscreen wiper and wash Deciding whether to have made bonnet grill in mirror stainless as the rest of the finishing is excellent. Unusual double sunroof is excellent as its the roof covering. Have a new waist chrome sourced from America some years back. Fitted running light in spoiler (*phillips) for safety. Colour is lagoon blue and engine bay is fine therefore will be looking for respray of car from roof down. in original colour Not happy about removing bottom windscreen trim so hoping that can be taped. Have all parts to restore air conditioning and power steering is fine. Interior I think fits the car so well in beige and brown velour, whilst most think leatherette/leather is better this seems so fitting for the cars style and age. Also easy to colour with dylon where faded and clean with patience Car will never be restored to original as I like them to look like a well looked after road car. Questions 1. Lotus workbook list complicated spraying technics and there is crazing particularly on the bonnet. I am near Exeter any recommendations on respray outfits should it be glass fibre specialised. Is modern methods better than lotus recommended 2. Similarly wheels are as I got the car again will they become shinier is professionally dealt with. Any recomendations what to ask for as a restoration process. Tyres are unusual and look original `I am sure I could not resourse. therefore Is there a close copy. Tread its okay but almost want to save them by not driving on them. Will put up a pic , they have hatchings rather than lined tread.Goodyear eagle , whats the best alternative 3. Finally I have had access to a ramp occasionally but would like to use a jack. I remain concerned re jacking points. Is there a best method. I am thinking of small scissor jacks with wood spreading load then putting under wheels ramps Or if axle stands can be used . If any of these what points should they be under not to cause damage to the galvanised structure or glass fibres body.best position.
  7. Thanks Simon thats great info and I will get cracking , so nice if Aircon works. I am sure you have working carbs but I found renewing the pump gasket in the bottom of the dellortos improved engine running enormously as they loose their shape and become over flexible, on one carb it was hardly pumping fuel. They are £16 each on ebay from a few suppliers. Pretty sure people with starting issues would also benefit. You need to turn your restoration into a book ... very informative.
  8. Putting back air conditioning on my elite. Seen your post on new hoses and jag compressor, mine seem in good condition. Couple questions , can you add a photo of belt tensioner as I will need to source one, hoping there are a few about. also where did you source the belt. Did you source a new aircon radiator as probaly safer for me to renew mine, did you find a good equivient. Finally will you use a professional to refill system and test or will you have a routine to get it operating is is it an easy process. Thanks for any info.
  9. Summary and thanks to all for contributions which I have put into this note. The Lotus electrical ignition system is very basic, but components need to be in good order. Add decent plug leads and spark plugs and there should be no issues. The diagram is accurate,.both for S2 and S1 (with the lumination excluded) . C2 is a noise suppressor, I have found the one that was on the old coil originally old radios probably still need it. The S1 has a ballast coil (would test with an resistance meter at 1.5 rather than 3 for non ballast,) Using a non ballasted coil will still work but the coil will overheat and quickly damage the points and condenser , a common mistake leading to ongoing running problems. There is a rev limiting rotor on the distributor. A Red rotor can be use but revs then will not be limited and potential dangers of engine and belt damage if revs exceeded. Rev limited rotor is marked 3500 and is hard to find but is well made, extremely sturdy and second hand is likely to be adequate, check condition. The Pink sheaved wire is a thick single strand of copper which seems similar to 1.5 mm electrical wire and acts a a resistor showing 7V ,Substitutes can be made up but voltage will require testing to find the appropriate thickness . This is very basic system which can be replaced by a purpose built resistor on ebay. They are easy to fit but make sure they are connected in place of the pink sheaved wire (remove the resistance wire if still in place.) !2v is supplied on starting from the direct feed on the starter solenoid to positive side of the coil which ceases once engine stops cranking. A continued feed comes from ignition when switched on via the fuse box and is at approx 7v after passing through the pink resistance wire . Keep the the oil filled coil in an upright position, It should not become hot after use Accuspark electronic modules seems acceptable ( ensure it is for the ballast coil applicable to the lotus model). Additionally rebuilding original distributor if required , (distributor Doctor provides a service) , A cheaper new distributor or combined electronic converted distributor could be purchased but ensure it can withstand working on its side without leaking and match the lotus specification (which seems unlikely). Earthing plays a part, the wire to the side of the distributor can cause breakdowns and to the negative side of the coil. If you have not done so .and are unaware of the age of the points distributor cap and condenser, it is wise to renew them as they are cheap and it is safe to remove the distributor marking its position after putting rotor to No1 plug position, (number one is near the front of the engine.) providing all the belts are on.
  10. director dan certainly the wavy line is the ballast resistor , funny is shows c2 leading to a. earth which made me think there is a separate module. . Thankfully today my resistance wire appears working as it reduced voltage to the coil, the indication to earth in the diagram may be to show the voltage only drops when a circuit is made to earth.
  11. Thanks that makes sense I have used powerspark on MGs as a complete unit with electronics and rate them but you make a good point on it being fitted on its side in a lotus so to be careful distributor is designed for this. Today I managed to get the ignition fed resistance wire to read 7 volts to the ballasted coil, so connections correct, will fit new points and condensor and hopefully sparks up. If that works will stay with points unless needed to change to electronic. My rev limiting rotor seems in good shape very solid so hopefully ok for a few years. I see they are difficult to come by .Thank you for the heads up on distributor removal I could not understand the issues on forums now I do with belt off, thankfully mine is on.. If it runs I will celebrate by posting some pics of the car.
