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Robbie

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Posts posted by Robbie

  1. Thanks Ben mines original and has been on the road unusually in this country for last 3 years, .I sourced a new chrome waist strip in preparation for a respray but below the chrome waist strip the paint  is lovely lagoon blue and very shiny. Above the strip is a different story faded and few chips. The original electric mirrors are good and chrome finishers in excellent condition. The top is original twin sunroofs and a blue padded roof covering all good. Only thing I did was electric Mazda risers for headlights. I think theirr is a picture on my profile. My thoughts are get the top masked off below the chrome finishers and also masked below the chrome waist strip. Then prepare and get the top half sprayed from waist strip up to but not including the window chrome. Then refitting the new waist chrome. Idoubt I can get the original fantastic finish for the bit I will have resprayed but if is close, two two slightly  shades I think would look nice. When I got the car first I thought the paint was two different shades above and below the chrome waist strip. You have given me inspiration a part respray will not completely ruin the originality even if the top half is never as good a quality.

  2. Really smart. With regard to the respray do you recall what the final rub down was grit, paste etc. Also what did you use in order to get to the final finish ie base coat through to top coat finish and type of paint , any heating etc. Some background on methodology will help my understanding what works on these grade of glass fibre cars 

  3. Sorry all's finished on car bar respray, foolishly sent log book to dlva to register as historic. Did not send recorded and now say it's lost need apply for new log book. Engine plate on hood says 78 071260a not sure if this is just the car make identifier and chassis number is elsewhere. Any guidance on where to look for chassis number on a 78 lotus elite 503. I have no other docs. And dlva form needs chassis number although there records must have it ...thanks rob

  4. Thanks Richard been busy checking and renewing , once I understood the rear brakes they were quite easy to access and rebuild , thankfully the handbrake cable didn't require messing with. The front calipers are getting rare and I managed to snap off a bleed nipple but sourced a new caliper for $85 which was a one off miracle. Engine and geaboxx are running sweet, the tyre replacement is a bummer but mine are OK for now. Alls well and will be on road this week. Everything works and have all parts to get air conditioning restored. Paint is an issue and bonnet is so crazed may be better to source a cleaner one. Will investigate a simple respray as sourced a new chrome strip and as the roof is vinsyl covered with twin sunroofsarea to spray  is not too big. We have some boat restorers down here may speak with them they are much cheaper per hour.!! Not interested in concourse just 40 year old smart drivability.

     

  5. Re post 10th august can anyone remember where the handbrake lever sits in relation  to the cylinder. Above photo post shows lever pins which stick out each side  in front of cylinder  prongs. If I pull the  leaver out further  I can get the pins to sit on top of the cylinder prongs. Neither feel right and I suspect the cylinder needs to be reseated or the lever is bent. However just knowing pins  on top of  prongs of cylinder or in front would help. The cylinder does slide to and throu and has some lateral movement.

    The cable adjusters I know are difficult to access but on the off chance is there any further release of overall tension at the handbrake lever (in car) ratchet even when off ,which could reset tension to allow work on drums  I know some some cars can.

    Thanks rob.

     

  6. Struggling to refit the handbrake arms , I have the manuals pic as posted here . do the pins on the handbrake adjuster arms sit against the backplate in which case the cylinder front prongs rest in front of them , or the pins sit on top of the cylinder prongs or between them . trying to reposition with diff on as only servicing cylinder. Do not want to strip other side for info. Anyone got a close up of how handbrake adjuster arms sit, cable is still attached but able to move position of adjuster arms in backplate but dont want to reassemble until in correct position.

  7. Thanks John , more by luck than judgement could easily have lost it. Putting shoes on they spring outwards then slipping right out of position , then i start again. Obviously  the pins / spring retainers will hold them if I can keep shoes from falling down. Havnt succeeded yet in getting them seated in place first. Is this just a tricky business or is there a correct order of fitting shoes. Mind you havnt tried with the H part in the shoe that may help stopping shoes springing outwards.

  8. Cannot source the oversize wheel cylinders assume people are fitting those with smaller pistons . My pistons just had some surface rust on the stainless and some 600 grit sandpaper lightly on it and inside cylinder has meant it moves freely. Have cleaned thoroughly with brake fluid . Sj rtscars had new seals  which i will fit and reassemble. Avoids removing cylinder potential diff etc. Worth a try , seems like this was a common repair method in the old garage days. If it doesn’t work i will see the leak and just be out time some brake fluid and £8 for the seals. I will update 

  9. Mad wolf thanks I thought that may be that answer , but desperate not to remove diff , Good news the underside is very clean and everything seems to undo easiliy. Suppose new shoes and wheel brake cylinders will mean I know it’s right.  Pic of nurled wheel which I did not under stand . Turns freely clockwise from passenger side to extend ,, handbrake moves top slider to turn it one way hence adjusting  brake shoes for wear compensation . The actual handbrake action to put it on is normal lever action , I thought it was that nurled wheel hence my confusion thinking somehow it puts the handbrake on and off rotating both ways.

