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tom kilner

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About tom kilner

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    LOT

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    Male

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  • Name
    tom kilner
  • Car
    elite 503
  • Modifications
    spaghetti wiring and bubbly paint
  • Location
    Monmouth
  • Country

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  1. That first photo looked a lot like the parts that were missing would cost a lot more than the parts that were there. The second picture looks a lot better - if you planned to put in a different engine and gearbox it could be fun, but a lot of very skilled work. A good lotus engine could cost you more than a complete car with a working engine. I'd suggest you look at what parts you'd need - the windscreen and trim for example- and check how hard that's going to be. And check your country's legislation regarding road legality. The things I deal in, it's always the rare and expensive parts that are missing or broken. What looks like a bargain turns into a money pit. This car could be a lot of fun, but it won't be quick, easy or cheap to fix.
  2. It looks a bit like all the valuable bits have been sold off this one - leaving the bits that don't rust or wear away, so aren't worth much. To get all the parts to finish this car it would be easiest to buy another complete car... in which case this one might be an irrelevance. There are plenty of bodies around as they are fibreglass - the other parts will cost much more than a complete car, so that's where I would day you should start if you want a lotus, not on this stripped down shell. 😓
  3. tom kilner

    Cool idea or absolute insanity?

    Gaffer tape, baler twine, a huge bundle of euros and a very good dictionary? We got our thermocoupled fan replaced on our 25y.o. transit camper in the pyrenees on a Friday afternoon by finding the right man... and crossing his palm with silver. ☺ A 15mm left hand thread!
  4. tom kilner

    Elite/Eclat/Excel picture thread!

    Sounds a lot like mine although I've not quite pulled the engine out yet - 20 years ago my chassis was probably OK😁
  5. tom kilner

    Elite/Eclat/Excel picture thread!

    It's such a great looking car I can barely even see the wonky headlights and questionable door shut line. The weather looks good too.
  6. tom kilner

    Dutch yellow Eclat project

    There may also be a number stamped on the top of the sub-frame (frequently called chassis) about 400mm behind the front right shock tower. I don't know if you can read this with the body on ... If the plate is missing though, I believe you can buy a blank one and get it reprinted.
  7. tom kilner

    engine removal power steering/gearbox

    The bellhousing bolts don't align with the holes - see my earlier "mystery and disappointment " post -so I might be opening a new can of worms to try to sort that out lying on my back in a pool of steering fluid (I couldn't quite see the easiest/cleanest way to drain the p.s fluid although i caught 90%of it). I can't really roll the car as the rear wheels are almost locked by the failed chassis. Once the ps pump is off I should be able to start looking at pulling the powertrain apart. I can see that e+g connected is a more straightforward removal, although once I've got it disconnected I might then try to detach the gearbox under the car to save having to pull it out of the engine bay. Thanks for the advice so far guys.
  8. tom kilner

    engine removal power steering/gearbox

    Thanks folks - I can't really get the car outside because the weight of the chassis is resting on the rear drum. I could pull it out with the tractor though. Also as I am missing at least two of the bolts holding the engine to the bellhousing I'm not sure I want a hundred kilo cantilever on that point. It's too easy to assume that the other bolts are actually in there holding it together. I can't lift the body off the chassis with engine still fitted as it's reputed to be like getting a sofa up a spiral staircase. I'm imagining the gearbox could be loosened and then the engine drawn forward, propshaft disconnected, gearbox unbolted and slid back out of the clutch, then engine raised. I can't see how the power steering will make a difference once the pump is out - the racks don't look very different in size.
  9. Firstly: i thought I would leave the gearbox in the chassis to remove the engine as it might reduce the headroom needed for the lift - I've got a low roof. (I could refit together if that's easier but I'll have a better idea of what I'm doing at that point) Secondly I'd like to remove the power steering pump before lifting the lump. Hopefully it's really easy... Advice and suggestions welcome.
  10. The steel frame lifted off the rad - all four corners look lead soldered and currently broken. I'm cleaning it up , repaint and see if I can resolder with gas, maybe just a blowtorch.The expansion tank looks OK on the outside, so I think it's perforated. I could use some sort of tank seal maybe, if I'm going to save it?
  11. Good idea with the vinegar Mike.I'll pour some in tomorrow. My feelings were the other way round though - new header tank thirty quid and try to save the rad - all the complicated brassy bits of the radiator looked good just need to"fix" the frame... I will pull it apart and see what happens.
  12. I'm preparing to take out the engine and finding all those familisr things. This started leaking when I disturbed the paint. I thought I would braze it up, butthen i looked inside... 🤐 Then while we're on the cooling system, the radiator doesn't leak, but was only held in place by the cooling fan wiring: All four corners broken, although the steel looks like it could clean up. Can I just braze this lot back together?
  13. tom kilner

    How Much

    When you're feeling cheery it's worth £1000 more than you paid for it, when you're unbolting that broken thingy it's worth £1000 less.😂
  14. tom kilner

    mystery and disappointment

    There are several engine numbers saying 911. The car (79 - 2.0?) was sold in the late 90s with the 2.2 in it. Where should I look to double check?
  15. tom kilner

    Dutch yellow Eclat project

    Belts are cheap and quick to change and pistons and valves are not. also it's only a quick job to do the belts.I still think you should try to reseal the tyre beads though when you change the valves. Straker's suggestion of a can of tyre sealant totally can't hurt.

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