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gtookey last won the day on August 19 2018

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About gtookey

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  • Birthday 22/06/1970

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  • Name
    Gavin Tookey
  • Car
    S1 #165H + Stevens MY88, Bosch Injection.
  • Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota USA

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  1. I have your car’s twin...
  2. Travis, yes... front thrust washer was bent over in the sump...
  3. Steve, I believe my issue is the result of the circlip failing on the Citroen transmission input shaft and the subsequent load being placed on the crank. The crank being then pushed forwarded resulted in milling the MBP and the rear thrust washer. Once there was enough float the front thrust washer got spat out and ended in the sump. I have have owned the car for 2 1/2 years and driven it maybe 200 miles in it during that period. The PO had paid $6000 for work that included a new input shaft as a result of a ‘grinding noise’ . The car had paper on the repairs so I figured all was good. Test drive before purchase revealed no concerns. I didn’t push it because the timing belt was 10 years old. The car did have a fuel leak. So it needed a belt service and the leak addressed. No biggie. On getting the car home I discovered that both tanks were shot. So the work began to replace them. New tanks in and belt service completed. I drove it and again no issues. Then one day I stated to get first gear selection problems but it was intermittent. It then quickly became more often than not. So I pulled the tranny thinking clutch or throw out bearing but those were good. For some reason I decided to grab the flywheel and give it a pull and a push. It moved about a 1/5 of an inch. So that was it, engine out and start the disassemble process. That revealed a damaged MBP, totally milled and chewed rear thrust washer and milling of the crank thrust flange. I was more upset over having to pull everything apart again after putting it all back together following the tank replacements. The miles I did drive were really good and underlined how much I could enjoy the car. I hate dead cars so seeing it the garage disabled just p***es me off.
  4. I am waiting for Garry Kemp to reply on what he has available.
  5. Steve...... Gavin I have a good block in stock - £600 or £800 fully vapour blasted cleaned and inspected We also have freshly ground and balanced cranks in stock -£600 with matching bearings £250 which you will almost certainly need Regards Mike
  6. I just got a quote through Parcel Monkey and shipping from the UK to the US is approx 310.00 USD
  7. Thanks Thomas, greatly appreciate you going to the trouble. Those measurements help immensely. Out of interested, do you recall what the shipping cost were on your replacement crank from Gary Kemp?
  8. If the engine passes the usual used car strange noises on cold start, no smoke, good oil pressure and has good compression. Being as the seller is a mechanic a compression test should be easy. Then I would by it. It looks good.
  9. Dave, so hope you are able to buy it back. Best of luck.
  10. Hello and welcome. When you say cylinder do you mean the block? Any performance car engine can fail for any reason at anytime, if you have the history behind the failure and the reason for the block swap that would be the important thing. Having documented history gives the car pedigree and that is just as important as matching numbers. So an enthusiast would not really be worried about it. Diehard collectors like matching numbers cars.. The more important thing is the quality of the rebuild. What was replaced in the rebuild and the quality of the components used. It is very important to get the paperwork on the rebuild. Without it the value of the car is lower in my opinion. The 84 cars I believe used aluminum pistons which I understand we’re not up to the job. So try and find out if upgraded pistons were installed. Best of luck!
  11. Anybody have max and min measurements for the flange? Or just be able to measure the flange on a good crank. Need to find out how knackered mine is and how much material the shop needs to add to bring it back to spec. thanks in advance.
  12. Appreciate the replies gents. The shop that is going to repair my block was on the ones that suggested repairing the crank rather than sourcing a replacement. A used crank in the U.S. is like mega $$$ and shipping from LotusBits is equivalent mega $$$. I need to talk to the crank people on Monday so don’t have a full grasp on the process. will post updates once I am in the know.
  13. What are people’s thoughts on this? I am being told the thrust flange on my 910 crank, once ground smooth again, will be too thin to be serviceable. It can be sent to a specialist to have material added then ground back to spec. The crack is ‘pinned’ during the process to avoid warping. Good idea or not?. Thanks in advance.
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