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Roberto Esprit

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Posts posted by Roberto Esprit

  1. Hey Guys. Since there is a lot of interest yall dont mind waiting till after christmass do you? Ill buy a proper brake. I was going to hand bend them which is fine for a small batch but repeatability is an issue. but with so many people wanting them I can shell out for a brake. Stainless if I dont do anything special for the hinge most likely I can meat or beat OEM. Especially since the JPY is much lower then the euro and pound at the moment. I will be attempting a hand bent set on my 1990 as a prototype but I wont be shipping anything hand made since there is so much interest. I would rather do them in a brake. I need the brake for my hobby anywho. Again an issue is drilling the brackets but I can drill them I just would rather you guys who have a drill press do your own but that will be up to the individual. Supplier is looking like china not that steel as of late has been coming out of anywhere decent. If anyone knows a good german supplier I would much rather use that stuff. But its all dollar per dollar or euro per euro.

    Also furthermore I dont live in hongkong... I live in Japan. Dunno how the profile got that way. :D

    Anyways guys this will happen and dont feel bad to poke me with a PM if you want your set sooner.


    EDIT: Forgot I to mention I am shooting to use 2 mil but well see once I get it prototyped how it fits.

    Someone get me a few photos of their brackets off the car. I want to confirm a few things.

  2. After a lot of reading I am choosing ID1050's as they are just upgraded ID 1000s and the 850's are just shorter ID1050's... And AND... A Haltech along with a plenum that does not support secondairy injection along with a walbro 400 and a rising rate FPR. 


    But I need something better than the factory that can be bought second hand as a bandaid. FOR THE HALTECH. Its just a lot of money alll at once. the total bill on upgrading the fuel system will be..... 1800$ That does not include a custom rail wires or any of the new plenum charge cooler ect ect. Just need some bandaids that will be a lot more precise. The reason for wanting to do this soon is I am tired of the whoop whoop vacuum pump paired with missing idle  the norm for this ECM paired with a not so good 02 sensor.  < Let me explain it real good for the purists. I have full intentions of dropping in this ECM before winter is up along with a brand new hand made loom. I am doing glass for my new intake plenum tonight if your in the U.S. time. I also have 4 Brand new 02 sensors that wont work great with the current ECM. Its going in the car. SOON!

  3. Cool deal bro. Yeah I dont wish doing custom molded skins on anyone. Its not the time nor is it expensive its all the times you make a mistake and know that you are going to have to repeat the process on the other side. BTW thanks for learing up that it was the " Rears" that were moved to the doors and not the dash.

    I got some of the wrong clay on the template today. Glass tomorrow.


  4. Glyn! Thats what I did lol. I refuse to use polyester after using vinylrster. The stuff is chem resistant and marginally stronger but not as hard as a true epoxy.

    Also ramjet. Dude this is my first set of totally custom door skins. This is actually a great project and the best part is having the door skin off the esprit does not make it un operational. My car is a DD and budget is tight.... Hence why I am about to have a bunch of guys chasing me with pitchforks if I dont order some material soon... :X

    Let me tell you what guys putting a higher door handle and arm rest makes a big deal as far as opening and closing goes. Also any S4 or V8 owners please feel free to tell me about your door speakers as I am having trouble picturing the space for the speakers.... I got my mid and tweeter posistioned... Audi factory spot because of space restrictions in the esprit but the woofer is another deal entirely. I am out of foam and dont have any clay so I am down to gluing what I got until tomorrow if I can sneak away from a party quick enough. Also I will post the entire process once I do the passenger side on youtube.

  5. I really want to know the list on the originals I dont want to ask to much but I dont want to get hosed either. I am going to try to go with 2 mil grade 1 titanium. I have to buy all the stuff to do the titanium stuff so probably not until all the christmass crap is over. The sheets are looking like 100USD a pop... thats just the metal. I am looking for ball bearings skinny enough or a decent enough bushing. The idea is it being a forever part not something that gets wallowed out. I know the deal with heating the titanium.

    Also a bit of news I am fabbing some door skins for mine ect ect so I been busy and I broke a bone in my foot at work today. Still have not ordered stainless for the first set and it was supposed to happen three days ago. Someone please get me an original price. I will be prototyping a set then I will know what to charge. Itll be cheap hopefully I am crossing my fingers but I want to beat the list price for oem if I can. The reason I cant get a list is England is quite long distace and in japan its next to impossible. I will look now online but I have been having trouble locating them...

