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    Esprit X180 2.2 NA

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  1. My indicated speed is higher than my actual speed, so I am safe with the traffic police !
  2. yes! big thanks to you @CHANGES sorry did not manage to get a better pic, but the one with holes is originally from PNM, and the 2nd is the one my machine shop fabricated.. although it does still have the occasional squeal, which is common for the mintex pads I'm using... the squeal is softer and not as high pitch
  3. I have solved my squealing issue with a new bell just like yours. Thanks!
  4. I have managed to solve this issue by fabricating a solid hub to replace the original hub with holes from PNM. My brakes has since stopped squealing like pigs to slaughter. It has been 2 weeks and am using my original Mintex pads. All is good. Thanks for the advise everyone.
  5. Sorry about the driveshaft again... My old driveshaft was leaking grease at the joint, and I am looking to repair them. However, my regular shops like SJ and pnm does not sell the h joint separately. Anyone knows if I can weld the moving joint, or the cover is available to purchase somewhere. Thanks.
  6. Used silicon on the pins and splines and all seems good now.. Will need to monitor for a few days.. Thanks for the advice
  7. Yes.. The slots are opposite.. Will try with the o-ring.. Need to find the correct size I guess..
  8. I replaced my driveshaft and now the pins are leaking. Have replaced oil seal and applied silastic. Any suggestions where it might have gone wrong? Thanks. VID-20190131-WA0035.mp4
  9. According to the website "The BlazeCut system uses HFC-227ea or HFC-236fa, which is an extremely effective, clean and people-safe extinguishing medium." Although I have no idea what that is...
  10. Installed this today as I find it a pretty good product. No tanks, wiring and remote switche. The product is called Blazecut. Looks quite effective from the promotional videos, but I hope I do not have a chance to test it's effectiveness on my Esprit.. I was told it has a 10 years life span, although we do need to check the pressure every once a while. One end of f the hose has a built in pressure meter. At approximately £200 I think it is a worthwhile investment.
  11. So... to bring this thread to a close.. I decided to retune the carbs again. However, this time round, i started from zero and reset everything, including the throttle balance lever. As usual, i set the CO2 (idle mixture screw) to 3.5 turns as a base, with all idle air bypass screw closed. Set idle to about 900plus, and then i did something new which i read somewhere that i should adjust the CO2 screws to obtain the highest reading for each barrel. And i did that. I turned the CO2 screws both direction to get the highest readings for each barrel. I lost count on 2 barrels and had to restart again. But i eventually learned that i only need to turn either directions within a full turn to obtain the highest reading at the 4 barrels. At this point the readings are different between the barrels. After that i had to readjust the idle as it has increased to above 1000rpm. Then i started to adjust the throttle balance screw to get the lowest in the front carb to the lowest in the rear carb. I relised also that i not only have to turn the throttle balance screw, but also the other screw facing it. I needed to back off the other screw as i turn in the throttle balance screw to make sure that the other screw is just touching the plate in between the 2 screws, or the readings will not be accurate. Finally managed to get the lowest reading in the front carb to be near the lowest in the rear carb after fiddling with the 2 screws numerous times. Then, i had to readjust the idle again ad it has increased to above 1000rpm. Then i adjusted the idle air bypass screws next. I realised i made the same mistake in my few tries tuning the carbs. Instead of adjusting the readings between the barrels in the same carb, i adjusted the highest reading in the front or rear carb(can't remember which) to match the lowest reading in the other carb, which was wrong. I should have lowered the higher reading to match the lower of the different barrels in the same carb and do the same for both carbs. So i did just that. And now only 1 idle air bypass screw is open in each carb. I had to readjust the idle after that as it increased again. I realised that i have to do minor adjustment numerous times to get everything right (hopefully), and it was not a matter of simply adjusting the CO2 screws to 3.5 turns and then simply adjusting the idle air bypass screw. It takes many tries fiddling around the screws, and if i messed up i had tp start from zero again. But i think i might jave achieved something today. The 1st photo is the readings without AC, the 2nd with AC. I realised the car idles more stable, the exhaust sounds nicer too.. But that maybe just my imagination. I took the car for a spin, the hesitation is gone ( or at least it was not as obvious as yesterday), the car pulls smoother and stronger, and the exhaust only pops when i release the accelerator after a fast run at 4th gear, no longer at 2nd, 3rd and 4th like yesterday. I am much happier with how the car is running now compared to yesterday, and the exahust seems to sound smoother than before i adjusted the timing too. Overall i am happy with the results. Thanks everyone for the contribution and advices given and bearing with me, especially my lack of knowledge. Probably last post for the year as I will be going for my year end family vacation next week. Here's wishing everyone a Merry Xmas and Happy New Year. Oh... Sorry for the long post. Cheers! Oh... The readings has also increased from 150plus to 170plus... Can't upload the 2nd photo due to bandwidth. Will post later.
  12. Thank you Sparky. So you are saying I should not revert back to 20° BTDC. I do realised that the car likes to run a little rich. I will try to readjust tomorrow. If i cannot get it to run smoothly i will have to send it to the tuner. Hopefully i will be able to learn a thing or two from him. As for the valves, i dont think i will ever be able to tackle that. Best to leave it to a competent workshop. In the meantime my search for a competent workshop continues. My friend refused to service my car.. Hahaha.. Too much effort for the money he claims..
  13. Sorry had to stop short as family duty calls. So the maximum timing i could get was 10° BTDC after i rotated the distributor and moved the plug leads 1 position anticlockwise. I then redo the idling and balanced the carb according to the manual. One thing i realised is that the readings on the manometer is much lower. Previously the readings at 20° BTDC were around 178 but now they were around 160. I am not sure what that means and may imply. I did not notice any significant difference before and after i rotate the distributor during idling. However, when i drove the car, i could feel some hesitation, at 2nd gear, and the car does not seem to pull as strongly and smoothly as before. Also, previously the exhaust 'pop' occasionally, but now the exhaust 'pops' through 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. It happens when i release the gas to shift the gears. It may be because i was in a rush when i was tuning the carbs, but the difference in how the car feels at 20° BTDC and 10° BTDC is quite pronounced. I will try to check the tuning again tomorrow and update. Maybe reposition the distributor back to the original position too if time permits. Fortunately i was reminded by fellows here to mark the position of the distributor prior to me rotating it. So hopefully should not be too much problem. Appreciate any thoughts and what i might have done wrong. The photo is the ignition timing after I rotated tge distributor and adjusted the timing gun to 10° advance. Thanks. Thanks for the encouragment! Learning new stuffs at 49 like a 7 year old is never easy... But next time i will start with that statement... Hahaha
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