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Everything posted by Ledlights

  1. @Johnny5 Did you get to the bottom of the fault?
  2. Hi Jai, The ABS ringS looks like one of these and sit behind the hubs. Sometimes corrosion builds up and “rounds off” the signal detected by the sensor making them play up.
  3. Another possible cause... Can you see corrosion on the ABS rings behind the hubs? If so, clean it up with some wire wool and see that gets rid of the fault. Also, have you checked all your fuses? A long shot too...
  4. If you turn the leather over, can you see if it was glued in place? If so, I’ve used Timebond successfully on upholstery before.
  5. A while since I took the panel off but seem to remember the loom went straight from the switch to the window regulator inside the door panel. It’s worth seeing if you can close the switch and test the connector at the regulator end too.
  6. Just a thought, if the window drops when the door opens and the switch it good could it be the loom or connector between the switch and regulator?
  7. Hi, I’m not sure this will help as it’s Evora S1 related (and I don’t know if the 400 has the same alarm) but here’s a link to the manual. If you read through to the end of the section it looks like you can debug to see what triggered an alarm event. Perhaps, there’s a way to identify the cause of your problem using this facility?
  8. Another option, these fellas were top notch when I last used them:
  9. Hi, Here’s the wiring on my 2009 LE. Hope this helps. Steve
  10. Could be fuel pump related. I had a 3200GT that did something like this and it turned out to be the fuel pump relay. Other thoughts were battery connection, ignition switch or a rogue connector somewhere!
  11. Here’s what the clips look like:
  12. The disc looks like mine, where there is no rattle so I would take a look at the pads, backing material and anti-rattle clips. Hope this helps, Steve
  13. Hi Chris, Nice to hear from you! Yes, thanks, the CAI is definitely the culprit. As you suggested, I recently degreased it and re-oiled it to try to reduce the incidence above. Cheers, Steve
  14. I've occasionally had something from the MAF and the throttle body on my LE. On my car, if it's the MAF, I withdraw it and clean the sensor itself with contact cleaner but the giveaway with this fault is that the idle speed is elevated. With the throttle body, as long as the butterfly is clean, it's the plug that's the culprit. Hope this helps, Steve
  15. If it makes you feel any better (it probably won’t), my 59 Plate LE is the same. The roof panels were probably stored wet so that water tracked down the fibres at the factory, hence the recurrence after the respray. I’ve also got a little bit of it on the fron clam behind the top grille either side of the brake fluid hatch. It’s a PITA to fix because the panel would need to be stripped and dried for a long time to make sure all the vapour comes off.
  16. I’ve not had this but I have a couple of things you could check/try if the battery hasn’t fixed it. If you open the fob check if the switch under the Lotus button has come lose - from memory it’s surface mount and one of the soldered pins may have broken or have a dry joint - if so you’ll need to get your soldering iron out to repair. Second idea if that hasn’t happened, is to use some switch cleaner on the dodgy button; try to get it under the rubber membrane on the top of the switch by squirting it into the side if you can.
  17. How about taping a long strip of paper to the inside lip if the boot before hosing down the tailgate? The wet paper should indicate where the gap is... Just a thought.
  18. There’s a vent pipe between the cabin and the boot, so if you use a smoke device it’s likely it’ll also get into the cabin. Have a look at item 2 below: Have you tried applying chalk to the rubber to see where no contact is Being made with the boot lid?
  19. I haven’t found a solution for this online but it looks like the problem is between adjacent layers on the touch screen so it might be rather difficult to get air circulation to clear the moisture out. It might be that you can improve things with a hair dryer or you might need to pull it out and see if you can replace or separate the layers to clear it. Hope this helps, Steve
  20. In that case, the easiest way would be to find an original replacement. Change the camera first to see if it fixes it, if not then change the control unit too.
  21. Did your car have a camera fitted originally? I did, so when I updated my system I ended up with a Kenwood HU with an Alpine HCE 105 camera - I found a new old stock one on eBay that meant I didn’t have to change the control unit (which would otherwise have to come out if you go to another make). It just save a bit more messing about but if you didn’t have one from standard you have free reign. I suggest you have a look at the reviews first though because I’ve heard that some have terrible low light performance.
  22. Water gets into the electronics and causes a number of issues before the whole regulator fails. If you take the panel off and remove the regulator it’s sometimes possible to open it up, get rid of all the water and clean up the affected contacts. There’s a guide below that shows the disassembly process for a different fault that may help: If not, unfortunately you’ll need a new regulator assembly.
  23. Have you noticed whether the door indicator on the dash functions as it should? If it shows up as open (even if the door is closed) or vice versa, it usually indicates a micro switch fault. If the indicator and courtesy lights work properly, it’s usually the regulator at fault. Hope this helps, Steve
  24. I did this myself when I got my car. Definitely a bumper off job to replace original camera as screws are not accessible (even if you had small hands). Easy enough to remove but a little time consuming.
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