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Howard Cox

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  • Name
    Howard Cox
  • Car
    Lotus Elite S2.2 current. Esprit S3 n/a (sold) Esprit SE Turbo (sold) Elite 503 (sold) Esprit Turbo Dry Sump (sold) Very last produced Elite S2.2 (sold)
  • Location
    Barry in the Vale of Glamorgan. Wales.

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  1. Thanks guys. Help much appreciated. Your article Tim explains a lot, now I understand more. My problem seems to be either pod relay not switching the live to down mode, or motor internal switch not switching to down mode. Lastly a dicky diode in the motor switch.
  2. Hi again to all, still having gremlins in the works. The headlight pod lifting mechanisms which were working OK decided to stop, then start again, then decided both would come up, but only one would go down. However, left overnight with one up one down, the next day it had gone down on its own. (How does that work?) Anyway, after a long period of neither working I’ve traced the fault to a damaged fuse, which passed a continuity test but in fact the chrome cap end was only making temporary connection with the fuse blade. Replaced with a new fuse unit, the pods worked immediately. Both pods up instantly, 'BUT' only the right came down, left stuck fast in the up position. Left overnight again and in the morning it was back down. So what's going on ? Can’t be power supply, it's ok. Can't be fuse, new one is fine. Can't be relays as pods are lifting OK Can't be pod motors as they're lifting OK. What could possibly cause the motors to only work half cycle, as they're powered up and powered down in one continuously forward cycle (not forward/back cycle) Any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers guys.
  3. Thanks Keith, interesting read. The link I’m sure will be of great help. Both pods were working fine…..then nothing, just stopped completely. Hopefully a bad earth, before relay replacement. So many gremlins on lots of items still not working. Endless. But still smiling. At least I can drive it. Thanks again.
  4. Can somebody tell me the exact location of the two relays which control the headlight pod lifting motors please. Many thanks.
  5. Hi Tim, using test bulb in a bulb holder. Lights fine when connected directly to battery. When fed from harness connection (11.8v) will not Light. Put a multimeter in line and reads 0v.
  6. Thank you Clive for your input. Just realised you're not the previous contributor. Apologies. Will investigate tomorrow.
  7. Thinking on what you suggest, the wiring from the reversing light switch goes to the connector for the rev light bulb, which is reading 11.8v. This voltage appears when I select reverse, (suggesting the switch works) but disappears when I connect a test lamp to Earth. Can't seem to get my head round this, must be missing something. But will try from inlet of switch to Earth via test lamp…….if I can get under the car. I know the Fuel Flow lock valve is working (it's new, I put it in) and it's branched off the reversing light switch inlet as per wiring diagram.
  8. Just the one Peter. The bulb in question is the reversing light bulb (21w) The harness connection to that particular bulb is 11.8v. If connected to a 21w test bulb and straight to Earth terminal, bulb won’t work. If I connect the bulb to the positive terminal bulb works. All winkers work ok, All brake lights work ok, all side lights work ok. Both headlights and beam work ok. (Now the lift motors have stopped, working 2 days ago) ugh !! Neither reverse lights, neither fogs work (though at various tests one of each reverse and fog have worked) Driving me nuts.
  9. Hi Peter, thanks for your reply. I’m measuring voltage with a multi meter. I should say the battery in my diagram is the battery fitted to tge car, not a separate test battery and the output measured is 12.4 v direct off the terminals. I find it hard to believe that just swapping supply source of 12.4v at the +ve at the battery to 11.8v supply from the harness. Also, when connected from the harness supply and the bulb doesn't light up, the meter reading changes to zero. All voltage is lost.
  10. Hi folks. Can someone help me with this please. To me it defies logic. The voltage disappears when connected to a test bulb.
  11. Maybe resolved by now but to me it looks like the pressure exerted by the central release handle is bowing up the two ends causing the leak. Suggest :- reducing the spring pressure bracing the back edge of the lift out panel adding additional overcentre catches at each end. Hope you can get it sorted, good luck.
  12. Thanks everyone. Problem resolved now. New solenoid valve fitted.
  13. I would guess the static pressure exerted by the head of petrol in the tank is sufficient to overcome the upward pressure from the floats keeping the needle valve closed.
  14. Thanks everybody, problem resolved now. Well partially. Cheers Howard
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