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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. If you can find a chargecooler! The the OEM ones are like hens teeth now. You may need to get one fabricated. You’ll then need to run some pipes to the front, fit a radiator for the chargecooler system, as well as an electric pump and some plumbing. My car was originally a carb turbo, 215bhp. It’s now got an Emerald M3D Ecu, chargecooler, injectors and a hybrid turbo making 280bhp easily. If you already have a manifold with injectors that’s half the battle, although you’d probably end up changing them. I did my upgrade in 2000 when parts were a lot easier to get than they are now. If your car runs well and is original, I would concentrate on just keeping it original and tidy. It’ll be worth more than messing about with upgrades. Wonder if you can just up the boost a little? Not sure how those cars are mapped.
  2. I’ve done a complete interior swap on my 1988 Esprit to the very latest style interior with the smaller instrument cluster. I also changed the doors so I could have the later handles, door cards and much, much better electric window setup. Not a horrendous job, but I’m good with wiring which was the only complicated part really. The later style A pillar trims will be shorter than the ones you have now. Where you have a sort of box bit at the bottom of the trim, that’s shorter as if it’s been cut off on the later trim. In fact I believe you can cut down the original A pillars, re trim them, and they’ll fit the later cars. The roof lining piece and window surround should be the same though. I think on the S4 the interior light moved to the area between the visors using a Vauxhall Senator courtesy light unit, then on the very last builds it moved back to the rear window surround. They probably ran out of stock. As has been said, probably better to just get the pieces you have re trimmed.
  3. I actually managed to separate the exhaust housing tonight! Yay! I spoke to a chap at who gave me some really good advice on how to do the job. Only fair to give them a plug as he was really helpful and didn’t charge me a penny for the advice! Basically I needed to get a copper hammer (bought one for the job) then gradually bang away on the side of the housing and any bits sticking out like flanges with the copper hammer until it came off. After just a couple of minutes with the copper hammer it came off. Superb. You don’t need to go mental, just gradually tapping away more than hard hits. The copper deadens the impact a bit and stops it damaging the actual turbo by being softer than the material it’s hitting. And it’s always nice buying new tools. The soaking in ‘XCP one’ over the last couple of days no doubt helped. Not heard of the acetone and transmission fluid trick before. I’ve ordered some new bolts to hold the exhaust housing on as one of them started rounding when I was taking it off so I thought it was a good idea to replace them all. Once they’re here (tomorrow I hope) I should be able to put the turbo back together with the centre section suitably rotated to take the oil return pipe.. just in time for me to got and collect my gearbox from Chris Cole next Saturday. Talking of bolts, one of the bolts holding the compressor housing on had a slimmer head than the others, and when I nipped it up, it stripped the threads in the housing!! I took it out and saw it was only about 10mm long whereas the others were about 15mm long. Luckily I have my original turbo so I took one off that and the extra 5mm length was able to reach unstripped material and tighten up ok, with some loctite to make sure. That bolt was put in by the people who rebuilt my turbo. Bit surprised they missed that to be honest.
  4. Thanks, got some of that ordered. I’ll see if that move the studs. I’m leaning towards leaving them actually. They were a bit damaged already when I took the turbo off and it hadn’t dropped off by itself. I may just be making a load of extra work. thinking I may send the turbo itself to Turbodynamics to get freed off, as they can check it over while it’s there. Guess it makes sense as it’s hardly a 5 minute job getting the damn thing off and back on.
  5. Really having trouble clocking my Turbo in order to get the oil return pipe on. Got the bolts all undone (eventually) but I just can’t get the exhaust side to budge which means I can’t get the centre section to rotate. The inlet side is loose and rotating ok though. Tried loads of wd40, tapping the exhaust housing with a hammer (not hard, just to try and shock it a bit) and tapping a bit on any part that sticks out that should cause it to move, but it won’t budge. I’m terrified if I hit it anywhere too hard I’m going to kill it. Anyone got any tips? Failing that, can anyone recommend somewhere I could send it? It’s a hybrid T3/4 that was built about 7 years ago but has probably only done a 1,000 miles or so, therefore I’m not wanting a complete rebuild. Pants. If it’s not one thing it’s the other! The other being, two of the four studs in the exhaust manifold are damaged and could do with swapping for two new ones I have. Just looking at them though, it’s like they’re daring me to try and remove them just so they can snap on me. I’ve got a stud extractor on the way (the roller type) but are these studs likely to come out or snap? These are likely the original ones from 1988 is suspect! Again, got loads of wd40 on them, but I can’t see that making much difference. Cheers.
