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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. Ah, I didn’t have any of those issues and I remember why now. I fitted S4 front hubs at the same time, and already ran S4 wheels. When I was on the older but original hubs and fitted later GT3 wheels, I had to turn the older hubs down by 1mm. When I fitted the newer hubs, my later wheels just went straight on as they were designed for those hubs. Same when I fitted the Magnesios. The later hubs do go straight on though. I don’t remember any massive dramas fitting them.
  2. I have the pnm brake kit front and rear, using V8 Brembo calipers at the front, and the standard Elise calipers at the back. Think mine are 330mm as I have the bigger Sport 350 alloys. I’ts a good kit, pnm really do engineer everything really nicely. Braking isn’t quite as good as on my M4, but is still pretty excellent and certainly a lot better than standard.
  3. You can buy the BUZ102S mosfet still, or a more modern equivalent like this one. I would then just make a heatsink myself with a thin piece of aluminium. They probably don't get that hot I would imagine, although those linear regulators are not very efficient. I try and use switching regulators in anything I do. If mine were to fail, I would slightly modify the case so that the heatsink would go through the case to the outside, so it will be able to cool properly in the air. Otherwise it could heat up inside a closed case. You could still seal it with silicon afterwards to stop water ingress. The heatsinks would not be damaged by the water if it was sealed.
  4. Yes. I’m in the UK and I removed this part on my car before I fitted injection. The car ran fine, even in our colder climate. I really wouldn’t worry about it. Just put it in a box somewhere and forget about it.
  5. I really don’t think it’s that important a part. They don’t often work anyway.
  6. On a carb turbo it keeps the throttle butterflies open a little during warmup.
  7. I do remember having to drop the nose of mine a bit, as it was causing understeer at speed, so it's possible this was the original cause. I got my shocks (and new springs) from SJ Sportscars. You can then wind the springs up and down to set the ride height how you like, as well as the strength of the dampers. They weren't super expensive. Also, on your wheels I see there are some bits without paint. Magnesium is terrible for corroding. I have the odd nick on my wheel, but I always paint some touch up, or clear lacquer as soon as I notice anything to stop them corroding. It's worth doing something with yours if there are any parts that the magnesium is exposed. It's a bit of a job to get them repainted as only a few places can do magnesium wheels and it's not cheap as it has to be done in an oxygen free environment. Cheers, Glyn.
  8. Indeed, his work is great. I’d just send the one you have to Jack. He’ll do a great job. And then you can customise it any way you like.
  9. Is 275 not a little too narrow for those wheels? I do have adjustable suspension which is where I was able to adjust the ride height. 275 sounds a little thin to me though. Wonder if using 235's at the front would upset the overall balance. Thing is, our cars aren't actually Sport 350's so the settings will never be optimal anyway, I guess.
  10. Checked my wheels last week. 235/40/17 fronts 295/35/18 rears Both are Pirelli P zero (red dots on them) These were the standard tyre type and size for that wheel that was tested by Lotus, which is why I went with them. They are still out there being made I think. I have a spare front brand new tyre in the shed. 10 years old but I'm hoping it'll be ok if/when I come to use it. I just did a google search on the wheel bolts, and the 350 ones should have 32mm of thread on them. I think the standard ones it's only about 25mm of thread or something.
  11. I think the OEM power steering has an extra bracket as there is an extra intermediate joint that needs supporting. This bracket is fitted somewhere that is impossible to get to with the body attached to the car.. I seem to remember.. Roger, do you have one of the control units that adjust the power assistance depending on speed? I have one on mine that is three stage, although the newer ones I think are even more finer than that. I'm very happy with my electric upgrade. Works really well for me. I used to weave all over the road before, and now I don't!
  12. I've used a guy called Jack at a company called Royal Steering Wheels for my BMW steering wheels. He has retrimmed two of them for me, and he does an amazing job. If you send him a leather sample I'm sure he could match it, and do the job for you. He can trim leather, alcantara, or a combination of both. You can choose whatever colour stitching you like. I swapped the Lotus steering wheel for a Momo one I liked, but it was a vinyl wheel. I sent it to Jack and he retrimmed it in real leather, with red stitching to match my colour scheme in the car. I think the price was about £150 including postage. Many of the BMW guys use him, as do people with Mercedes and Lamborghinis, so his quality is excellent. His email is [email protected]
  13. I have crono magnesio wheels on my Esprit which is an ‘88. I’d need to check my tyre sizes for sure, but they are the standard P zero Pirelli’s, whatever size those were. Tyres must be 10 years old but they’re still good, and with loads of tread. I really should do more miles! As for clearance.. the rear right sometimes scrapes a bit if I hit any large undulations at speed, and the fronts originally did foul the inner bodywork at full lock. But I did a tiny bit of grinding and refibreglassing and now it’s fine. It was areas you couldn’t see anyway and I’m quite good at fibreglassing so it wasn’t too much of a job. Good thing about having a fibreglass body. If these were fitted by a previous owner, make sure you have the correct wheel bolts. They’re longer for the magnesios. Something the previous owner may not have thought to do.