  6. So this looks a lot different right now..... The only reason I do not have it mounted right now is its pouring rain and I have to disassemble the audi door to get the cable for the door pull. I ended up using the audi center as it has a nice burl piece and red lighting... IE I wish I didnt have to cut up the door so much to fit it because I would have used the whole top section including the speaker grille for the mid as its the only sensible location for it.

    Whats done: Got a glass template made up. Got the audi parts bolted to the template. got the top bar to clear the binnacle. Also figured out the audi stock location is the correct location for the mids as the angle of the dangle and the mass of the @$$ are correct!

  7. So I got these audi parts. Dunno if this a repost sorry if it is delete this and PM me. I am working a lot so I dunno...

    Anyway. The audi had some sick mids  that are 14 years newer than the Esprit along with nice silk tweeters good enclosures and some 5 inch woofers with huge coils. The woofer pods didnt fit in the door so I am not going to do that. But as you can see in the photo I have handles that have mounts for the tweeters. with the door closed the driver side is pointed at the wheel but could be finessed to hit off the space between the driver and passenger. I am thinking about eliminating the dash speakers as from what I have read and seen having them there is a horrible idea. However I may add a center channel. as Probably after adding the custom doors I will be doiing a custom dash. The stock one not only is full of steel but I have a climate system I want to use. I should work out a fair trade between the weight I loose and gain. 

    Guys where would you put the mids? They are small like 3 inch but they have a great driver and an enclosure. I lied... The cone is 2in across and the enclosure comes to 2.5 inch. but they can put up. I tested them on my home theater and they took all I could give without breaking up. BTW the tweeters are capped and I wont be investing in the audio again for like another year so I am really looking for a solution with what I got. I am not afraid to massage the fiberglass door surround.

    Also the fiberglass template is curing in my garage attic right now. If I am lucky and it cures in this cold I am going to hook up the cable to the latch tomorrow and do the foaming on the car as well as massage the plastic so it does not rub the binnacle. The arm rest sits perfect!


  8. Have the originals.. Like the books.. Just.. slipped my tiny mind. BTW there is nothing but the motor behind the rain flap its accessable easily if you did the two din mod. Also the space under the passenger side of the dash for the rear. .... So procedure for lube is as followe: 1: Pull radio 2. spray the shite outta the cables. 3. Replace radio.


    The problem is this fixed nothing on the real trouble maker knob the selector. I am going to install a stepper possibly just man up and install climate control. I realized putting an audi unit in would be a lot more work than its worth because of the dual zone.. but maybe I am going to look into an arduino unit two steppers and a PWM.


    Forgot to say why it didnt work: its just the nature of the pulls I am pretty sure. I thikn maybe they were like this new as there was a healthy ammount of grease on the cables. Now the whole control unit is greased...

  9. Posted in lotus talk with one not so helpful answer. I really want to shut the car up and possible cut some weight or break even.

    The OEM stuff in my car is starting to let go but isnt there yet and is savable.

    I only know that there is asphalt peel n seal which isnt reccomended. Dynamat and hushmat. New dynamat is supposed to be butyl. I imagine it would hold up great on floors and as an added claim it transfers heat less. I really want to know because this is a mod I would like to do now.


    As far as weight I will be loosing a lot in the engine bay and possibly off the front end.


    If it isnt obvious I want an answer from a not dealer is this stuff better than what is stock or at least some pros and cons. Google isnt helping I only get that its better than another aftermarket brand or that its better than nothing or better than a stock f250..

  10. Well audi used to be actually good until they decided to play with the oil system the stupif F****... I mean it sprays oil out of the cam adjuster solenoid because I took it off and they use some special crimp you would need to look very carefully before removal to notice. Then the whole going back to chain drive and putting it to the rear of the engine.... It kind of sealed me off from wanting anything they make that is new. Its .ike the good engineers died. Audi came from a horror show and looks like it will end that way... Now my 90's cars were freaking great. I eather put half a million miles on the trannys and killed them that way or sold em or that one time I erm... crashed... through lots of stuff...

