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tom kilner

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  • Name
    tom kilner
  • Car
    elite 503
  • Modifications
    spaghetti wiring and bubbly paint
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  1. It's 1/2" 165mm length bolt30mm threaded unf. This is the lamdrover part mentioned above, listed i think on the spreadsheet.
  2. If you get a few washers you could tighten the drum onto the diff output shaft without the drive shaft in the way. You could tighten the bolts down evenly and see where the problem is. I wonder if you get to the point of it seizing up, then back off again and rotate the drum, you could see if the drum is going squint as you tighten down. This would cause it to jam and could easily be unnoticeable with the driveshaft in the way if you can't spin the drum. The output shaft might have a nick in out catching the inner flange of the drum. As for the postage and packing though, most suppliers charge the same by weight whatever the value - the courier cost and handling is pretty similar. you're more likely to get free carriage on gold plated wheel nuts than a single h.t. bolt
  3. The tidy stainless lb replacements probably weigh less than the portion of the rusty angle iron that was still left bolted to the car. I think rear seatbelt mounts were fitted after the lightness thingy had left the building. Thosw bolts are so large though I'm tempted by some quality titanium fasteners here!
  4. Thanks Mike handbrake cable fitted, and I've routed the fuel line - new original lotus nylon item, because it fits through the grommets and under the clips, and my 40 year old nylon stuff was still working, so it might outlive me, although I know it's not popular. - also I refitted the fuel cut off valve in the engine bay as it provides a handy terminus for the nylon pipe after a good straight run. Maybe I'd have put it in the boot if I'd read this earlier though I'll need a fuel filter on the boot end of the fuel pipe - I think my car had one in the engine bay too but I don't see why.
  5. Now from stainless to copper. Just trying to remember to do everything I need to before refitting the diff. Perhaps just the handbrake cables and propshaft to fit. All heavily greased.
  6. So the new bolt from sj is ready, and I've fitted a grease nipple so in 2059 the bolt will come out, assuming it's been greased every coupe of years. Whilst under the car and advised by lb Mike I replaced the rear seatbelt mounts. Cheap at 40 quid the pair in stainless including bolts. Grinder powered by the sun! - I've got a 25w panel, charge controller, 100ah leisure battery and an inverter to give 230v - claims 1500w available. Saves running 50m of extension cable for a five minute job. Four five minute jobs in fact. I think the hard part is not setting the car interior on fire grinding through those welded 17mm bolt heads.
  7. And the next unsurprising things... For the rear seatbelt bolt to pull out of the mounting would still take considerable force as it would have to rip a 2 inch hole in the body to get the welded nuts out. That much force would definitely have ripped these babies apart.
  8. Oil 5000 or 2 years Nothing else unless I'm working on that system, or it's running low. this includes coolant, brake fluid, screen wash, power steering, hub grease. These figures are actual rather than intended. The intended figures are strangely similar to the manual
  9. Phil does it look like this? I can't see any numbers, but my ignition amplifier would happily begin its retirement worth a postal trip to east Anglia
  10. Suddenly unsold in the final hours implies a deal done with keen interest and at least eBay don't get too much money. Wonder how much it was - i guess 8.5-10k
  11. I think that's the plan - and fit an inner bush to get the 1/2" size. Alternately I fit a steel sleeve into the shock eye to step it down to fit an available polybush. Then there's the question of how tight it should fit in the shock eye - but I should be able to ask a supplier. Also I imagine the inner bush (at 45mm long) almost makes lateral contact with the hub carrier and radius arm and washer, so when the bolt is torqued down there's no float, but the shock bush can rotate on the mounting bolt. Alternately it might actually tighten down.
  12. Slammed cars will soon look as dated as the spoiler/skirt kits featured above.
  13. Maybe I should buy a new car? This car seems to have done its work too ;^)
  14. Thanks for the suggestions. SJ offer remanufactured bolts at only a small price premium over both ht unf part threaded studs off the web and the LR items, so I've gone for those, and will clean up the shorter bolts as they are in better nick. Hopefully they won't need grinding!
  15. I've got a koni classic rear shock, seems good, but the lower bush sleeve was seized onto the mounting bolt. I thought I could just buy a replacement, but it's not proving easy. The pin is 1/2", the outer diameter of the bush is 17.5mm, the inside diameter of the shock eye is 27.5mm, width is 34mm and the inner bush is 45mm long. Koni no longer offer that shock and I've looked through several manufacturers catalogues getting 2 out of the 3 essential sizes only. Help appreciated!
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