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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. I have the front rubber lip on mine, as my driveway is quite steep so I'm limited in ground clearance. I did have to slightly lower the front of mine to reduce understeer at speed. I have the Sport 350 rear wing as well, so I get a lot of downforce at the back which probably doesn't help understeer. My car is 301bhp and we have derestricted roads here, so I often do get to speeds where the handling starts to change!
  2. I’m on the Isle of Man so the location is no good for you. But I paid £3,500 about 10 years ago. It was a proper job though. Windows out.. bumpers, bonnet, tailgate, doors all off, taken right back to the base coat (dry sanded) and painted and lacquered with a tonne of lacquer. I’m very pleased with it. I changed from the original pearl white colour as it was just impossible to match and I was tired of my car being about 6 different colours, especially under sodium street lighting. Plus, if you’re spending all that money it’s nice to see a big change. It’s now Ford Panther Black. Sounds cheap, but It’s a really nice metallic rich black, with blue and red flecks that show up in the sun. And more importantly, it’s an easy colour to find and match in the future! You can even get cans of it from Halfords.
  3. Great work! And it's nice to know that your original Sport 350 sills are on my car. Nothing was wasted!
  4. I think the V8's with the Brembo front discs had an Elise rear calliper.. as this is what I fitted to mine. The Sport 350 has a rear brembo calliper, as well as the Elise one for the handbrake mechanism. I really doubt they'd fit 16" wheels though I'm afraid. the front Brembo's certainly wouldn't, and you wouldn't want to upgrade the backs without doing the fronts or you'd end up in a wall. Worth contacting PNM Engineering as they have loads of options that will probably suit your wheel size (and hub type.. this changed as well)
  5. Well, Peter Stevens designed it, which is why a lot of things are common. Wing mirrors are the same Citroen CX that we use on the Esprit!
  6. I've had my Esprit 21 years now, and what is soul destroying is the jobs you remember doing 15 years ago and thinking 'good, I can forget about that now' only to be doing it again years later! I'm on about my 3rd set of gearbox and engine mounts now, for example. Luckily mine is garaged and rarely comes out, so most maintenance tasks these days are limited to things that stop working when they're not used. Like relays! I really should drive it more. Think I'll tax it for May actually.
  7. I have the later 100mm V8 style electronic speedo in mine which you can calibrate. I used a GPS speed sat nav for comparison and gradually changed the increments until I got my speedo spot on. Most speedos over read speed anyway by default, so even with bigger wheels and tyres, you may only be eating into that margin. But yes, worth checking with something like a TomTom on your dash that gives you a gps speed, just as a one off so you know how much to allow for. We don’t like permanent dashboard or window clutter in our nice Esprits.
  8. There was a horrible set on eBay last year that looked like they had been hand painted with some silver dulux using a paintbrush. Other than that, they come up very infrequently. I was quite lucky and happy when I got mine. Think I paid about £1000 as well, which was a bargain really. If you put a watch on eBay, you may get a set.. although they usually seem to come up in ones or two’s, not a full set. They are light though. I originally had GT3 wheels, which are smaller with narrower tyres. The much larger Magnesios were pretty much the same weight, wheels and tyres together.
  9. If these brackets could be made in aluminium, then I’d be happy to fit a set to my Esprit To prevent this damage happening in the first place. Some of our roads are quite bumpy here, so I imagine my chassis and body get a right good pasting. I’d rather prevent any of this cracking than try to fix it afterwards. making them out of aluminium would appeal for the weight factor, and also the corrosion factor. (If anodised). I wouldn’t fancy fitting mild steel under there as it’s right in the airflow and will quickly rot in the climate I live in. (Near the sea with crap weather most of the time!)
  10. You could always do what Ford used to do, and I believe a number of modern cars still do. Have an auxiliary air pump somewhere pumping air directly into the exhaust to thin out the emissions!
  11. I seem to remember when I first took the carbs off mine to switch to injection, the ram pipes (or whatever they're referred to as) were so long they left hardly any gap between the tops of them and the plenum chamber housing. I was surprised any air managed to get in at all before boost came in. On the injection plenum, as on the photo above, they are just a lip more than longer pipes. I guess injection doesn't benefit as much from having pipes as carbs do. This is way out of my league though when it comes to airflow and stuff.
  12. My air con was mostly missing when I got the car which is why it was an easy choice to use the radiator for the charge cooler. The pipes are indeed quite narrow, but they seem to be ok. I can monitor air temperature after the charge cooler, but I don't have a way to measure it going in. Certainly after a good run though when the engine is really hot, my charge cooler is always stone cold so it does the job. The throttle bodies are the standard SE ones, along with a standard fuel rail. When it was on the rolling road though, we did have to squash the fuel pressure regulator to up the fuel pressure a bit. I only use 4 injectors, but as I'm not using a Lotus ECU they are not the Lotus type of injectors. I'm pretty certain these are the 4 injectors I'm using. Rover Tomcat 220 2.0 Turbo 420 Fuel Injector Lucas 380cc MJY10023 They certainly look the same anyway, black with a red stripe. On the rolling road, the 301hp was made with decent fuelling though, as the lambda didn't lean out at any point so I'm quite happy they're up to the job. Here's my power run.