     

    will search forums on simplest way to remove diff first, the fear I think is about the handbrake linkages cutting holes in floor etc. As my cables worked okay renewing cylinders I hope will not mess that up

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  10. Found these for £17 will buy and show me most of what I didn’t realise . Forums indicate changing them is a nightmare involving dif removal.  I can perhaps just use the new  piston and seals on my fitted cylinder it seems lotus cleaned them in the workshop manual .I see the bleed screw is attached and I can hopefully access mine from rear of drum although space is tight. I also see what a thought was a botched boot is what was intended

    The exploded view in pic is useful but covered by cylinder and is not in workshop manual, has anyone got a pic they can post

    the nurled wheel obviosly it can come out. Therefore turns  I see the slider plate operates. Is it on a screw thread can I unwind it or wind it in in situ by hand or pushing teeth with a screw diver. I would like to extract the nurled wheel with cylinder in situ.

    If by I miracle I put it back together,  and follow johns instructions re self adjust, will it do so without messing with the other wheel.

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  11. Thanks John . Car been stood for some time appeared to freewheel and initially drive . One wheel then locked and with some stamping on brake and handbrake it released, then stuck again.. stripped down and lots of debris inside no scoring and brake shoe still has life . Will assemble next week have taken shoes of one side of car only did not intend dismantling other side hope that’s not necessary

    Will follow your instructions . Assume nurled wheel should turn freely both ways

    strugging to see when the handbrake handle is released how the shoes return . Perhaps this was what caused shoes to stick . Assume for brake pedal pressure the piston moves in our out which I can check . Does the handbrake release also rotate the nurled wheel the other way   Not sure can see it turns at all

    Next

    Okay piston out as moving freely , wife pushed pedal too hard , doesn’t look too bad , boot is cut to fit is this right. Can I push it back if I release bleed screw, were is it.

    still cannot understand the purpose of the knurled wheel is it meant to turn.

    managing to turn a lack of understanding of how this lotus brake works into much more work.

     

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  12. Thanks John . Car been stood for some time appeared to freewheel and initially drive . One wheel then locked and with some stamping on brake and handbrake it released, then stuck again.. stripped down and lots of debris inside no scoring and brake shoe still has life . Will assemble next week have taken shoes of one side of car only did not intend dismantling other side wil was set up work for just one side.

    Will follow your instructions . Assume nurled wheel should turn freely both ways

    strugging to see when the handbrake handle is released how the shoes return . Perhaps this was what caused shoes to stick . Assume for brake pedal pressure the piston moves in our out which I can check . Does the handbrake release also rotate the nurled wheel the other way   if this is not happening it could be the handbrake stay on

     

    Sorry for confusion on simple terms shoes are off one side only . Looking at cylinder and will get wife to slowly lift handbrake and see if anything moves , what should move .

    will then get her to put slight pressure on brake pedal , what should move .

    when I put it back do I really have to do both sides to make handbrake work. 

    Finally what   Do I use to turn the knurled wheel, should it be very loose to turn 

     

     

  13. Thanks Clive I will check the drum again in case I’ve gone mad . Glad to hear brakes  self adjust I will look into how that works as not obvious why brakes were binding solid then only releasing after dragging car wheel under power. 

    Thank for tip on second hand will try to get one and the grease type. Thanks for your help, I  finding the car not as bad as it’s reputation, although it’s much easier when someone has done it before.

  14. This a pic of radius arm , look bad on close up caused by someone using it as a jacking point . seems to be structural so assume MOT fail. Expensive from new painting and welding may repair if i can find someone .Not heavily rusted and crack only one side and not a strong item although assume pretty important if it gives way at speed. Looks to be about 200 quid with vat , ouch. Any suggestions appreciated  as usual seek to  mend a fault find another ....

    One a good point the ujs in the drive shaft look good and have grease nipples. Any best grease suggestions don't want to ruin them.

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  15. Sorry Clive took my impatience to work . I see I have undid more than I should when a mallet would have worked. I will know next time . I will delete my post above in case somebody follows my lead.

    still confused with the knurled wheel , is that the only adjuster and how can it work as the cover is off the brakes. . I can only see I could turn it with the cover off , there is no inspection hole in the brake cover. Is it accessed from the rear of the brake housing , usuallyo MG's etc than have a square drive adjuster on the back of the brake housing . 

    One other thing I notice the triangular large radius arm has been used for jacking and has a crease although looks structually good. Any Idia if this is not pristine it would be a mot fail . 

  16. Had another look and undid the bolt damper to radius arm and then the long bolt radius arm to hub carrier. Cannot believe but turning on one end the bolt came out all 9 inches or so of it. Someone had kindly put two nuts together on one end so it allowed bolt to be threaded through . assembly dropped down allowing the brake cover to be prised off .

    More simple than I thought , socket on drive shaft to brake cover best use small sockets with1/4 inch drive they are smooth and fit. Remove 4 bolts. Undo and extract long bolt radius arm to hub carrier , screw airll way out using two nuts to grip , undo bolt damper to hub carrier. All falls down.

     

    Now lots of debris chocking brake linings. Will renew. Everything moving , handbrake only moves 2 or 3 notches. 

    Question cannot find a brake adjuster as per MG's on back of brake usually 1/3 inch drive . if I fit new shoes how do I adjust so can get drum on and its not tight. Thought the knurled wheel was for handbrake , how can I adjust brakes when drum is on . how many notches ideally suggested for handbrake , I do not want to stretch or break cable , do I turn the knurled wheel ?

     

     

     

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