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Posts posted by Clarky5150

  1. New bits all fitted last week along with sorting out the centre rad fan (slightly seized so occasionally blowing a fuse and getting 'Fan Fail' warning'). The new head unit looks very in nice with no nasty flashing graphics and the like. Now have iPhone charging and play, DAB (thank god), Bluetooth connection for Android and Apple and hands free phone with voice control. The higher power head unit runs the Infinity speakers far better.

    Front number plate was looking very tired so popped a new one on. Car looks much fresher now with lip and plate.


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  2. Give the rad pack a good coat of looking at. Check for  and remove debris and sort any corroded connectors.

    Make sure you use ceratec lube or similar to coat the fastenings when you put em back in the rebuild in case they ever have to come off again.

    Don't overtighten the corner fastenings on the corner of the bumper, they strip the nuts glassed into the body quite easily.

    Replace the horn if its on its way out.

  3. Thanks. Not done much on the Esprit over the last year but I have a few little jobs I will be attending to and posting on in the coming weeks. Postie bought some parcels this morning so I can crack on.

    Have a retro motorised mask head unit at the moment but can only listen to a cd so many times. Taken the plunge and upgraded to DAB, hands free etc head unit. This pioneer unit looked fairly understated so should look in keeping. 

    IMG_0179 (2).JPG

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  4. Finally bit the bullet and ordered the new heater control graphic to replace the crumbly one in situ at present. Bizarrely she is currently running better than ever and barring a mystery clunk over speed bumps I really don't want to take spanners to anything and temp the Norfolk gremlins into showing their faces.

    Guess ill just drive and enjoy instead. 


  5. Well the 944 has moved off to its new owner. He lived nearby and had watched its rebuild before popping in with a cheeky offer. So while there is space on the drive I thought I would have a day on old Yella.

    Oil and filter change (no pics needed im sure)

    Fluids topped up (chargecooler seems to have a slow leak somewhere as this needs a quarter of a pint every 6 months or so)

    Still getting a very faint aroma or petrol on occasion and I was aware that when replacing the breather pipes I had left the ones connecting to the canister alone as they appeared sound. Another inspection showed cracking in the pipe from the anti roll valve to the canister so replaced this. The air intake pipe seemed worse for wear too so fitted a new one and re-routed this to the rear of the car to rule out any blow back of vapours.




  6. watching Catchpole hold the over steer on throttle in standing water makes me realize that even though my S4 has been improved dramatically with new shocks and set up it still has a long way to go. Any throttle mid bend in the wet causes massive over steer. New rear tyres are the first port of call as the Avons currently on are about 9 yrs old. Love how much more aggressive the 300 Sport looks. 350 sport never looked that purposeful.

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  7. I bought it primarily because the sills and inner arches are all solid and have been wax treated from new. The p.o 'lost' the seats and wheels when the local trimmers went bust. The seats I have used are actually 986 boxster (were blue, now re-connolised black) half the weight at look fit perfectly and a third of the price of old and sagged 944 seats. This is my 4th 944 but first Lux (turbos and S2s before but their rocketing price makes them overpriced or complete basket cases). Love em.... sorry Barry!


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  8. A year to the week since I picked up the Esprit. Spent most of the Summer just enjoying the car as oppose to taking her to bits. Still a few 'niggles' to sort but they can wait till Spring. She is going under cover for the Winter at a friends place. I was going to do an annual service but having only clocked a few thousand miles since the last I think Spring will suffice for that also.

    In the meantime this years Winter project has taken root on the driveway. Sorry Barry but another Pork has found its way to our door. She was too good to break for parts so I had to save her. A months hard work has turned this....





  9. Now drop the new glass into the door and roughly realign the frame. Wedge the glass in the upper part of the frame and apply a bead of sealant to the lower inner edge of the glass and to the opposing edge of the glass mount which you degreased earlier. Now operate the window regulator into the window closed position and as it reaches the new glass help it seat correctly. I measured mine before smashing the old glass. The front overhang was 115mm and the rear 35mm. I put two small pieces of tape on the new glass bottom before reinserting it into the door to mark these measurements for mounting. 


    Don't worry I then ran a gloved finger along the sealant to tidy up (it cant be seen when the door is rebuilt) and left in the closed position overnight to cure.

    The following day check the alignment of the frame and adjust if required and replace door trim.

    I would also recommend spraying silicone lube into the felt tracks as the new glass will slide more freely then (don't do this if you are painting any bodywork there anytime soon tho).

    Job done!


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  10. Once clean apply a smear of white or graphite grease to the slide (too much will cause interference with the slide.

    Now reinsert the slide into the regulator. Use heat again and plumbers grips for the rear slide



    The front slide will be obscured by the door inner panel and is very difficult to apply enough pressure to pop the ball in the socket. I made a hole in the inner panel through which I inserted a drift, place a piece of wood between the slide and the main door beam and tapped the ball home with a decent hammer blow. This is where the hole needs to be created..



  11. The front of the frame is hels internally by two 10mm nuts.

    All the 10mm nuts are on threaded bar which is fastened to the alloy main door beam. They have a 10mm nut part way along the threaded bar which acts as an adjustment for frame angle.



    Contrary to what others have posted you can alter the angle of the frame quite some way and providing you adjust the upper retainers in the opposite direction to the lowers the frame will remain true from front to back and the glass will open and close without undue tension. I moved wine inward by about 4mm on the top of the frame to create a better frame to body weather seal.

    The glass metal guide channel is mounted onto the regulators scissor arms with two white hard plastic slides which move within the channel. They attach to the arms with a ball and socket. This can be popped apart to release the glass but the plastic is very hard so application of heat greatly assists the levering!

    Once the glass is removed the fun begins.

    The glass is not an interference fit as you would expect but bonded with enough mastic to take the weight of the entire car. The frames runner is very soft metal and any attempt to knock the runner from the glass will damage it and stop the slides from moving. 

    The only method to do the job is to hold the pane inside a wheelie bin or similar and smash the glass!!

    You will be left with some chips of glass and the sealant which can be levered out with a screwdriver and hammer.






    once out thoroughly clean and degrease the glass channel, slide and plastic slider as the white grease from the factory will have hardened over time. Brake and clutch cleaner is ideal.



    • Like 1
  12. So here's what I did. 

    Remove door panel (well documented)

    Heres the controversial part.. Unbolted and moved the window frame but didn't have to remove from the car! If you lift the front by about an inch and raise the back of the frame up to the elbow in the frame itself the glass will clear it by twisting it.



    Ground and repaired this localised rust in situe with epoxy metal putty. looks a lot worse than it was from the photo.

    The frame itself is held at the rear by a 10mm nut inside the door and an 8mm on the door edge. 


    The centre bar has two 10mm nuts and a 10mm bolt which attaches to a floating guide spaced with packers (large washers)


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