  13. It is a custom exhaust. The pipework uses the standard downpipe and then goes into a rear silencer that has very little baffles in it. I think the main pipework is standard, 2 1/2" I think. I think most of the power is made by the hybrid turbo as well as the ECU I am running with the different injectors. I only run 4 injectors, not 6. They are Rover 220 Turbo Coupe injectors, so 300bhp is about the limit for them. The car runs a little rough when it is cold (I need a better warm up map) but when it is warm, it runs really smooth and nice. No flat spots in the fuelling. I have checked as I can log my ECU. I have also reduced the weight of the car by over 100kg from standard by removing soundproofing, lighter seats, carbon sunroof, lighter bonnet, titanium and aluminium bolts, aluminium radiator.. etc.. so it is much better now because of that also. The only thing that spoils the car really is the gear change. I need to get it lined up properly as at the moment it is not great, although all the parts are new.
  14. I fitted a charge cooler to mine when it was originally on Carbs. It is doable, but a lot of the parts would be hard to source now I reckon, like the plenum pipe parts off a charge cooled car. I used my defunct air con rad for the charge cooler rad, and ran some custom alloy pipes from the back to the front in the gap between the chassis and the body. I use an electric water pump. There were a few other bits I needed to do, like make a reservoir for the charge cooler coolant and make up a few brackets and stuff, but overall it wasn't a massively difficult job. I did have to swap the inlet cam cover as well, as the oil filler is in the wrong place on a Carb turbo as it sits right under the charge cooler on an SE! I wouldn't like to tackle it now though due to lack of parts. I went on to remove the carbs and fit an Emerald M3D ecu and fuel injection, as well as a hybrid turbo. My car now makes 301bhp on a rolling road. Not bad considering it would have been specced at 215bhp when I bought it 21 years ago.
  15. Are you getting decent vacuum? If it's really noisy, it could be because the diaphragm in the pump has given up. Happened to mine and sounded like a load of quacking ducks.
  16. Is yours the wider one or the later narrower one? I’m not sure the reason they went narrower. It could be for regulations regarding body parts being wider than the car (could take pedestrians out) or for aerodynamic reasons. I know mine provides a lot of downforce as I get a bit of lightness at the front over 100mph which I don’t like.. and that’s with the narrower one. I imagine the wider one would provide significantly more downforce as there is more of the ends in clean air.
  17. Better Chargecooling is the proper way to do it. Water injection is an engineering equivalent of a workaround/bodge.
  18. Indeed.. I did say it was ages ago I heard that story. I certainly didn't have my water injecting before the turbo.
  19. I had water injection on mine as well, using an aqua mist system. It certainly kept the inlet tract nice and clean. I ran a 50/50 mix with water and screenwash which is usually methanol based. It never ran massively better, it was just here to prevent knocking really, which I didn’t get anyway so I removed it eventually as it was a faff remembering to keep it topped up and wasn’t a particularly tidy installation. The BMW M4 GTS has water injection so there is something in it. Although I suspect that’s partly because it would have been harder to fit a bigger chargecooler and radiator without redesigning parts of the car to accommodate them. Adding water injection is relatively easy. They will have something in the map that limits boost if the water level gets low though which you won’t. if you do fit it, I fitted my injector in the chargecooler, just after the central core, in the wider part before the air narrows back into the pipe work. It’s the biggest area that gets all the air all the time. I remember thinking the plenum chamber was actually too big. I think when Ford made the first 2,500 Escort Cosworths they used to have it injecting water in the inlet tract before the turbo. They used two Washer pumps in series to build up pressure, but then effectively had the inlet vanes of the turbo smash the water up into atomised particles to have more effect. My memory is not 100% on that though as I did year that story about 20 years ago. My car didn’t have a chargecooler when I got it, so I’m using the original Air con rad. Works really well.
  20. That's a shame.. he did a great job on mine. He's very well regarded in the GT40 replica groups, as they use the same gearbox. Mine seems spot on so far, not a drip!
  21. I think you had your gearbox rebuilt by Chris Cole? He did the same double O ring fitment on mine, and did mention a previous customer saying they’d used ratchet straps to get the driveshafts back in.
  22. For info, there were two widths as well. The earlier ones were about 12” wider. Many of them also suffered from yellowing in the sun so a lot were replaced under warranty. They’d not used UV stable epoxy. Some of those recalled ones were knocking around for a while. The South West Lotus centre had a couple. May be worth trying them.
  23. Unlikely. I have one on mine. I actually made a mould out of fibreglass a lot of years back, but it split sadly so I binned it after I’d made my wing. i eventually managed to get a genuine one but that was over 10 years ago.
  24. The problem is the oil seals on the end of the shaft. I have double oil seals fitted. A bit trickier to get the drive shafts back on, but when you do, no leaks!
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