electro_boy
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Posts posted by electro_boy
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In the following picture
I believe circled green is the coupler hose. Yellow is the throttle body. And red is the super charger.
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Thanks for the feedback. I will make up a short loop with fun roads near me and have a play with the pressures to see what feels good.
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Beautiful car @Evora 400, very nice colour scheme, that car just looks right! Hope you have some amazing driving adventures!
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@rallyesax - any advise on what pressures to run the PS4 on the 18/19 rims on the Evora NA? Currently I'm using same as recommended by Lotus for the P-zero 33psi front and 36 psi rear. Is it a general rule that Michelin tyres will require less pressure than Pirelli tyres?
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I'd say 3rd cat deletion is worth it. I've been to a couple meet ups and my Evora seemed to sound a bit louder and have more crackles in the overrun than some other cars. As far as I was aware I had the standard sports exhaust on my car but found out on the weekend when I had my diffuser off that the cat was missing and replaced with a straight pipe. I guess this is the reason my car sounds different to other NA cars?
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The driving academy in Heathel has LHD cars. They certainly did when I attended last summer. We had an American in our group who struggled with the RHD car in the morning session on the first day. By lunchtime they had a LHD car ready for him. If you do attend let them know before hand so they can have the car serviced and ready for you .
Ps I highly recommend it. Loads of fun, very interesting and you learn a LOT about driving a car on the track. The instructors are very knowledgeable and are able to impart that knowledge to you. I was driving much faster by the end of each day but also felt safer in the car even though I was pushing it closer to its limits.
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I have the lotus sports exhaust and (just found out today when under the car ) also have 3rd cat delet pipe. Sounds pretty good nice deep burble and a crackles and pops on the overrun. It’s 4kg lighter than the standard one too. I think volume wise it sits between the valved exhaust when open and closed. I think these are often available 2nd hand.
Is the MY12 S exhaust valved? Will this complicate fitting the the exhaust? Adding additional vacuume pipes and wiring?
2bular is often praised on these forums, it will be louder but might push you over noise limits if you track your car. Other popular Evora exhausts are Komotec available from Hangar111 or Larini exhausts.
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So all the bolts were well and truly stuck in, they did not want to move at all. I live in a flat and the car park has limited space and access to power for tools etc ... plus I just don't have the experience for this kinda work.
So I ended up taking to a local garage to had to drill the bolts out and even do a bit fabrication to fix some captive nuts that where no longer captive. Took them most the day to get the job done. So in some ways relieved it wasn't just me being a numpty but then also had to fork out for a few hours labour at a garage.
Any ways all screws/bolts/nuts for the diffuser have been replaced with stainless steel ones and a dab of copper grease on them. So hopefully next time the diffuser has to come off it'll be a much more straight forward job. I also replaced the the allen headed ones with Torx ones so should be able to take a bit more torque before they start rounding off.
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Thanks for the link. Kind of validates what I was thinking, for drier conditions the all season is a better tyre.
Advice I got from Michelin was their CrossClimate+ was not designed to be stored (its designed to be constantly used), so they would not recommend using it as winter tyre and swapping it for a summer tyre later on. Instead for me they recommended the Pilot Alpin 4 so that's what I went for. It was a very slow online chat system so I didn't hang around to ask them exactly what it was about the CrossClimate+ means that it does't store well. I think the all season tyre is getting more development from many manufacturers in resent years and could end up being a very useful tyre for the south of UK.
I'm happy with my Pilot Alpin 4. Under normal driving conditions you definitely feel the tyre is softer and keys into the road surface better than PS4 otherwise feels like any other good tyre. On a spirited drive you can feel the tread block shift on initial turn in to a corner but then it stays there and the feel is consistent. It takes a little while to get used to that sensation but once you know to expect it, everything is fine. I've only used it briefly in snowy / slushy conditions and it behaved much better than a summer tyre, I just drove (carefully) and didn't really have think about getting traction etc I just drove the car and it was all an no event. Was fun watching other peoples faces as I calmly went about my merry way. Sure the summer or all season tyre may be faster but I'm not really driving for fun in the current climate, I can wait till warmer climate to go have fun in the car again, so I can put up with the reduced perforce in mild weather for better safety when the weather is really crap.
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This thread may help regarding the belt ...
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Awesome thank you Dave and Steve for the tips on getting the stuck screws out and the sizes required very much appreciated.
Will pop to the hardware store and pick up some M6 20mm screws and some M8 hex bolts.
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I was hoping to get the bolt sizes / specs so I can preorder a full set to have them ready and quicken up the turn around time.
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I recently got a new diffuser, I went to bolt it onto the car yesterday but found many of the bolts had seized and starting rounding off the heads. Pretty much every bolt was rounding off so I stopped for fear of making things worse.
