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pureguava

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Posts posted by pureguava

  1. Yes It’s the video - it sounds a lot, lot better in real life but I can’t kid myself that it sounds better than a v8 / 10 / 12.  

    I have run almost every set up - straight pipe , small bullet resonator, twin resonators 2 inch , 3 inch etc - in my opinion the best sound is what I run now with twin straight resonator and a 3 inch exhaust - and the car runs so much better.

    I found a straight system used to be too much of the unpleasant notes in the cabin

    I will post some more vids - (that one was the only one I had and more to show some flames!)and hopefully others will send some in too 

    The other thing I really like about my allunox set up is the exhaust comes out even both sides 

  2. Hi 

    easy to check the the gauge - find the sender ( it’s a brass sensor on the big aluminium pipe in the engine bay just under the highest point of the timing belt in the left hand side as you look into the bay ) then with ignition on but car not running unhook the wire and ground it to something ( like the pipe ) and the gauge should go to far right.  
     

    if it does not your gauge is sticking.   
     

    if it is not the gauge you probably have an incorrect sender - it’s impedance to temperature is too high. If this is  the case order the right one.......

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  3. Hi

    just fitted protech shocks and lotac poly bushes after a full suspension overhaul - now my front sits far too high and looks pretty stupid.  
     

    I loaded the car with 140kg and half a tank to torque all the bolts/ 

    Now the stupid question - the bottom coil rest can be adjusted ( wound up or unwound down ) does this just change the pre-load or does it indeed adjust height?  And if it adjusts height do I wind them up or unwind them down to lower the ride height ...... and if that does not adjust height is there anyway to do it? I apologise for my ignorance but I have going suspension is often counter intuitive!!

    Thanks for all help on this ! 

     

     

  4. Hello

    2000 V8-GT 

    all seems to be fine down low and no CEL or codes ...... when I really floor it and get above 5000 revs I get what seems to be a miss fire - The engine kinda looses smooth acceleration  and a bit of loss of power. It’s only above 5000 rpm 

    I wonder if it’s coil packs / plugs / leads so I will change these.......

    Any other ideas ? 

  5. Excellent thanks !  
     

    so this is my setup 

    Stud: 

    6mm front washer

    3mm rear washer 

    top ball joint

    7.5mm shims front 

    4.5mm shims rear 

    As you say 12 and 9mm total.  
    Thanks so much Sailorbob 

    Last question - the snubber washers seem not a “mirror image” as I would expect on the layout picture. In the front it’s snubber washer against bushing .... in the rear it’s the castor washer against the bushing - is this correct ? 

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

  6. Sailorbob - thanks for reply and forgive my late night post relying on memory! - you were correct - I went back through the pictures I took and I have made a mistake :

    Infront shims were 7.5mm ( 3 x 2 and a 1.5mm ) 
    Rear shims were 4.5mm ( 3mm and a 1.5mm) 

    Total 12mm for castor shims 

    The castor washers will b measured - should add to 9mm correct?

    with the 10.5mm I was talking about the  Camber plates. 

    Sounds correct ? 
     

     

  7. Double post in the Stephens and V8 section as it’s applicable to both and trying to find someone who might know...

     

    I got the bumper off for a respray and the side skirts look little bit “ sand blasted “ towards the front and could do with a freshen up ......they look like they are a combination of bonded and riveted on there and look a bit tricky to remove / replace 

    Has anyone removed them ? Any pointers ? How difficult to do this / replace 

    thanks again!

  8. Hello again. 
     

    thanks for all replies for my previous questions - sorry if this answered somewhere but I can’t find it - even in the service manual?

    i want to replace  the front brake shields on the S4S and it see I need to remove the hub..... I have the uprights / brake assembly on the bench - have removed the discs ( very easy one hex headed bolt ) and have removed the main (30mm socket head) nut 

    I can’t find any info on removing the hub from upright stub axle 

    I suspect it drifts out with some careful hammer blows ..... any tips ? 

     

  9. Bushes.  The ones in the suspension. Not those seen in the garden or in magazines in bushes in the 80s......

    I have just removed them all.   The ones in the front lower wishbone were well and truly seized in there ( metal part of bushing had welded itself to the bolt) so very very much fun to remove.......   and it got me thinking ——as  the bushing does not spin on the bolt ( and I guess that’s why they are bushings and not bearings this allows them to weld themselves into the bolt. 
     

    I was going to put anti seize grease on the  bolt incase I have to come back - is this actually a good idea? Will it encourage slippage of the bolt ? Or will the torque of the nut be enough to mitigate this ? 

  10. Well I am now a member of this horrible horrible club - and I did it with one single tool! Can you guess what the tool was? 

     After psyching  myself up to do this for a while and in lock down I decided to do it. 

    Massive thanks to 
    mr.oogieboogie

    For his fantastic write up. 

    Mine is a 1996 S4S that is ex Northern England and it’s original ( and now thankfully very few) metal fixings aren’t even trying to look like there original selves - instead they look like furry browny black blobs with fuzzy poles of similar material poking out the top. 
     

    Anyway after only 4 glorious hours of extreme yoga and contortionist feats it’s off!! My favourite bit was those two bolts furtherest up the under the wings with all the ABS tripe and relays cutting into your head on the right side and for some unknown reason a small riveted in plate on the other just to obscure your vision..... 

    Due to the horrific rust I had to take the bumper / valance off together.  I also found removing the bonnet a massive help. 

    The car is now permanently dry stored and has emigrated to a non salted road land and has a full set of stainless fixings and aluminium plates waiting for installation- so next time it will be a breeze?!? 

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