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gtookey last won the day on August 19 2018

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About gtookey

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  • Birthday 22/06/1970

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  • Name
    Gavin Tookey
  • Car
    S1 #165H + Stevens MY88, Bosch Injection.
  • Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota USA

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  1. If you are really concerned, disconnect the electrical sender unit and connect a manual gauge. If it reads good then you can adjust the way you read the dash gauge accordingly.
  2. On my S1.....startup cold...takes about 3 seconds to register, needle goes almost to maximum. Once warm and at idle the needle sits mid way between minimum and halfway. Driving....the needle sits just under maximum pressure.
  3. gtookey


    I really like that color combination. Unusual for a Stevens?
  4. From what I understand...keep the auto tensioner because you have a square toothed belt / sprockets. The early Jensen supplied engines were fitted with a manual tensioner and a square toothed belt / sprockets, it is this set up that had belt jump issues. The auto tensioner was the solution to this issue. It was only when Lotus started using the round toothed belt / sprocket that the manual tensioner was reintroduced. The rounded tooth design is way better and unlikely to jump as long as the correct tension is applied. Even loose belts will not jump...I know from experience.
  5. I just like carbs. I think a Turbo Esprit on twin Dellorto’s is just engineering coolness.
  6. Has anybody here done it? I’m thinking about it. Looking at the parts manual almost all the engine internals are the same. Fuel tanks are the same. It should be a matter of finding a used set of carbs with manifold, a new fuel pump and regulator. Wiring could be an issue but the CIS is stand alone and doesn’t really interface with the any other systems. Anyone have any thoughts?
  7. Speaking with Claudius yesterday, the above kit is still available. Price is $800 USD. It solves the engine mount issue so probably worth the investment. If we could organize a group buy I’m sure we could get a better price. Would anybody be interested?.
  8. gtookey


    Very sorry.
  9. I had this happen to me yesterday on my S1. If you don’t have a helper to crank the engine at the key put the car in 5th gear and push it forward. With the distributor cap off you, should see the rotor arm turn anti clockwise. If the rotor arm isn’t turning then the distributor is not fully engaged and obviously no spark and your timing will be totally out of whack. To reset the timing...set the engine to TDC, making sure that the cams are also aligned. With the distributor seated probably the rotor arm will be at #1 firing position. Attach the distributor cap and insert cylinder #1 lead to the port that corresponds to the position of the rotor arm. Then insert the other leads in the correct firing order 3-4-2, working in an anti clockwise direction. This will then allow the engine to fire, maybe a bit rough but fire at least. From this point you need a timing light to set the timing correctly. Having a no fire engine is very frustrating. Wishing you good luck.
  10. Interior is S1. Most likely a ‘Lotus By Claudius’ car. Probably moded in the 80s when owners wanted to update the look of the early cars after the Turbo came Stateside.
  11. I’m trying the F1 TV app for free at the moment. 7 day trail.
  12. We have a trucking business that takes us all over the U.S. and yes I would say that generally speaking it is much winder than it used too be. The recorded mph of wind gusts are much higher too.
  13. TonyK called me on a Saturday morning and told me to go on eBay and hit the ‘ Buy It Now ‘ I did. That’s how I got 165H.
  14. Hello Kuba....congratulations on being an S1 owner. The original radiator fan wiring on the S1 had all power going to the fans via a single fuse with no relays. It is very common for this fuse to blow frequently. As your car has had some work already, the fan circuit may have already been upgraded. If not, consider rewiring the circuit so each fan is independently fused and relayed, also consider adding a manual on/off switch.
  15. Just re-reading my post....It doesn’t really come across that the objective is to make the rear of the car higher than the front. So if the car is already up on axle stands, drop the front stands down and increase the height of the rear ones. Idea is to get the radiator at the lowest point so the air is expelled as you fill the system.
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