I tried some WD40 which didn’t help much so I’ve ordered some proper penatrating fluid to see if that will help get the bolts off.
Assuming I do eventually get the bolts off I’d like to replace the whole lot as they can’t be in good condition now.
I had a look on Deroure but can’t find them.
Here are two pages related to the diffuser and undertray assembly but I can’t see the parts for the bolts?
https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=6686&MAK=1&MDL=20&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0
https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=6687&MAK=1&MDL=20&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0
There are lots of 4mm Allen bolts, a couple 5mm Allen bolts and a few 10mm hex bolts.
Any one know where to get replacements from?
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Looks like a well engineered and competitive chassis to build from.
While I like Williams and I hope it’s a very successful partnership I wish it was fully engineered from ground up by Lotus.
I think they have the experience in house from Tesla days and the Eveora hybrid prototype so would’ve been nice to have a full Lotus design.
But I’m a fan of Williams Engineering and this will speed up development if the hypercar and get it to market quicker.
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Thanks Bruss that’s good enough for me just needed a rough idea of spacer size.
Mik, I do find the seats very comfy, one of the best car seats I’ve sat in. I’ve spent 4 hours straight in the drivers seat and had no comfort issues... but I think they can be improved with a bit extra thigh support.
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Ah awesome a nice simple mod, I like that!
Bruss do you know roughly how big spacers you added at the front?
I’ll pop along to B&Q and get a pack of washers to stack under there. But no idea what’s the ball park I’m aiming for? 5mm / 10mm / more?
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I was wondering if the Evora S1 seats could be a bit more comfy if they were raked back a bit and provided a bit more support under the thighs. I did a little searching around on this forum and I've seen some posts about seat brackets for the carbon seats made for the newer cars but didn't anything about the older S1 cars.
Has anyone done this mod to their car? Did it improve the comfort? Are there any aftermarket brackets available for this? any info much appreciated ...
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Do you mean the sail panel ? The gloss black piece with the vents at the top of the rear hatch? I’ve seen it been wrapped on a different Evora so yes i think it should be possible.
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Mine took about 2.5hours I think they quote 4 hours just to be on the safe side.
They have a reception area with sofas, tables and WiFi. So you can do work or just chill out and watch them working away on your car.
The carbon wrap really is very good, the weave has depth/ 3D nature to it so looks very realistic. I really don’t keep up to date with wrapping technology so it’s possible the normal standard is very good these days but the guys did say they believe they have one of the best products available.
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Yep I havr a large paint chip in the drivers mirror which would show up through the wrap.
So I’m gonna get that repaired properly and painted, so no point in wrapping it. I’m hoping it won’t cost too much as it’s just a couple of mirrors.
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Howdy all, Im back from getting my car wrapped, I went for gloss on the roof and matt on the sills. I took a look at carbon wrap that Clive used and it was very good quality and looked very realistic. But decided to stay closer to the standard Sport Racer look.
The guys at Signs and Graphics UK were great, really friendly and knowledgeable and great quality work, I would highly recommend them to anyone wanting to get any sort of wrap done.
The car is absolutely filthy with all the salt on the roads at the moment but luckily doesn't show up too well on the photos, just makes the colour look a bit duller than normal. I like the matt black on the sills as it makes the cut outs in the sills deeper and the gloss black on the roof is a pretty much exact match for the a pillars and the sail panel.
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If you have a RCA connection for your camera then pop onto ebay / amazon and get a cheep replacement camera, even if its just to see if the loom is correct and its just a dud camera. I have a cheap and cheerful camera and monitor set up for my van and the quality is comparable to the Alpine camera. They will be a different fitting to the Alpine camera so you may have to bodge up a bracket or something for it. But they cost £10 so even if its just to check the loom and rule out a dodgy camera its worth it.
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ah got you! the black ribbed thingy just in the corner of the pic? Yep that would make a lot more sense.
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Howdy guys,
Just double checking I've understood the instructions about jacking the car up correctly. Here is a pic of the rear jacking point on the passenger side, the blue sticker is pointing directly at a bolt head.
Should the bolt head be in the centre of the jacking head? I'm concerned about not spreading the load over the jack head and placing it all the bolt and also the jack not being secure as its balancing on the bolt.
or can I place the jack head directly on top of the sticker, so just to the side of the 3 bolts?
Finally am a correct in thinking, lifting the car from the rear jack point will lift both the front and the rear wheels?
thanks all
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Analogue speedo off by about 10mph
in Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC/Other
Posted
Is this possibly a quirk if not letting the dials do their full sweep back and forth when switching on the car?
Is the sweep some sort of calibration?