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Glyn Harper

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Everything posted by Glyn Harper

  1. Thanks. I could probably get them. I think he logs all that so I'll ask.
  2. Well, last year when I first put my Esprit on the rolling road, I got ok figures, but a big hole in the torque curve. (275bhp it was making). At the time the hole was suspected to be wheel balancing as sure enough when I had the backs balanced, one was miles out. I put it back on the rolling road after wheel balancing (having done an oil and plug change as well) and power was down about 100bhp! The gearbox was also whining really badly, so I decided to get the gearbox rebuilt by Chris Cole. Turns out one of the bearings had broken in half, and the diff was in a bad way. Roll on 6 months.. I've got the gearbox back with a new cryo treated (stronger) crown wheel and pinion, new (second hand) diff, and all new bearings and everything setup correctly, which apparently it wasn't before. Also fitted a new clutch, re surfaced the flywheel, new spigot bearing and crank seal.. as well as several other little jobs to stop oil leaks, along with a few helicoils added here and there as necessary. I went on the rolling road again today, and the power is indeed back with a vengeance! These figures are 25bhp up on what I had before my mysterious power loss, so I'm guessing the gearbox really was knackered! Very happy with these curves. And sure enough, the flat spot has gone, guess it was down to wheel balancing after all. These are calculated flywheel figures, but at the bottom you can see the actual wheel figures as well.
  3. If you’re struggling to access the back of the sunroof where the catches are, you can pop the gas struts off the tailgate and it’ll lift up a lot higher then. Make sure you have someone helping you though and a suitable piece of wood or something to keep it propped up higher. It’s amazing how heavy the tailgate suddenly gets with no struts attached.
  4. I had a sticking calliper on my old brakes before I moved to brembo ones. The sliding part of the caliper and the body of the caliper that holds the piston are different metals and they react to make a layer of corroded material on the sliding surfaces. This builds up and deforms the shape of the caliper squashing the piston and preventing it moving. I thoroughly cleaned the surfaces where the two halves of the caliper meet with a wire brush and a file, and it returned to a normal shape and no longer trapped the piston. Worth checking this if it binds again as it’s an easy fix really and your caliper will then be good for years more to come.
  5. Right, cheers. The Later ones don’t seem to have the circular disc on the pivot mechanism then.
  6. I’d be in through the sunroof. Plastic trim tool, or at worst, a coat hanger.
  7. Ok, great. Thankyou. I've started ordering parts, although after my gearbox repair I'm a bit short of funds!
  8. Ah ha! Yes, that makes total sense now! Thankyou. Rivet is correct.
  9. Ok, I think I understand, thankyou. What is the word 'nitte' ? I don't know what word. Maybe that is why I do not understand properly.
  10. You can get home anodising kits. I don't know how easy they are to use though. There are youtube videos on the subject.
  11. Thanks, that is very useful! So, did you cut down the main arms and then drill new holes to fit them back onto the wiper mechanism part? Where exactly did you fit the spacers?
  12. If the tailgate is open, I think you may be able to get a piece of thin plastic (like a trim tool) between the sunroof and the rubber, and open the latches for the sunroof maybe? You could then remove the sunroof and gain decent access to the door handle and lock mechanisms on the inside. You may have to do it gradually one side at a time to open the sunroof gradually, allowing more access where you can then get another tool in without damaging the roof or the seal. Remember the sunroof will want to clash with the tailgate as it's opening, so be careful. You may have to get it half way then close the tailgate (onto some rags to stop it latching!)
  13. Thanks for clearing that up Ian.. Quite a different arrangement on the later cars!
  14. How did you get on Owen? I’d still love to modify my wiper. I don’t have a welder though if I need to cut and shut anything.
  15. On the diagram you posted, ONLY the cap on the expansion tank (173) is a pressure cap. The cap on the header tank (111) just has a rubber in the top to seal the actual bottle. It has no spring in there and does not seal within the tank, just at the surface. The chargecooler cap (112) is a pressure cap.. but I think a different pressure rating to 173. Otherwise, as you say, fluid will not be able to flow back into the header tank from the expansion tank. I’ve heard before people have fitted the caps the wrong way around so you’re not the only person to do that.. if indeed you have I don’t have the bottle you must have, so I don’t have cap 137. But if I understand correctly the difference in the later car, then 137 should should be a flat cap without a spring. Is that the bottle that was when the chargecooler and engine coolant were together with the same expansion tank? I’m glad mine are separate. I took mine for a run tonight and checked the expansion tank. It increases the fluid level by about 25mm when the engine is hot, then drops back down to the marker line as it cools down. About your pipe.. Are you sure the pipe is corroded so badly you need to change? Can it be sanded back to a smooth finish that will seal again? when aluminium is in contact with water and air and then it moves or vibrates, I believe it produces an electric charge which causes corrosion.. so yes, it’s possible. It’s the same reason allow wheels go powdery and you get a white rust tracking under the lacquer. If you are fitting a new pipe, anodising it will help.
  16. I just bought a new one from SJ Sportscars in the UK. I think it’s not been sealing properly for years but all looks good now.
  17. Yes, mine does it as well. I mentioned this on another thread just the other day.
  18. I was sick of my original fuel gauge as it would bounce all over the place. I replaced it with a SPA programmable gauge with a built in low fuel level LED.. they don't appear to sell it anymore though as I bought it about 15 years ago, but there are plenty of others. I paired it with one of these senders from Demon Tweeks, purchased at the right length for the height of the tank. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/gauge-sender-units/vdo-dip-tube-type-fuel-sender-for-vdo-gauge I can't remember or not if the fitting was the same as the Lotus one as I had an alloy fuel tank made at the time to suit. To calibrate the fuel level I just marked out a welding rod with a marker pen at 1/8 intervals (or whatever the programming intervals were) then pushed the sender up the tube at the desired intervals.This was before fitting it to the car so it was really easy. Then when it was all calibrated, I fitted the new sender into the tank. I now get accurate fuel levels without the needle and fuel level bouncing all over the place. I did fit fuel tank baffle foam into the tank at the same time though.
  19. That’s the actual expansion tank. The header tank in the engine bay is more of just a central point really for the turbo return and where the pipes for the expansion tank go in and out. Without an expansion tank you’ll blow hoses off unless you put the pressure cap there. It is meant to be about 1/4 full. Coolant expands into it then as it contracts, it’s pushed back into the other metal tank. Doesnt seem to do that on mine though, so that expansion tank is always empty, and the header tank usually about 3/4 full. I’ve actually just fitted a new pressure cap today as it happens to see if that fixes it. -edit- it works! The new pressure cap has fixed mine. Went for a run earlier. Now it’s cooled down I’ve checked, and the header tank is full. And the expansion tank is the correct 1/4 full.
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