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Posts posted by hspeck

  1. This morning on the way to work, while I was cruising, the car suddenly sputters and died...

    I managed to cruise a little and parked along the road side and tried to start the engine .. nothing happened.. don't hear the fuel pump, no cranking, dashboard lamps all off ... it is as though there is completely no power..

    So i opened the engine bay and wiggled the contact posts on the battery, all seems well, and I tried to crank and the car started this time round ...

    It behave normally from then on and I managed to drive to my office without any other event

    I used to encounter the engine dying on me when it was at idle in 2019, but during those times I could still crank although it won't start, so i think it might be another problem ... 

    Any idea what may have caused this to happen? 


  2. I wonder what he means to "reek havoc to the spark and ignition system".. I assume he meant when the condensor is faulty.. 

    I may just try to remove it and see if it makes a difference.. But i am more interested to know if it was faulty, and causing ignition issues, will simply removing it solve the problem... 

    This is how the parts looks like, which is similar to ours




  3. I recently acquired a 1985 XJS V12, and was doing some reading about the car and browsing some forums..

    The V12 also uses the Lucas system, and hence have a similar ignition amplifier

    I was reading about how to check the car when it doesn't start (just reading .. in case), and came across this paragraph regarding the condensor..

    "Whilst inside that Amp, look in one corner, and you will see a Condensor, a small round tin can looking item, held in place with a small Phillips screw, and a single wire coming out of one end. Remove that screw, unplug the wire from the Module, throw the condensor away. They were a “noise suppressor” and they regularly leak to earth, and since they are connected to a +ve terminal of the Module, do reek havoc with the spark and Ignition system in general. There will be NO new noises in the car due to this item being gone."

    i had some issue previously with my Esprit's ignition amplifier, and had replaced the amp and the condensor. But never have I come across anything like the above statement ..

    this was from someone who previously worked in jaguar australia, and had only owned jaguars since 1968, so i think he knows what he is talking about..

    so.. anyone knows if the statement holds any truth? and has anyone removed their condensor from the ignition amplifier?


  4. Anyone can advise?

    I have replaced the wiper control module (Mine does not use the relay like the later models), but the slow wiper position still does not work. The fast position works fine.

    And I read that sometimes the park position sensor needs cleaning the contacts so it will park properly again. Can I know if the park position sensor in on the motor under the dash?

    Thank you.

  5. 13 hours ago, snowrx said:

    I have doubts about the JB weld staying bonded to the shaft in such a high shear load . If there's enough metal left, I'd re-do the splines in the metal. You might need a washer under the nut to push the arm lower on the shaft.

    Honestly I am not sure too ..

    maybe i will try to see if i can create the splines on the existing spindle, but not sure if the hole on the arm is too big ..

  6. On 30/07/2021 at 17:35, Chillidoggy said:

    Arguably one of the most time-consuming and awkward jobs I've ever done.

    I reckon so .. especially after googling on how it can be done ..  😅

    On 31/07/2021 at 18:58, DaKa said:

    I appear to have 2 spare wipers (the previous owner must have had the same problem), one is labelled and appears new, but if the other looks better than yours and may work, then PM me and I'll post it along if you're in the UK.



    Thanks for your offer, however I am located in Singapore..  a bit far from where you are .. 

    11 hours ago, snowrx said:

    On another car I have made new splines on the arm/shaft with a sharp triangular file. With the right bit and some care a Dremel tool might work to speed up the job. Given the effort required to replace the shaft and the fact you can't break it any further, it might be worth a try.

    Given the conical surface involved, make sure  the nut/arm does not bottom out on the shaft before a good clamp load is achieved.  

    I have bought JB Weld to make the conical area on the spline into a cylindrical shape, and to also make hole on the arm round again, and then to make new splines on both area.. was thinking how to create the new splines, and your suggestion of using a dremel is point on ..  hopefully I will be able to go about doing it this week

    10 hours ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:

    As a temp solution being knackered already you could drill, tap and grub screw both sides or drill and pin.

    Changing the wiper box is one of the worst jobs unless you remove the dash.

