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tom kilner

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About tom kilner

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  • Name
    tom kilner
  • Car
    elite 503
  • Modifications
    spaghetti wiring and bubbly paint
  • Location
    Monmouth

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  1. There's a similar diagram says non-fed red 2.2 - would you like that too? (I ignored lhd and federal, but I'm making assumptions)
  2. It's the trouble with years of superlow value - tends to lead to years of superlow maintenance. So although 16k might be at the top end of elite values, it would cost more than that to get a 5k car into this condition.
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305421254345?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221115143649%26meid%3D5247be2551074e94bfdc2174e202bf27%26pid%3D101617%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D305421254345%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2SignedOutMobile&_trksid=p4375194.c101617.m5481&_trkparms=parentrq%3Aefe62a6918d0a8dae88fcaacfffc72c8|pageci%3A22686558-d63d-11ee-ac81-72447fc5c366|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage
  4. After a trial Sump fitting, I found i needed a fraction more clearance under the oil pickup pan, so took it apart and had to remove the permabond sealant. Here's how I did it: Vigorous scraping with thumbnail - works pretty well on the thicker sections... Then spray with gasket remover and wait a few minutes... Now attack with a kitchen scouring pad. Five minute job mate.
  5. You just need the sponsorship deal from your local builders merchants or double glazing installers!
  6. And a nice strong battery makes a massive difference
  7. Lotusbits have offered to replace my tank - (which i bought "untested" for £40, it had just come in to them with a pile of stuff) with a good one for a further £60 - so it doesn't seem worth getting the torch out on that one. There's 3 patches necessary, probably get through £30 of gas and brass and 3 hours work prep and braze. If someone asked me to patch the 3 holes I'd probably ask £90 - £110 if it was through work so vat... I had the Grinder out, tank cleaned inside, long Henry hoover pipe from the (running obvs) car exhaust into one filler neck, and i thought - I'll just call lb see what they say. Course I've done an hour of prep already, but if you throw in the opportunity to not breathe poisonous gases, set yourself on fire or blow yourself up that probably balances that out🤣
  8. Thanks for the tip pete. Now I've been wondering whether the oil pickup pan head was contacting the base of the Sump for the final millimetre of assembly... the old pickup pan was squashed flat too! 🤔 I couldn't imagine how this would be possible (everything looks good) so chose to press on with the sump fitting anyway - but now I've mulled it over, I think I need to remove the sump (and clean up the mating surfaces again🙄), measure accurately, and if necessary, remove the pickup pipe assembly (i have a spare o-ring) and modify the tab that fastens it onto the mbp so that the pickup gauze pan assembly has wafer of clearance from the Sump. I can't imagine that being under stress for 100,000 cycles won't cause the pipe to break or something else with catastrophic oily consequences🤯 ...or is the oil pickup meant to press against the Sump???
  9. Sump bolted onto main bearing panel - some "twist" from a previous bodge came out easily as the bolts torqued down. I suspect the home- made 911to907 Sump adapter plate (shown earlier) flared the Sump slightly, but the bead of sealant looks quite uniform so I think it's pulled it back and should seal ok🤞 A136 used to seal. Next... the head or oil pump🤔
  10. Thanks Pete, the studs are new and look pretty straight - it's almost like there's a twist in something, although I can't see it. My old Sump was bolted onto a 911 Talbot MBP, through a fairly crude adapter plate. I'm slightly worried it might have got distorted. I'm going to file out a point in the mounting holes here and there - it probablty amounts to 0.1mm on 1/3 of the holes. If it then drops on nicely and i can't see too much light through the gaps, then away I'll go. I don't think there's an increased risk of oil leakage through those holes, as the sealant will be inboard. If it doesn't drop on nicely, I'll assume i need a new sump!
  11. My Sump (flat under a straight edge) needs a bit of rubber mallet work to get it onto the mbp bolts, and doesn't sit flush. Is this normal? I'm sure with the couple of dozen fasteners tightened down it would get there, but ought I: a) open up the bolt stud holes to get an easy fit or b) try another Sump? I don't really want to have to do this again once it's in the car.
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