  14. I'm going to take the alternator off tonight and get someone to look at it for me. I think I've exhausted everything else while it's on the car.
  15. Got home tonight, disconnected the exciter wire and started the engine. The exciter wire was 12.4v (the same as the current battery state) so that sort of rules out any wiring issues with the car. I ran a bulb on a bit of wire between the main charging connection and the point you connect the exciter wire to, and the bulb lit up. This makes me think it is an internal alternator fault, as going straight from the charging connection to the exciter connection should make it charge.
  16. So going on from this, the fact it was charging intermittently before.. wondering if my problem is my start dropout relay is a bit sticky? Could account for it going on/off, and only coming on when the voltage was dropping below a certain amount, and things like that, when the voltage for the energiser in the relay coil wasn't enough to keep to open or closed. Sound possible?
  17. I've just spoken to a pal of mine who's a good engineer, (and owns a Lotus) and he's given me a bit of info on the exciter wire. So basically, the dashboard will have a 12v feed to the bulb. This then has a wire going to the alternator. When the alternator isn't charing, the exciter connection acts like a ground, so the battery light comes on. (powered from the dash). But when the alternator is charging, it provides 12v down that wire. The bulb then has the same 12v at either side, so doesn't light. So he's suggested running a wire from the battery, to a bulb, then to the alternator to simulate what's going on in the dashboard. So it's possible there is a wiring problem with that circuit, I'll check tonight and see. It's off that there is 2v though.. although if there is a short somewhere I guess this could cause this to happen maybe as the voltage leaks to earth. Finding that wiring problem will be another issue! But at least it's a start. At least I could bypass it for the time being if that is the problem. So yes Stuart, you've come to the same test process I have having spoken to my friend. I do indeed have a wiring diagram, so I'll consult that now. Cheers.
  18. I'm definitely only seeing about 2v on that smaller brown wire. When I disconnect it, I do get continuity to earth. Not sure what it's meant to do though, whether it's meant to be a higher voltage to initiate charging. It could be a fault up the wire, but it does give 2v when charging and ground when disconnected. I suppose that could indicate a short.. I'm just not sure what that wire is meant to read.
  19. They’re saying the thin wire needs to have power to tell the alternator to charge. I measured the thin wire while it was connected and the engine running and it only showed 2 volts. Should that be showing more than 12? i thought a test would be to disconnect my thin wire (to protect the instruments) then supply 12v directly from the battery to the thin wire terminal as a test to see if it charges. Does that sound like a good test? Where does that thin wire get its power from? Wonder if I have a sticky relay or something, and the alternator is actually fine.
  20. The supplier in the US emailed me about a soldered wire in the voltage regulator so I’ve asked for more detail as when I swapped it, the old one had nothing soldered and the new one just dropped in, and it did work properly for a while. The connections inside the regulator were soldered, but I did t have to so,dear anything myself. It’s making no charge at all right now so I’m guessing it’s something inside it has gone. These are recon after all. Who’s to know the recon process isn’t just brake cleaner, new voltage regulator, pop it on eBay. 😁 I’m sure they do more than that, so I guess I may have just been unlucky. ive checked all the connections for continuity and resistance, etc, so I’m pretty certain it’s the alternator. There’s not that much to the charging circuit on an Esprit after all. It’s not computer controlled or anything.
  21. If only I’d thought of that sooner! 😂
  22. I don’t think I’m going to get it out today. Far too much on. Maybe this week though one evening. and yes, I will measure the pulley.
  23. This ones off the net, from the USA. On paper it’s a better item than the original and the place has been going years and sold loads, so it’s obviousley just got some internal fault of some kind. I fitted a new voltage regulator but it’s stopped completely now. Bugger. Either way it’s got to come off I guess. Horrible job as everyone who’s taken one off knows. Cut wrists and hands await. May tackle it one evening this week. I’m away next weekend so I could do with getting it to someone before then. Im on the Isle of Man so I’m not sure who’d do it. There used to be a little old man who was an alternator specialist and really good, but he’s packed in and probably died now. People just don’t fix things anymore. Just swap them for new parts instead.
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