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tom kilner

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Everything posted by tom kilner

  1. Here's a photo of the ring gear on the flywheel - you should be able to count the teeth The flywheel measures as one foot across (nicely standard๐Ÿ˜Š) and I've also pictured a measurement of the teeth. Can you drill the sensor hole by the starter?
  2. You can buy "chrome" spray paint now, might work if you can get a good key?
  3. My car had one it looked terrible but the PO must have liked it - choose the one you think looks best!
  4. I imagined the rover sd1 reflector would fit?? The LEDs might work better, but I don't think they are legal if not OE. Probably like a painted number plate though, if you're not looking for trouble, you probably won't get any.
  5. Couldn't you reuse the old rivets?๐Ÿ˜‰
  6. The upfront cost of the car will only be small compared to the cost of recomissioning or restoration, but I don't think they sell for 1000ยฃ any more, unless the screen is missing and there's stuff growing out of the windows๐Ÿ™ Not many people have made a profit doing one up and selling it on (elite/eclat/excel). Prices are rising, but maintenance and repair costs are probably greater. I'd say buy it of you want it, and aim for not losing money๐Ÿ˜
  7. Great looking car! Steering doesn't sound right though. Jack up the front and try turning the steering wheel, and also turn the road wheels, should show you if somethings tight. I've got most of a power steering setup here if you fancy a project!
  8. I am going to use waterless coolant after seeing what 40 years of water can do. Hopefully the waterless stuff will stop the rot. Given the price though, I wasn't to be sure I don't have any leaks first! Water has two things going for it,: price and availability๐Ÿ˜‰
  9. I thought you were only taking one out Paul. Isn't that b&d's finest workmate? I've got one the same - even the "finish" Please photograph the alignment method on refitting for my reference!
  10. well interestingly I have 2 starter motors as my original solenoid is falling apart. The "jump the solenoid" trick spins the motors: But the "throw the starter pinion" Works on one without a live supply to the solenoid, but not the other. The spanner methods shown should work with live to the yellow tab... Assuming a decent earth to the motor body. Doing this on the bench you have to watch out for the starter jumping right off the surface and landing on your feet.
  11. Round of applause Paul - swift, decisive and well photographed. Let me know your resealing methods. Tom
  12. Sounds like a classic starter solenoid, although it could be dodgy wiring. It could even be a bad earth if the battery negative connection is poor. the starter is the highest load on the system, so the first to fail. Another thing to check is there's still voltage in the battery - it could be going flat due to failing alternator or some unknown load. Turning on the headlights gives an idea if you don't have a multimeter. If it's not the battery... You might find if you bang the starter with something, it works, as yours is borderline. With the ignition off : It would be worth jumping power straight on to the starter live terminal on the solenoid to see if the motor works ok with direct power - that's the large terminal on the solenoid nearest the motor body. The motor should spin but won't engage with the engine. Also a positive voltage applied to the small spade terminal should operate the solenoid with a heavy clunk. The other large terminal (outer with yellow connector in the photo) is the positive to the solenoid (It's a mechanical switch). Turning on the ignition should live that up, then a positive to the small spade should then close the switch, and then power the starter, and crank the car. this can be done with a spanner off the outer terminal. Turning the ignition key to the start position applies live to the spade - the fact your car clunks at this point means this bit is working. Be sure all parts of clothing, anatomy etc are clear of any moving engine parts. It's also important there's no petrol or vapour around as testing will produce large sparks. A fire extinguisher and a helper are a good idea. The starter motor is easy to remove - you can have a go at dismantling and cleaning the solenoid assembly as it might just be dirty - you can also file the contact plates flat again, but ultimately you'll need a new solenoid, easiest you just replace the starter as a professional repair will probably cost you more. If you need to start it tonight and it's not a flat battery, you can jump the solenoid switch with a spanner. Turning the ignition gives you the clunk of the solenoid engaging the motor with the engine - if you then put a spanner across the two solenoid terminals, you can supply voltage to the starter directly bypassing the solenoid switch. It could also be done with a jump lead to that inner terminal, allowing the"electrician" to live the motor up at a safe ish distance by touching the other end on the jump battery. Hard to get a firm connection with a clip though - some cabling might be required. See warning above though. It might just be easier and safer to bump start the car.