    But used to be good... the car was supposed to last a few years... But the lotus was partially bought because that car sucked so bad :D

  11. The fact that my British made lucus wired lotus that I forgot to install the plug boot back on started and ran today with only a rough idle and sluggush go but yet it ran way way better than my OTHER... Car made in Germany by the brand I trust the most... My Audi 3.2 chain driven grandfather clock car has to be the second worst car I have ever had.


    Just BTW: I have put thousands and thousands of miles on many other audis its just this car!!!

  12. Hey John if you want to build a set I would bet there are like 5 buyers depending on the cost. I dont have the mill. And under MM perfect not mm perfect guys. There is no effing way you would want a mil out on your latch I bet the factory stuff is up to a mil out and that leads to why my hatch is just a bit harder to close than it should.

    I think the only reason to do titanium is literally to say so. you know if you wanted em and sure they would be indeed strong. I am wondering how hard it would be to incorpirate a bearing. I have been trying to find a good bush or pivot but quite frankley stuff is on hold. I am waiting to shell out the next months lotus payment and see what I have so unless we got an ok price and a list of ten or more buyers I aint taking a break from my intake plenum project for this. I am serious guys who wants em?

    The other forum got zero responses.

    Another thing is... This is where this conversation goes out of my domain in a hurry. These latches could be made from an aluminum alloy if one wanted but... It would have to be done in cad or by someone who damn well knew their stuff with strength a term that is hard to define on paper without testing. Aluminum can be strong and probably stronger than the factory hinges but I am not doing it.


  13. Allright.... Let me poke around. How much are the originals and how much is fair for an upgrade?

    The hinges are borderline horrible. the only reason I say they arent is mine seem to be working really nice.

      I think maybe just maybe I can hand bend them if I buy a few more tools or can source a brake if its a small batch. The only thing is ya would need to either A drill the holes your self of B have my buddy do them on his drill press or C another forum member could slot them on a milling machine laser or water jet. Because I am real interested in a set my self.

    The only reason I ask about money is if I make a set for me money and time arent a big deal. If I make a set for yall I would hate to spend too much on em and either you dont want em or feel burned.

  14. So.... This leather sucks to work with... It's not the leather that sucks its the coating they used. I stil dunno what it is. It behaves like acrylic. If these guys are suggesting something because it worked for them I suggest it. I used a mixture of dye and shoe polish to do a similar spot. I forgot where it is it was a bit off but hey as I said I forgot where it is so good enough. I had huge pieces of top layer missing on the center council cover. That I used what I think is an acrylic dye by cova. Its too flat and I dont know what I want to use for a clear yet but yeah man it has to be the strangest stuff I have worked with. I dunno if you are keeping your upper leather by the windshield but that was a few hours to get it from dingy Grey to a nice black. Good luck man. I didn't have none.


    I should do more than complain.

    I washed it down with mild soap because at the time I didn't have saddle soap. First I tried dye. It slightly colored the brown parts but it was too light and instead of blending slid off. Spray dye has a solvent that loosens the paint too much and causes a mess of shades. I then resorted to a thicker dye paste and polish. It worked not beautifully but it worked. IT has been a few months and honestly it looks much nicer than the rest of the car which I shoot down with mink oil.

  15. So this is probably my fault 100% but I think I remember it being stiff. The hot cold selector isnt by any means easy to turn either. I couldnt get the detent down when I removed the knob for the defrost/footwell selector. I had to break it in half strangely that give me enough clearance to use a bigger piece of metal to push the button and it freed up. The issue is when I made aluminum knobs with molded resin cores this side is so hard to turn it takes all my stregnth and it busted the resin up. I can turn it slightly easier with the factory knob but not much. What gives? Did I mangle it? Just old? or are they all like that? Is there a fix? I really dont want all aluminum round knobs and one chromed stock piece. Ill rip it all out and put a whole system in if thats the case.

  16. Hey Dave I want you to know I read this front to back. It's informative to say the least. This is the kind of work I can do. It takes nothing more than time and patience. Like a big model. I am not in any way downing your work. I think it is a fantastic job. Much better than 97 percent of builders who always leave sags and rusty junk on the car. But I am much more interested in your car. I hope that we can meet some day. 4 days from this post I get my Turbo SE which is the same color as this car.

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