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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. So, looks like it's not working at all now. Checked there are good connections, and it all seems fine. Good connections and low resistance on the main charge cable, and low resistance on the smaller wire that goes to the dash. So, it's knackered I think. Not pleased, as it's only been in a year and probably used it 4 times. They only warranty them for something like 2 weeks as well.
  2. Of course if you’re fitting new ones you can chop the old ones out as you go in sections.. but that won’t work putting new ones back in.
  3. If there are any budding engineer/welders on here it would be worth buying a spare upper column and converting one, then doing them on an exchange basis from that point on. If you don’t mind using second hand parts, then a used motor is about £150 and a new controller is about £25. The rest would be just a bit of labour cutting and welding, and a few bits and bobs like shear bolts to re fit your own ignition lock to an exchange unit. Not sure where prices like £2,200 come from. Does need to be done well though. Welding a steering column is not something that can be bodged.
  4. Funny this actually. When I had my gearbox out, I had to helicoil a few of the holes. The holes in he sump were really quite tough, like the aluminium had hardened. Yet the holes in the block near the starter motor area were quite soft.
  5. When it stops charging, the voltage does drop sharply when measured at the battery. It's possibly it's a broken wire that is making an intermittent connection. Probably not the main battery wire, but the smaller one. I know these can go brittle. I'm going to investigate that wire tomorrow, and possibly replace it as far back as I can in case it's gone brittle in the engine bay. The battery is quite new (well, a couple of years old) but it's always been on a trickle charger so should be in good shape. I'm wondering about either an intermittent broken wire somewhere or corrosion on a terminal now. Going to have a go at all those things tomorrow as long as I get time.
  6. I'll measure it tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure it's the correct one. The extra belt length is because the alternator is slightly wider than the original one, so the pulley centre is actually about 1cm further away from the crank than it was on the original alternator, although the pulley is the same diameter. I'm going to try and give all the earths and leads a really good clean up tomorrow and see if that helps. It's funny how it was working fine, then just stopped. I bet when the charge drops it'll start working again though. It's odd.
  7. Curses. Took it for a drive this evening and everything was fine. Charging quite happily. Then all of a sudden, the battery light comes on and the voltage on my headhunt shows 11.5v (actually about 12.4v at the battery when I checked it when I got back). So it's stopped charging properly again. Checked the belt, that's fine and it's not slipping. Changed the voltage regulator last week and it's not cured it so it's not that. Checked the alternator body is earthing well and it is. Even tried an earth directly between the body and the battery - post last week so it's not that. Anything else it could be? Apart from the voltage regulator/brushes (which are one replaceable unit) I didn't think there was much else could go wrong with an alternator is there? Going to try it again tomorrow to see if it starts charging again when the voltage drops even more. Deliberately not put it on the trickle charger tonight.
  8. I actually ordered one of those a couple of days back, then realised I can display voltage on my stereo. at least I’ll be able to check they’re both the same reading.
  9. I’ve retrofitted the 96 interior with fewer gauges, so I’ve lost the battery gauge. having said that, I’ve just realised that as I have a Pioneer Avg-vdp1 I can actually use that to show me the battery voltage. My cold idle is about 1,000 rpm (I don’t have a throttle jacking solenoid or air bypass) so I’m pretty convinced now it starts charging after an initial rev which sort of wakes it up. will investigate tomorrow.. as well as measure my alternator pulley for Freek.
  10. It seems fine. When I first start the car, the battery light initially is on. If I gently rev it, the light goes off and it charges. When it drops down to idle, the battery light doesn't come on, it stays charging. So it seems to just be that initial first time after it's switched on as if it's initially 'sticky' and then works ok.
  11. All the bushes were changed, so it's all new up there now.
  12. Mine seems to be working fine now since I fitted the vesconite inhibitor. Probably not worth changing to a different lever, especially with my nice titanium shaft.