  13. My liners are stuck too so perhaps I could have the removal tool after pbh? I was going to make something... Pm on its way
  14. I'm not sure about disabling a safety feature on a car. It could have an effect in future ownership. See if yours is working by seeing if you get 12v at the terminal, when the ignition is on. you'll hear a clunk. I think I the valve is only ยฃ20.
  15. I'm trying to reuse anything that isn't broken, worn out or inappropriate. Time will tell of course, but when I swap the block im hoping to need almost nothing - the engine ran well and it all looks ok so far - I'm sure there are some detail differences between the 911 anf 907 fittings - the oil return pipe looks like one. Pistons, pins, rings, liners, crank, con rods, main and big end bearings even. Maybe all I need is oil seals and gaskets? Maybe. ๐Ÿ˜„
  16. Special tool to get the oil pickup retaining screw - 19mm Allen key anyone?
  17. Luckily I'm taking the liners out to fit to the 907 block, so it's ALL coming apart. ๐Ÿ˜‚ They seem well stuck though so I may have to fashion a puller. Here's the restored original 907 block for my internals. Stripped back and prepared for assembly. ๐Ÿ˜ The issue with the 911 block was that the adapter plate for the sump meant that half the bellhousing bolts didn't line up ๐Ÿ˜• And there was oil everywhere - and I had no idea how the internals were arranged. But it doesn't look too bad, condition seems ok and I'm getting an idea of what goes where thanks to forum members.
  18. Yes indeed thanks pete Obvious once I removed the enormous "adapter" plate. My 907 block doesn't have one there. I think I'm getting confused with the front and the back ends though - too much looking at the engine from funny angles. I dream of looking down on an engine in the engine bay. Indeedy - Closer examination shows a distinctly non- factory assembly. Thanks guys I'm getting a grip on it.
  19. I remember the creature well! I In comparison my engine interior was a lot less tarry. I was also studying your excellent pictures before disassembly - there were about 1000 oily bolts holding it together. I haven't broken anything yet - that i know of...
  20. Here we have the 911 engine from a lotus Talbot sunbeam: As I understand it: This block had the wider bearing carrier of the later 2.2 litre lotus engines (912) to strengthen the main bearings for the higher power output. The 911 sump is at the back of the engine so won't clear the chassis - Unfortunately the 911 block won't take a 912 sump. My car has a plate bolted on to fit the 907 sump - at the right end. So the oil pickup looks like it's in the right place for the 907/912, but I don't see the other pipe in the manual or other photos - looks like an oil return pipe maybe? Here's a 912 - I think: And here's the manual picture, an early 907? There's a strap like thing at the bottom there,, and the oil pickup looks like it's under the next big end As I'm swapping the block to a 907, I might need to lose or gain some components here - suggestions and interpretations welcome!
  21. And now under the 911-907 adaptor plate... And a little something left in the sump Although as it looks like a 1/2" nut, i can't think where it could have come from. ๐Ÿ™„
  22. Head off: Quick look at the bores: Looks not bad. And made a tool to pull the crank sprocket off: Ugly but effective.
  23. So if you can sort lap-belt-fit child seats up to age 12 that fit in the back then you're sorted until 2027. By then you might come up with a plan you're happy with for kids 12+๐Ÿ˜€ Mine use the lap belts.๐Ÿ˜ถ I've seen a 3 point belt fitted but as dunc points out, you may be introducing other risks.๐Ÿ˜• My primary safety concern now for rear passengers is exit in a fire. I think the car's interior is quite a safe space otherwise, and insurance premiums certainly show that classic drivers are a comparatively low risk.
  24. I fitted the lotusbits stainless seatbelt mounts recently - replacing rusty old ones, so the fitting holes were already there. The body is off so access is great. Forty quid the pair with mounting bolts. My lap belts were in good condition so I kept them Once mounted I filled around them with silicone, to stop road cramp filling the space, but as it's a fibreglass and stainless sandwich it doesn't really matter.
  25. No need for a wiper with a boot that full - never mind the visibility, the mechanism would get tangled in the tagliatelli.๐Ÿ˜€ Great to see car in practical use
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