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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. I fitted a charge cooler to mine when it was originally on Carbs. It is doable, but a lot of the parts would be hard to source now I reckon, like the plenum pipe parts off a charge cooled car. I used my defunct air con rad for the charge cooler rad, and ran some custom alloy pipes from the back to the front in the gap between the chassis and the body. I use an electric water pump. There were a few other bits I needed to do, like make a reservoir for the charge cooler coolant and make up a few brackets and stuff, but overall it wasn't a massively difficult job. I did have to swap the inlet cam cover as well, as the oil filler is in the wrong place on a Carb turbo as it sits right under the charge cooler on an SE! I wouldn't like to tackle it now though due to lack of parts. I went on to remove the carbs and fit an Emerald M3D ecu and fuel injection, as well as a hybrid turbo. My car now makes 301bhp on a rolling road. Not bad considering it would have been specced at 215bhp when I bought it 21 years ago.
  2. Are you getting decent vacuum? If it's really noisy, it could be because the diaphragm in the pump has given up. Happened to mine and sounded like a load of quacking ducks.
  3. Is yours the wider one or the later narrower one? I’m not sure the reason they went narrower. It could be for regulations regarding body parts being wider than the car (could take pedestrians out) or for aerodynamic reasons. I know mine provides a lot of downforce as I get a bit of lightness at the front over 100mph which I don’t like.. and that’s with the narrower one. I imagine the wider one would provide significantly more downforce as there is more of the ends in clean air.
  4. Better Chargecooling is the proper way to do it. Water injection is an engineering equivalent of a workaround/bodge.
  5. Indeed.. I did say it was ages ago I heard that story. I certainly didn't have my water injecting before the turbo.
  6. I had water injection on mine as well, using an aqua mist system. It certainly kept the inlet tract nice and clean. I ran a 50/50 mix with water and screenwash which is usually methanol based. It never ran massively better, it was just here to prevent knocking really, which I didn’t get anyway so I removed it eventually as it was a faff remembering to keep it topped up and wasn’t a particularly tidy installation. The BMW M4 GTS has water injection so there is something in it. Although I suspect that’s partly because it would have been harder to fit a bigger chargecooler and radiator without redesigning parts of the car to accommodate them. Adding water injection is relatively easy. They will have something in the map that limits boost if the water level gets low though which you won’t. if you do fit it, I fitted my injector in the chargecooler, just after the central core, in the wider part before the air narrows back into the pipe work. It’s the biggest area that gets all the air all the time. I remember thinking the plenum chamber was actually too big. I think when Ford made the first 2,500 Escort Cosworths they used to have it injecting water in the inlet tract before the turbo. They used two Washer pumps in series to build up pressure, but then effectively had the inlet vanes of the turbo smash the water up into atomised particles to have more effect. My memory is not 100% on that though as I did year that story about 20 years ago. My car didn’t have a chargecooler when I got it, so I’m using the original Air con rad. Works really well.
  7. That's a shame.. he did a great job on mine. He's very well regarded in the GT40 replica groups, as they use the same gearbox. Mine seems spot on so far, not a drip!
  8. I think you had your gearbox rebuilt by Chris Cole? He did the same double O ring fitment on mine, and did mention a previous customer saying they’d used ratchet straps to get the driveshafts back in.
  9. For info, there were two widths as well. The earlier ones were about 12” wider. Many of them also suffered from yellowing in the sun so a lot were replaced under warranty. They’d not used UV stable epoxy. Some of those recalled ones were knocking around for a while. The South West Lotus centre had a couple. May be worth trying them.
  10. Unlikely. I have one on mine. I actually made a mould out of fibreglass a lot of years back, but it split sadly so I binned it after I’d made my wing. i eventually managed to get a genuine one but that was over 10 years ago.
  11. The problem is the oil seals on the end of the shaft. I have double oil seals fitted. A bit trickier to get the drive shafts back on, but when you do, no leaks!
  12. I ended up going for PNM Engineering PNMQ0014 kit for mine when I swapped it earlier in the year. My car has since been dyno'd at 301bhp and it seems fine. So that's another option. I didn't take a photo at the time of what the new clutch actually is though sadly.
  13. Yeah, I agree. With the amount of meddling you have to do on the Esprit to get the gear change nice already, adding yet another thing to have to line up with is only going to add to that nightmare.
  14. Yes, that's the one. I used a stainless dome head on mine, and even turned the end down slightly to get even more clearance.
  15. I’d make sure you change that hex head bolt on the gearbox pushing the gearchange cable for the correct domehead one it’s meant to be.. it’s pushing the cable onto an awkward angle which won’t be helping.
  16. I vent mine off to atmosphere via a small breather filter.. but then they don't have annual vehicle inspections where I live.
  17. Catalytic converters are for girls and hippies. 😎
  18. I’d be up for a group buy. I don’t need one at the moment, but I’d like one In stock for when I do, in case they’re not available at that time.
  19. I'd want the solenoids not just to release the flaps though, but open them as well. That would look ace!
  20. Mine are the cable release ones but I had this crazy idea once of fitting some reasonably strong servos to open the flaps all the way out at the same time, which could happen under heavy braking. Would look cool, but have little to no practical effect!
  21. I imagine heating it will soften if for sure. The use some polyurethane like Sikaflex when fitting the seal onto the new window. See how it's spaced on the runner before removing it though, or do one at a time so you can check.. otherwise you could end up in a world of pain aligning it all afterwards. They may have some spacers or something to have the glass exactly central in the channel.
  22. I think from memory, you do need to take the frame off. Then the weather strip.. and then the window will come out. The weather strip may be a bit rusty, so while it's off it's worth doing some work on it depending on how badly rusted it is. I don't think you can get the weather strips anymore. Try and mark the position of the washers and nuts holding the frame in, as this alignment is quite critical for the window to run smoothly. It could be this alignment has been out which is why the window has been rubbing and scratching. The older window mechanism with a single arm was very, very sensitive to alignment and would simply not close the window (or at least creep up mega slowly) if the alignment was out. The later two arm mechanism is much better at raising and dropping the window making the alignment slightly less critical.. hence the possible scratches you have. I changed from '88 style doors to the later style doors with Vauxhall door handles so I've been through this. You can actually get diamond polish to polish scratches out of glass. You apply it to a felt pad on a drill, but you have to be careful doing it as it makes the glass mega hot. I used it on my car when I had a scratch on my windscreen in my eyeline that was really bugging me, and it did indeed work.
  23. Wow. That crack is worrying. Glad I read this thread. Are new crank pulleys still available? I may get one for next time I replace my belt in case of future supply issues.
  24. You won't have Canbus problems, certainly not on an '89. But LED bulbs do have to go in with the positive and negative side correct, or they won't light up at all, so you need to test all the bulbs work before putting the binnacle back in. The wires are colour coded though, so you should be able to work out which is the positive and negative side in the bulb holder, and fit your bulbs accordingly. Not sure about the current draw of the alternator circuit bulb. Maybe stay with a normal bulb just in case on that one. Also, LED's don't generally like to be dimmed, so if you then try and use your dimming switch, they'll probably just flash a bit then go off. They're generally on or off, although some LED's for houses are dimmable. I doubt you can get ones this size that are dimmable so just make sure the dimming rheostat is turned up to full.
  25. It’s really not that hard to change the front hubs from the standard ones to the later style ones. Makes things a lot easier when it comes to brakes as they work like normal hubs, not that weird 4 hole 5 hole arrangement. assuming you can still get front hubs..
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