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gtookey

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gtookey last won the day on August 19 2018

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About gtookey

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 22/06/1970

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  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    Gavin Tookey
  • Car
    S1 #165H + Stevens MY88, Bosch Injection.
  • Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota USA

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  1. I’m trying the F1 TV app for free at the moment. 7 day trail.
  2. We have a trucking business that takes us all over the U.S. and yes I would say that generally speaking it is much winder than it used too be. The recorded mph of wind gusts are much higher too.
  3. TonyK called me on a Saturday morning and told me to go on eBay and hit the ‘ Buy It Now ‘ button.......so I did. That’s how I got 165H.
  4. Hello Kuba....congratulations on being an S1 owner. The original radiator fan wiring on the S1 had all power going to the fans via a single fuse with no relays. It is very common for this fuse to blow frequently. As your car has had some work already, the fan circuit may have already been upgraded. If not, consider rewiring the circuit so each fan is independently fused and relayed, also consider adding a manual on/off switch.
  5. Just re-reading my post....It doesn’t really come across that the objective is to make the rear of the car higher than the front. So if the car is already up on axle stands, drop the front stands down and increase the height of the rear ones. Idea is to get the radiator at the lowest point so the air is expelled as you fill the system.
  6. When my S1 had the original radiator without the bleed screw, I used to take the front wheels off and lower the front of the car down, supporting the car on the front cross member with axle stands. Also raised the rear up a bit. Filled the expansion take slowly, allowing any air to escape. Ran the car with the expansion cap off and watched for the thermostat to open, then added more coolant as the level dropped. Once topped off, let it run for a bit and then let it cool. With the car back sitting on it’s wheels and level, check the coolant again. It should be about half way up the expansion tank. Never had a problem with air locks using this method.
  7. Good write up Tony. Personally, I do steps 5 to 10 on the first start of each new day. RELIGIOUSLY. I have experienced bad fuel leaks twice and it was just luck there was no fire. The most recent was from the banjo bolts. The fiber washers are designed to be used ONCE, so don’t push your luck. I change fuel lines every two years.
  8. The other killer is long intervals of none use. Having all the tension on the belt in a condensed area can be equally as damaging to the rubber as heat cycles. If your car sits a lot and your using normal grade belts I would not go beyond 3 years. If you want more life then fit the TR104 (blue belt) it’s only $60 USD and IMO worth the extra pennies. My Esprit S1 sits for extended periods due to work commitments. I fitted the blue belt feeling it was the safer option. i reaquired my S1 in August 18 and the belt at that time was 7 years old. The chap I purchased it back from only did 600 miles in 4 years. He was a total hands off owner and had no interest in getting dirty. First thing I did when I got it home was do a belt service. The rubber on the 7 year old belt appeared in good condition with no visible signs of wear. Just looking at it you would say it’s good and doesn’t need changing. The belt was a higher grade one than standard and was supplied by JAE. But prevention is better than cure and no way was I going to risk it.
  9. I use these DampRid products to keep the humidity down.... https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-FG50FS-Hi-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber/dp/B06XJNM5PN/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=damp+rid&qid=1549764548&s=gateway&sr=8-6
  10. JAE or RD Enterprises will have them, about $10. Probably a good time also to replace the O rings on the carb side of the manifold too.
  11. Good video for reference......
  12. Tim you car was ‘refurbished’ at least 3 years ago and the seller was using the car sparingly since then whilst it was for sale. The Bosch CIS fuel system doesn’t respond well to long periods of inactivity. Fuel varnish / emulsion build up being the culprit. As Atwell has mentioned, fuel volume at key points in the system is critical for correct operation. You need to test the system from the pumps forward. If you have a shop in your area that works on older VW, Mercedes, Volvo, SAAB from the 80s they will have the equipment to test the fuel pressures. If not, kits can be be purchased on eBay.
  13. I ordered and just took delivery of a pair of SJ tanks for my 88. SJ tanks are cost effective. I haven’t fitted them yet but comparing them to the old tanks everything looks to be in the right place. They are slightly undersized height wise to help with the install process. Aesthetically they are not as fancy to look at when compared to the other vendor’s higher priced options, but IMO as long as the tank fits and doesn’t leak I’m not bothered how neat and clean the welds are. I saved $400 by ordering from SJs. $400 that can go elsewhere in getting the car back on the road.
  14. Here in South Dakota USA we can have a plate that reads anything we like. As long as it has a maximum of seven letters or numbers and no one else is using it. I used to have ‘ESPRIT’ on 165H, but when I reaquired the car last August I opted for an ‘ Historical Plate’. The Historical plate means you pay no yearly registration/road tax. My 88 has a standard South Dakota plate on it.
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