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    Esprit X180 2.2 NA

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  1. Thank you Bibs, not faulting anyone, but was just upset that Parcel2Go was not very helpful. Greatly appreciate what you are doing. Looking forward to getting this resolved.
  2. HI, can I know if there is someone specifically in charge of the shop? I have made a purchase on 10 Oct 2020, and the package went missing during transit on 14 Dec 2020. I know there may be delays due to the COVID19 situation, but it has really been tooo long. It is a package that cost me £263.95 and am really upset. The order number is #4395. I tried contacting the courier but they wanted the sender to contact them instead of me. Please can someone assist? Incidentally, what are my options if the package is lost in transit? Thank you.
  3. Been some time, and finally had the wheels aligned in one of the shop. Will be doing another alignment next year after the corner weight adjustment. The alignment seems quite alright, except maybe the caster is a little less than spec, and the shop adjusted the camber more for the rear (I have adjustable top links) but i should be able to drive around till Jan 2021..
  4. This I do understand, but not the previous shop i went to for alignment. they placed shim plates on both sides at the ball joint but they only added 1 single 3mm shim washer at the front end of the upper wishbones
  5. Nope, they were not placed in accordance to the manual when I removed them.. as i have stated wrt the front castor settings.. i am not sure if I am right or wrong in my interpretation of the manual, but I would like to put everything back to spec and then do the adjustment accordingly
  6. I moved everything when I replaced all the bushes and the suspension
  7. Yes, that's what I thought too, as the toe in spec is very minimal. From what I understand, the shim plates should only be used if we are not able to achieve the correct toe in by moving the shim washers. the manual states that "Rear wheel alignment is adjusted by transferring shim washers between the inner and outer sides of the radius arm at its front mounting. IF correct adjustment cannot be obtained by transference of the three 1mm shim washers, spacer plates MAY BE fitted between the radius arm mounting and the chassis." hence I am resetting it back to specs, without the sh
  8. Hi Andy, minimum is 6mm this is the instructions in the manual for the front suspension- "Provision is made for castor adjustment by the distribution of shim washers (total thickness 6 mm) between the front and rear of the chassis at the top wishbone pivot stud. In all cases, a 1.5 mm shim washer must be retained between the front wishbone arm and chassis to ensure adequate clearance between arm and chassis under extreme conditions. If the correct castor cannot be achieved by distribution of these shims, it is permissible to fit an additional 1. 5 or 3.O mm shim washer bet
  9. Finally had time to look at the original specs... the rear toe in is 1.5mm each side +/- 0.5mm, which works out to be 0­°8' to 0°15' on my 18" wheels... so the adjustment should be very minimal, hence the 1.1mm washer.. I think ..
  10. I have set them back to specs. Although the car was within the alignment specs before i replaced the bushes, i found that the shims were not correctly inserted. Eg, there were shim plates on each side of the ball joint at the front wishbone. The manual states that the shim plate should be diagonally across the shim washers, but it was not. So i thought it was best i reset to spec As I have the adjustable wishbone at the front and adjustable link at the rear, setting the camber is relatively easy. I will however have to first set the caster before i send to the shop with the
  11. Hi Dave, I would definitely do the corner weight balancing and getting the alignment professionally set, but there is only 1 guy doing corner weight balancing in my country, and my slot is in January 2021..! In the mean time i would like to drive my car, and the shop with the Hunter alignment machine wants only to set the front camber and toe, as well as the rear camber. They do not want to help to set the front caster and rear toe, hence i have to try to set it myself as close to spec as required. Hence this thread..
  12. Thanks Andy, I did kind of realised that shifting the shim washers from inside to outside will have minimum effect, but that was the recommendation in the manual. When i removed the radius arm to fit the bushes, there were 2 pieces of shim plates, 1 1.6mm and another 6mm on the driver side, and only 1 6mm plate on the passenger side. But again, the recommended spec is not a big value. Can't remember exactly as I do not have the manual with me now. But your calculations will definitely help. Thank you.
  13. Yes, Part 27 can be slipped in. There was information for front toe adjustment, which states that 1.5mm increase toe by approximately 1°, hence I could more or less calculate the width of shims needed. The rear I can only do on a hoist, which I need to "borrow" from a friend who owns a workshop, hence I cannot afford to take up too much time on the hoist. Really appreciate if someone can give me an estimate. Thank you.
  14. I have recently replaced my shocks and bushes, so I need to redo my alignment. I have the information for the front suspension, but not sure about adjusting the rear toe. I have 3 shim washers on the inner side of the radius arm at the front mounting and 1 shim washer on the outer side, as per the diagram in Page 4 of Section DC in the manual. The shim washers are 1-1.1mm. Anyone can advise what is the effect of shifting 1 shim washer from the inside to the outside, and shifting the shim washer outside to the inside of the front mount. Part 37 in the picture. The space
  15. I have done that actually, replaced all with LEDs. but thought that replacing it with the newer type may help things a little in future since I have it with me... Will do that. Thanks
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