  13. When I first fitted it, the belt wasn't tensioned properly for sure. I have electric power steering, and when steering at low speeds the belt would squeal sometimes. So I ended up using a handy quick clamps thing, with the clamps set to push outwards (like this one) and I was able to use that to put some tension on the alternator and then tighten the bolts. Worked a treat! The standard belt definitely wouldn't go on though, which is why I went the next size up which was 2cm longer. It fits perfectly and it is tensioned correctly. I'm wondering now that the regulator has changed, it just needs the bushes bedding in slightly. Just need to put some miles on it really. I'm going to try and get it out this Thursday and Friday actually, the weather is still meant to be good.
  14. Actually, I remember now I did actually change to the original pulley! The reason the belt is about 2cm longer is because the body of the new alternator is slightly larger than the original, so the pulley is just 1cm further away which accounts for the extra 2cm on belt length. So maybe it just needs bedding in a little. It's working though, just odd you have to rev it from cold to get it to kick in. Looking on google at images, it does appear my new one is indeed a Bosch AL49X as well. We probably got them from the same guy as it came from the USA.
  15. May be it then. The output on mine (when it kicks in) seems to be about 13.6v, which although a little lower, is plenty enough. Guess I’ll just have to use it for a while without cheating with my trickle charger, and see how it behaves.
  16. The pulley on my new alternator is slightly bigger. I had to use a belt that was about 2cm longer than standard. Wonder if that’s causing it not to kick in until I rev it initially.
  17. Ok thanks. I’ll see how it beds in I guess. May take it for a drive today.
  18. I emailed the chap but didn’t get a reply. So no, not yet.
  19. Looks good! I only fitted two large Kenlowe fans when I installed a new alloy radiator. I worked out the CFM of air moved by just two kenlowe fans was far superior to the original 3 Ford Fiesta fans.
  20. So, fitted a new voltage regulator today. My trick of taking the plenum chamber off rather than the alternator worked a treat! Sooo much easier taking the plenum off, even factoring in cleaning off the old gasket. Also, gave me a chance to make sure there were no nasty surprises in the plenum chamber as well (Oil and/or charge cooler coolant!!) Started the car, didn't charge! But as has been said, it may have taken the new brushes some time to bed in. So I put a load of lights and electrical items on, revved the engine and it started charging. Turned everything off, stopped the engine, left the car 10 minutes and tried again with just the engine running. (No load). The battery light was still on, but then I revved the engine slightly and it started charging. So, it's kind of working ok now. Guess the regulator was a bit faulty. Still a little odd that I had to rev it to get it charging again, but I've a feeling it was like that all along! Odd cars.
  21. Thanks Jacques. I’m actually away at the moment, back home tomorrow, so I haven’t had a chance to touch the car. The alternator supplier in the US did send the two spare regulators though, true to their word, and they arrived just before I left to go on holiday. So I’ll swap one of those out when I get back. My plan is to remove the box part of the plenum chamber to gain access to the regulator, as this should only take a few minutes, whereas removing and replacing the alternator is a couple of hours and lots of cuts on the arms from the poor access to the bolts. I’ve got a new plenum chamber gasket sat waiting. The alternator I have is apparently the same type that was fitted to Mercedes in the 1980’s, but fully rebuilt. It was like new when it arrived so I’m hoping it’s just a faulty component on the brush unit. It’s had about 200 miles to bed in probably, but it’s the way it suddenly started working when the car got down to about 12v that makes me think the regulator is bad. Not sure what the flat electronic component on the back of it is, but I think it’s that that’s failed. Really hope it’s not melted like yours! Here is a stock picture from the original eBay add (not my car) showing the same alternator in situe on someone else’s Esprit. They say they’ve sold loads to Esprit owners with no issue, and have loads of 100% good feedback going back years, and they have seen me right with new regulators. I guess I just had an unlucky one.
  22. Gosh, if only I could remember what I did, as I binned off dim dip years ago.. probably 18 or 19 years ago in fact!! I remember it being very simple though, whatever I did, if that’s any help.
  23. I've actually got a pair of 1988-1996 electric window switches that I kept when I swapped to the later 1996 style interior. Are these still in demand or ten a penny?
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