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tom kilner

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Everything posted by tom kilner

  1. There's a similar diagram says non-fed red 2.2 - would you like that too? (I ignored lhd and federal, but I'm making assumptions)
  2. It's the trouble with years of superlow value - tends to lead to years of superlow maintenance. So although 16k might be at the top end of elite values, it would cost more than that to get a 5k car into this condition.
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305421254345?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221115143649%26meid%3D5247be2551074e94bfdc2174e202bf27%26pid%3D101617%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D305421254345%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2SignedOutMobile&_trksid=p4375194.c101617.m5481&_trkparms=parentrq%3Aefe62a6918d0a8dae88fcaacfffc72c8|pageci%3A22686558-d63d-11ee-ac81-72447fc5c366|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage
  4. After a trial Sump fitting, I found i needed a fraction more clearance under the oil pickup pan, so took it apart and had to remove the permabond sealant. Here's how I did it: Vigorous scraping with thumbnail - works pretty well on the thicker sections... Then spray with gasket remover and wait a few minutes... Now attack with a kitchen scouring pad. Five minute job mate.
  5. You just need the sponsorship deal from your local builders merchants or double glazing installers!
  6. And a nice strong battery makes a massive difference
  7. Lotusbits have offered to replace my tank - (which i bought "untested" for £40, it had just come in to them with a pile of stuff) with a good one for a further £60 - so it doesn't seem worth getting the torch out on that one. There's 3 patches necessary, probably get through £30 of gas and brass and 3 hours work prep and braze. If someone asked me to patch the 3 holes I'd probably ask £90 - £110 if it was through work so vat... I had the Grinder out, tank cleaned inside, long Henry hoover pipe from the (running obvs) car exhaust into one filler neck, and i thought - I'll just call lb see what they say. Course I've done an hour of prep already, but if you throw in the opportunity to not breathe poisonous gases, set yourself on fire or blow yourself up that probably balances that out🤣
  8. Thanks for the tip pete. Now I've been wondering whether the oil pickup pan head was contacting the base of the Sump for the final millimetre of assembly... the old pickup pan was squashed flat too! 🤔 I couldn't imagine how this would be possible (everything looks good) so chose to press on with the sump fitting anyway - but now I've mulled it over, I think I need to remove the sump (and clean up the mating surfaces again🙄), measure accurately, and if necessary, remove the pickup pipe assembly (i have a spare o-ring) and modify the tab that fastens it onto the mbp so that the pickup gauze pan assembly has wafer of clearance from the Sump. I can't imagine that being under stress for 100,000 cycles won't cause the pipe to break or something else with catastrophic oily consequences🤯 ...or is the oil pickup meant to press against the Sump???
  9. Sump bolted onto main bearing panel - some "twist" from a previous bodge came out easily as the bolts torqued down. I suspect the home- made 911to907 Sump adapter plate (shown earlier) flared the Sump slightly, but the bead of sealant looks quite uniform so I think it's pulled it back and should seal ok🤞 A136 used to seal. Next... the head or oil pump🤔
  10. Thanks Pete, the studs are new and look pretty straight - it's almost like there's a twist in something, although I can't see it. My old Sump was bolted onto a 911 Talbot MBP, through a fairly crude adapter plate. I'm slightly worried it might have got distorted. I'm going to file out a point in the mounting holes here and there - it probablty amounts to 0.1mm on 1/3 of the holes. If it then drops on nicely and i can't see too much light through the gaps, then away I'll go. I don't think there's an increased risk of oil leakage through those holes, as the sealant will be inboard. If it doesn't drop on nicely, I'll assume i need a new sump!
  11. My Sump (flat under a straight edge) needs a bit of rubber mallet work to get it onto the mbp bolts, and doesn't sit flush. Is this normal? I'm sure with the couple of dozen fasteners tightened down it would get there, but ought I: a) open up the bolt stud holes to get an easy fit or b) try another Sump? I don't really want to have to do this again once it's in the car.
  12. There's straight line quick and along twisty lanes quick. My Honda 400 was a lot faster on b Roads than my bmw1000 because it was so much lighter and more nimble. I wouldn't want to hold it over 100mph though. Duncan is right about the brakes, make the car more driveable. 14" Tyre choice is the other thing, basically needing a different wheel to get more grip - or get a car with 15" wheels already? And how about a total Rewire, using a full set of relays, decent colour coding and 21st century connectors? Most breakdowns are electrical, and most vintage lotuses' electrics are a bird's nest of sticky tape, colour, corrosion and fatigue. I'm sure the reason the electrics get messed around with so much is that they weren't very good in the first place. This would improve the reliability far more than an engine swap.
  13. Why not get one with a good 2.2 engine, and then you just need to maintain it rather than do a swap out? Probably works out cheaper in the end too. These cars are cheap in reasonable condition like often under 10k - very cheap ones will turn out to be more expensive. The 907 engines really got their reputation for unreliability because they were freqiently undermaintained as the cars got older - it's a high performance engine. Additionally the cars are 40 years old, and many have spent a decade or 2 immobile, some in a hedge.
  14. Well the old tank looks a bit like a coffin...
  15. £400 custom tank now - like a component for the £20k project💰💰💰 I should be able to fix it for £10 of consumables, and an afternoon. My wife would be very unhappy if I blew myself up though, so I will take "precautions"🤯 The £200 "off the shelf" alloy tank (part of the £15k rebuild?) Just leaves a snaky filler tube to source, secure and seal🤔. At the end of the day, does that save time? I could probably fix the old tank in less time than I could solve that filler neck challenge.
  16. Thanks for the helpful advice. Even though this tank has been empty with the caps off for 5 years, I still wouldn't trust it, brazing brings a lot of heat and a surface coating or tarry residue could vaporise into an explosive mix with air. I'll fill it with water before cutting the holes, then take a closer look. Once patched I'll treat with a tank sealant. I did wonder about fitting an 8 gallon alloy tank, available for 200£ - but the snakey filler route (even one side only) looks a bit challenging.
  17. The tank has shown a couple of little holes now I've started cleaning it up. Looked good before I peeled the gaffa tape off the bottom. 3 rusty patches. 99.9% good otherwise. Repair? With epoxy, or braze patches?
  18. I'll check that Pete. My old bolts were the sort of things you find by the side of the road. Lucky they were all m6 tbh. Allen, phillips, hex - in round, pan and button head. Stainless and galv. A real pick-n-mix. I assumed it was random... but maybe not.
  19. Rear oil seal housing to slide over the shaft.With a bit of lubricationAnd voila! I need a smaller Torque wrench though. 1kgm is off the bottom of the scale on mine, so judged by "arm".
  20. My main engine no is on the top of the block by the bellhousing. This has the "normal" lotus layout. There is also a cast number on the bearing panel one side and the block on the other.
  21. Housing cleaned and new seal fitted - with the 2.5mm offset on the inside face that wasn't there before...
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