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so the time has come for me to put my beloved esprit out to pasture. I'm just not sure where/how to sell it or how much I should ask for it. For those who don't know my car here it is: http://www.espritproject.com It has a NY rebuilt title, about 40k miles and a new timing belt at 33k miles. Other upgrades: -Saturn wheels with new toyo T1S tires -Rebuilt Super60 turbo -Blittz DSBC boost controller -Refinished interior The motor ran perfect the last time i drove the car, about 8 months ago. The gas tanks both leak and the car runs off a 10 gallon racing cell mounted behind the motor. I have 2 replacement tanks that will be sold with the car. I have a 911 turbo on the way and I need my garage space. Can anyone give me some pointers on how much I should ask for this car?? I really just want it gone!

if you have a clean record give geico a call. I originally have allstate $1900 / 6 months and they wouldnt give me collision on the esprit since it was an older car. I switched to geico $1150 / 6 months for comprehensive coverage which no other insurer would even give me. So in other words.. I switched to geico and saved a bunch of money on my car insurance!

I second this option.. dont forget the yellow brakes! God its great to see lambo making sexy cars again

what do you guys think of this car? http://www.ppidesign.com/ click on events -> essen 2007 and check out the R8 Razor. This is my best friends company and he makes QUALITY products. The entire body kit was wind tunnel tested and retails for just under $20k. I'm just looking for some unbiased opinions before i put a deposit on an R8 and have him build me one of his razors.

one mans trash is another mans treasure.. i see a handful of fantastic restoration projects there. Wonder how much that dilapidated miura would sell for???

I did this as my winter project last year. I used SEM sure-coat mixed to a "camel" color to match some ultrasuede i was putting in the car. One thing to remember.. these products are not dyes.. they are an "elastomeric coating" which is fancy talk for elastic paint. This works out ok if you are touching up some faded seats but to be honest the color change that i did kinda looks like ass once you get up close. It takes many many coats to get a solid color you will be left with leather that looks and feels like its been painted. I did this more as a learning project then anything else and at the time i really couldnt afford new leather. It is an ok way to fix otherwise trashed leather but keep in mind that it is nothing like real new leather. On the plus side.. the SEM products generate no smells (leatherique smells like crayons on hot days), did not fade at all, has not cracked or peeled and did a beautiful job of filling cracks and wrinkles. Better yet.. let me go into the garage and snap some pics! Sorry in advance for the pic quality.. my camera battery is dead so i had to use my phone (no flash) Passenger door panel Passenger seat Console and dash I pulled a headrest off and brought it in to take some pics: Original color underneath Closeup.. you can see the paint actually fills the seam between the leather and the cheap plastic lotus piping. again.. from a couple of feet back it looks great and feels just like real leather. But if you are a perfectionist spend the extra bucks to have a shop redo the leather from scratch. Also if you want to do this the right way use the SEM products. I found a local paint supply house to mix the color i wanted and bottled it up for me in a couple of hours. Their prep products are also second to none. I learned about this stuff from friends that owned car dealerships.. they use it to restore the original color so it goes on very thin and is almost impossible to notice. To put things in perspective there are probably 10 coats on any given area in my car.

thats exactly right.. the solenoid could be broken which is why it was disconnected in the first place.

have mine hanging in the garage for the past couple of years. Only put it on when i wash the car or if i think it might rain. Besides the increased noise I haven't noted any differences in performance or operating temps. Seems like a good bit of weight reduction as well. I also run without a trunk floor again with no ill effects noted.

overpriced for an aluminum and leater seat with a fixed back. you can buy a pair of nice adjustable seats on ebay and have a leather place upholster them to your linking for a far cheaper price.

You can fit a really big K&N cone filter into the factory airbox. That plus the "ram air" mod should be the optimum setup. This is on my list of projects for next week.

This is why owning a welder and some stainless tube doesn't make anyone an exhaust builder. Thats part of the reason you have so much popping in the exhaust and all that extra O2 is helping light off the overrun. I dont know your setup tp know where the O2 sensor is mounted but if its far enough down the exhaust that its being effected by what the muffler is doing then thats a whole other problem.

My car came with ebc greens but I changed over to porterfield R4S compund pads and they are absolutely amazing in comparison. My car is an S4 with brembo setup I highly recommend these pads. Do some research on the internet, there are very few people that are happy with ebc pads and many that love the R4S pads.

So a while back my passenger side (usa) tank rusted through and started dripping fuel. Once i diagnosed the problem I made a quicky workaround by mounting a small racing cell in the rear of my car just so I can avoid this nightmare job until I had the time. Well now it seems I have the time as well as a refinished set of tanks waiting to go in! I just have a few reservations.. 1. The lotus tanks are monstrously heavy. I fail to see the logic in using heavy gauge steel which is prone to rust and complete overkill given the location of the tanks and the high number of joints/seems. I am not putting the lotus tanks back in. There are just too many better ways to build a better mousetrap here. 2. There are lots of off the shelf polyethylene (plastic) tanks that will fit in that location. RCI makes an 8 gallon cell thats a perfect fit and a slightly taller 12 gallon tank should squeeze in as well. 3. The first option is a pair of 8 gallon tanks (they are 17"x17"x8") which would require lines to take fuel and vapors back and forth. The purist in me wants to do it this way so I can talk about "balance" and "engineering" 4. The second option is to put a single 12 (17"x17"x11") gallon tank on the passenger (right) side and use the cavity on the left to mount a nice dual core oil cooler setup with a fan, ducting, and direct air draw from under the car. This will be overbuilt and heavy enough to at least partially offset the weight of the single fuel tank on the other side. I figure my portly self will further contribute to correcting the weight imbalance. At ~6 pounds a gallon you're looking at 60 pounds of added weight to the right side of the car. You can half that once you add in the weight of the oil cooler apparatus. Can someone give me a good reason to not go with #4?? PS I'm going to cut the old tanks out with a plasma cutter. Wish me luck.

the coils are plain old GM dis coils.. i bought mine from summit but I've seen them at pepboys and autobarn. Made a noticeable difference in low rpm smoothness so you might as well just replace them.

sorry no dice.. there are nicer racing mirrors out there.. if i were you I'd swap em for some door mounted APR racing mirrors.