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    Esprit X180 2.2 NA

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  1. I have the OZ Racing Crono on my 1990 NA. I am thinking to install the LOTAC Suspension, but I am not sure about the clearance as the LOTAC suspension cannot be adjusted. Anyone can advise please before I put in the order as the suspension are really not cheap. Original spec 7Jx15 +23.3 195/60 front, 8Jx15 +30 235/60 rear Now - Racing Crono 8.5Jx17 +19 225/45 front, 10Jx18 +17 285/35 rear Thank you.
  2. on sale now
  3. HI, it's been a long time since I visited, hope everyone is well. My wiper is not activating at the first position, but works well when at the second position. It also does not return to rest correctly when i flick it to the off position. I read that most of the time it is because of a faulty wiper delay module so I replaced it with a new one bought from SJ. However, the problems remain. Any idea what else I should look at? The wiring look to be alright, and I have tried to clean the contacts where I could. Thanks.
  4. Sorry for the late reply. Just came home 2 weeks back and had been busy. Yes, the rod was turning when I held on to the metal piece. I replaced the piece and it is now working. It used to be intermittent but works really well now, so i guess it was starting to loosen some time back. Really glad i have my lights back.
  5. The screw gear on the motor is engaging the big plastic gear. When i turned the rod the big gear was not turning. I can actually turn the small rod with one hand while holding onto the big gear with another hand. Not free turning but with a little effort. It seems to catch at a certain point but if I tried to turn it again the resistance became lesser after that point. The rollers are like new when I opened them last week. I am wondering what is inside securing the rod. I have never read of this part failing though. I will have to remove the motor again next month as I will be
  6. Which are the ptfe rollers? The 3 small round thing? I did replace the big plastic gear and the 3 small round part inside and also applied a generous amount of grease. I was able to turn the small rod with my hand though.. The one arrowed in the 1st post. I am thing I should not be able to do that..
  7. Hi, recently had some problem with my left(passenger) side headlights. The headlight pod is unable to stay open. I discovered that when the motor is connected to the long rod, I am unable to lift the pods manually by turning the knob. However, if I disconnect the long rod, i can see that the small rod at the motor side is turning. I was also able to push the headlight pod up simply by pushing on the long rod. I have opened and check the motor, all gears are intact and good (just replaced them 3 months back). However, I realised that I could turn the rod at the motor. Has
  8. An unfortunate thing happened.. To me at least I hooked up my spark tester to check for spark from the coil, using the no. 3 plug wire connected to the coil at one end and my spark tester at the other, and there was no spark. I replaced the wires, and lo and behold, the car started. I did a quick measure and all voltages and resistance were in spec. I even drove the car around and tried to on and off the engine, and it started everytime. Guess I might have to wait for the problem to occur again before I can check further ?
  9. Noted. Busy day today can only check again later in the evening. Thanks
  10. I did this test and also the rest previously, but I will do it again later. I was assuming No. 4 is referring to the case of the amp when I did the test last time. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks.
  11. So, looking at the circuit diagram, it is a relatively straight forward connection. To eliminate an intermittent wire connection, I am thinking of re-running the wires from the amp to the coil and also to the distributor, and isolating the wires to the rpm relay and rpm limiter. This will greatly simplify the circuit, leaving the amp, distributor and coil. What do you guys think? CircuitDiag.pdf
  12. OK, so I swooped back to the Lucas coil (the one in the car now is a Viper) and the car could not start. I was happy for a while and when I fitted the Viper, the car still could not start. Unfortunately I forgot to bring my spark plug socket home. Tomorrow I will check the spark from the coil as the voltages were correct. Incidentally, can I know how I can crank the engine and check the sparks alone? I sort of read somewhere that I can run a wire from the battery to the starter to remotely crank the h engine? Thanks
  13. hmm... this is interesting maybe if the fail occurs again I will pull the distributor and fit in the Powerspark and see what happens.. thanks
  14. I am also not sure about turning the distributor by hand, but that was how it was tested for contact point distributor. I am not sure if it is the same for inductive type pick up. The Lucas AB14 does have a GM amplifier inside, the only difference is the additional capacitor and Zener diode. nevertheless, I have ordered the amp, rotor cap, rotor arm, inductor pickup, the wire from amp to distributor from SJ. I am not sure if they are original Lucas or not, as many of the original Lucas products are NLA. I hope that whatever they have provided will help to solve the problem if it was
  15. I would like that also, but I will not be able to identify which is the faulty part unless I replace them 1 at a time. I did the measurements to check the voltages and resistance of the ignition parts as per the service manual, but all seemed to be fine then. I will probably need to do that again. Also to try the original Lucas coil that I removed since the resistance seems to be ok. I realized that I do have a spare ignition amplifier, although it is a Cambiare VE520227 instead of a GM unit. can't remember why I bought this. I also have a spare capacitor for the Lucas AB14. So if it
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