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    Esprit X180 2.2 NA

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  1. Sorry for the late reply. Just came home 2 weeks back and had been busy. Yes, the rod was turning when I held on to the metal piece. I replaced the piece and it is now working. It used to be intermittent but works really well now, so i guess it was starting to loosen some time back. Really glad i have my lights back.
  2. The screw gear on the motor is engaging the big plastic gear. When i turned the rod the big gear was not turning. I can actually turn the small rod with one hand while holding onto the big gear with another hand. Not free turning but with a little effort. It seems to catch at a certain point but if I tried to turn it again the resistance became lesser after that point. The rollers are like new when I opened them last week. I am wondering what is inside securing the rod. I have never read of this part failing though. I will have to remove the motor again next month as I will be in Italy for my holiday from tomorrow ... will try to update again then. Thanks guys.
  3. Which are the ptfe rollers? The 3 small round thing? I did replace the big plastic gear and the 3 small round part inside and also applied a generous amount of grease. I was able to turn the small rod with my hand though.. The one arrowed in the 1st post. I am thing I should not be able to do that..
  4. Hi, recently had some problem with my left(passenger) side headlights. The headlight pod is unable to stay open. I discovered that when the motor is connected to the long rod, I am unable to lift the pods manually by turning the knob. However, if I disconnect the long rod, i can see that the small rod at the motor side is turning. I was also able to push the headlight pod up simply by pushing on the long rod. I have opened and check the motor, all gears are intact and good (just replaced them 3 months back). However, I realised that I could turn the rod at the motor. Has anyone encountered the similar problem with the motor? VID_20191117_182654.mp4
  5. An unfortunate thing happened.. To me at least I hooked up my spark tester to check for spark from the coil, using the no. 3 plug wire connected to the coil at one end and my spark tester at the other, and there was no spark. I replaced the wires, and lo and behold, the car started. I did a quick measure and all voltages and resistance were in spec. I even drove the car around and tried to on and off the engine, and it started everytime. Guess I might have to wait for the problem to occur again before I can check further ?
  6. Noted. Busy day today can only check again later in the evening. Thanks
  7. I did this test and also the rest previously, but I will do it again later. I was assuming No. 4 is referring to the case of the amp when I did the test last time. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks.
  8. So, looking at the circuit diagram, it is a relatively straight forward connection. To eliminate an intermittent wire connection, I am thinking of re-running the wires from the amp to the coil and also to the distributor, and isolating the wires to the rpm relay and rpm limiter. This will greatly simplify the circuit, leaving the amp, distributor and coil. What do you guys think? CircuitDiag.pdf
  9. OK, so I swooped back to the Lucas coil (the one in the car now is a Viper) and the car could not start. I was happy for a while and when I fitted the Viper, the car still could not start. Unfortunately I forgot to bring my spark plug socket home. Tomorrow I will check the spark from the coil as the voltages were correct. Incidentally, can I know how I can crank the engine and check the sparks alone? I sort of read somewhere that I can run a wire from the battery to the starter to remotely crank the h engine? Thanks
  10. hmm... this is interesting maybe if the fail occurs again I will pull the distributor and fit in the Powerspark and see what happens.. thanks
  11. I am also not sure about turning the distributor by hand, but that was how it was tested for contact point distributor. I am not sure if it is the same for inductive type pick up. The Lucas AB14 does have a GM amplifier inside, the only difference is the additional capacitor and Zener diode. nevertheless, I have ordered the amp, rotor cap, rotor arm, inductor pickup, the wire from amp to distributor from SJ. I am not sure if they are original Lucas or not, as many of the original Lucas products are NLA. I hope that whatever they have provided will help to solve the problem if it was not because of the coil. Even if it was the coil, having these spares on hand may help in future if any of them fail... Costly exercise I know, but I am too far away from the parts for a cost effective solution Thanks.
  12. I would like that also, but I will not be able to identify which is the faulty part unless I replace them 1 at a time. I did the measurements to check the voltages and resistance of the ignition parts as per the service manual, but all seemed to be fine then. I will probably need to do that again. Also to try the original Lucas coil that I removed since the resistance seems to be ok. I realized that I do have a spare ignition amplifier, although it is a Cambiare VE520227 instead of a GM unit. can't remember why I bought this. I also have a spare capacitor for the Lucas AB14. So if it happens again I will change these while waiting for the other items to arrive.
  13. I guess the main problem is the intermittent occurrence of the fault. I can only try to change 1 item as and when the fault occurs. Unfortunately, other than the coil and a non-working distributor, I do not have any spares for the other parts. I have since order all the items I can think of for the ignition from SJ, and awaiting their delivery.. Costly, but I guess I do not have the liberty of ordering 1 item at a time..
  14. Yes, I was thinking the same. Will try it later. Tks
  15. yes, the Lucas 45D. I will need to measure the coil then, although I did check the parameters according to the service manual when I first fitted it hmm ... 1.1Ω and 9.2kΩ
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