    Good luck 🤞🏼

    Dave :) 

    I was initially thinking to drill a hole through the arm and the spindle, so i could insert a small metal piece to hold them.. but am worried about the windshield.. will try the JB weld method first..



    An idea i initially had was to use a helicoil on the spindle and arm, but the biggest i have was not big enough to go over the spindle, although it was big enough to go into the hole on the arm .. 

    anyway, will see how it goes with the JB weld idea ..thanks for al the suggestions and advise

  7. 9 minutes ago, Sparky said:

    Yes, they're both supposed to be splined.  Common issue.  The proper solution is to replace the entire wiper linkage, which is an 'interesting and rewarding' task.  Temporarily you could use one of the various liquid metal compounds to secure it, but how long it will last is anybody's guess.  Or, as it is conical, create your own grooves in both faces and try to tighten down to an interference fit.

    Ultimately, you'll be spending a significant amount of time in the Lotus position.  This is one job I really don't enjoy.


    That's what i was afraid of.

    i will replace the linkage later down the road then, as I am planning to refabricate the harness under the dash, and will have to remove the dash then...

    will try to figure out how to secure it for the time being...

    i have also bought some rain-x kind of water repellant wax to apply on the windscreen, will need to drive above 25mph when it rains.. :)


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  8. Yesterday my wiper stopped working.

    I turned it on it moved all the way to the end and stopped moving.

    I realised the spindle was moving but not the wiper. So i removed the wiper arm and saw this in the photos attached ..

    I am not sure how it should be, so was wondering if it is busted? It looks to be shaved, as it is shiny and all? Was there supposed to be any grooves so the arm can catch on to?

    I have also attached photos of the inlet at the wiper arm. Was it supposed to have some grooves too?







  9. On 10/04/2016 at 01:15, Vulcan Grey said:

    I replaced the plastic socket part, it was the very first thing to break when I was driving my new Esprit home almost 16 years ago!

    I machined a new ball joint from aluminum.





    Hi, I know it has been a few years, but do you happen to still have the dimensions for the ball joint?

    My broke and i would like to ask my friend to 3D print a set if possible.

    Thank you.

  10. 1 hour ago, Chillidoggy said:

    If you lay the arms side by side, you will see they are shaped differently. The front arm is ‘swept’ back more than the rear arm, which what places the top balljoint further back.

    Hopefully the car will feel much better now, and you now have the ability to increase castor if you feel you need to do so. But remember, any change in castor will change the front toe measurement.

    I didn't realise that, will need to compare them again.

    Have not really got the chance to drive the car properly yet, as it was raining when I picked it up. But with a more proper set up I am sure there wil be much difference.


  11. Just an update on the castor...

    As advised by the folks here, we swopped the top wishbone arms on the passenger side and voila.. we can now adjust the castor to 3° each side.. however, after some discussion with the shop, we decided to follow the original specs for the X180 and has set both sides to about 1°15' instead.

    Thank you all for the kind advises.


  12. 19 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:


    I don't know what wishbone shaft shim washers you have spare, but if do you need any, they are easy to make. It's always worth having some spare before you got to the workshop. You might be lucky and not need any, but equally, you might be unlucky.

    Thanks, i have bought many pieces from SJ as I was not sure how many i needed. I reckon i can use what i have to do 2.5 cars... Hahha

  13. On 08/07/2021 at 16:41, Chillidoggy said:

    If I read my first Hunter printout correctly, with the LHS wishbones incorrectly orientated it gives approximately 3 degrees of castor. So, simply by changing them around on the LHS will give you approximately 3 degrees, 53' castor on that side. Do the wishbone shaft shim-washers first, then the ball joint shim plates for the final castor alignment. I don't think your wishbone shaft chassis tube is in a different position, but that's an unknown until you do the work, and have it checked again.

    Camber - it's just the wishbone plates, but the technician who did my geo did say that any change to castor or camber can potentially affect other settings. Toe setting should be the final job.

    Good luck in finding a sympathetic garage!


    I have informed the workshop what I have learned here and he is willing to try again.

    Will be going to the shop next Tuesday. Hopefully it can be finally settled!

    Thank you!

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