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Craig Red Evora

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  1. You have to replace the whole latch assembly as the switch is buried inside. It's not cheap as you can see on deroure. Have you tried WD40 to try and free it up? it worked on mine, it was the other way round though, the car didn't know the door was open. Do a search for door latch, there are whole threads about it with various things to try.
  2. I had the Alpine 505r with the removable 'blackbird' hand held Sat Nav. The aerial you spotted plugged straight into the head unit. I swapped for a Pioneer Android auto unit so the phone now does it all. The old Alpine weighed a ton so good to get rid.
  3. The reversing camera on the Evora gets it's power from the reversing light circuit. Therefore it is only powered on when the car is in reverse. The head unit override will work all the time but there will be no video reaching the head unit unless the car is in reverse. Craig.
  4. Only a few thousand to the magic number, don't forget to take another pic. This was in a Subaru Legacy which went on to 156000 before I upgraded to the Evora which now has 60100 on the clock.
  5. They go into holes in the fiberglass moulding below the windscreen. If you look at the pictures in my original post, particularly the fourth one down you can see the holes. In the dash are metal pins with a rubber covering cap. Two of the caps on mine had split at the end so I ordered replacements. They will go on as part of the final refit in a couple of weeks. I should really buy a commuting car then I could get all this stuff done and not have to worry about the Evora being out of action. I would miss driving it everyday though I think!
  6. Apologies for the delayed reply, been away on holiday. I didn't break any clips removing the dash. I bought a set of trim removal tools online so had all the correct levers to get under the clips and pull them out. If you are just removing for investigation you should be fine. I had to strip the dash for it to be recovered and discovered that the face level vent brackets had all gone brittle and disintegrated. It is not possible to remove the vents without either breaking the brackets or pulling the screws out of the dash. The adjustable vent part clips into the cowling after the cowling is screwed to the dash. Once clipped in you can't un-clip it and it conceals all the fixings. My vents always sat proud of the dash and just pulled out because the brackets were in bits. I had to glue the bits back together so that I could use that as a pattern to make new aluminium ones. New cowlings are only £19 each so not bad but the plastic could fail again in a couple of years so I fixed the ones I had. It makes such a difference having the cowlings tight to the dash now rather than sticking up at the front. Here are some pics of the state of the leather on the old dash and one of the glued back together brackets and the new aluminium ones. Another tip, rather than leave the boot lid up all the time I had the battery disconnected, I put a piece of pipe insulation over the catch so it couldn't accidentally latch shut. Saves having to use the emergency release. Those who are lucky enough to have a garage that fits an Evora won't need to worry but as it was sat on the drive I thought it best to have the boot lid resting in a lowered position until I finished at the end of the day and reconnected the battery. Hoping to do the final tidy up in a couple of weeks then it will all finally be back together properly.
  7. I don't think you can see it no, the angle is wrong, you definitely can't get to it. I will be able to give a better answer in a couple of weeks when I take it apart again.
  8. Hi Sellman The down side of enjoying the Evora as my everyday car is that I cannot be without it. It took over six and a half hours to get the dash and door cards back in and it wasn't easy. The leather was a different thickness (so hopefully harder wearing) but this made everything tighter so I am still not happy with the fit. I basically got it back together so I could use the car but it all needs to come back out so I can spend more time fitting it better. I just haven't had the time recently. In a couple of weeks I have some days set aside to do it so can post some pictures then. I have kept it original so to be honest it won't look that different to any other Evora it just isn't lifted shrunk and peeling off! Jairaj (electro_boy) I had four bolts left over due to rushed reassembly! I know exactly where they go and to Lotus's credit even without them I have no squeeks or rattles!
  9. Collecting all the parts tomorrow so let's hope I can get it all back together again. You always have some screws left over though right?
  10. The air bag cover was the only part of the dash that hadn't lifted. The clips were in good condition and released easily from below. I have my suspicions the dash has been out before as a lot of the fixings were loose so they may have been changed already.
  11. It took about two and a half hours, the worst bit was the brushed aluminium trim panels. The most delicate part of the dash is held on with the strongest clips! You can get to the back of the lower clip on the panel to the right of the steering wheel by removing the lower leather trim panel and push it from behind. That made it a lot easier. I basically just followed the description in the service notes for the whole process. I was very cautious with the passenger air bag, disconnected the battery before I started so it all had time to discharge before I touched it.
  12. Just in case anyone is curious about whats under the Evora's dashboard, here are some pics. I have removed mine and taken it to be re-trimmed. I recently swapped the old Alpine for a new Pioneer head unit so am taking the opportunity to tidy up the wiring and remove the hidden Alpine bits, there is a lot of excess wire bundled up. If anyone wants any specific info or particular pictures let me know. It's all going back together on Wednesday.
  13. I replaced the ARB bushes in mid March with the latest spec Lotus ones and it transformed the car. No more clonks and it felt so much more stuck to the road and inspired confidence. I replaced the drop links a month later the same theory as Scotsdave, belts and braces. It's now June and the car is clonking just as much as it did before I changed everything. I drive it daily and my commute is a round trip of roughly 48 miles and includes the awful Surrey section of the M25 with its concrete surface. So three months and just under 3000 miles and I need to replace the bushes again! They were covered in red rubber grease when I installed them as I had already read that lubrication was an issue. The bar was in good condition with no rust or marks so I guess the rubber just gets beaten into submission by the bad road surfaces and becomes soft. The OEM ones aren't expensive but less than 3000 miles and they have had it is a bit ridiculous. Going to order the Powerflex ones and hope they last longer.
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