  12. Great diagram. ~ I can see how a lumination would easily connect to my s1 if the distributor/optical I obtained was the correct model for S1and assume some lotus owners have upgraded . I wonder whether on an S2 with lumination lotus continued with a rev limiting rotor as in the S1 or the luminition module limited revs. ~Not planning on moving to lumination as yet, prefer to get my system sparking. Not sure you know what C2 is. its going to earth, assume it may be an interference module,, I have not got one but cannot believe it would make the resistor wire reduce voltage to 7 volts. However it may complete a circuit which would reduce voltage across the resistor wire in which case I would need one. Any ideas.
  13. Yes its strange the pink sheaved wire is thick copper and over length and coiled up and attaches to the coil and is obviously a resistance wire but gives 12v. Why its not working could be that the measured voltage only drops when in circuit ie current flowing ,which would be when the points close ,that I still have to check. Your backup suggestion of using a ballast resistor makes sense with new wiring from the ignition and I will take that option if I cannot prove resistor wire works. Car not yet started as weak spark to the plugs. New points and condenser cap and ballasted coil from SJ . Unfortunately coil from them rattles and appears in need of replacement. Think I could be in for some electrical starting problems so renewing all at the outset then figures crossed before coming to forum. One issue to renew points its easier to remove distributor and in most cars this is not a problem,. I note on forums some tales of horror that this is not straightforward. I intend just lifting out distributor taping end so it cannot rotate fixing points and condenser in position and returning to engine. with car not moving in same position. Anything to be careful of. Also number one cylinder on most cars is nearest the radiator. Is this the same on the lotus 907 engine. I have a workshop manual but this is not covered thanks rob.
  14. May have found an answer online that if I earth the negative Side of coil in a ballasted system with ignition key on voltage should drop to say 7 v. On the positive side Or if the points closed. Will try a test tomorrow. Anyone like to confirm before I break something.
  15. 1979 elite 503 . Rebuilding ignition non lumination. Ballasted coil . to negative side of coil wires to revcounter and distributor. To positive side of coil wire from solenoid and from ignition. The question relates to the sleeved wire from ignition to the coil. This should be a resisted wire and for a ballast system I assume carry less than 12 v. All tests, connected to coil or loose indicate full 12v. I cannot believe it would reduce voltage when engine runs as it is only a wire. Anyone with standard ignition on an elite, does the sleeved wire from ignition itself show a voltage drop or does it have to be tested in a special way, Thanks Rob.
  16. Hi when you get o the distributor can you check whether you have a rev limiting rotar. My 1979 503 has a lucas rotar limited to 3500 rpm and I am not sure this is standard for an. elite . The rotar arm is easily identifiable as circular with half circle steel grounding plate marked on steel 3500 rpm. Thanks
  17. Before a professional respray looking to tidy some obvious bad areas to make the car more presentable after a period off the road. Pro respray will be prep and spray so what I do now can be small areas and probably not that good. My question is I understand not to take down to gel coat so starting on a faded paint area what p grit would give a satisfactory smoothness to spray over. I assume wet and dry perhaps p2500. Or higher. Sensitive as glass fibre body and lower resistance so any prior experience appreciated. Easy answer is wait for full respray but some Months of shakedown first and touch up would be nice.
  18. Thank you thanks exactly what I need to know . it means I have a problem from the light switch to the former power to solenoid which now feeds the relay to the motors. As the flash works the motors it should not be too hard to trace. Nice to know it should operate the pods without engine running.
  19. Thank you black cat I have copied your procedures and your excellent post. Can you remember if the light pods raise when you operated the light switch into the on position with the ignition on but the engine not started. Mine currently do not and I may have a problem with my light switch. The flash stalk works and I have followed your wiring advice. I have yet to get the engine running to test the pods in that situation.
  20. Sorry pulling flash indicator raises light with lights on letting stalk go lights go down , therefore flashing works. Main point required is does engine have to be running for light pods to raise when vacuum replaced by Mazda motors. It may be a wiring issue just my car .The feed I use to the motors is the old feed which went to the solenoid and perhaps it is only activated when the engine is running . That would be quite clever meaning the solenoid does not receive power even if the lights switch is turned and pulled, unless the engine is running. It would also mean I do not have a problem to solve, simply next step get the car running.
  21. Fitted mazda motors for headlights as part of renovation of my lotus. Back to front actions I appreciate as I have never had the engine running yet or driven the car. My question is what is the basic processes on switching on the lights and when do the pods raise in the following situations 1, If you have the ignition off and turn the light switch on 2. If you have ignition on and turn on the light switch but do not start the engine 3. If you turn ignition on , start the engine and switch the lights on 4. If the ignition is off and you press the flash arm 5. If you have the ignition on and you press the flash arm 6. If you have ignition on and engine on and press the flash switch Answers I assume will be one or a combination of the following : a sidelights b headlights c main beam d pods up e pods down f nothing Currently without the engine running I can raise the pods by pulling the flash indicator each pull raises the next lowering. Good for flashing. Before I play with the wiring I need to establish when the light switch would sent power to the solenoids as I am using that circuit. Obviously it operates through the flash lever as I can see that working and in the wiring diagram If the engine running is the only way the light switch send power to the solenoid I may not have a problem, I see there is a thermal switch in the diagram but have not come about that before. Thanks for looking at a long note for a simple question.
  22. Hi did you alter or bypass the resistor and was the led bulb 12v assuming the elite ectat has the same rollbar e10 fitting.
  23. Hi anybody have success with the centre consul pinlight. Is an E10 12 v led the answer with the resistor bypassed. I bypassed the resistor as the pinlight bulb was too dull and blew it. Realised bulb was low voltages probably as stated here 2.5 volt.. Anyone had any success with bulb, resistor combo to actually light the panel ???. Further point as never seen another elite pinlight working can you see the instrument panel effectively lit by the original bulb. I can replace a 2.5 volt but unless the resistor is overworking through age and needs replacing I'm pretty good sure light will be poor.
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