  6. Thanks. I've got about 6 sets of the large washers left, but only one set of the smaller washers left if anyone wants them.
  7. Ok thanks. If mine pointed straight down I think the drain pipe would also struggle. I’ll give it a go though before tightening and refitting everything. As close to vertical as possible is certainly meant to be better.
  8. Any chance you could take a photo for me? I read on a few forums it needs to be as vertical as possible to allow the oil to drain out.
  9. Got the turbo off today and only had to drill into one of the manifold nuts, damaging the stud. Not too bad. Biggest problem was getting the water feed pipe off! Need to cut it off and get a new one. Going to re orientate it tomorrow. Got to wait for a load of new gaskets and stuff before I can refit it though.
  10. Good news is that the new hose seems to be ok. I put my Chinese ‘eBay special’ usb endoscope down it and the inner hose seems to be a rubbery material rather than tubular stainless steel like the original one, so I don’t think it harmed it being kinked briefly.
  11. I’m sure I’ll be laughing in a few months!! Hoping I can somehow get to the last bolt tomorrow. I just know that single bolt will stop it rotating. So if that’s the case why are there 6?!?! ?
  12. Well, got all the bolts undone on the exhaust side apart from the one right next to the manifold. So for the sake of not being able to get to just 1 bolt, I’m probably going to have to take the entire turbo off. Dammit.
  13. Yeah. It’s not at the moment. There goes my weekend. And probably hundreds more £
  14. I’m going to have to rotate the centre section tomorrow I guess. I’ve possibly scrapped that new pipe already though by kinking it so much. And I really know I’m going to really struggle to get this centre rotated.
  15. The old pipe did seem to fit a little better but it’s probably stretched over the years. It’s the original 30 year old pipe.
  16. After reading, I guess I need to ‘clock’ it. So no doubt I’ll snap each and every bolt and stud trying to do so. Including in the manifold which will then require me to remove the manifold, which will then snap the studs in the block. That’s how lucky I’m feeling today. I don’t think it’s shorter, think it’s the angle the turbo is at.
  17. It’s a hybrid turbo but based on a standard T3. The core where the pipes connect is certainly standard. I’ve spent so much time, money and hassle lately, I really don’t have the enthusiasm to try and rotate the turbo core so it fits better. I assume it probably needs taking off the car to do, which means a load, load more hassle dealing with ceized turbo bolts that you can’t even reach with anything but an open ended spanner. Then even if I do I’ll probably find I’ve already damaged the inner part of the hose. Pretty much ready to give in. Nothing is ever easy, normal, or even fits like it should!!
  18. So I got my new hose today, but it just didn't want to reach the turbo AND the sump! I connected the sump side first, but there was no way it was going to reach the turbo. The bottom hole did but the angle was impossible to get the top one in. So having checked with SJ sportscars they're all the same (they are.. from 88 to the end of production) I undid it from the sump, fitted the turbo end first then stretched it over to the sump and managed to get it on. Only cause for this I can imagine is if the core of the turbo where it connects was not quite rotated to the right position when it was put together? The old return pipe fitted ok though. Problem was, it kinked quite badly where I've circled the picture. I used a set of large mole grips to sort of squash it round again, which as you can see, has more or less got rid of the kink. I'm just worried now whether I've damaged the inner part of the tube that you can't see because of the braid, as it was kinked then straightened. Really bad day as this pipe was £190 by the time it was shipped!
  19. It’s only some very light scratching but I can imagine it would affect carbon.
  20. It's certainly weeping through the braid!! I guess I'll just replace it then.. 30 years old is long overdue.
  21. Just had my gearbox out so I've changed the rear crank seal while I was at it. The old one was fitted incorrectly, so I'm hoping this is the reason for so much oil in my engine bay. However, the braided section of the turbo oil return pipe is heavily caked in oil. I don't want to change it as I'm not sure that it's leaking.. it could be oil from the nearby crank seal. Also, it's not something that needs to be done while the gearbox is out. It's something I can do anytime. But in peoples experience.. does this pipe break down and leak? My car is 30 years old this year so I don't have a problem changing it if it needs it.. but it's about £180 so I only want to change it if it's really needed!
  22. I've got so much oil floating around my engine bay it's seldom anything rusts!! Hoping my new rear crank seal will help.
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